Honda - Odyssey :: 2005 - At Cold Temp Brake Won't Work How Hard Pressed
Feb 13, 2011
When the weather gets to below freezing and I start my van in the morning the brake pedal will not push down no matter how hard I push. The first time this happened I was moving and had no brakes for seconds. Luckily no one was in front of me. If I warm the van up just a couple of minutes I can feel it release and then the brakes are fine. I've taken it to the Honda dealer twice and also an independent mechanic and no one can find anything wrong with my brakes. I know I can wait until the van warms up but should this situation be happening? I never experience this in my Caravan or any other vehicle.
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I have a Honda civic 2005 LX, 170,000 miles. I love this car as I went through my tough time with it. I don't want to give it up until it dies if possible. Only issue of this care is AC does not work when temperature is hot. It works really good when it's cold/rain. When I turn on the car and AC in the morning, the compressor works fine for 5-10 minutes and it turns off when the engine is normal temp.(below mid line). I went to one local mechanic and I was told Freon level is good.
They spend about an hour to figure out what's going on and they told me that I need to change my entire compressor, I felt they just can't figure out what exactly causes it and want to just scare me with big $, to make me give it up. (because compressor works fine when it's cold. I think something with temperature) I recently changed my Thermostat, filled up coolant, and changed crutch-AC relay fuse but no change in the AC symptoms. I will need AC for sure when I move into Arizona next summer!
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I have a 2003 Odyssey EX - everything was working fine up up to last year. When summer was almost at an end, the A/C suddenly failed. I pressed the 'Auto' button, I heard the compressor kick in and felt the slight kick/drop in rpm like normal, but after about 3-5 seconds the compressor disengaged and the engine went back to unhindered idle speed. The A/C console was still set at Auto, so i turned it off then back on, but this time there was no compressor kick in at all. At first I thought a fuse blew, but I checked them and they were all fine. I continued on my way and decided I would just turn on the fan/blower, but it didn't work either. It didn't matter if I set the console for auto or manual, heat or cold, when I turned the fan knob to any speed it would not turn on - with the following exception: If I turned it all the way to max and waited about 10 seconds or more, then it wold blow at full speed. Same would happen if I put it on auto and turned the temperature knob to lowest or highest temperature - after 10 seconds it would turn on the fan at max speed (since I figure consoles are programmed to go to max fan at temperature extremes to get to either one faster...)Also of note: When I turned off the vehicle, and turned it back on at a later time, the compressor again wold kick in for 5 seconds then turn off......and by the way the rear fan control works just fine throughout all this.
Since the summer was over, I didn't need the A/C and figure I would fix before the next summer. Every once in the while I would test again, and a couple of months later the A/C decided to work just fine for a whole day, but then it went back to the odd behavior
So now I'm thinking the environment console is busted and I need to replace it, except other things start to behave erratically:First was the break release for the transmission lever. I wold press down on the break but could not hear the 'click' that releases the transmission lever to shift out of park. That first time I just couldn't get it to work, so I used the emergency release on the top of the steering column, but after that I could simply pump the break or release and pump repeatedly until the click happened, usually took 3 tries. The funny thing is that this becomes consistent for about a week, and then months will pass with no problems shifting out of park, only to happen again for a week...
On some rare occasions, the interior lights don't work they way they are supposed to: They'll stay on when with all doors closed even when set to turn on only with open doors, or won't turn on at all with the same setting even with a door open (rarer still, will turn on with one door, but not another). I can always just set them to remain off all the time...
Same kind of issues with the rear windows and cruise control, most times they'll work fine, others they don't.
The only thing I really need to work in this Texas heat is the A/C, but before I go get an expensive A/C console replacement, or have technicians accumulate hours and hours of diagnosis to figure out the problem, I wanted to know if perhaps these are all related as an electrical issue with a buss-bar or a junction box - or a short from stripped wires in the harness, loose terminals, etc.
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The heater fan runs fine. Cold air comes out of all the vents (defroster, floor, dash). There is plenty of coolant in the system, and my mechanic advises the engine is running at the correct temperature. The heater hoses at the firewall are warm/hot as if coolant is flowing through. Flushed the heater core (but that didn't fix the problem). My mechanic now wants to drill some holes in the duct work to see if there is a mouse nest or some other obstruction.
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I have recently been having problems getting the ignition switch to turn. There seems to be a negative correlation to warmer weather (the warmer the weather, the more likely I will have a negative experience --- and I will get the switch to turn only with some difficulty). When I have such a failure (in which the switch does not turn), I take the key out, wipe it off with my hand, flip it over and shove it back in. Sometimes this works with one try. Sometimes it takes multiple tries. My fear, of course, is that one of these times it will never work, and I will be stranded. I should add that I do have another key, and that I have had the same experience with this key. I don't really want to spend hundreds of dollars on a new ignition switch... and I especially don't if that is really not the problem.
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I have a 2007 Odyssey. Honda already recalled it once for brake issues. It has 44000 miles and we already changed brake pads once. Now again beakes are filling soft and have to press hard. what should I do?
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2000 Honda Odyssey, Gear indicator light on ther dash works when I start the van, however, when I turn on the headlights, the gear indicator and the gauge illumination lights do not work, when I switch the headlights off the gear indicator light works again. I checked the fuses and replaced them just to check.
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My 2006 Honda Odyssey lost the a/c last week. No cold air. After troubleshooting myself, I took it to the shop I use and they came up with it being the compressor clutch. But you can just replace the clutch, so a new compressor. My question is... What's a good price for this repair? In this vehicle the compressor replacement requires the alternator, etc... To come out first before you can even get to the compressor. So, I'm not really excited enough about it to do it myself. Which I think could, except for the discharging the refrigerant.
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My 2002 Honda Odyssey makes a squealing noise when I make a hard left turn. Could it be related to power steering? Is it an urgent problem? I will take a trip next week (~650 miles each way), and need to know if I should address this first.
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Noticed when I press brake pedal brake lights does not work even the center one. Checked all fused in the car and the small ones under the hood. All fine. I have a long trip tomorrow. Where else i can look. Everything seems working. Reverse light is fine. Is that related to latest brake light switch recall? Cant think of anything else.
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I have been having problems with a loud whining noise when I steer in cold weather (approx 35 degrees F) and only after the car has warmed up. Now, before everyone tells me about the Honda Service bulletin addressing this problem, I will tell you I had the Power Steering reservoir replaced at 65K miles, per the service bulletin. However, the problem came BACK after another 35K on the van. The dealership then replaced the inlet pipe O-ring on the power steering pump which ended up NOT fixing the problem. So I still have a fairly new power steering reservoir, a new O-ring AND the loud whine. Am I doomed to replace this every 35K miles or is there some other problem that is buried deeper than the PS reservoir? (And the loud whine you hear really is coming from the van....but soon I might be joining it.)
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Mid- july I had the compressor rebuilt when the A/C suddenly started blowing warm air one week prior to a 1200 mile road trip.
Two weeks later the car wouldn't start. The battery (still under warranty) checked out as "good" was charged up and started the car fine. It needed an oil change before we headed home and the lube shop said that the coolant was low. I mentioned that I thought this was strange since I just had the compressor fixed and the guy and the quick lube just shrugged and I paid to top off the coolant. The next morning we set out towards home- 1200 more miles.
About 100 miles into the trip I noticed the A/C didn't seem to be blowing very cold. It was cool. Not cold. It was better after we stopped the car for lunch and that lasted for about 5 miles. When we stopped, our car was leaking copious amounts of fluids from both the engine and the passenger rear side of the car. By about 300 miles into the trip, the rear AC wasn't blowing at all. By 500 miles in NOTHING WAS BLOWING. Still leaking tons of fluids. Seemingly water.
We drove through the night with complaints of heat from the kids. Parked the car in the driveway. I moved the car into the garage... and I turned on the A/c to see if it was now working. The engine started to scream and smoke was rising from the hood. This didn't stop when I turned off the A/C.
The next morning, the battery was dead again. I had it towed to our mechanic. Other than the battery he could find nothing wrong. No noises. no smoke. A/C blowing AND it's blowing cold. Possible leak from the compressor (which I told him was under warranty from the guys who put it in and asked him not to touch it). They charged the battery.
I drove it to the A/C guys (A/C is blowing fine). They admit the A/C isn't as cool as one might hope. They drive it. Seems fine. Possible Coolant leak, but it's raining and they can't find the leak. They keep the car overnight. The Battery is dead the next morning. They replace the battery with a loaner. I'm desperate for my car. I pick it up and agree to bring it back in a few days to have them check the coolant levels and the battery.
NOW... Car starts, but it seems sluggish. The car revs like a formula 1 race car from 1st gear through 4th (maybe). The A/C is blowing cold (What the?? Blowing and cold?). Still leaking a lot of fluids (condensation?). Why? AND the check engine light has never gone on. What is wrong with my car???
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The passenger-side automatic door on my 2005 odyssey will not close 75% of the time. It doesn't matter if I use the button on the dash, the door handle, or the button on the fob. The door will start to close until it has about 6 inches left to go, and then the door will make a loud clunking sound and beep as it opens up again. I've tried turning the automatic switch off on the dashboard and shutting it manually, and it won't close that way either. I can't budge it. The only way I've been able to get it to close when it's like this is by turning the car back on, putting it into drive, and then closing using the button on the dashboard. It will still start to open up, but I can get it to close by pushing the button again, although it jerks and closes very reluctantly.
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About a week or 2 ago my car wouldn't start. So i jump started it and i thought that was all there was gonna be with that. I ran to a couple of stores and every time after each store it started just fine. I go to get up the next morning and start my car...does not wanna start. so i put a new battery in it. the van started right up after i put the new battery in. I ran to my moms and some other places and after everyone of those places it started up just fine.
I accidentally left the interior lights on the other night and did need a jump yesterday but i went a few places again yesterday and shut my car off and never needed a jump all day every time I went to restart my car.....and then i go to get in it this morning and it does not want to start....i have taken the positive cable of the battery off while its running and it doesn't stop and someone told me that if it doesn't stop running its not the alternator..is this true? what might be wrong my van?!?!
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I have an '05 Honda Odyssey, that has a wobble in the steering wheel, when I am going more than 60 mph. It has 87K miles on it. Tires seem smooth. Below 40mph it is not there or un-noticable. There is no pulling left or right, it does not seem to get worse if I go from 60 to 80.
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I have a '05 Honda odyssey that has recently started showing drop in rpms at approx 30MPH. At that speed, I see that RPM suddenly drops from 2500 to 2000, pressing on gas really hard, triggers downshifting of gears and everything comes back to normal. I suspect some issues with how gears are being shifted...
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I've got a 2005 Honda Odyssey and recently it started to "wobble" at relatively high speeds. I think I've isolated the scenario in which it wobbles the most. If I travel between 65-70 mph and then take my foot off the accelerator to coast, the car wobbles when it hits 60mph. It will continue to wobble until the speed goes down to around 55mph. By accelerating, I can get the wobbling to stop. This is the only time I've noticed this occurring. I'm kind of strapped for cash, so I hesitate bringing it in the dealer.
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2002 Honda Odyssey ... While driving back from work I noticed that the Battery, brake and all door light lights are on and it will not go away. I have tried restarting it and it didn't worked. BTW this happened about two weeks ago also but that time it went away after I restarted the van. I read somewhere that this could be because of corrosion/lose battery connection so I cleaned the battery terminals with baking soda but that didn't worked either. Also I didn't noticed any problems with driving it seems to be running fine.
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Sometimes my van won't start in Park and the brake is depressed. I had the ignition switch replaced but no improvement. I have now found that the car will start in Neutral. Is it possible the neutral-safety switch is faulty or is it likely to be something else?
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Twice in the past month my Honda Odyssey after driving for over an hour the RPMS go sky high and car only goes up to 5 miles an hour. The car can not go into reverse and steering is difficult. The air conditioning was on during both of these events.Upon having it towed to the Honda dealer both times, they could not find anything wrong with the car, it runs fine.They ran diagnostics both times and found nothing. The check engine light has never come on.The AC runs hot air until I put the temp as low as possible. Then I can adjust temperature. I have had all of the work done on the car at the same Honda dealership since purchase in 2005.
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I have a 2005 honda odyssey van and the oxygen sensor light keeps coming on.
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