Honda - Odyssey :: 2007 - Brakes Are Soft And Have To Press Hard?
Sep 26, 2011
I have a 2007 Odyssey. Honda already recalled it once for brake issues. It has 44000 miles and we already changed brake pads once. Now again beakes are filling soft and have to press hard. what should I do?
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My 2004 Honda Odyssey shakes when I am pressing on the gas and going 22 to 25 miles per hour and also around 45 miles per hour. It shops once I pass those speeds. could it my the Torque converter?
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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I just purchased a 04 GX 470 the braking system seems to have a lot of travel and are very sponge. I live in MO and it pasted the state inspection. I check fluid and it is good. It has the electronic braking and 4 wheel disk. Is this normal or should I seek Lexis dealer service. I also have a GS430 and the breaks are right there.
Added info: I do not feel any pulsating in the pedal but there is a pulsation in the SUV when it coming to a stop. Feels as if the rotors may need to be turned but the pulsation is not hard it is smooth.
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My son just bought a 97 F150 with the back brakes blocked off. The front brakes had about full pedal when the was on. We changed the front calipers and brake pads. Bled them came back with great brakes (with back brakes blocked).
Then we found out the back calipers was none so we bought all new parts for both back brakes, found some leaks in the rear lines fixed them. Now we bled the brakes with the motor off till no air came out. Solid pedal. Then turned on the motor and the pedal goes down 3/4 of the way now easy.
Stops on snow good no tire sliding. Turn off the motor has solid pedal again.
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Here's my question, my 2010 Honda Van, with 47,000 miles, shimmies when I apply the brakes at 60-65mph. No other time. When I apply the brakes at that speed (very gently, I might add), the van feels like the front end is bouncing around. It doesn't do this at any other speed.
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We have a 2007 Honda Odyssey with 76,000 miles. In December 2012 we had been driving for approximately 3-4 minutes, exiting onto the highway and accelerating to reach 65 miles per hour. When we reached approximately 55-60 MPH and were still accelerating the car spontaneously applied the brakes for approximately 3 seconds, lurching us forward. We stopped accelerating and began to pull over. It again spontaneously braked as we were slowing down. We attempted to drive slowly along the side of the road, to get to the next exit, and it happened again. Once we were finally able to stop in a safe place we turned off the car. We turned the car back on and it did not do it again.
We took the car to the dealer and they only found one code - the steering sensor. They re-calibrated it but were not convinced that was the problem. Sure enough, approximately two months later the same thing happened. We were not going quite as fast and it did not lurch quite as severe. After it did this three times i was at a stop light and pushed the switch to turn the VSA off. It did not occur again. Took it to the dealer and they found no codes. They drove 17 miles and could not duplicate the problem. The weather conditions both times were approximately 30-40 degrees with some snow or wetness on the ground from prior precipitation. The dealer continues to say there is no problem because it shows no code and they can't replicate the problem.
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There is a pretty loud continuous clicking noise lasting about 30 seconds (not necessarily a bad one - just annoying) that comes on every thirty seconds to a minute when I'm driving my Prius. It happens more often now than it did 10,000 miles ago.
It also happens without fail for a few seconds every time I brake. Is this a normal noise? I fear it may be associated with the brake actuator--which the chirping noise is associated with.
If I press firmly on the brakes (which is rare), they chirp. Toyota released a bulletin on it. TSB BR001-07
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I have recently been having problems getting the ignition switch to turn. There seems to be a negative correlation to warmer weather (the warmer the weather, the more likely I will have a negative experience --- and I will get the switch to turn only with some difficulty). When I have such a failure (in which the switch does not turn), I take the key out, wipe it off with my hand, flip it over and shove it back in. Sometimes this works with one try. Sometimes it takes multiple tries. My fear, of course, is that one of these times it will never work, and I will be stranded. I should add that I do have another key, and that I have had the same experience with this key. I don't really want to spend hundreds of dollars on a new ignition switch... and I especially don't if that is really not the problem.
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I recently had a spin out on the ice in my 2001 Honda Oddessy Minivan and had to have the back wheel and front rim replaced. I definitely hit the sidewalk at least once and ended up backward in traffic with the back of my van on the sidewalk. Just after getting the work done I noticed for the first time that my car was having trouble shifting out of park into any other gear when starting and when I had it running but put it in park. I have to either press the brake several times, all the way into the floor to get it to shift out of park or pump it once or twice quickly and when I hear a little click, shift it into gear. Is this a transmission problem? Could it have been caused by my spin out?
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I have a 2007 Ford Fusion (I4). Recently the brake pedal goes extremely soft after the anti-lock brake system engages. It can still brake, but I have to press the pedal almost to touching the floor. It will stay soft a while (at least 20 min, probably longer), but I found that if I pump them hard a few times (like while at a red light) it then returns to normal.
My mechanic can't figure out why it doesn't immediately return to normal after the ABS engages, and he's not sure what to replace to fix it. I don't have the cash right now to just go replacing lots of stuff, hoping it might work.
(He even mentioned the possibility of removing the ABS fuse to prevent the ABS from kicking in and triggering the problem. Though wouldn't that be a step backward, safety-wise? I always heard that ABS is much more effective than pumping brakes manually...)
What's causing this and how to fix it?
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My 2002 Honda Odyssey makes a squealing noise when I make a hard left turn. Could it be related to power steering? Is it an urgent problem? I will take a trip next week (~650 miles each way), and need to know if I should address this first.
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When the weather gets to below freezing and I start my van in the morning the brake pedal will not push down no matter how hard I push. The first time this happened I was moving and had no brakes for seconds. Luckily no one was in front of me. If I warm the van up just a couple of minutes I can feel it release and then the brakes are fine. I've taken it to the Honda dealer twice and also an independent mechanic and no one can find anything wrong with my brakes. I know I can wait until the van warms up but should this situation be happening? I never experience this in my Caravan or any other vehicle.
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I bought a 2011 Santa Fe in September and now that winter has set in up here, I find that when approaching a stop sign and there is black ice, I noticed that when you press on the brakes, it shudders. Almost jumps if you know what I mean. I've never had this experience and scared the crap out of me the first time. Is it normal? The only time it does this is when the wheels lock and slide on the ice. The brakes? I think then shudder. This is the first Hyundai I've ever owned and love it so far.
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I have a honda odyssey 07. I just I just got an alignment done on Tuesday night. I think it drove okay. I sent my car to Costco last night to get 2 new front tires replaced. Took the local road home last night and didn't notice anything wrong. As soon as I hit the freeway, I noticed my car vibrates uncontrollably when I accelerate at the speed btwn 65-70 mph. However, it seems okay when my feet are off the gas pedal. Should I stop driving? I would like to know if my car is safe.
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We have had this problem for about two years now. We finally took the car to the dealership and they, without being able to duplicate it, recommended to change the sliding door roller for the price tag of $375. We did and it did not fix the problem. We took it back few times and the popping noise did not take place while there and left the dealership without a solution. We finally took it back today armed with a video on my iPhone displaying the problem (popping audio included). We left it with them and lo and behold they said that they were now able to duplicate the problem and they are able to fix it by replacing not two but three latches.
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2007 Honda Odyssey with power sliding rear doors. One door (pass side) skips when closing, but only when the van is pointing down hit. Seems to work ok when van is level or pointing uphill. Skipping - the door starts closing, stutters, keeps going, 2-3 times. Usually the door closes, but sometimes it stops and reopens. Is this the motor or some other part/problem?
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Sometimes my van won't start in Park and the brake is depressed. I had the ignition switch replaced but no improvement. I have now found that the car will start in Neutral. Is it possible the neutral-safety switch is faulty or is it likely to be something else?
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My 2007 Honda Odyssey has problems with the A/C blower. When I turn the AC on, the vents have nice cold air coming from the passenger side if the car, but the driver side is warm. It's not until about 20 minutes in, that the drivers side finally cools to the right temperature. Both drivers side and passenger side temperatures are synced together at the same temperature on the dash panel. Why would this happen? Isn't there just one compressor and one blower mechanism??
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My wife was recently driving our 2007 Honda Odyssey on the highway at approximately 60mph when the van suddenly and significantly decelerated. It did this while my wife had her foot on the accelerator and without her activating the brakes. It occured twice in quick succession and then the van returned to normal operation. She did not notice an increase in rpms or hear any loud noises. After this happened, I took the van to the local Honda dealer and they could not find anything wrong with the vehicle. They made an educated guess that it might be the beginning signs of a transmission failure. The van has 72000 miles on it. I am concerned about the safety implications if this were to happen again...
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Last week I drove my 2007 Honda Odyssey with about 100k on a 4 hour trek in the cold, and all of the sudden the heat stopped working. The fans were blowing, but warm air was not coming out. It was Christmas eve and nothing I could really do about it, so let it be. Drove another 10 minutes that night with no heat to my destination, and many hours later still Christmas eve I drove another 15 minutes. Heat didn't work, but car operated just fine.
Christmas day, drove the car for about 20 minutes with no heat, and all of the sudden the temperature gauge skyrockets, and the engine light goes on, the car is clearly overheating (could smell smoke from the engine). Let the car cool for the rest of the day, check it and there is no coolant at all. Had a local mechanic check some other things like the thermostat but found nothing, so refilled the coolant, and drove 4 hours again with no problems--heat works and everything. I was expecting to have to stop all the time to refill the coolant, but didn't have to because it never leaked on the entire trip. I took the car to the Honda dealer and they check it and find no leaks and nothing else wrong with the car, and offer no explanation on how the coolant magically disappeared, only confirming that they cleaned coolant which had leaked/spilled all over. The only possible explanation was that I had some work done on the car a few months ago (new belts) and the mechanic I used didn't flush the coolant properly.
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