Honda - Odyssey :: 1999 - Gas Meter / Thermometer And Speedometer Drop
Mar 10, 2011
This has happened a few times now. First time at a stop light, and most recently while coming down a hill. All of my needles drop and I get no response from the engine, brakes and power steering work for a little while and then they cut out. I pull over to the side of the road, turn it off, sometimes it turns back on immediately, other times it will do the same thing needles go up and back down.
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I have 1999 Honda Accord LX, 185000 mile, with 4 cylinders. Starts one month ago, the speedometer drop to zero randomly and immediately come back to normal on highway several times. Recently, car stops twice on street. Dashboard panel had no power. It seems electricity shuts off. I turn the key to OFF and turn the key to ON immediately then the car starts OK. The ignition switch was changed since there was a recall for it. What is wrong with my car?
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I have a '05 Honda odyssey that has recently started showing drop in rpms at approx 30MPH. At that speed, I see that RPM suddenly drops from 2500 to 2000, pressing on gas really hard, triggers downshifting of gears and everything comes back to normal. I suspect some issues with how gears are being shifted...
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I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
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I just installed a Prosport Boost Meter in my automatic B5. Pics included of the vac line I spliced into and everything. The meter works perfectly fine (though I'm not boosting as much as I'd like ).
I've noticed a decrease in my idling RPM and when I let off the accelerator and come to a stop, my RPMS drop incredibly low, to about 600, and recover to my new normal idle of about 900.
Any explanation for this or things I should be worried about, or is that just the nature of the beast?
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I have a Chevy 2006 Malibu LT V6 and when i first got the car a year ago I had no problems. After a few months, I would fill up the tank up completely and then drive it around and stop at a stop light. The gas meter would drop from Full to Empty with the light coming on then reset itself. It happened sparingly so I thought nothing of it. Now just a few days ago I filled the tank up and now the gauge is staying at Full when I know for a fact that I do not have a full tank. Whenever I turn on the car, the gas gauge needle jumps from full to empty to half to full to quarter until ending at full. Lately, I've been trying to go off the fuel mileage on my radio but with that resetting to what my fuel gauge says I'm getting fearful of running out of gas.
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I own a 1999 Honda Odyssey with 130,000 miles. Over the past 6 months I've spent $1600 on routine repairs (brakes, alignment, battery, struts, shocks, etc). Now it's stalling out while driving. The maintenance light flashes followed by a "green key" light, then it stalls out when I'm driving under 30 mph. It does start right up afterwards. The Honda people recommend replacing a worn "ignition lock cylinder" for $700. They ran it for 130 miles and physically banged it on the underside of the steering column to make the car stall out. Should I invest this $700 on this car? Do I need to replace the ignition lock cylinder? I'd prefer to keep the car for another 2-3 years, or do I junk it now before repairs start piling up?
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My odyssey stops running when I am driving on the road. The instrument panel goes off and the engine shuts down. There are 166,000 miles on it. I took it to the Honda dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
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My wife has been driving our 98 Dodge Grand Caravan the last couple of days and while she is driving the Tachometer and Speedometer will drop to 0. This does not affect the performance of the engine or anything else. Runs and drives "perfect" (or at least for its age and mileage). The dash seems to "reset" when she parks and turns off the ignition then restarts it.
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How to fix a speedometer reading fluctuation? When I am driving about 45 mph the speedometer will drop to zero (RPM does not change) and then will bounce. Some times the speedometer will remain at zero other times it will bounce back to indicating speed.
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1997 Ford F250 4x4 HD ... My vehicle has about 197,000 miles on it and for the most part still functions properly. I do have an odd "happening" sometimes and here is a description:
I will be driving along and all of a sudden the digital odometer readout will go blank and the speedometer will drop to 0 if I was going 60 mph or below or to 120 if I was going over 60 mph.
Where do I start troubleshooting?
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I believe the condenser has leaked out. IS it safe to replace or do I need to take it in to flush out any residual freon? Just want to be safe.
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Just got a new battery for my 2002 Honda Odyssey on Friday. I did not drive the car Saturday or Sunday, Monday morning it faintly sounded like it would start but then would start clicking. After several attempts it started. I drove about 3 miles to drop my kids off at school and it started right up when I left the school. Should I take it back to where I got my battery or will it be fine if I don't let it sit for days without starting?
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The heater fan runs fine. Cold air comes out of all the vents (defroster, floor, dash). There is plenty of coolant in the system, and my mechanic advises the engine is running at the correct temperature. The heater hoses at the firewall are warm/hot as if coolant is flowing through. Flushed the heater core (but that didn't fix the problem). My mechanic now wants to drill some holes in the duct work to see if there is a mouse nest or some other obstruction.
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2000 Honda Odyssey - CEL came on a couple of days ago and I took it to get the code read. The reader says it can't link up with the ecu. Tried the same reader on another car and it worked fine. The transmission was rebuilt last year (about 9 mo. ago) and I'm concerned that something was not hooked up right during the rebuild. Is this a possibility for the non-linking of the reader to the ecu? Also, last year, before the tranny rebuild, I had a reader hooked up to the ecu and it worked fine.
As a side note, the TCS light comes on sometimes after starting the car and won't turn off. If I restart the car it will turn off and work properly. I imagine this is related, but not sure since I can't read the code for the CEL.
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My sister unknowingly grabbed her Honda Odyssey car key and used it to start and drive her Honda Civic. She didn’t realize what she’d done until she had trouble taking the key out of the ignition after driving the Civic. Now we’re wondering about these car keys and security.
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When I had my oil changed, I was told that a "Main Bolt" needed to be replaced because it was starting to leak oil. He said that there was a sealant of some type on it that was wearing away and that even though I see no evidence of an oil leak, I would soon. He said that one of the axles would have to be removed to replace it.
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My 2004 Honda Odyssey shakes when I am pressing on the gas and going 22 to 25 miles per hour and also around 45 miles per hour. It shops once I pass those speeds. could it my the Torque converter?
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I have a 2003 Odyssey minivan that shudders when going through the speedzone of around 40mph. It does not occur when I put it in '3' (so prevents transmission from selecting Overdrive), so I suspect it has something to do with shifting in to OD. We have replaced the engine mounts on this car.
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I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey with 71,000 miles on it. It was vibrating while breaking at about 60 mph so we went to a Sears Auto shop. They did a disc rotor refinishing and installed new brake hardware. The vibration continued and I went to Sears again and he assessed the problem and he said that rear brake rotors had to be installed. He asked me to bring it in tomorrow as he did not have the part. What is wrong with this picture.
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I accidentally put the key from my 2008 Honda Odyssey into the ignition of my 2004 Honda Odyssey, and now the key won't come out! How to get the key out? I tried jiggling the steering wheel, jiggling the key, disabling the battery, unlocking the gear shift and putting the car in and out of park, but nothing even remotely loosens the key.
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