Honda - Odyssey :: 2006 Lost Power On A Long Uphill - Bad Cylinder?
Nov 6, 2016
My Odyssey lost power on a long uphill about a week ago. I took it to my mechanic and he said that one of the cylinders is bad. No pressure. He told me that I need a new engine.My questions, can this engine be repaired?If not, what should I do about getting a new engine. What would be a good option on used engines?I live in San Francisco and I have been driving it slowly like that, but I try to avoid uphills as much as possible.
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1997 Odyssey lost power while driving 2 times. Once last Oct. going 45mph, rainy; once in Feb., 30mph, sunny, cold. Both times the car started right up. No other problems. After 2nd time, got it to the mechanic right away & he could not find anything except that a little oil had leaked into the distributor. He isn't convinced it would cause the problem. It's at about 186,000 miles, and it's a great car.
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I have a 2008 Honda Odyssey. Lately, we've been bothered by a sweet smell, particularly when coming to a stop at the bottom of a hill or acceleration uphill. The smell is most noticeable from the two front, center AC vents. The dealer swears it's not a hose or heater core issue. He also checked the cabin air filter. AC "on" and recirc "on" seem to exacerbate the problem.
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Our 2006 Honda Odyssey had a power steering pump replaced in the spring. It makes a loud whining noise especially when turning. Our mechanic said this is normal!! It looks like air is in the line as the fluid looks foamy. Is there a special way to bleed the lines?
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Honda Odyssey 2005 – 176000 miles. Cylinder 4th Misfire – check engine lightHonda has about 176000 miles. When cold – before warming up – it acts like nothing is wrong – as it gets warmer – to the middle of the temperature gauge – it misfires.And runs rough. Evaluation: Honda Dealership thinks it is a cracked Valve or needs adjustment – they have replaced a spark plug and swapped coils. Not for sure.They think if that is not the case then there could be additional problems.Question: Why does it act normal when cold ? How can we confirm if it is the valve and not cracked head?
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Going up a hill, my engine started clacking and I lost acceleration power. (yes, I was in overdrive - which I now know I shouldn't have been). I immediately pulled off the road and into a gas station. Upon stopping, my oil pressure gague dropped to zero and my engine temp maxxed out. The temp was fine until I stopped. I let the engine cool off for an hour.
After listening to it for a few seconds, I was told that I had a problem they couldn't fix. We put a compression fix oil additive in it to see if that would work. It did raise the oil pressure when cold and when running with the RPMs up, but after running for a few minutes, the pressure would drop to zero on idle. At that point, they suggested that I shouldn't drive it anymore. I then rented a box truck and an auto trailer and trailed my truck the rest of the way.
I'm now in Fort Collins, Colorado and have a dilemma. I had a local mechanic look at the truck and he also agrees that I have a failed/failing rod bearing. (back of the engine near the firewall)
The question is to repair or abandon the vehicle. I'm not a mechanic and can't do the repair myself. It has 158K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Unless I also damaged something else, the rest of the truck is in good shape. Is rebuilding the engine possible or even worth it?
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My 2006 Honda Odyssey lost the a/c last week. No cold air. After troubleshooting myself, I took it to the shop I use and they came up with it being the compressor clutch. But you can just replace the clutch, so a new compressor. My question is... What's a good price for this repair? In this vehicle the compressor replacement requires the alternator, etc... To come out first before you can even get to the compressor. So, I'm not really excited enough about it to do it myself. Which I think could, except for the discharging the refrigerant.
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I have a 2006 Odyssey, 120,000 miles that has really been trouble free. Last year, while on vacation, the alternator went out, and it was replaced. Since that time, maybe a coincidence, I have had episodes where when I turn the key to start up, there is no response. The dash lights come on, but the engine does not even act like it wants to start. I turn the key a few more times, then the engine starts without a hesitation. This went on a few times before I took it in to the dealer. Of course, it did not have a problem starting there, so they checked the battery, and the battery cables. For the past year this has gone on very sporadically. It may go a month between episodes, or it may happen 3-4 times in a week, or even a day. Every time though, it will eventually start. Over the past year we have eventually replaced the battery, and one time we thought the problem was solved when the starter went out. However, the problem continues.
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2006 Honda Odyssey with about 120,000 miles on it. Check engine light and VSA light came on at the same time. Car vibrates dramatically and has little to no acceleration. Put off the engine and restarted. Car worked fine after that. Has happened twice in the last 2 weeks. What this might be + what do I need to do to fix it?
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I took my parents 2006 Honda Odyssey with less than 50k miles to the local Sears to have the tires balanced since the steering wheel was vibrating at highway speeds (65 -75mph). The car sounded fine when we dropped it off, however, when we picked up the car I noticed that starting from about 5 mph on up, there was a loud noise that initially sounded like something was stuck to the contact patch of the tire. The frequency and decibel level of the noise would increase in sync with the car speed up to about 60 - 65 mph. Then, either the noise would fade or the wind noise would drown it out. I'm not sure which. We took it back to Sears to show them.
Checked tires and nothing was on the contact patch of the tires. They claim that it was a coincidence that the wheels started making noises immediately after they finished working on it. They said that it is probably bad wheel hub bearings. Is it possible that this was just a coincidence? Why would the bearing not make any noises before the wheels were balanced? Is it possible that balancing the tires messed up the drive train (and it not be the mechanics fault)? Or did they simply mess up/sabotage the wheel and are not fessing up to it?
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Off late my Honda Odyssey steering wheel wobble beyond 60MPH ONLY while going STRAIGHT and foot off of the GAS (which enters eco mode).My mechanic looked at it and said, it is not alignment or any mechanical issue. I looked at the other posts and I could not find any closer to this.
One more thing, I have got the Steering Pump fixed as part of a Recall ( at slow speeds, while turning makes a lot of noise)
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with a little less than 50,000 miles on it. I love my car!! It is so comfortable and so durable. But.. lately if I have been driving at a high rate of speed, such as on the highway,for an extended period of time (at least 20 minutes) when I slow down or come to a stop it sounds like a quiet fire engine siren. I can't think of any other way to describe. Of course, I took it to my Honda service center and they couldn't replicate the sound. I even took the service person for a ride, but we didn't go far enough for it to happen. They said they gave it a thorough once over, but it is still happening. I don't want to take it back to them until I have something to guide them in the right direction. I love my Honda and I really want it to last me a very long time.
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The Honda dealer tells me that both of the van's CV joint boots are torn/leaking. Their recommended solution is to replace both front CV axles at a cost of about $500 per axle.
Is replacing the axle the standard repair when the boot is torn, or is the dealer trying to "over-fix" the problem at a greater cost to me? Can't they just replace the boots (at a lower cost, hopefully)?
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I have a 2006 Odyssey with 86,000 miles. Almost every day the horn completely freezes for five seconds or so, occasionally under fast-moving traffic conditions (and often several times a day). The problem is that the condition is erratic and only acts up when the car is on the road for a while. Because of these preconditions, the dealership has been unable to diagnose or fix the problem, though I admit they did make a fair amount of effort to do so.
Over the course of this year, I believe I have brought the car in four times to the dealership with this complaint, only to be told that they can't find the problem. Last week, in desperation, I took the car to an independent mechanic, who told me he doesn't have the proper equipment to diagnose the problem and that I needed to bring it to a Honda dealership!
I really feel my car is unsafe as is but don't know what to do now.
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Last night, our '06 Honda Odyssey's red "charging system indicator" light came on. I quickly looked it up in the book, as sudden red lights on our car scare me, and it said that "The battery is not being charged. Go to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance." Well, that was useful. It's Sunday.We turned off all the extra electric (a/c, lights, etc)on the way home. On the way home (less than 5 miles) several other indicator lights flashed on and off periodically.
The ABS, VSA and brake system indicator lights. We also noted that the headlights seemed dimmer than normal. When we got home, the front end smelled hot, but no smoke or anything. This morning, I looked to make sure all connections were tight, and they were. We had turned the master light switch off last night, but the door lights (on the bottom edge came on when I opened the door. Other than that, we have not tried cranking it, as I'm afraid that it will totally drain the battery.
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with 40K miles. The valves have been making a chattering noise for awhile now. I have tried different brands of gas (highest grade) - no luck. I took the car in to the dealer while it was still under warranty they could not find anything wrong. I took it again lately and they said not to worry. It seems like some sensor is not functioning properly but I could be wrong.
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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I've got a99 F2 50 super duty with a 2000 2001 motor. I got the truck in the beginning of last winter so this is my first summer with it.
When I first got the truck there are injector issues with the truck. Since I fix the issues there has been little problems out of the truck however it's still suffered misfires when Cold but once up to operating temperature it was fine. Yesterday I had to go with a friend before leaving for the trip I checked the oil it was full and appeared normal the trip was about 150 miles. I came home park the truck after everything was done. This morning I came out started the truck everything acted as it should... truck fired right up everything was great went and dropped off my trailer at the yard come back got fuel when I come back out from paying for the fuel the truck took about 30 seconds to fire up I checked my gauges and torque pro and everything seemed normal. So on my way I went.
I drove about 10 miles on the highway to the place I had to be when I got done doing my business I came back out to start my truck and it did the same thing this time however it took longer to start I managed to drive about a mile down the road when I noticed my old pressure gauge flickering and my Oil pressure light on I immediately shut it down and coasted into O'Reilly's parking lot I check the oil in the truck and it was empty according to the stick I added two whole gallon.... With it filled back up down the road I went. So currently the truck is still suffering from a long hard starts it takes 30 to 45 seconds before it all actually fire up once it fires up everything appears to be fine however the truck is slowly smoking a bluish black color... It's never done this before however I've never had this truck in the middle of summer when it's real hot out I don't think this is normal.
The truck doesn't appear to be down on any power actually it, acts as if it might've picked up of some power it is felt real peppy today compared to other days. Also I might note that about a week or two ago I started smelling diesel like either really rich diesel or raw diesel wasn't too bad but I just got whiffs of it for now and then. Now there is a burn oil smell present from the exhaust. Like I was saying earlier when I first got the truck I had to service the injector O-rings... I was told that the miss firing when cold was caused by the Poppitz sticking. The misfire hasn't been present since it got a little warm outside like I was saying it was only when the vehicle is cold.... Just thought I would mention the injector issue not sure if it's relative or not..... My thoughts are it's back to an injector issue or O-rings or possibly did I wipe the motor when it ran out of oil. I am not aware of where the oil went as there is been no leaks or drips.
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I recently had new brake pads put on my van. Right before the pad replacement, I noticed a slight thumping sensation under my foot when I would decelerate, but before applying the brakes.
Now, and each day continuing to worsen, the thumping is almost constant, and more prominent when I am slowing down, and when I am turning to the right (less noticeable when I turn left). My steering wheel also starting to shake heavily. Today the engine light came on.
I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with about 65k miles on it. The brakes were replaced 3 weeks ago, and then I took it into a local tire shop for an oil change/inspection. They did not note a single thing. I did ask them how the struts were looking and they said they were fine. This past summer when I had to have a flat repair done at Les Schwabs, they told me I needed new brakes, rotors and struts.
I could not afford that, so my father in law replaced my brake pads with ceramic ones, and the rotors look fine. So when I was told by the most recent shop that my struts were fine, I assumed something else was happening, but have not taken it to my local shop yet. I guess I am looking for a heads up because this could not come at a worse time financially.
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I had the Honda recommended software upgrade done on the car in July 2010 and have taken it back twice to two different Honda dealers more than once. The gas mileage has dropped from 44 to 40 consistently for the same route and driving conditions on my daily commute. Worst still the car's power has suffered as the battery does not kick in as often so it struggles going up a hill. The battery is in charge mode more quickly at roughly 50% life so it is not available to boost the power, prior it would not stsrt recharging until much lower like 20% left. In fact I have had to turn around on hills that it could manuever before as it would not go up hill after the upgrade. I have spoken to several other drivers of the same model that say they have the same problem. The software upgrade was to lengthen the life of the battery pack not kill the power and MPG of the car. Any recommendtaions on how to fix since Honda is of no assistance?
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About 3 days ago there was a complete power loss to the Driver Side Window and Sliding Door. Checked both fuse panels and everything looked good. Is there a relay that controls the entire driver side? There's no whining or noise at all when you push the buttons. Just complete loss of power. If you press the button for the passenger window on the driver door, everything works. So its not that the driver side door as a whole has problems.
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