Honda - Odyssey :: 2002 Has Intermittent Vibrating Shudder
Sep 9, 2013
Our 2002 Honda Odyssey (158k miles) occasionally has a mild but definite shuddering/shake when I am going up a small grade. For example, I might be at a stop sign. Upon accelerating up a small grade (0 - 25 mph) the vehicle experiences a shuddering of some sort - hard to explain. It is not anything in the steering wheel - it is the vehicle itself. Not being a mechanic or anything, I want to say it almost feels as if the drive system is out of alignment and is vibrating until the moving parts align again. A broken engine mount??? It is front wheel drive - so no drive shaft and u-joints. CV Joints bad?
We've asked several mechanics - one a Honda certified technician - and nothing suspicious was found.
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey that is making an intermitent buzzing noise that appears to be coming from the dashboard. It sounds like an old speedometer going bad but this car should have a computerized speedometer. It appears to be weather related as it does not happen in the winter. When it happens, the buzzing is reduced if you slow down the car a bit. It can vary in intensity and can get very loud. I took the car to the dealer and they want to take the dashboard off....
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I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey with 71,000 miles on it. It was vibrating while breaking at about 60 mph so we went to a Sears Auto shop. They did a disc rotor refinishing and installed new brake hardware. The vibration continued and I went to Sears again and he assessed the problem and he said that rear brake rotors had to be installed. He asked me to bring it in tomorrow as he did not have the part. What is wrong with this picture.
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My wife drives a 2010 Honda Odyssey. Yesterday she told me that last week it started making occasional sounds like metal scraping. I heard it today and it sounds like a chain dragging, or something going on in the wheel. The sound lasts for less than a minute, and is then gone. The sound changes pitch/frequency with speed. It only happens with the car in motion, and only after it's been driving for awhile. It sounds like it's coming from one of the left side wheels.
There are only 36,000 miles on the car. We live in Northern California where the climate is mild and there's never salt on the road. I'm wondering if this model has problems with wheel bearings, or something else.
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Having issues with 2009 Honda Odyssey. I'll describe, but I can't be certain these things are related.This morning, battery was dead for no apparent reason. No lights were left on, etc. Battery is brand new.After jump-starting, car ran fine for a few moments, then starting making loud intermittent "buzz" sound from engine/radiator area, down inside maybe on the left side of the radiator. There was also smoke rising from the engine.
I don't know much about cars, unfortunately, but cursory research suggests it might have something to do with the AC system.
I have attached a MOV which captures the sound it was making.
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey. I recently had the air conditioning compressor replaced. Now, when the A/C is on and I accelerate from a stop; the engine "whines" through the first 3 gears or so. Also, when the A/C starts up initially from a cold start there is an audible groan and light drop in RPMs. Also, if I turn the A/C off while accelerating the noise immediately disappears.
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2002 Honda Odyssey ... While driving back from work I noticed that the Battery, brake and all door light lights are on and it will not go away. I have tried restarting it and it didn't worked. BTW this happened about two weeks ago also but that time it went away after I restarted the van. I read somewhere that this could be because of corrosion/lose battery connection so I cleaned the battery terminals with baking soda but that didn't worked either. Also I didn't noticed any problems with driving it seems to be running fine.
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey with 260,000 miles on it. It started randomly overheating this hot summer we have been having. We change the thermostat and flushed the coolant/radiator and still overheats. I do not see any leaking on the garage floor but am loosing coolant and need to put more in about every 14 days. I do a lot of highway driving. What should I look at next?
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I think I made a bad decision. Almost a year ago, I purchased my used Odyssey. I cannot remember if the timing belt had been changed. My check engine light came on, and the mechanic I took it to indicated it was the seal on the gas cap. He proceeded to tell me that I have an oil leak coming from the oil pump and that I should replace it and while I'm in there, I should replace the timing belt. There were a myriad of other things wrong with it, including broken engine mounts (which I can get fixed elsewhere from the man I purchased the car from) and some other things he said I can spread out and are basic maintenance, but I said to go forward with the oil pump and timing belt.
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I drive a 2002 Honda Civic. I was driving home from work one day, traveling about 40mph when the car shuddered, the check engine light came on, and I decelerated to 20mph or so. It then wouldn't go any faster than 20-25mph without more shuddering and revving up past 5000rpm. I am able to drive the last 1-2 miles home at low speed without problems. I am able to drive the 15-20 miles to work in the mornings without issue, even on the highway at 70mph. It has been hot in the afternoons (95-100+) and I wonder if the heat has something to do with it. Also, I have an in-dash DVD unit and the screen turns dim/an odd tint from time to time. It doesn't seem to coincide with the other problems. A repair shop said they think it might be a grounding issue.
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I have a power window issue with my 2002 civic with about 120K miles on it. this has happened intermittently over the last 2-3 years but now it's not fixing itself.
The other day, I had opened all the windows while driving. When I got to my destination and wanted to put them all back up, the driver's side rear window did not go up. Neither the driver's seat/master switch nor the rear door switch did anything. No noise from the window at all when activating either switch. I checked the power window relay fuse under the dash and it is fine. If I try to pull the window up, that doesn't work either.
In the past when this has happened, I typically would just pray for dry weather and wait a few days, and it would eventually work again on its own. I seem to recall that shutting the rear or driver's door a few times might have worked a little too. I have a vague memory from a few years ago that it may have also happened (the same exact problem) with the passenger side rear window, but i can't be 100% in my recollection of that.
I don't drive the car a lot, but i'd like to not have a sheet of plastic taped around the window, it looks pretty junky. I don't really need the rear window to be fully functional (though that would be great) - i would be content to get it into the up position and then never open it again.
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I have a 99 Suburban with very high miles. Going on 306K mostly highway miles. This is our baby and the best vehicle I've ever owned. This is a solid vehicle that I think we can get more miles out of.
The problem is that it will intermittently surge or shudder between 40-60mph during acceleration. It's hard to pinpoint because it doesn't happen all the time. It seems to be worse if the vehicle is low on gas or the engine is cold but I'm not certain about that. It's not hard enough to call a buck, jerk, or sputter though. Maybe I've over-analyzing but basically it will shift to the correct gear and then back down then back up etc., and back and forth for very brief seconds. Then levels out after 60mph and there are no other problems. If the gas is low or engine is cold is does this in lower gears as well but usually only around 4th gear. I hope this description makes sense.
Here's where I'm confused. The transmission was rebuilt 2 weeks ago specifically the torque converter and rear planetaries. The day we got it back we performed a tune-up so all new plugs/wires/cap/rotor. The fuel filter was replaced about 8 months ago and the fuel pump 2 years ago. All regular maintenance has been performed on time since we bought it 4 years ago. Yesterday the Service Engine Soon light came on and it only showed one code (OBD II), PO161, so we replaced the 02 Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 2).
However the problem persists and there are no other codes providing any direction. I've tried to search the internet for drivers with the same issue but the fixes vary too much and seem uncertain.
Other known issues for diagnostics: four wheel drive hasn't worked for years (haven't needed it in our flatlands) and ac compressor went out last spring.
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1997 Civic HX, runs great, no motor issue....more like driveline.....Recently picked up a vibration, it just got much worse. My thought is there's a bad CV joint, but I can't find much play.....Was vibrating at 60mph, let of the gas & it goes away.....now, vibrates from the word go as if somethings out of round, if I coast, I now get a thunk/thunk/thunk until I ease back on the gas, then it vibrates. Braking.....out of gear...thunk/thunk/thunk hardcore, braking while in gear I get nothing but less vibes.....Steering wheel does not shake, 4 brand new tires, brakes seem fine.......CV JOINT?? or Something internal?
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I believe the condenser has leaked out. IS it safe to replace or do I need to take it in to flush out any residual freon? Just want to be safe.
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Just got a new battery for my 2002 Honda Odyssey on Friday. I did not drive the car Saturday or Sunday, Monday morning it faintly sounded like it would start but then would start clicking. After several attempts it started. I drove about 3 miles to drop my kids off at school and it started right up when I left the school. Should I take it back to where I got my battery or will it be fine if I don't let it sit for days without starting?
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I own a 1999 Honda Odyssey with 130,000 miles. Over the past 6 months I've spent $1600 on routine repairs (brakes, alignment, battery, struts, shocks, etc). Now it's stalling out while driving. The maintenance light flashes followed by a "green key" light, then it stalls out when I'm driving under 30 mph. It does start right up afterwards. The Honda people recommend replacing a worn "ignition lock cylinder" for $700. They ran it for 130 miles and physically banged it on the underside of the steering column to make the car stall out. Should I invest this $700 on this car? Do I need to replace the ignition lock cylinder? I'd prefer to keep the car for another 2-3 years, or do I junk it now before repairs start piling up?
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The heater fan runs fine. Cold air comes out of all the vents (defroster, floor, dash). There is plenty of coolant in the system, and my mechanic advises the engine is running at the correct temperature. The heater hoses at the firewall are warm/hot as if coolant is flowing through. Flushed the heater core (but that didn't fix the problem). My mechanic now wants to drill some holes in the duct work to see if there is a mouse nest or some other obstruction.
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2000 Honda Odyssey - CEL came on a couple of days ago and I took it to get the code read. The reader says it can't link up with the ecu. Tried the same reader on another car and it worked fine. The transmission was rebuilt last year (about 9 mo. ago) and I'm concerned that something was not hooked up right during the rebuild. Is this a possibility for the non-linking of the reader to the ecu? Also, last year, before the tranny rebuild, I had a reader hooked up to the ecu and it worked fine.
As a side note, the TCS light comes on sometimes after starting the car and won't turn off. If I restart the car it will turn off and work properly. I imagine this is related, but not sure since I can't read the code for the CEL.
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My sister unknowingly grabbed her Honda Odyssey car key and used it to start and drive her Honda Civic. She didn’t realize what she’d done until she had trouble taking the key out of the ignition after driving the Civic. Now we’re wondering about these car keys and security.
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When I had my oil changed, I was told that a "Main Bolt" needed to be replaced because it was starting to leak oil. He said that there was a sealant of some type on it that was wearing away and that even though I see no evidence of an oil leak, I would soon. He said that one of the axles would have to be removed to replace it.
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My 2004 Honda Odyssey shakes when I am pressing on the gas and going 22 to 25 miles per hour and also around 45 miles per hour. It shops once I pass those speeds. could it my the Torque converter?
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