Honda - Grandcherokee :: Check Engine Gas Cap Code On 2001 Jeep
Sep 2, 2016
My daughter's Jeep check engine light is on. Trying to get the car inspected so cannot be ignored. I think the code wasP0422, indicating it needed a new gas cap. We bought a new gas cap, cleared the code and it went away for a few days but before she could get it inspected, the light came on again. I saw similar problems suggestions were to get a better gas cap (we got one at autozone), or it could be something like a pump problem. We haven't taken to a dealer - it's a 2001
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So this little gem of an SUV has been good enough to me over the year that I have had it, but it is one of those used vehicles that has me scared to look underneath cause there is always something a miss.
I have been having some power problems and the OBD check engine light has been coming on. The engine like to putter like if it's not getting enough fuel from a clogged fuel filter when it gets going, hot or cold. Have confirmed that the fuel pump is with proper voltage and pressure. Though haven't noticed a big difference with the new filter. The check engine light cycles a code of 21, which is refinanced to the O2 sensor, both upstream and down stream. That tells me that there are TWO O2 sensors for this model. And research has confirmed this. One ahead of the cat and one behind the cat.
Here's the kicker, I only have one O2 sensor at the head of the cat and the location of where the second one would be located is only a solid section of pipe from cat to muffler. I haven't been able to track down the plug connection for the second sensor and these codes and problem only came after I gave the Jeep a tune up.
1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8
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I have a 2001 Honda CRV with about 140,000 miles. It is an upstate NY car, so has seen its share of salt and rough winter driving, has a little bit of rust.
I recently brought it in for repairs because it was overheating. It was over the holiday weekend and I had a job interview to get to so I brought it a chain, which was the only open mechanic I could find. They told me there was a coolant leak and replaced the radiator.
The next day, the check engine came on. Cylinder misfire code. I took it back to them and they wouldn't give me a straight answer on what was going on but insist they told me that would happen and it needed more repairs which I had apparently refused. They told me it's probably the spark plugs/wires are old but maybe there's more damage, but basically that they didn't want to deal with it.
So I brought the car to my regular guy. He says, yeah it needs a tune-up. So he replaces the spark plugs and wires etc and gives it back. I drove it for a day and the light came back on. So I brought it back to him again and he refused to do anything. Wouldn't give me some possible causes or explanations, just says come pick it up. Didn't say stop driving it, take it to a dealer, he just reset the check engine light and said its probably fine.
The next time I drove the car, while it was warming up the check engine light was flashing. By the time the engine was warm the light had stopped flashing and was on.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 90000 miles. Lat last year around Oct/Nov time frame, check engine light came on. I took my vehicle to a local Auto Zone store and they scanned the code and told me it was P0420 - bad catalytic converter.
I replaced the cat converter with an after market model, however after 3/4 months (after driving 2000 to 3000 miles), check engine light came on with the same code. The mechanic changed the cat converter and put a new (after market model). Again after 3/4 months (2000 to 3000 miles) check engine light came on again. And this time the mechanic replaced the cat converter and also oxygen sensor. Now after 4 months or so the check engine light is on the vehicle again.
The mechanic is now saying that the problem is not with the cat converter and he is saying there is a lot of abnormal deposit on the vehicle. When he scanned again he found another issue that read something like "high voltage" and this time the guy thought may be due to short circuit (per code) the fuel injector is sending high volume of fuel and this is causing excessive fuel to go into the cylinder and hence high volume of emission. I replaced the fuse box again and after another 100 miles or, the problem is reappearing.
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I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L nonHO. I get a P0308 code that I have not been able to hunt down. It is odd because I only get the code if I restart the vehicle when it is warm. If I let it cool down all the way, no code, but if I restart after an hour or so, the code pops up. I have changed the plugs and the coil. I have run injector cleaner, but not changed the injector as I am nervous about busting the tiny plastic clips with my big meaty paws.
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I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 2.8 Diesel. It has about 57000 miles on it and when I took it to be inspected, a Code PO 299 came up. The dealer has done quite a bit of work to it and cannot find a way to get this light to stay off. When something is done, it goes off until it is driven, then it comes on again. So far the jeep runs great, but it's hard to pass inspection unless the light goes out.
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This problem started out about a month and a half ago. It started missing slightly. Then I noticed my gas was going down very fast. So I started watching it, A five mile trip used a eighth tank of gas. It keeps getting worse. My husband popped the hood and was looking to see if he could spot anything.( Couldn't smell any gas) He noticed the purge control solenoid wasn't making the noise it normally does. He took it off, cleaned it and put it back on and it started working again. ( NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON AT ANY TIME ) It did it again.
So we called the dealer, made an appointment, took it in, The dealer service guy said he Scanned for codes PO443 Performed Diagnosis Found EVAP PURGE SOLENOID Sticking Open. He said everything else checked out good. He ordered the part, called said it was in, went back, installed it. Amazingly IT"S STILL NOT WORKING. Now, I Do Not TRUST the dealership. It Stalls and misses and spits and sputters when it is in park and you give it the gas. There's times when I am at a parking lot waiting to get out and I start to pull out it trys to die on me.
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I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with 215xxx miles. It just started stalling coming up to a stop, but then it starts right up no problem. Engine idles a little rough and the gas mileage has gone down somewhat. The CEL came on a while ago, and the auto shop checked the computer code and said it was the neutral safety switch. I brought this up with a friend who had the same problem and he rebuilt his and said it was easy. So I was going to attempt it, but I can't find the darn thing. @ questions:
1)where is it? and
2)could the NSS be causing the stalling?
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The sound is random, inside the cabin, probably comes from in front of the driver. Lasts for a few seconds but goes on repeatedly. I found that when I apply the brakes, even a gently tap, the sound goes away, but will return.
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I have a V6 Automatic 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 94k miles on it. For the last two years my transmission has been slipping only when I make left turns. I have tried changing fluid and filters. The problem hasn't gotten worse but it is pretty dangerous as I cannot accelerate when I make a left turn. I was wondering if there is anything that could be causing this problem.
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I own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee with 104,000+ miles. It runs great and doesn't have any issues. However, i started it up this morning and the check engine light came on. Should this be concerning? I haven't done any real maintenance on it since it runs so well. And i guess that's my other question - what should i do to the Jeep to keep it running for another 100,000+ miles? Spark plugs? Timing belt??
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My '01 Grand Cherokee Limited is overheating. I have changed the thermostat and ran a leak test. I am not having a leak. The temp drops when I turn on the A/C or heater. I went back to the shop that changed the thermostat and leak test. They said it was the fan control and I have to go to the dealer to reflash the program for the fan control. I made the mistake of asking the dealer to reflash, instead of having them check on the overheating problem. I'm planning on going back to the dealer to have them diagnose the issue.
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I am experiencing engine stalling while driving my 1996 Grand Cherokee, after it went low on gas about 6 weeks ago.
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01 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I just changed the water pump and the thermostat on the Jeep but the last two days when I drove it to work, the heater was blowing cold air and the engine was getting hot, almost to the red. What do you think that I should look into about getting the problem fixed>?
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I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2001 with about 150,000 miles. About every other day my car will shut off while I'm stopped at a light, stop sign, etc. The strange thing is that the radio and lights (stuff controlled by the battery I assume) does not turn off with the engine. It seems the frequency with which this happens has stayed about the same, and I haven't been too worried until yesterday when I went to start my car and it would not start. It just kept revving and seemed like it was very close to starting.
I opened the hood and saw a lot of corrosion on the battery and luckily I had a coke in the car. After pouring some coke and wiping away the corrosion, the car started up. I have had no problems since I did this yesterday. But like I said, my car engine seems to turn off without warning so it could happen next time I drive. If these two problems could be linked, that is the corrosion on the battery could have caused both the car not starting and the engine shutting off when the car is idling. I took to a mechanic about a month ago and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and, of course, it didn't shut off when they drove it.
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I have an issue with my 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee v8 Laredo that has been bothering me for a little over a year now. When the temperature gets warm out (over 80) and I am traveling on the interstate up a long hill (65-70 mph, towards the end of my commute so about 30 miles in or about 30 minutes) my engine randomly begins to sound like I am in the wrong gear (RPMs do not change but engine sounds like I just changed to second) and I loose quite a bit of torque. I can maintain my speed but my engine sound horrible. After about 10 minutes of this my engine goes back to normal and I can accelerate without issue. Then randomly it goes back to being loud with low torque. To add to the the fun, if this happens at any time during the day, the next day when I start my Jeep the issue resurfaces and I have no torque for about 10 minutes (5 miles) then all is well for the rest of my commute (40 miles downhill). I had a diagnostic scan done and they found nothing wrong and I also just got both of my exhaust manifolds replaces but the issue continues.
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 120,000 miles. The engine light came on and I took it in for service. The catalytic converter was defective and replaced. After service and 30 miles the light came back on. They erased the memory. After 35 miles the light came back on. So far I have returned 4 times and they cannot find the problem.
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My Jeep sounds like it is in low gear and engine sounds like its turning 4000rpm but only when cold. This is so noticeable that dogs stare and pedestrians run for cover. Once the engine and drivetrain warm up a little, all is normal. The reality is that the engine is only turning 2500rpm and it is shifting, but the tranny doesn't feel like its grabbing very well. After just a few minutes driving, all is well and there is plenty of power. Fluids are all topped off and fresh.Is it time to warm this baby up and drive it to the nearest car lot?
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cyl. engine, ~145k miles. A few weeks ago, I noticed the engine would occasionally run rough at idle, dropping down to a low rpm (~500 rpm, but erratic) for a few seconds before stalling. This usually happens when in park or stopped at a stoplight, but it's occasionally happened at low speed while coasting to a stop (never while accelerating, or while traveling above 20 mph or so). Generally, the car will restart right away, though sometimes I have wait a few seconds to a minute (I was a real popular guy at that intersection).
At first, no codes came up, so I changed the plugs and wires (I was due anyway). That didn't work. (The plugs, while worn, looked normal to me-no residue). I've since had a P0351 code pop up. Before I throw parts at this code (ignition coil, I believe), is there anything else I should be looking into?
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Recently replaced crank p.S. that a dodgy mechanic installed app 5 myths ago seems he used after market Chinese shit instead of ome gear well one thing leads to another as all jeepers know with highway speed engine missing when engine warms up l found that instead of running power cable from sensor above the trans fluid tube , in his wisdom ran under said tube causing a short to the computer not realy the best for them , now l have issues with idle ,02 , tps, possible computer.
Jeep Grand Cherokee 96 zj 4ltr Auto ...
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