Honda - Fit :: Persistent Vibration Happens At Around 45 MPH And Above
Apr 4, 2011
The car had been in an accident where I hit a curb with two wheels sqaure on at 20mph, on the passenger side. It was repaired at the dealer where they replaced two arms, two rims, two tires. That was fall, 2 years ago. The dealer's repair shop denied that there was a vibration problem after the repair. Time has passed, and it has not "gone away." This persistent vibration happens at around 45mph and above, getting worse as you go faster, making any long-distance highway travel intolerable (headaches). The wheels are aligned and balanced according to tire shop equipment (within normal tolerances). The drivers side front tire tread wears down in a matter of months, even though the tires are aligned. I suspect the frame is bent... What should I do? Where should I go for real results, to get rid of this vibration problem?
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In the last few months, I've been having misfires at idle. I didn't realize at first what the vibration was, since I had cams installed over the summer and had my flywheel replaced a couple of weeks ago. I have replaced the plugs and coil packs and for a couple of days, it ran fine. Tonight, they started up again, mostly in a single cylinder. I swapped out coil packs - no change. Switched plugs between two cylinders - the misfire followed the plug. Swapped in an old plug - things improved, misfires went from 2-3 per second to maybe one every 5-10 seconds. Few to no misfires when revs go up. My battery is 5 years old, could that be an issue? Wire harnesses - do they go bad?
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Today I started the car, put the radio on and, while the radio played fine, there was a tone that sounded over the top of everything. I changed to CD and it was there too! It was similar to the parking sensor tone, so similar that I thought it was that.
I moved closer to the garage wall and then realised the tone was slightly different as the parking sensors came on and beeped. I switched off and re-started and it didn't do it!!! Ehat this is? There were NO error messages at all.
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My 14 C2 has this persistent rattle from the glove box hinge. It's that single plastic hinge extender for smoothly opening the glove box. I've taken it out and re-settled it into the box socket but the rattle is starting again when going over bumps... Is it just mine?
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Under your Prius, you have "guards" made of plastic and held in place by fasteners that unscrew off but press onto the bolt studs coming down from the metal. They basically shield the underside from debris but have holes to let water flow back out.
I had a persistent squeak for the last couple of weeks that was really annoying me. So, I set out to see what I could do about it. I thought I'd have to add an adhesive pad as a "bumper" between two parts, but when I tapped on the guard (reproducing the noise), I could tell there was a lot of pea gravel in there.
It took a while to get the first fastener off. They don't just "unscrew" that easily. The slightest pressure and you wind up pushing them back on. So, I had to work with two tools with one being a screwdriver gently prying it away from the panel so each turn made it come farther off the bolt. Once the first one was done, the rest were easy. Three in total on each side.
I got a cereal bowl full of pea gravel out of each guard. I was shocked that so much road debris was trapped up on there, but this stuff was big enough to not flow out with the water.
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I have a persistent rattle in the glove box. Have tightened the 7 screws which improved it somewhat, but it's still there when I go over bumps.
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Am I the only one who has to add 10 psi a week to his tires? I have the stock GLX wheels from 2001 model year, and found out a while back that they are actually painted. The paint flakes off, and there's a bit of corrosion on the bead as well causing persistent leaks. When I have tires changed, my mechanic smooths off the wheels with a grinding tool and often applies some sort of gooey adhesive to maintain a seal, but it doesn't seem to work for long.
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I bought a CRV a few months ago. Of course when I test drove there were no issues. Now when I drive there is vibration like running cow grates at about 40-44mph. I came across a post about this problem but with no solution and it's now closed. Has there been a solution??? It's quite annoying!!!! I read some place else it's in the drive line. But again no solution. It quits of you accelerate or decelerate. You have to be going at a perfectly steady speed. Italso seems to slip or change gears, something, just not a smooth drive at other times. Is this the transmission??? Occasionally it smells really bad after I turn car off too.
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so the car was taken to the dealer TWICE for the exact same symptoms. Few drops of oil on garage floor after day of driving and sitting overnight. The first time they retorqued the drain plug which was loose and the second time they retorqued the oil pan bolts, which were loose. There was some residual oil on the undercarriage tray after the first time that they cleaned off the second time. But today I noticed the small holes in the undercarriage tray on the passenger side of vehicle to be wet with oil substance, and a drop of oil on the floor. The car has 2700 miles and had proper break in.
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Just bought a Sonata '15 2.0t sport. 8/10 times I start the car with plenty of gas, a message pops up on the nav screen saying the fuel is low and asking me whether I would like to navigate to the nearest gas station.
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I have a 2002 Honda CRV-LX with over 200,000 miles. I'm experiencing a loud hum and vibration between 40 and 50 mph on acceleration and deceleration. It occurs when I'm driving straight or turning left, but goes away when I turn right.
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So I've been experiencing some shaking in my automatic 2001 Honda Accord EX Coupe 3.0L V6. The shaking starts at about 40mph and can last up to about 55-60 mph when it starts to fade away or become unnoticeable. The shaking is a lot more noticeable when your on an incline and accelerating. The shaking feels as though it rocks side-to-side but my steering wheel doesn't shake or pull. I've gotten my car tires/wheels balanced, replaced the wheels/rims, go new tires, had everything balanced again, and got an alignment done.
Since I used to think that the shaking was more prevalent in the back end of the car, I replaced the sway bar link stabilizers as directed by a friend. Needless to say, none of those things stopped the shaking. My first set of wheels/rims had one bent rim, so it shook because of that and couldn't really distinguish that there was something else beyond the bent wheel that could cause the shaking. So that's why I had to replace those wheels and tires. My new wheels required hub rings so discount tire put those on when installing them.
I've had my car lowered using lowering springs, which dropped the car about 1.8-2 inches. I had that done over a year ago and really don't think that's what would have caused the shaking. I say that because I've had those springs for a pretty long time and I wasn't experiencing any shaking after installing them. I know that my car doesn't have a stock camber kit that allows for lowering the car. But I'm not worried about the camber even though it does wear out the inside of the tire faster than the outside. I've had my exhaust done as well.
It goes from the catalytic converter to the back (cat-back) with a 2.5 inch piping. There's no leaks or anything and it's not loose either. And those are pretty much the only things I've done to upgrade my car. Of course I get regular oil changes and I recently did a transmission flush (drain and fill). I've been reading up on what could cause the shaking, through online threads, and all I can see that might be the cause is the CV axles? They've had the same issues that I'm having, replaced the axles, and that fixed their shaking.
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I had my rotors turned and pads replaced 2 years and approx. 11k miles ago, now I have a violent vibration when I brake. The new mechanic is saying the rotors are warped. Can this be so? I'm very easy on brakes...really. The car is an 2005 Honda Civic with 74k miles. Did I get ripped off by the last mechanic?
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I have a 2014 Prius v that I bought new in January 2014. I've had this persistent rattle which seemed like it was coming from the back seat behind the driver. I've taken the rear seat partially apart and glued and shimmed things to no avail. I've emptied the entire contents of the rear storage area and it still rattled on. Anyhow I've had this rattle for six months now. Turns out the noise is coming from under the car just ahead of the rear tire where some body type plastic which juts down about 2". This piece rattles when against the frame just ahead of where one would put a jack for lifting the car. I've temporarily stuffed some old paper napkins, which were handy, between the plastic piece and the frame. Noise is gone! I'll eventually remove the napkins and then load up the area with silicone. I'm doing both sides of the car just in case.
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I got my Egg on 8/5/03. I have almost 10,000 miles on it, and other than an assorted rattle and a persistent shimmy in the wheel at certain speeds, despite rebalancing and rotation at 7,000 miles, I love it. It's quick, handles very well, and rides great. It's a topic of conversation everywhere, and while this is a matter of opinion and as I value mine I'll give it to y'all, it is one of the best looking SUVs made.
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I have a squeaking sound that's coming out of my car when I accelerate and it has been persistent for the past few weeks. I'd like to fix it myself if possible. It seems like it's just a loose belt, but I'm not sure. If I don't have a lift, jack, or car mechanic experience is it reasonable to think that I could figure it out safely? I'm relatively good with my hands and at figuring things out. Are there any serious risks of damage to myself or the car from me tampering with the belts?
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Have had a persistent squeak in my passenger front door since buying it used 9 months sgo. Tried WD40, even have had dealer install 2 new hinges.. but still have the loud squeak (starts about 1/2 way opening the door).
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I have a 1999 F-150 4.2L with a misfire in #5 cylinder. I have replaced plugs, plug wires and coil pack, checked compression (147 psi) and ran 4 cans of seafoam thru it and still getting misfires on acceleration. It'a a 5 speed and it sounds rough and runs a lil rough as I go thru the first 3 gears, then it runs good as I get up to speed and cruises fine at 80mph. I'm thinking a bad fuel injector???
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My honda just celebrated its 155000 mile and low and behold it was greeted with a vibration in the steering column. It gets worse on uneven roads and pretty much goes away on smooth roads... What it might be?
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I have a 2005 honda element with 115,000 miles. Maintained to Honda specs. I get a vibration felt thru the whole car becoming evident at around 40 mph and dissipating around 50 mph. We have had the mechanic confirm all steering assemblies are tight, ball joints, tie rods etc. It has new brakes and the front rotors were also changed out. The brake job has been reck'd. 2 of the Michelien tires were older and replaced with new ones. All tires have been rebalanced. Rims seems fine.
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My car vibrates really bad when stopped and in drive. It does not vibrate in park or neutral. I took the car into my local mechanic who replaced the spark plugs, idle air control valve, throttle body gasket, charged me and it actually runs worse. The mechanic assigned to my car said he couldn't feel it so just replaced what he thought might be causing this vibration. It took me a day to calm down and take the car back and speak to the manager of the department who was amazed at how bad the car vibrated. 2002 Honda Accord 86,000 miles....
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