Honda - Odyssey :: 2001 - Transmission Whine Increasing Gradually
Jul 4, 2015
For over 3 years, my 2001 Honda Odyssey transmission has had a whine, gradually increasing in volume. The pitch increases with speed, not RPMs because it continues to increase pitch when it shifts and reduces RPMs. There are no performance issues, and there are no error codes when hooked to the computer. The transmission was put in at 93,000, 80,000 miles ago. Had fluid flushed and replaced with no effect.
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Our 2003 Odyssey had the transmission rebuilt last month after the original finally failed (215,000 miles). After the rebuild, third gear has a whine. (I don’t recall if it was there before the rebuild – it’s the wife’s ride, she wouldn't have noticed it anyway, and apparently I didn't either). The whine pitch varies with RPM, and is louder if the transmission is under a load. Going up a hill with the accelerator depressed makes the whine louder – taking your foot off the accelerator quiets it. I have a warranty for two years on the rebuild, but before I go back and start asking them about the noise, I was wondering what would cause it? I am worried they didn’t rebuild everything and will just tell me the whine is “nothing to be concerned about.” The transmission shifts smoothly and appears to operate normally other than the whine in third gear under a load.
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I have this noise that is cumming from under the car about dead center Engine area its only heard while driving and more as the car has been driven for some time. From speeds 20mph and above only when increasing speed or when full throttle. It wont do it in park or revving it i jack up the car front end and put in drive only front right tire turns but still no noise(is there away for the left tire to turn). Everthing works normal the noise is low and at times only.
2.4L Sonata 68000+miles.
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Recently had my 105K maintenance done which was water pump and timing belt plus whatever other misc belts go with that. Had it done at an indepentdent shop. Since the job was done we have noticed a high pitched whine that increases in pitch with RPM or speed that we drive (literally sounds like a jet engine whine). I took it back to the independent shop and he suggested it was our transmission. I have noticed no difficulty when changing gears nor any engine warning lights. I contacted Honda and our vehicle was part of a transmission recall in 05 that was done already. Other sources have suggested that the whine could be the belt being too tight or the water pump. Shop supposedly used all honda parts. Should I take it back to him again and suggest that the belt is too tight? Take it to the dealer and see what they think?
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I have a Honda Odyssey with 154000 miles on it. In February it started to slip when putting it into drive. I thought this was due to the cold snap. The slip/delay grew until it would disengage from gear when driving. Eventually it was not safe to drive and I had it towed to a transmission shop. They have replaced the TCU, the torque converter arm & the transmission & the ring kit. He has told me that he won't charge more than he originally quoted me, but when I went out there yesterday nothing had changed (it was still on the lift with the exhaust & undercarriage on the floor) since two days prior when he told me it would be done on Friday. Do I have any recourse, and how do I make him finish this job?
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We currently have a 2003 Honda odyssey with about 119K miles. About once a month the transmission does not want to change between 2nd and 3rd gear causing it to rev very high. The only resolution is take your foot off the gas until its back to an idle state. Now I have read that these transmissions suck and have a bunch of problems. We are driving long this summer and we need a new trans. Last year when we drove to NC the car started to buck and rev really high when on cruise control for awhile. not sure if its connected but it was not fun.
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We got this product called "Lucas Transmission Fix" to try to quell the hesitation of the transmission when shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. It claims to stop slips and do other things beneficial to the transmission. The car is a 2003 Honda Odyssey. Is this product safe to use on this car? Is there the possibility that it would make the hesitation worse?
Some background information on the car:
- We bought it used last September with 137,000 miles. There are now 150,000 miles.
- Soon after we bought it, we changed the transmission fluid with Honda AFT DW
- 1 because it was slipping from 1st to 2nd gear
- After the fluid change, it started to slip from 3rd to 4th gear instead. Or maybe it was my imagination that it was slipping from 1st to 2nd before?
- The slippage is a lot more severe in cold weather / when the engine is cold
- In my last post about the Odyssey's transmission slip, some people suggested that the EGR valve be replaced. That has not been done.
- The spark plugs were changed last month. The old spark plugs were Denso, the new ones NGK-All maintenance is up to date
- The car is in good running condition other than the transmission slippage and an odd engine vibration somewhere between 1000 and 2000 RPM
- The dealer discovered oil leaks from oil filter housing gasket and rear main seal during the last oil change in mid-February. It must be a pretty small leak.
- A recall for the ignition interlock mechanism was done sometime in March
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For a few years now, in cold weather, when starting my 2000 Honda Odyssey the TCS light will stay on and the transmission will not shift out of low gears. I can drive in reverse just fine, but when I try shifting to drive, the "D" drive indicator does not light up and it will only drive in what seems to be first gear. However, when sufficiently warmed up, I can restart the engine, the TCS light goes out, and everything's normal. The warm up time varies from 5 to 10 mins or more, and is unpredictably annoying. I went to a dealer last year and they didn't seem to have a clue. Is it just a matter of a bad sensor?
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2001 Honda Odyssey 200k miles
recent (1-month-old) changes: a-new alternator-new a/c generator
What is happening:1) starting the car all instrumental dash lights stayed on and only very slowly cleared. This happened all the time I started the car.2) All red lights (brake, battery, and all doors open) start turning on together quite often.3) And I see a dropping in 'power' voltage. Like my headlights are getting darker. The headlights are also buring out quite often,
I went toan AAA mechanic and they checked the car and found nothing. And he said he did nothing.Since then all instrument dash lights turn off at normal speed.But all the red lights still light regularly. But less than before.This (the red lights lighting) happens more often if A/C in on. Less if the only fan is on. And even less while driving - usually when slowing down.
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I have a well-maintained 2001 Honda Odyssey EX with about 162k miles. It's had all of it's recommended maintenance at the recommended intervals. And until lately all of that maintenance was done at the dealership. Of note, the transmission was replaced by the dealer at around 100k miles. Other than fit-and-finish issues it runs great.
Over the past few months, I've had issues with it starting. The key will turn, everything "lights-up" as it should, I hear the engine crank normally, but it just won't start. I do this 2, 3, 4, 5 times over a few minutes and finally, it starts. When it does start it runs fine. Sometimes this happens several times in a single day. Sometimes it goes for 1-2 weeks without it happening at all. I've tried to make a note of when this occurs to see if there is a pattern. Unfortunately, I've not come across anything obvious. The engine can be cold or hot. Rainy weather, dry weather. (I opened the hood and sprayed it down with the hose, it started no problem at all.) I've paid attention for the "immobilizer" indicators and I don't see that either. No check engine light. No codes.
A friend suggested that when this occurs to sniff for uncombusted fuel in the exhaust -- I did not smell anything. I suppose this suggests that it's a fuel issue and not a spark issue. I've taken it to my trustworthy local mechanic, and they a) couldn't recreate the problem, and b) couldn't find anything wrong. For good measure, they removed and cleaned the throttle body, but that didn't work.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey and no air blows out of the rear AC ceiling vents, however the AC does work and blows cold air out of the front dash vents. I set the control (in the front) to have AC in the rear, but no air in the back. I do hear a click when I move the front controls from low to medium to high (blue dots). What might be the issue?
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I have a 01 Honda Odyssey and I am getting no heat in the front of the van. In the back I can get heat just fine. Also the front blows on all setting, just cool air. I am wondering, what it might be and what I can check.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 140,000 miles. In the past year we've had major repairs to the car including rebuilding the transmission, fixing things on the steering column, replacing the catalytic converter, waterpump and timing belt, and a complete brake job. We thought we would be good to go for another 3 years on this van. But it continues to have this sporadic problem a few times a week: I will put the car into drive and press the accelerator, but the engine doesn't seem to get any fuel and it feels like the car may die or stall. If I keep my foot on the accelerator, the car will kick in and go after a few seconds.
A couple of times, I pushed down a little bit harder on the accelerator, but it sort of surged or jumped a bit and then got going just fine. My mechanic says this problem has to happen while he's driving it and has it hooked up to a machine or something in order to diagnose it and he is going to charge me more diagnostic fees to hunt for the problem. He says it could be many things. Is there something simple I can check myself in order to fix this before paying more fees? Would a different type of gas, or additives or a simple change of spark plugs be the first thing to try? We're tired of putting money into this van, but we feel we are invested in it now, and want to hang in there.
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I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey that doesn't start sometimes - mostly when it's really cold but not exclusively. It doesn't seem to matter if the gas tank is full or empty. It turns over fine and will catch and the die multiple times. There is sometimes a large "clunk" while it is turning over and all the lights will go off and then it will start turning over again. It can take a minute to 15 minutes to start when it isn't starting but about half the time, it start right up. This is only in the morning, once it's going for the day, it works. 126,000 miles, timing belt changed a couple of years ago.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 90000 miles. Lat last year around Oct/Nov time frame, check engine light came on. I took my vehicle to a local Auto Zone store and they scanned the code and told me it was P0420 - bad catalytic converter.
I replaced the cat converter with an after market model, however after 3/4 months (after driving 2000 to 3000 miles), check engine light came on with the same code. The mechanic changed the cat converter and put a new (after market model). Again after 3/4 months (2000 to 3000 miles) check engine light came on again. And this time the mechanic replaced the cat converter and also oxygen sensor. Now after 4 months or so the check engine light is on the vehicle again.
The mechanic is now saying that the problem is not with the cat converter and he is saying there is a lot of abnormal deposit on the vehicle. When he scanned again he found another issue that read something like "high voltage" and this time the guy thought may be due to short circuit (per code) the fuel injector is sending high volume of fuel and this is causing excessive fuel to go into the cylinder and hence high volume of emission. I replaced the fuse box again and after another 100 miles or, the problem is reappearing.
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2007 Honda CRV EX80k MilesAC goes from cold to blowing out warm air
Starting up the car and driving the air is nice and cold for 15 minutes or so.It then slowly goes to warmer air over the next few minutes while driving. Pulling over and checking the AC line with my hand under the hood it is going from ice cold to warm.When it is in this mode of warm air, turning the ac on and off with the dash button you can hear the cooling fan kick in but not the click you usually hear which I think is the compressor clutch engaging. If you turn on and off enough while driving it can sometimes go back to good cold air again very quickly.
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I have a 2001 GMC Sonoma Highrider Edition it has the 4.3 Vortex and its 4x4 my transmission has been whining slightly it has 169,000 miles on it runs and shifts great it when's when ever its in park and whens threw 1st gear from what I can tell but it doesn't whine in Reverse from what I can tell. This is my first truck and I love it so far and Id hate for the transmission.
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I was driving up a fairly big hill in Connecticut using cruise control (65 mph). The transmission downshifted, and the car started to rev (speedometer and tachometer) and slow down. I then felt a clunk and the car started to go again. The car kept on doing the rev up and then clunk as it gradually slowed down. Putting the car in Park caused a grinding noise, and Park did not keep the car from rolling. What did I break?
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The other night I passed a car overheating (Subaru) and checked my temp gauge and saw my needle was gradually climbing towards the half mark. This is not normal for my 96 Honda Accord. No lights coming on, so I blasted the heater and needle immediately returned to it's normal position. Filled the coolant, it was low, but the problem remains if the heater isn't turned on to at least 3. This doesn't seem extreme enough to be the thermostat. Could my fan be out?
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VERY interested in the 2.0T but when I test drove it this weekend, the transmission seemed to lurch when I was gradually gaining speed from a stop. I wasn't trying to press the accelerator hard. Just driving it like I would my car and gradually gain speed while driving economically. The 2.4 seemed to do this less, but it also did it.
For those who own 2.0Ts, could y'all tell me if this is normal? I plan on test driving other 2.0T in the event the one I drove was an exception, but just curious.
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