My 2004 Honda Odyssey shakes when I am pressing on the gas and going 22 to 25 miles per hour and also around 45 miles per hour. It shops once I pass those speeds. could it my the Torque converter?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Odyssey. Honda already recalled it once for brake issues. It has 44000 miles and we already changed brake pads once. Now again beakes are filling soft and have to press hard. what should I do?
View 3 Replies2006 Odyssey chk eng and vsa lights coming on during driving dramatic shaking. Oil level is fine jus changed plugs had the vtec sensor replaced by Honda per code still having issues have around 168000 miles on it, bought used.... What else to look for fix or take it back to Honda cuz the vtec code is on again, after being cleared.
View 2 RepliesI recently had new brake pads put on my van. Right before the pad replacement, I noticed a slight thumping sensation under my foot when I would decelerate, but before applying the brakes.
Now, and each day continuing to worsen, the thumping is almost constant, and more prominent when I am slowing down, and when I am turning to the right (less noticeable when I turn left). My steering wheel also starting to shake heavily. Today the engine light came on.
I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with about 65k miles on it. The brakes were replaced 3 weeks ago, and then I took it into a local tire shop for an oil change/inspection. They did not note a single thing. I did ask them how the struts were looking and they said they were fine. This past summer when I had to have a flat repair done at Les Schwabs, they told me I needed new brakes, rotors and struts.
I could not afford that, so my father in law replaced my brake pads with ceramic ones, and the rotors look fine. So when I was told by the most recent shop that my struts were fine, I assumed something else was happening, but have not taken it to my local shop yet. I guess I am looking for a heads up because this could not come at a worse time financially.
My 07 prius with 190k started shaking violently when going down hill if I press the gas or brake at all is goes a way suddenly, this happens only around the high 40's to low 50 mph range and once at 75, this happened just after my tires where balanced and rotated brought it back they re balanced them and said they balanced out perfectly and the problem still protested. I drive on dirt roads all the time and i hit a big pot hole earlier last spring but the issue just started after the balance a week ago.
View 13 RepliesOur 2004 Honda Odyssey is making a squealing sound in reverse (with or without foot on brake... but not every time for either). For a week, it made the squealing sound going forward, but it has now stopped that. We did recently have our tires rotated at Jiffy Lube... could a bad rotation job be making the squeal. Or is it something I can safely ignore..
View 3 RepliesI have recently been having problems getting the ignition switch to turn. There seems to be a negative correlation to warmer weather (the warmer the weather, the more likely I will have a negative experience --- and I will get the switch to turn only with some difficulty). When I have such a failure (in which the switch does not turn), I take the key out, wipe it off with my hand, flip it over and shove it back in. Sometimes this works with one try. Sometimes it takes multiple tries. My fear, of course, is that one of these times it will never work, and I will be stranded. I should add that I do have another key, and that I have had the same experience with this key. I don't really want to spend hundreds of dollars on a new ignition switch... and I especially don't if that is really not the problem.
View 2 RepliesBoth low beams of my 2004 Odyssey headlights stopped working today. Both high beams are still working. From what I read and observe, the same bulbs serve both high and low beams on 2004 Odyssey. In other words, there are no separate low- and high-beam bulbs. What the problem might be? And is it fairly easy to fix myself?
View 13 RepliesRecently had my 105K maintenance done which was water pump and timing belt plus whatever other misc belts go with that. Had it done at an indepentdent shop. Since the job was done we have noticed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with RPM or speed that we drive (literally sounds like a jet engine whine). I took it back to the independent shop and he suggested it was our transmission. I have noticed no difficulty when changing gears nor any engine warning lights. I contacted Honda and our vehicle was part of a transmission recall in 05 that was done already. Other sources have suggested that the whine could be the belt being too tight or the water pump. Shop supposedly used all honda parts. Should I take it back to him again and suggest that the belt is too tight? Take it to the dealer and see what they think?
View 11 RepliesThe coolant is leaking from the gasket that is on the front of the engine. My repair guy suggested that I also do the timing belt at the same time. Do I have any other options? The Honda has 217,000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesMy 2004 Odyssey climate control is blowing hot air even when I set the controls to max cold. Not just outside type hot air but the heater is on to max hot air. Pushing the a/c off button does nothing. When I turn the a/c system on I can hear the motor's rpm drop and I see the fan turn on. I think the system is still still getting cold because when I stop I can see condensation dripping under the vehicle. How to fix this or to at least get it to blow cold all the time?
View 3 RepliesThe last couple winter's we've experienced a significant "clunking" sound when placing the van from Park to Reverse. It doesn't do this by moving the gear shift from Park to Drive or Neutral. This only happens when the engine is cold and has been sitting for several hours. Outside temps below 35-40 degrees. Don't have the problem in Spring, Summer, or Fall. We have 177K miles. Transmission fluid/filter has been changed regularly by my mechanic according to Honda's instructions.
No problems with the transmission or engine since we've owned the vehicle, and we've been the only owners. No leaking found. Honda thought the problem could be a rear engine mount. Just had another local mechanic (I'm 65 miles from the nearest Honda dealer) whom we trust replace the Rear Transmission Mount. Still have the clunking noise, and you can really feel it too. It's been a great van for us, and we'd like to keep it another 50K, if possible.
Just had our '04 Odyssey with 162K miles to the Honda dealer to have some maintenance work done. Had cabin filter replaced for first time. Out of the service area, I started the engine fine, turned on heat/a-c, adjusting fan speed to high. There's a pronounced hummer noise coming from under the dash near the blower. It's a constant hum, not something associated with some debris that may have been dislodged or floated down into the blower area. The "pitch" of the hum increases/decreases with the blower fan speed. Service personnel came out, to include the manager, and they exposed the area where the filter was replaced; nothing out of place or loose.
Told me I could schedule another appointment to have them clean out the area inside where the filter and blower are located. Told them that service should be provided as a part of the filter replacement if it could be a concern. Although I'm not a car-savvy person, I'm thinking the problem is due to replacing the cabin filter: new filter, increased air flow (and there is a substantial increase of airflow out of the dash ducts) to the fan blower -- which as been operated with a dirty filter for probably a lot of miles and it has "worn" just right, that the increase in airflow is causing the hum. Fan blower spinning faster causing the hum?
About 3 days ago there was a complete power loss to the Driver Side Window and Sliding Door. Checked both fuse panels and everything looked good. Is there a relay that controls the entire driver side? There's no whining or noise at all when you push the buttons. Just complete loss of power. If you press the button for the passenger window on the driver door, everything works. So its not that the driver side door as a whole has problems.
View 4 RepliesLast week I took my 2004 Honda Odyssey in to Firestone for a rear brake job and they ended up selling me an oil change, two new tires, alignment, an alternator drive belt, and two front engine mounts as well. When I picked up the vehicle late Friday afternoon, I noticed the power steering was making a whining noise and the steering seemed a little stiff. I took it back to Firestone Saturday morning, and they looked under the hood and said my power steering fluid was low, so they topped it off. That fixed the whining, but the steering still had a bit of a kink in it. They said it might be an air bubble in the line that would work itself out. Monday morning on my way to work, the whining was back and the steering very stiff and getting noticibly worse by the minute, so I took it directly back to Firestone.
It turns out the rack and pinion is leaking, and Firestone denies that it could have happened while they had the vehicle. The manager I spoke to said "all we did was replace a couple of belts -- didn't even get near the rack and pinion." Well, that's not all they did, but if anything they did could have caused the current issue. I know there were no suspension or power steering issues before I took it in, and after I picked it up suddenly it's leaking fluid like crazy. What can I do or say to press my case?
Anyway, so a little over a year ago I had to have my head gasket replaced and when I picked it up they told me I had a cracked motor mount. After having just spent an exorbitant amount and being poor, I decided to wait to fix that. It seemed to run fine so I didn't worry about it too much. Sometime last year I started hearing this rattling noise when I pushed the gas. It would start and then die off. But it didn't do it all the time.
Fast forward to the past month or so and I've started to get vibration and shaking, usually between 60-70 mph. Thinking it was my tires, I took it in to have them balanced. It rode smooth after that for a few days and came back. The rattling noise has also become more prominent and is pretty constant now. I took it back to the shop and they told me it was more than likely the motor mount. So I went ahead and had that fixed today.
When I picked it up it seemed fine. The noise seemed gone and it rode smooth. But as I drove home and got on the interstate everything came back and sounds/feels just as bad as before. What gives???
2001 f250 7.3L, 289,000 miles, changed the IPR and ICP, noticed the EBP tube was in two pieces. Would this cause the rough idle and shaking? IT started running rough and would die after a mile or two. Would have to wait 30 minutes before it would start again. That is when a buddy told me to change the IPR and ICP the ICP plug was covered in oil as well as the top of the ICP. So I changed the wiring plug as well. I originally cleaned and changed O-rings on IPR but then it wouldn't start, bought a new IPR and started but runs rough. I just started it with EBP tube removed and sensor unplugged. Idling rough when I press accelerator and RPM go above 2K it levels off pouring black smoke everywhere.
View 3 RepliesI believe the condenser has leaked out. IS it safe to replace or do I need to take it in to flush out any residual freon? Just want to be safe.
View 19 RepliesJust got a new battery for my 2002 Honda Odyssey on Friday. I did not drive the car Saturday or Sunday, Monday morning it faintly sounded like it would start but then would start clicking. After several attempts it started. I drove about 3 miles to drop my kids off at school and it started right up when I left the school. Should I take it back to where I got my battery or will it be fine if I don't let it sit for days without starting?
View 8 RepliesI own a 1999 Honda Odyssey with 130,000 miles. Over the past 6 months I've spent $1600 on routine repairs (brakes, alignment, battery, struts, shocks, etc). Now it's stalling out while driving. The maintenance light flashes followed by a "green key" light, then it stalls out when I'm driving under 30 mph. It does start right up afterwards. The Honda people recommend replacing a worn "ignition lock cylinder" for $700. They ran it for 130 miles and physically banged it on the underside of the steering column to make the car stall out. Should I invest this $700 on this car? Do I need to replace the ignition lock cylinder? I'd prefer to keep the car for another 2-3 years, or do I junk it now before repairs start piling up?
View 2 RepliesThe heater fan runs fine. Cold air comes out of all the vents (defroster, floor, dash). There is plenty of coolant in the system, and my mechanic advises the engine is running at the correct temperature. The heater hoses at the firewall are warm/hot as if coolant is flowing through. Flushed the heater core (but that didn't fix the problem). My mechanic now wants to drill some holes in the duct work to see if there is a mouse nest or some other obstruction.
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