Honda - Fit :: 2008 - Stalls When Cold / Operator Error
Feb 26, 2013
I own a 2008 Honda Fit 5sp manual with 95,000 miles and have had noticed that the car will stall in cold weather. When stopping, I push the clutch in and take my foot off the gas to apply the brake. When the car stops the rpms go to zero and the car stalls. It has no problem starting again but will do this consistently until the engine is hot. It has also stalled on particularly cold/rainy days while the car is moving (over 30mph).
I can prevent the car from stalling by revving the engine, but I would need a third foot to do this while stopping. The check engine light is off. I took it to the dealer who has not been able to reproduce the problem and says it's operator error that is causing the engine to stall.
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I have the error code P0340 and have changed both camshaft positioner sensors, cleaned the air sensor and throttle body and still the engine stalls. I can accelerate at 40, 50, 60mph and it jerks violently. I tried the "locking it in third" trick but it still jerks. Today I unplugged the left cam sensor and the truck idles @ 400rpms, does not stall, and pretty much drives great! Hook it back up and crank it, within 10-15 seconds it stalls. I plan to check the wiring....
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My 2000 Honda CRV starts when cold, however I must continue to give it gas and it will die when I shift into Reverse or Drive. If I rev the engine, I can keep it running and it will run OK once warmed up. When I get it going, the engine will stall if I attempt to let it idle. All problems resolve themselves once the engine is warm. Several mechanics have seen the problem, but cannot determine a solution other than to let the engine warm up. I live in Boston and the combination of having to work my way out of a parking space and the enginge continously stalling when I shift into R or D is making life difficult?
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My cars been stalling , won't drive up hills can't really get over 25 - 30 mph and I'm getting a sound from the fan in the back. These 3 error codes could mean for my 2007 Toyota prius
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I have a 1999 B4000 V6 4.0L with 78K miles on it. I recently had P0171 and P0174 error codes come up. I replaced the MAF sensor and have not had the codes return but now the truck will basically stalls out when sitting at a stop light. It does not do it all the time just randomly. It has never done it when engine is cool but only once up to temp. The idle is smooth at cold engine but begins to get rougher once warmed up (nothing too bad just noticeable). I cleaned the IAC with MAF cleaner but no joy. I reseated all plug cables at the coil but no change. RPM around 600-700 then fluctuates up a bit then truck will stall quickly( I usually cannot put other foot on gas in time to get it to increase RPM before it dies)....
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I've replaced the ignition coilI've replaced the fuel pumpI've replaced the main relayI don't have air conditioningIf it's 80 degrees or hotter, it will stall after a few minutes of drivingIt doesn't smell like rotten eggs, so the catalytic convertor is goodWhen I try to start it up right after it stalls, it starts up for a second, then shuts back downIt starts back up in a couple minutes
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car stalls out while driving, seems like the whole system shuts down lights stay on. Put diagnostics on it.Took to garage, couldn't find the problem. New plugs, checked distributer, all ok.
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I have a 2000 honda v7 coupe and recently I've been having problems starting it. Generally when I drive to work in the morning it's fine. However if I am running errands and make many stops then it isn't. After stopping at one place I start my car like usual, then the RPMs rise, the car rumble, and then it stops. However if i pump the gas then it is fine. When I am driving then I have no issues and the car runs smoothly. I recently had a major maintenance and also told them about this problem. They said that they couldn't diagnose it since I didn't bring it in with the problem.
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My 96 civic stalls when i put in drive sometimes, problem comes go's, was told tps sensor or trans control solenoid ?
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I have a '95 bmw 325i. After leaving overnight, as the weather gets cooler (live in PA) on startup I get an EEP-2 error across my dash and none of my dash electronics work. My speedometer dial works only. It seems as the weather or the car warms up, upon restart all functions return. Needless to say it never works in winter but I drive it rarly then anyway. My local dealer wants $130 just to put on diagnostics machine then start charging or replacing my dash. Dash was replaced by that dealer 10K miles ago by previous owner. Dealer says (on phone message) he doesn't know what the error means. I used to write diagnostic code for jets and know somebody wrote that code for some error. That it works fine when warm and dry (kind of like me) makes me think a capacitor or relay is sticking (like every other contact has in this car). The internet crowd hasn't cracked it and most others have ended up spending $1000 or more to replace.
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My 06 trailblazer started having issues when the weather was below 30 degrees at night. The following morning when I start it, it starts up and idles for about 5 to 10 seconds and then shuts off. Turn the key again and nothing, just dashboard lights come on. Wait a few minutes and try again.. Fires up, shuts off. If it's above 30 degrees but less then 45 to 50 outside I can use a lighter and hear up the key, put it back in the ignition and fire it up. Sometimes it takes 3 or 3 tries of reheating the key but then it will stay running.
As long as I run the heat and keep the inside warm it stays running, if the inside gets cold it will shut off again while your driving. If it's below 30 degrees outside the key trick won't work no matter how many times you try. If the temperature outside is above 50 it will fire up and drive all day without any hesitation. My husband replaced the ignition switch, alternator and battery and none worked. It's now been at the shop for 2 weeks and still can't get it figured out. The shop has tried heating up just the computer while it's out in the cold and it fires up and stays running but if he leaves the doors open and the inside gets cold it shuts off again.
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I have an 89 Volvo 244 DL series. I have had a complete tune-up, and oil change just recently. Battery works great, plenty of voltage, even had the fuel injection cleaned out.
Problem is the car starts right up when it is cold, however, after driving it and let it set for an hour the car starts up slower and immediately it stalls out. I do it again and the same thing happens and then I leave my foot on the pedal to keep it running at a higher idle for a bit and then place into a gear & it goes without any hesitation. If by chance I do not leave foot on pedal and put it in whatever gear it immediately stalls out. I have driven Volvo's for years, from the 70's to what I have currently. I never had encounter anything like this and have dealt with many other issues and this one has me baffled.
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My 1989 Honda Accord LX, with 135,000 miles on it, stalls after a few minutes of driving. Then, after re-starting, it stalls before I even have a chance to put it into drive. My mechanic replaced an electric base plate gasket in the carburetor but warned me that this repair might not fix the problem. If it didn't, I probably would need to replace the carburetor -- if one could be found for a 1989 model. Well, I still have the problem. My question: Is it worth it to invest $1,500, more or less, for a carburetor for a 22-year-old car? I've been using it strictly as a second car for the last 11 or 12 years. It seems to be in good shape otherwise.
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Why my 92Honda accord lx stalls when the d4 light flashes
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I recently bought a 98 civic ex for my daily commute. I've had it for almost 3 months. Recently, it has started to stall occasionally when I come to a stop. I then have to put the car in park and turn the key to start it again. After that it seems to run fine. It has started to do this more and more frequentlyand I worry that eventually it just wont restart. I've also noticed that the idle is sometimes very low so that even when it doesn't stall it feels like it has.
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I have a 99 Honda Civic. A few months ago, while driving in my neighborhood at about 25 mph, the car just stalled out and died. Within a minute, it started up again and was fine. My mechanic has checked it out a few times and found nothing. It's been totally fine and just did it again today. I leave tomorrow for a trip and am a little concerned about taking it on the road.
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I have a 97 Honda Civic Manual transmission and my Check Engine Light Came On. The error code is P0135 which shows up as needing a O2 sensor. My question is:
1. Do I need to replace it?
2. How long do I have to replace it?
3. Will driving with it as it hurt my car?
The weather is getting colder and I read that could be the cause. I really don't have much extra money but I don't want to kill the car. I have kept up on Oil Changes with MaxLife Full Synthetic, Radiator Flush, etc if that matters. I also went into Valoviline Instant Oil Change and they double checked all of the fluid levels and that was OK.
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I have a 2003 Jetta. It runs great until it just stalls out with no warning. There doesn't seem to be any particular thing I do to make it stall. I could be accelerating onto the highway, just driving down a residential street, moving along at 60 mph, or just starting out of the parking lot. It happens when it is cold and when it is hot. It could happen twice in one day and then not for two weeks. I have taken it to the dealer, a VW specialist, an excellent auto electric specialist, and the local mechanic. No one can figure it out. I have so far replaced the fuel pump, ignition wires, distributor, several engine sensors, complete tune-up, all filters, battery, and some misc wires and hoses. All told, I have spent over $3000. replacing stuff and trying to cure this car's ills. The dealer could not get it to duplicate the stalling. No codes have shown up at the VW dealer, the local guy, and Autozone. The auto electric guy drove it over 100 miles on one week with no problem, then it stalled on him. He immediately hooked it up to the diagnostic machine....and no codes! He was perplexed.
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I have a question about my 2000 Ford Focus. It has problems in the cold. When the air temperature is below -5 or so, after driving a short while (before the engine is up to temperature) if you come to a stop and the the engine go to idle it will stall. It does this while the car is still in motion (as it is a manual) and you aren't in gear coming to a stop light.
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2004 civic ex with over 300,000 miles
For last 5 months or so, I have to keep full tank of gas. If the tank is half, the car starts stalling, and the first sign of it is when I am taking a sharp right turn on highway exit. It's like the engine dies for a second or two and comes back when the right turn is over. If I keep driving and the tanks get lower, it will happen even without the right turn. I just fill up the tank and the problem is fixed.
Check engine light is on sometimes (but not always) with these codes P0171B and P0497, but I am not sure it's related.
There is sometime also a short delay in starting the car, irrelevant if the tank is full, (a second or two of extra cranking) but that might be a different issue too.
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I have a 4cl- 2000 Honda Accord about 160,000 miles on it. I have been having a shaking problem with my engine when it starts up after warm. If I drive more then 20 minutes, stop my car, to say go run an errand, and then come back and turn it on, it shakes and sometimes stalls out. I notice that the RPMs don't go above 1000 and waiver below that. When I do get it going, I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it to regulate. On longer drives after I stop it, it won't start and have to leave it sit for about 20 min. and then get it started by tapping the gas.
The check engine light that did come on has been checked as a cylinder 2 misfire. Sometimes it will flash and sometimes it will not come on.
I have new wires and spark plugs. A 3 year old timing belt. No vacuum leaks or gas line leaks. (all been checked by a mechanic).
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