Honda - Odyssey :: 2005 - After Driving For Over An Hour RPMS Go Sky High
Apr 7, 2014
Twice in the past month my Honda Odyssey after driving for over an hour the RPMS go sky high and car only goes up to 5 miles an hour. The car can not go into reverse and steering is difficult. The air conditioning was on during both of these events.Upon having it towed to the Honda dealer both times, they could not find anything wrong with the car, it runs fine.They ran diagnostics both times and found nothing. The check engine light has never come on.The AC runs hot air until I put the temp as low as possible. Then I can adjust temperature. I have had all of the work done on the car at the same Honda dealership since purchase in 2005.
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I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with about 190k miles on it. About a year ago (175k), we had our Transmission replaced with a re-manufactured transmission from the Honda Dealer. Now almost a year later, we were driving home on the freeway (about 4 hrs of highway driving) when we smelled and saw smoke coming from our hood. No lights or indicators came on. We also started losing power and the RPMs were high.
We pulled over in a gas station and popped the hood. A guy who said he was a mechanic took a look and thought it was the radiator host leak...suggested we add water and limp the rest of the way home. We did this and had no issues for the remaining 40 minutes of driving. The next day we brought it to our normal mechanic (not a Honda dealer) and he said it was transmission fluid ...thought that the transmission fluid that was splattered all over our engine/hood/wheels.
When we took it to the honda dealer (since we were still under warranty for the Honda transmission), they looked at it, cleaned it up and ran tests. They are saying that other than being low 2 qts of Trans fluid, they don't see any leaks/problems with the transmission, even after test driving it. They are wondering if the transmission cap was not tight or left off, causing the fluid to overheat, etc (I'm sure it wasn't left off as we have been driving it for months since our last check up without issue).
They say they can't replace it under warranty unless they can confirm some issue in their diagnostic tests. How can we have 2 qts of transm fluid splatter all over our engine and there not be a problem they can diagnose? Did they not give it enough time (e.g 4 hr long distance drive) to heat up enough to replicate the problem? The question now is...is it safe to keep driving the van (after doing a transm flush) or are we just asking for trouble until the next episode? How can I convince the dealer that there is a problem and have the transmission replaced under warranty?
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I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
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I have a '05 Honda odyssey that has recently started showing drop in rpms at approx 30MPH. At that speed, I see that RPM suddenly drops from 2500 to 2000, pressing on gas really hard, triggers downshifting of gears and everything comes back to normal. I suspect some issues with how gears are being shifted...
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2003 Honda Odyssey EXL with 236,000 miles on it was jerking, very scary, and the rpms were revving up while driving. We asked around and had it checked and was told it was the transmission. We waited 9 months, not wanting to put the money into it and let it sit, not driving it at all. Then we decided to fix it last week.
We thought we were replacing the transmission, but, after working on it, the place we took it - very reputable - only did the solenoid, saying that fixed the problem. When we took it home an hour away, it was fine - much, much better than when we left it. But, the next day my husband felt a small jerk. We took it back that night and left it with them for a couple more days. They couldn't make the problem recur, so they sent it home with us. We were getting ready to go on a major road trip, so we had the oil changed, and all other stuff for regular maintenance seemed good. Had all fluids checked and new tires on and new battery. Also had recall done on ignition switch. Left on major cross-country trip. Drove about 5 hours and it started again. Just a little - one time. No place was open and we were on deadline, so kept driving cross country.
Eventually the check engine light came on (can't remember if it was before or after started jerking), but that has been on for a couple years and we keep having it checked and they tell us it is not worth fixing - hard to figure out the emissions problem. Could be several things. One was the solenoid, another the gas cap. We had both those replaced. Problem has gotten worse as we have crossed the U.S. on Memorial Day weekend - so no opportunity to have mechanic look at it or get codes due to everything closed. Checked transmission and oil fluid levels, and they are good.
If we accelerate VERY slowly, we are okay. But, the TCS light comes on if we accelerate too quickly sometimes, and it will stay on until we stop and turn the car off. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all, but the check engine light is always on now. In the last 200 miles, we now have occasionally the D (drive) light flash - if the TCS light is on and we are getting jerking, and the rpm's stay up in the high 2's or close to 3 and the van doesn't seem to shift into the higher gear. If it flashes, it won't quit or shift into the higher gear until we stop for maybe 20-30 minutes. Then, the light will stop flashing and the rpms are okay. As long as we accelerate really slowly, really slowly, it won't flash again. One time, on an off-ramp, we jerked when we were decelerating, but that was only once in about 1500 miles - or ever as far as I can remember. The jerk on acceleration has actually been going on for a couple years, but it was always just momentary and only occasionally. Now it is a problem.
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I've got a 2005 Honda Odyssey and recently it started to "wobble" at relatively high speeds. I think I've isolated the scenario in which it wobbles the most. If I travel between 65-70 mph and then take my foot off the accelerator to coast, the car wobbles when it hits 60mph. It will continue to wobble until the speed goes down to around 55mph. By accelerating, I can get the wobbling to stop. This is the only time I've noticed this occurring. I'm kind of strapped for cash, so I hesitate bringing it in the dealer.
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Vehicle has 53000 miles. Check engine light all of sudden came on and the car reduced to 40ish miles per hour and would not exceed it. when parked the vehicle will only go to 3500RPM and then the needle will drop back down. No visible signs of fluids anywhere or any smoke. No sure where to start to see what the issue is.
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I noticed through careful investigation that my 03 GTI 1.8T (180,000 KM's or 111,850 miles) will grind 3rd when in these conditions:
1. When the car has been driving for more then half an hour and everything is hot
2. When the car is over 2800 RPM's while hot (ie. getting on a highway)
Now I know lot's of people blame syncro's and yes I could see that my car has had 8 previous owners so I can't say they all shifted perfect. But what I do know is that when I downshift from either 4th or Neutral it will never grind even when I don't Rev Match or "Blip" the throttle. So it can't be syncro's in my opinion.
So what I've done to the car to rule out some problems were:
- Change the gear oil from what ever it was before to Royal Purple 75W-90 (NO luck.)
- Then I added a short shifter and adjusted my cables properly (still No luck)
- Finally I noticed my shifter was sloppy and one of my bushings were torn so I bought 42 DD's metal bushings and the shifter did stiffen up a lot, however!!! (No luck)
I know it's not my driving technique because I watch my foot depress the clutch fully and then I gently push it into third. I also know I'm shifting correctly because I can double clutch and normally shift through every other gear properly without any grinds or clunks. Just the devilish 3rd gear.
I would like to hear the solution. I'm going to change the oil one more time to Redline MT-90 and see how that goes, but if that doesn't work I might just tear apart or get a new tranny.
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My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
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We currently have a 2003 Honda odyssey with about 119K miles. About once a month the transmission does not want to change between 2nd and 3rd gear causing it to rev very high. The only resolution is take your foot off the gas until its back to an idle state. Now I have read that these transmissions suck and have a bunch of problems. We are driving long this summer and we need a new trans. Last year when we drove to NC the car started to buck and rev really high when on cruise control for awhile. not sure if its connected but it was not fun.
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I own a 1999 Honda Odyssey with 130,000 miles. Over the past 6 months I've spent $1600 on routine repairs (brakes, alignment, battery, struts, shocks, etc). Now it's stalling out while driving. The maintenance light flashes followed by a "green key" light, then it stalls out when I'm driving under 30 mph. It does start right up afterwards. The Honda people recommend replacing a worn "ignition lock cylinder" for $700. They ran it for 130 miles and physically banged it on the underside of the steering column to make the car stall out. Should I invest this $700 on this car? Do I need to replace the ignition lock cylinder? I'd prefer to keep the car for another 2-3 years, or do I junk it now before repairs start piling up?
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The passenger-side automatic door on my 2005 odyssey will not close 75% of the time. It doesn't matter if I use the button on the dash, the door handle, or the button on the fob. The door will start to close until it has about 6 inches left to go, and then the door will make a loud clunking sound and beep as it opens up again. I've tried turning the automatic switch off on the dashboard and shutting it manually, and it won't close that way either. I can't budge it. The only way I've been able to get it to close when it's like this is by turning the car back on, putting it into drive, and then closing using the button on the dashboard. It will still start to open up, but I can get it to close by pushing the button again, although it jerks and closes very reluctantly.
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About a week or 2 ago my car wouldn't start. So i jump started it and i thought that was all there was gonna be with that. I ran to a couple of stores and every time after each store it started just fine. I go to get up the next morning and start my car...does not wanna start. so i put a new battery in it. the van started right up after i put the new battery in. I ran to my moms and some other places and after everyone of those places it started up just fine.
I accidentally left the interior lights on the other night and did need a jump yesterday but i went a few places again yesterday and shut my car off and never needed a jump all day every time I went to restart my car.....and then i go to get in it this morning and it does not want to start....i have taken the positive cable of the battery off while its running and it doesn't stop and someone told me that if it doesn't stop running its not the alternator..is this true? what might be wrong my van?!?!
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I have an '05 Honda Odyssey, that has a wobble in the steering wheel, when I am going more than 60 mph. It has 87K miles on it. Tires seem smooth. Below 40mph it is not there or un-noticable. There is no pulling left or right, it does not seem to get worse if I go from 60 to 80.
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1997 Odyssey lost power while driving 2 times. Once last Oct. going 45mph, rainy; once in Feb., 30mph, sunny, cold. Both times the car started right up. No other problems. After 2nd time, got it to the mechanic right away & he could not find anything except that a little oil had leaked into the distributor. He isn't convinced it would cause the problem. It's at about 186,000 miles, and it's a great car.
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I have a 2005 honda odyssey van and the oxygen sensor light keeps coming on.
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My odyssey stops running when I am driving on the road. The instrument panel goes off and the engine shuts down. There are 166,000 miles on it. I took it to the Honda dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
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My Odyssey has 110,000 miles but since about 50,000 miles (I can't exactly remember) it makes a loud wining sound from the engine when I slow down, gets louder when I turn a corner, like going into a parking spot. The problem is it comes and goes and I can't seem to pin point what kind of weather or other conditions make it happen.
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This is hard to believe but...the engine was making a freaky clicking noise. It started to getting a little louder and then the car suddenly lost acceleration on us. We took it in and the mechanic said that a spark plug broke off inside the cylinder and chewed things up badly. The threads in the block are bored out also. He states he can "band aid" it with some kit, but then recommends selling in and buying new. My question - Should I go that route or is engine replacement a better option? 90K miles, 6 years old. Not sure what engine replacement would cost...
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I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey. A few day ago I noticed a weird smell, sort of like burning chemicals, only after driving the 25 miles to work and later that day the same. Drove it over the weekend around town with no problems. Just to be safe, took it to my trusted local mechanic on Monday...he could find no problems except black walnut debris from critters. Drove it to work Tuesday, no problems there. On way home at stop sign, hit the gas to go forward and car wouldn't go forward. Luckily I was going downhill and could pull over.
Tow truck driver was able to drive it up flatbed and brought it to shop. Mechanic said transmission fluid was dark and flush/changed it three times. It is driving absolutely fine with no problems(to the surprise of my mechanic) though mechanic said transmission life may be limited. I am now afraid to drive my car as I commute to work and have three children. It has 106,000 miles and always has been maintained on schedule. The transmission fluid was flushed last year for the first time at around 95,000 miles as recommended by mechanic.
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I have a very well maintained 2005 honda odyssey with 150,000 miles on it. It typically gets 22 m.p.g. It started using an unusual amount of gas - was getting 12 m.p.g. Took it to the mechanic and turned out the gas pump was cracked. We replaced the gas pump and the gas line, and it was getting 14 m.p.g. Took it to another mechanic, and he said that the spark plugs were the problem as they were not official Honda spark plugs (we replaced them at around 110,000 miles). So we installed the official Honda spark plugs, but still no good. I have visited several mechanics and no one seems to know.
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