Off late my Honda Odyssey steering wheel wobble beyond 60MPH ONLY while going STRAIGHT and foot off of the GAS (which enters eco mode).My mechanic looked at it and said, it is not alignment or any mechanical issue. I looked at the other posts and I could not find any closer to this.
One more thing, I have got the Steering Pump fixed as part of a Recall ( at slow speeds, while turning makes a lot of noise)
I have an '05 Honda Odyssey, that has a wobble in the steering wheel, when I am going more than 60 mph. It has 87K miles on it. Tires seem smooth. Below 40mph it is not there or un-noticable. There is no pulling left or right, it does not seem to get worse if I go from 60 to 80.
View 2 RepliesI recently had new brake pads put on my van. Right before the pad replacement, I noticed a slight thumping sensation under my foot when I would decelerate, but before applying the brakes.
Now, and each day continuing to worsen, the thumping is almost constant, and more prominent when I am slowing down, and when I am turning to the right (less noticeable when I turn left). My steering wheel also starting to shake heavily. Today the engine light came on.
I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with about 65k miles on it. The brakes were replaced 3 weeks ago, and then I took it into a local tire shop for an oil change/inspection. They did not note a single thing. I did ask them how the struts were looking and they said they were fine. This past summer when I had to have a flat repair done at Les Schwabs, they told me I needed new brakes, rotors and struts.
I could not afford that, so my father in law replaced my brake pads with ceramic ones, and the rotors look fine. So when I was told by the most recent shop that my struts were fine, I assumed something else was happening, but have not taken it to my local shop yet. I guess I am looking for a heads up because this could not come at a worse time financially.
My 2005 Honda Civic just made it through a blizzard (outside the whole time). This morning I started driving it, and whenever I got above 45 mph the steering wheel started vibrating / whobbling very badly. My car seat was also vibrating. I poured hot water over the rims when I got home and that did not seem to work. Should I take it to a car wash? Is my car safe to drive?
View 1 RepliesWhen driving straight at slow speed (10-25 miles/hour) on smooth roads, the steering wheel jiggles left and right visibly (probably 1/16-1/8 inch each way). It goes away when turning and seems less at higher speed. This is a 2004 Honda Odyssey on original Michelin Symmetry tires with about 62k miles. Tires have 2/32-4/32 tread wear left, no manufacturer's worn markers yet or any visible damages or deformation. The vehicle has had regular maintenance at dealers, most recently 60k service done in December 2010. Trying to determine if this requires immediate attention and half a day at the dealer or a tire shop...
View 7 RepliesI've got a 2005 Honda Odyssey and recently it started to "wobble" at relatively high speeds. I think I've isolated the scenario in which it wobbles the most. If I travel between 65-70 mph and then take my foot off the accelerator to coast, the car wobbles when it hits 60mph. It will continue to wobble until the speed goes down to around 55mph. By accelerating, I can get the wobbling to stop. This is the only time I've noticed this occurring. I'm kind of strapped for cash, so I hesitate bringing it in the dealer.
View 4 RepliesMy 2010 Honda Odyssey EXL recently began making a whining noise that seems worse when turning the steering wheel. When in the shop for routine maintenance a few weeks ago they noted a leaking power steering suction hose although at the time it was not making any noise. Is this a likely cause? Unsure what it was I tried spraying belt dressing on the serpentine belt and it seemed to work. There was no whining for a couple days. Now it's back.
View 2 RepliesI took my parents 2006 Honda Odyssey with less than 50k miles to the local Sears to have the tires balanced since the steering wheel was vibrating at highway speeds (65 -75mph). The car sounded fine when we dropped it off, however, when we picked up the car I noticed that starting from about 5 mph on up, there was a loud noise that initially sounded like something was stuck to the contact patch of the tire. The frequency and decibel level of the noise would increase in sync with the car speed up to about 60 - 65 mph. Then, either the noise would fade or the wind noise would drown it out. I'm not sure which. We took it back to Sears to show them.
Checked tires and nothing was on the contact patch of the tires. They claim that it was a coincidence that the wheels started making noises immediately after they finished working on it. They said that it is probably bad wheel hub bearings. Is it possible that this was just a coincidence? Why would the bearing not make any noises before the wheels were balanced? Is it possible that balancing the tires messed up the drive train (and it not be the mechanics fault)? Or did they simply mess up/sabotage the wheel and are not fessing up to it?
Our 2006 Honda Odyssey had a power steering pump replaced in the spring. It makes a loud whining noise especially when turning. Our mechanic said this is normal!! It looks like air is in the line as the fluid looks foamy. Is there a special way to bleed the lines?
View 10 RepliesI'm having the same issue that I had on my previous Mkv car. Around 55-80mph the steering wheel will wobble back and forth at about a quarter of an inch very quickly. It's an identical shake to my last Mkv. I had the wheels balanced and checked for bends and the car aligned. Didn't work. Went to various shops spent too much on balancing. One shop showed me that one of my tires was slightly out of round. So I bought 4 new tires and had them road forced shop said everything was great. Hopped on the freeway and the same wobble was still there. Car is at 52k miles and I've been battling this problem for about 5k miles now.
I've had the entire car checked. One tech told me that the axels could have gone bad so it is going in under warranty to get new axels on Tuesday, then going back in for an alignment. My last Mkv had the same issue around the same mileage and I spent so much on trying to figure it out I eventually got sick of it and traded it in on this GTI. My girl friend just bought an 09 Jetta and it seems to be having early signs of the same vibration. I'm starting to think its an issue with the generation. My mk3 with 200k miles drives smoother than this thing. I love the car but me driving on the freeway so often really kills the enjoyment.
I had new tyres put on my 2002 Accent 1.5 CDX a few weeks ago, they are 175/70 R 13 and i have Genuine Hyundai Alloy wheels. Over the past few days, Ive noticed a bad wobble that i can feel through the steering wheel, but seems to come from the rear of the car, although it could come from the front, as the car seems to wander around on the road, but going along at 50 mph and taking my hand off the wheel for a second or two it doesn't pull either way, you can just see the steering wheel visible moving from left to right and back again!!!!!
I changed the back wheels to the front and vice versa, and the problem went away, for 24 hours and came back again!!!! This wobble is getting worse, I've had the wheels balanced, rims seem ok, suspension checked, etc and all fine. The only thing I am not sure about is worn track rod ends, and I am not sure what to look for this wobble is at its worse between 30 and 55 mph, but it can be felt on any road (from starting off) and at any speed.
I bought this 2005 Hyundai Elantra with 68 000 kilometers, and it had some nasty steering wheel wobble at about 80km/h and what felt like right rear brake issues. We got 4 awesome tires put on and balanced and that took care of most of the wobble/shaking, and took care of most of the wobble in the right rear wheel. The other day we pulled the rear wheels to do the brakes (pads and rotors), but the rotors we got didn't come with the holes for the retaining screws but one of the guys at auto value said it would be fine, and if not, then take them back.
We put those rotors on and then bolted the wheels back on and i didn't even get down my driveway since the rotor in the right rear wheel felt like it was fumbling around in there. jacked the car up and there was play in both rear rotors but much more so in the right rear one. the rims that came with the car are 15" honda rims with a 4 bolt pattern so could that be the issue that these rims don't bolt up properly over the hubs? i thought that 4 bolt rims for honda, kia, hyundai, and others had the same bolt pattern? am i missing something here? or should i just find new rotors with the retaining holes?
2002 sc430 73k miles.
I have a slight steering wobble (not really shaking/vibration) at higher speeds and only when I turn the wheel to the left or right a little (maybe a 1/2 inch). If I am driving straight down the highway it is smooth at any speed 40-90mph no issues. If I move the wheel to the left or right I feel the the wobble in the wheel. If I go back and forth a little, constantly, with the wheel it continuously wobbles.
I had recently addressed some other vibration issues by installing new LCA #2, continental DWS tires, and had the front end aligned (front -.3L and -.5R for camber, Rear -1L and -1R camber, front and rear toe set to -.07, if I recall). I couldn't really remember if I felt this wobble before because the tires and LCA's needed to be done badly. I am not sure if I should replace the struts either since ride feels good.
My steering feels darn good and responsive at low speeds and does not wobble when turning the wheel slightly. I have purchased new oem steering rack bushings but have not installed them yet (purchased as a preventive maintenance part when i had some free time, before I discovered this issue).
I have read a few threads about alignment of the steering rack causing issues if it is not perfectly centered. Not sure if that would cause anything like this. Love driving the car but the wobble is rather annoying when i turn the wheel a little to change lanes at 75mph.
I got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
Ok so we all know it's usually warped rotors or possibly a caliber problem. But let's say u have new of both. And still I'm getting a wobble, not only when I brake at higher speeds, but when I'm on certain roads. Only certain roads. Say about 20% of other roads while driving I get a slight wobble. Not too bad, but a very annoying wobble. I bought this CTS at 35k and now has 45k on it. And again I bought this car for my long commute and a smooth drive. Which I'm not getting. I can't take it anymore! I've got to figure this out. Getting a wobble in the steering while on super smooth roads. And I know it's the car because I have a Chevy Cavalier and a Dodge truck in the family that don't wobble on the same roads.
View 16 RepliesI have a 1993 f150. Problem is that the steering wheel can wobble back and forth about a half inch or so. I took the wheel off and it looks like there is a lock ring holding everything in place. I just wondered if there was a solution to this to fix it
View 1 RepliesMy truck has developed a wobble in the steering wheel. I don't mean when you are driving down the road, but the steering wheel wobbles around. It wobbles in any position that the Till shaft is set to. How to repair.
View 10 RepliesMy wife's having trouble with her '02 Explorer 4x4 V8 XLT.
Today I experienced a violent steering wheel shudder that I would describe as the old "death wobble" you hear about on solid axle trucks, Early Broncos, Jeeps, etc.
At 55mph, in a slight right hand turn, a little bit of a bump in the road triggered it. I held on to it as the steering wheel was rotating left and right a few degrees (maybe ~10deg) and it wouldn't stop until I slowed down to around 35mph.
I crawled underneath and didn't see anything obviously bad (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc).
Then I noticed when turning the steering wheel (with the engine running, but parked) I could feel it shuddering slightly as I turned it.
The PS pump makes quite a bit of noise so I wonder if its on the way out.
Of late my steering column has been getting stuck in park and I have to fool with it and manipulate it between moving the steering wheel and pressing on the brake until the column releases and then I can move it into drive.
View 3 RepliesLess than 30 days ago, replaced the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Front Arm Bushings, and Power Steering High Pressure Hose on my 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Today, my wife noticed the engine was noisier than usual, then suddenly became stranded on the roadside when the power steering went out; at the same time a "Check Charging System" error displayed on the panel. The van was within walking distance of home. I got it home and checked the engine, finding the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir to be nearly empty (far lower than the minimum line).
My questions - am I right to think Honda blew it? Does the above scenario sound like they simply forgot to refill the fluid after their repair? Or other? If negligence, what sort of damage may have resulted that I should be on the lookout for? Finally, why is the "Check Charging System" light coming on as a result of this?
My 2006 Honda Odyssey lost the a/c last week. No cold air. After troubleshooting myself, I took it to the shop I use and they came up with it being the compressor clutch. But you can just replace the clutch, so a new compressor. My question is... What's a good price for this repair? In this vehicle the compressor replacement requires the alternator, etc... To come out first before you can even get to the compressor. So, I'm not really excited enough about it to do it myself. Which I think could, except for the discharging the refrigerant.
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