Honda - Fit :: 2008 - Intermittently Shake When AC Is On / In Drive And Foot On Brake?
May 3, 2014
Why does my 2008 Honda Fit intermittently shake when AC is on, in drive, and foot on brake?The shake is every 2 to 10 seconds, darn short each time, and hardly strong. (If it happens when I'm driving then it would be hard to notice). It definitely does not happen when in park or the AC is off.
Three weeks ago I got a rebuilt transmission. This issue started for the first time 3 days ago when the weather turned very hot for the first time in a while, although I have used the AC from time to time beforehand. Is it safe to drive over the weekend?
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I drive an automatic transmission. After driving about 10 miles, when I come to a stop sign/stoplight in drive 4, the car will "brake" but will idle and then violently shake back into gear. It doesn't seem to happen in Drive 3, so what I do before a stoplight etc is slowly shift down to D2 or D1. Is the transmission totally shot? I had it replaced once.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue that is experiencing a shifter problem. The problem is that periodically the shifter will not go from the "park" position to the "drive" position after the car is started and your foot is on the brake. I have been able to drive the car by inserting a small screwdriver into the slot on the gear shift assembly to depress the switch that allows you to override the mechanism but as you can imagine that is tedious and what do you do if suddenly the screwdriver is lost - you go nowhere and you can't even get to store to buy another one because the car won't move!
I have had the car into the dealer twice now and they have been unable to correctly diagnose the shifter problem. They have said that it could be a failed solenoid that senses the brake pedal being depressed but so far that has checked out fine. They also thought that it may be a brake sensor and they asked me to keep an eye on the brake lights to see if they come on when the brake pedal is depressed and the lights do come on so they believe that is not an issue. They "repositioned" the shift assembly in the car center console thinking that it may be an improper position and they tightened it down into place but that has not corrected the problem either. They now tell me that the entire shift assembly needs to be replaced at a cost of $670.00 and I find that hard to believe let alone pay for!
The car has about 70,000 mile on it and it was recently in an accident that did deploy some side airbags and I am wondering too if the accident may have damaged the assembly in some way that caused the malfunction where the repairs may be covered by my insurance company. This has only started after the accident repairs were made and we never had a problem like this prior to that event.
View 2 Replies
I think this is dangerous. Several times I've stopped and hit the turn off button and had the car creep forward when I actually didn't shut off the engine. I had taken my old 07 Prius to the dealer to see if they could fix this and they said they couldn't.
View 19 Replies
After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
View 3 Replies
There is an arm that has come loose and is in between the spring in the right rear wheel well area and I cannot find what its called. It comes out from the center of the car and down and has an upside down cup which belongs on a post with 4 little contacts. Additionally, my brake lamp indicator light was intermittently coming on and off after braking. Now that I have put the cup back on, the lamp is off. I want to be sure there isn't anything else missing from this part, but cannot find the name and am concerned as to how it came off its post to begin with.
View 17 Replies
I am a new driver and I made the following mistake twice.
Twice over the last month, after street parallel parking, engaging the foot parking brake, turning off and exiting the car, I noticed the spacing from the front and back car is a bit off so I went back inside the car to move the car slightly.
However, I forgot to disengage the parking brake first, so I put the car into R, and when the car did not move, I tapped on the accelerator. Only then did I remember to disengage the parking brake.
If I just tapped on the accelerator slightly, does it damage my car? I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I feel terrible about the screw ups.
View 13 Replies
The brake light on my 04 has come on twice the past week. The brakes are working fine, no problems. When I turn the truck off, then restart, the light goes out. Just had the front rotors changed.
View 6 Replies
As the title states, my brake light on the dash keeps on coming on intermittently. I can't figure it out. Fluid level is fine, and I added more just to be sure. Pads and rotors all got replaced within the last 9 months. I don't see any chafed or broken wires to the wheel/abs sensors. I don't know where else to look
Also when the light comes on the pads on the rear passenger side seem to drag a little bit. I can't feel it, but I can hear it just slightly.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2004 Treg with 28k miles. This car has the air suspension and the dashboard with the LCD display.
When the foot pedal break is released, the break light remains on and the center display sounds off the alarm that the foot break is on as the car begins to roll.
After half dozen additional pulls of the break release handle, the issue goes away. This is now happening almost every time the foot break is used.
View 6 Replies
Let me tell you a story ‘bout my daughter’s 2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L…
We have owned the car since 2009. Recently the car has begun to start intermittently. Generally it starts normally. Other times it won’t. It can be driven for a month with no problem and then BAM! It won’t start. No dead battery sound, no clicking, no starter trying to engage NUTT’N!
AND… the brake pedal is firm! The brake pedal is firm and cannot be pushed down!
The car has been to the Dodge dealer several times. They have replaced the starter because a couple of teeth were missing, flashed the computer and replaced the alternator. The car started fine for a few days and then wouldn’t start again.
The Dodge boys kept the car for a week and of course, it started fine while they had it. One of the service managers told me to pull out a certain fuse to reset the computer. They also told me that they usually see these types of problems if the car was jump started wrong (the jumper cables were hooked up backwards I guess).
View 4 Replies
Intermittently, the parking brake/ABS light comes on with no pattern I can put my finger on. Some times its on when I start it and stays on the entire time I drive it. Some times its off when I start it and then comes on while I'm driving it. This morning I took it by Advance auto and had them check for codes while the light was on: C1342 - ABS control module. I can't find a lot of information about this code or what can be done to fix it other than taking it to a dealer. Any alternative solution, perhaps re-seating the connectors to the module - and where the heck is the module and what does it look like?
View 1 Replies
My son's 2006 F-150 4x4, with 107,000 miles, has in intermittent brake light on. I replaced the rear pads, as they were nearly into the rotors. The brake pedal feels fine in all braking conditions. Could the master cylinder still be going bad? Anything else to check?
View 4 Replies
1992 c1500 5.7L
Every time I start and put n reverse I had to rev it before i can reverse or it will die, when in drive if i barely put my foot on the gas it stutters like its not getting fuel or a misfire or something. i have changed just about every sensor there is, as well as plugs. it only stutters when lightly on the gas pedal.
*About once a month* after driving about 50miles when you let off the gas going down the road it starts loping real bad, drops about 4-600 rpm until it dies.
View 4 Replies
This mazda is relatively quiet when on park and neutral and can feel more shake (feel from steering) while shifting to drive mode while idle/before redlight. it can feel more shake while on speed over 70 mph. it feel ok on speed lower than 70 mph. Just wonder if the engine/trans mount is the root cause. The trans is on drive side and engine is on passenger side. engine inside mount has been replaced and does not solve the problem much.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 45,000 miles, and my Camry engine is starting to shake when I put it in drive. My "Check Engine" light starts to flash. I haven't had any other problems, so I was surprised when this started to happen.
View 4 Replies
I own a manual 1992 Honda Civic VX. Recently, the clutch has started to stick about halfway up when I take my foot off after shifting sometimes. I pull it up with my foot when it does this, but clearly it shouldn't be happening. What could be causing this?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2007 Honda Fit with a standard transmission. My car has started losing power and decelerating even though, even with my foot on the gas. If I am on the interstate It will drop to about 35-40 and ten after 15 seconds or so it will accelerate again. If I am driving in town and I stop it will stall out. NO lights come on with it. It is very intermittent and I had to to the dealership and they said they couldn't tell what was going on since it didn't do it for them. I only have 70,000 miles and should have a road ready but I am afraid to take in on the interstate anywhere after a couple of frightening instances.
View 3 Replies
I just got new parts replaced in my car and I thought it would run way better but it seems to run worse. I took it in to a mechanics shop that I new. I have a 1990 Honda Civic Si Hatchback and before I he replaced new parts it was running nice. At high speeds after a while it would shake a bit and then the Engine light would turn on. He found out it was the O2 sensor. He has fixed other problems I had before and it made it better but this time I don't know what happened. So this time he replaced my timing belt, O2 Sensor, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Valve cover seals, and just cleaned around the new parts. He said it was very dirty and gross in side my block and other placed. When I got it back from him I drove it around and it felt REALLY sluggish. Its a standard. Normally it would jolt forward because it had a quick acceleration and I learned to control it well but now it has a fixes slow start no matter how hard or far I push down on the gas? Its a lot easier and smoother to change gears because before I would seem my passengers jerk when I changed gears but I did see them do it this time. I have a feeling it's my O2 Sensor. It felt like a sport car before and now it feels like it drives like I'm a old nerves lady.
View 11 Replies
I am having trouble with my car hesitating when it sits between 1600 and 2000 rpm. My car does a rapid shake that is felt throughout the car. It lasts for 2 seconds and then disappears. It has been happening for a month now and it seems to be increasing in frequency. My husband doesn't believe it is a major problem and that it can wait.
View 2 Replies
1991 Honda Civic, automatic transmission, the car/steering wheel shake badly when the car stops at the red light. It only happens when brake pedal is pressed AND in D gear. If shift from D to N, the shake disappears. As soon as the traffic light turns green and the car starts to accelerate, the shake disappears. Four spark plugs were replaced, no effect at all.
View 13 Replies
