Honda - Odyssey :: 2001 Turns Over Fine / Catch Then Die Multiple Times
Feb 26, 2011
I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey that doesn't start sometimes - mostly when it's really cold but not exclusively. It doesn't seem to matter if the gas tank is full or empty. It turns over fine and will catch and the die multiple times. There is sometimes a large "clunk" while it is turning over and all the lights will go off and then it will start turning over again. It can take a minute to 15 minutes to start when it isn't starting but about half the time, it start right up. This is only in the morning, once it's going for the day, it works. 126,000 miles, timing belt changed a couple of years ago.
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I have a 01 Honda Odyssey and I am getting no heat in the front of the van. In the back I can get heat just fine. Also the front blows on all setting, just cool air. I am wondering, what it might be and what I can check.
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey. The other day while driving, and today after just starting up, the car makes a whining noise, multiple lights on the dash illuminate (charge, all door open indicators, brake, and brake light bulb indicator) and when I open the hood I can smell a slight burning smell. I thought maybe something was frozen, but the belt is not unusually warm, and all the pulleys I can see are turning.
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Vehicle inconsistently/occasionally taking multiple turns of key to start. Then, multiple turns of key with pressing of gas pedal, which has now progress to stalling (three times within one month) immediately after difficulty with starting and when stopped at a light.
Took vehicle to Honda dealership... dealership could not duplicate the problem so replaced...1) coil assembly, ignition2) head assembly, rotor3) cap assembly4) spark plugs
Two days later the problem reoccurred-- two turns to start-up and when placed the car in reverse to back out of my parking space and in the process of moving, the car stalled, but started on the first turn of the key and I drove straight to the dealership.
They now believe it may be the main fuel relay or the fuel pressure regular.
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2003 F150 Super Crew 5.4
When I turn off the ignition, the drivers door lock unlocks or pushes the arm through the door for up to 30-60 seconds over and over again. I would say like 10 times and it is annoying as hell.
Is the only part in the door that controls this the actuator or is there something else that can be doing this?
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2001 explorer, SOHC. Sometimes just lately (5 times in the past three weeks) the engine just does not start. It turns over just fine but makes no attempt to actually start. When it does this it will after a few attempts start right up like nothing was ever wrong. It doesn't seem to matter whether it is cold or warm. Intermittent problems are very hard to diagnose .....
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2001 Honda Odyssey 200k miles
recent (1-month-old) changes: a-new alternator-new a/c generator
What is happening:1) starting the car all instrumental dash lights stayed on and only very slowly cleared. This happened all the time I started the car.2) All red lights (brake, battery, and all doors open) start turning on together quite often.3) And I see a dropping in 'power' voltage. Like my headlights are getting darker. The headlights are also buring out quite often,
I went toan AAA mechanic and they checked the car and found nothing. And he said he did nothing.Since then all instrument dash lights turn off at normal speed.But all the red lights still light regularly. But less than before.This (the red lights lighting) happens more often if A/C in on. Less if the only fan is on. And even less while driving - usually when slowing down.
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I have a well-maintained 2001 Honda Odyssey EX with about 162k miles. It's had all of it's recommended maintenance at the recommended intervals. And until lately all of that maintenance was done at the dealership. Of note, the transmission was replaced by the dealer at around 100k miles. Other than fit-and-finish issues it runs great.
Over the past few months, I've had issues with it starting. The key will turn, everything "lights-up" as it should, I hear the engine crank normally, but it just won't start. I do this 2, 3, 4, 5 times over a few minutes and finally, it starts. When it does start it runs fine. Sometimes this happens several times in a single day. Sometimes it goes for 1-2 weeks without it happening at all. I've tried to make a note of when this occurs to see if there is a pattern. Unfortunately, I've not come across anything obvious. The engine can be cold or hot. Rainy weather, dry weather. (I opened the hood and sprayed it down with the hose, it started no problem at all.) I've paid attention for the "immobilizer" indicators and I don't see that either. No check engine light. No codes.
A friend suggested that when this occurs to sniff for uncombusted fuel in the exhaust -- I did not smell anything. I suppose this suggests that it's a fuel issue and not a spark issue. I've taken it to my trustworthy local mechanic, and they a) couldn't recreate the problem, and b) couldn't find anything wrong. For good measure, they removed and cleaned the throttle body, but that didn't work.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey and no air blows out of the rear AC ceiling vents, however the AC does work and blows cold air out of the front dash vents. I set the control (in the front) to have AC in the rear, but no air in the back. I do hear a click when I move the front controls from low to medium to high (blue dots). What might be the issue?
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For over 3 years, my 2001 Honda Odyssey transmission has had a whine, gradually increasing in volume. The pitch increases with speed, not RPMs because it continues to increase pitch when it shifts and reduces RPMs. There are no performance issues, and there are no error codes when hooked to the computer. The transmission was put in at 93,000, 80,000 miles ago. Had fluid flushed and replaced with no effect.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 140,000 miles. In the past year we've had major repairs to the car including rebuilding the transmission, fixing things on the steering column, replacing the catalytic converter, waterpump and timing belt, and a complete brake job. We thought we would be good to go for another 3 years on this van. But it continues to have this sporadic problem a few times a week: I will put the car into drive and press the accelerator, but the engine doesn't seem to get any fuel and it feels like the car may die or stall. If I keep my foot on the accelerator, the car will kick in and go after a few seconds.
A couple of times, I pushed down a little bit harder on the accelerator, but it sort of surged or jumped a bit and then got going just fine. My mechanic says this problem has to happen while he's driving it and has it hooked up to a machine or something in order to diagnose it and he is going to charge me more diagnostic fees to hunt for the problem. He says it could be many things. Is there something simple I can check myself in order to fix this before paying more fees? Would a different type of gas, or additives or a simple change of spark plugs be the first thing to try? We're tired of putting money into this van, but we feel we are invested in it now, and want to hang in there.
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I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 90000 miles. Lat last year around Oct/Nov time frame, check engine light came on. I took my vehicle to a local Auto Zone store and they scanned the code and told me it was P0420 - bad catalytic converter.
I replaced the cat converter with an after market model, however after 3/4 months (after driving 2000 to 3000 miles), check engine light came on with the same code. The mechanic changed the cat converter and put a new (after market model). Again after 3/4 months (2000 to 3000 miles) check engine light came on again. And this time the mechanic replaced the cat converter and also oxygen sensor. Now after 4 months or so the check engine light is on the vehicle again.
The mechanic is now saying that the problem is not with the cat converter and he is saying there is a lot of abnormal deposit on the vehicle. When he scanned again he found another issue that read something like "high voltage" and this time the guy thought may be due to short circuit (per code) the fuel injector is sending high volume of fuel and this is causing excessive fuel to go into the cylinder and hence high volume of emission. I replaced the fuse box again and after another 100 miles or, the problem is reappearing.
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We purchased a used 2010 Journey in May. In early June, we found that when running errands in the heat, at about the third errand the car won't start. It will kind of chug chug, turns over, but doesn't catch. We took it in once and they rewired the starter. (someone had wired with with a piece of extension cord?). Then, a couple weeks later took it in for a new starter. Still does it. BUT, I think I figured out that when you wiggle the gear shift (Automatic) while in Park, it will start. It may take a few times, but it started for me twice this way.
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The car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
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So I've had this code come up and go off multiple times its P0A93 which has to do with the inverter Coolant pump, and all the posts I've read about it here, none of them had an intermittent problem with it. Like it will come on and then I let it sit overnight adn it will go off. When I take the cap off the reservoir there is turbulence in the coolant and I've bled it many times. It came on and shut off 2 times on my drive to New York 3 weeks ago but then didn't come on again until today, almost 2500 miles later. And today when the light came on it listed these 4 codes.
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For some time I've thought my starter is going bad because I'll have to hit the ignition multiple times for it to actually start...I've even had to resort to push-starting it a couple of times. How can I tell if this is a bad starter or something else like the main relay?
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Don't know about this code? Can't find any info on it anywhere? Saw it come up multiple times with my own eyes. 2007 Touring
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I have the keyless wireless option and one of my key fobs stopped working so I put a new battery in. So now instead of blinking once in the upper right-hand corner when I push the button and working properly instead the little red button in the corner links three times and nothing else happens . I even switched batteries from the one that still works to the one that does not work in case I got a bad new battery but no changes on either key.
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2000 Buick 3.8. stop for gas, red light, etc. engine quits. 1st repair shop said fuel pump bad. Replace filter pressure okay. car starts later, quits multiple times. 2nd repair shop, car quits while there. Mechanic comes out with tester and says "no spark", ignition module bad, also spark plug harness bad. Replace just wires, and car runs for 9 months, no trouble. Now car quits while driving, no sputtering, just quits! Wait awhile, car starts, but 30 miles later, quits. Seems that hot weather has something to do with it, although it quit on a cold rainy fall day and had a hard time starting again. It did start and ran for 300 miles before acting up.
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I am fixing up a Mrk IV Golf. One of problems I am having is that the brakes are not firm despite being bleed multiple times. The brakes work but the pedal does not inspire confidence, and I know there is braking performance being left on the table. The brakes are to large and the car is to small to brake as slow as it does. Are Golfs a cross bleed system? I have be bleeding them like I would on an old American car, which is what I normally work on.
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