Honda - Fit :: 2008 - Stalling / Hesitating When Accelerating From A Stop
Dec 31, 2012
My 2008 Honda Fit has been developing a problem for the last 6 months or so and each time I've taken it to the dealership they say there's nothing wrong. It started with the car hesitating when accelerating from a stop. This only happened if the car had been sitting for a while and it only really happened if you hit a full stop before the car had a chance to warm up, even then, it probably only happened maybe 1 out of every 10 stops.
Recently, the car has started struggling when coming to a full stop (again usually the first stop after the car has been sitting) and the car will stall out unless you give it some gas. This seems to be worse if it is cold outside (which it is now permanently cold outside) and when the car is on an incline (front higher than the back).
I took it to the dealership (because it is still under warranty) and they said the engine isn't showing any codes and the fuel pressure is fine (of course that didn't stop them from trying to sell me a new battery). However, I am concerned that this is only going to get worse and its not really acceptable for it to be stalling out regardless.
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I have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
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I have a 2000 Expedition that hesitates and sometimes stalls when taking off from a dead stop. The problem is not consistent and therefore hard to diagnose. I have had it to the dealership and two other mechanics and none of them have been able to fix the problem. So far they have replaced the intake gasket, fuel filter, EGR and PCV valves and have changed the PFE sensor and connecting lines. It seems they are just throwing parts at the problem and haven't a clue what is wrong. There are no error codes in the computer.
So far I have spent around $1,500 on this problem and it is not any better from when I started and it might actually be a little worse. I seem to think the problem is in the fuel system and not electrical because all lights and gauges function normally when the problem happens. I can also sometimes produce the hesitation by shifting the transmission into second gear while going around 50 mph then giving it a good bit of throttle after the engine revs. What could be going on.
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It's not that it won't start, but it accelerates like crap when it gets "cold" out. What do I mean by "cold"? Apparently 60F or less. During May and June my van worked great. Now, just with a bit of nip in the air, she doesn't drive the same.
Symptoms:- When in Drive, the van lurches while idling.- Accelerating from a stop is VERY slow and risks stalling every so often. I could literally floor the accelerator and she'll go a couple MPH.- Between 1 and 45MPH the van will occasionally buck. Meaning the acceleration will either dip or spike so the drive isn't "smooth".- If it's real cold, when accelerating from a stop (or rolling stop) something goes "pop", almost like a mini-backfire.
Van is a Dodge Ram Van B250 1988. V8
During May and June she drove like a dream (well, as much as a 1988 Van that probably needs some extra care). I missed the smooth driving. And come Winter I know I'm it's going to take the van forever to get up to 50MPH on the highway.
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So my 2004 honda civic LX with 165k miles has had some battery issues, or so it seems. While driving the car has been "shutting down", headlights fail, dash lights fail, radio sound goes off, and sometimes the car stalls. Typically this is happening when in stop and go traffic. The battery light on the dash comes on and off during these moments of failure. These issues started a few months ago when the dash maintenance light came on. I brought the car to a mechanic to see if he knew the issue. We decided to test the alternator and it was fine but we replaced it anyway. The issue went away until recently when the maintenance light came on again and seems the problem is worsening this time around.
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2002 Honda Accord, 4 cyl., will stall unexpectedly when coming to a stop or slowing down. It will start to shake and hesitate as one is slowing down from 35+ mph, then will stall at the stop. Has some trouble restarting, but when it does, everything seems to be fine. No codes are left, and my mechanic suspects dirt or something similar is contacting the fuel injector(s) on a sporadic basis. I did replace the spark plugs as they were due at the time this first showed up, but it has happened twice since in a 3 month period.
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My 2005 Honda CRV (92,000 miles) recently started shuddering when accelerating from a stop. I took it in to have the front struts replaced (back were done about a year ago) and get it aligned. Was told I needed a new CV axel. All that got changed, but shudder wasn't better. Took it back & was told steering was loose (car was pulling to the right after the alignment) and all was good. Not the case.
Took it back and was told I needed the other front CV axel replaced. Still not better. Had all 4 tires replaced (it was time). Still not better. As a side note (might be relevant...I don't know) my transmission had to be completely replaced/overhauled in Dec 2014. Was told someone had put in the wrong transmission fluid and there were metal shavings throughout. So in just over 6 months I've put close to $5000 into my ten year old, paid off car (nothing but normal maintenance until now).
Why it is still shuddering/vibrating? Reading on here, I'm supposed to make sure the wheel lug nuts are tight, but anything else I can check? Again, don't know if this might be relevant, but the car spent its first five years in a cold climate (Germany) and has since been in South Florida.
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I've had a 2007 Honda Fit with around $130K for a year. Car performs ok but a recent problem started that I'm not sure about.
When accelerating after a full stop, sometimes it makes a sound like tires squealing and sometimes a thump. I notice it happens when I accelerate normally; if I do it gently it doesn't (but since I'm a former native New Yorker, "gentle" is not in my vocabulary). The squealing is not coming from my tires but from my engine. The thump happens only occasionally. And none of it happens when I'm driving; only when I start after a full stop.
Otherwise, acceleration and braking is no problem whatsoever. It may or may not be relevant, but this problem started only after I got the car professionally washed.
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I got the car last fall so I don't know too much of the history. I will list the symptoms the best I can.-goes through about a quart of oil every 300 miles, looks to mostly come out the exhaust-seems to really blow smoke when the vtec activates-as the weather has gotten colder, it has been idling erratically until it warms up.-check engine light went on today-when accelerating from stop engine stutters briefly (this started when light came on)-warm idle speed now seems to be over 1000 rpm....
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I am going to buy a cheap 2004 CRV from work. They think it needs a wheel bearing, and it might.. However I think the sounds we are hearing is a bad motor mount. When accelerating from a dead stop it makes an odd noise that sounds like a wheel bearing, but it is quiet at speed and while jerking the wheel.. There is no weerrweerwerrr... In Drive if you have your foot on the brake, and hit the gas the motor rocks back further than I think it should. After looking at the mounts themselves though, the only one that looks bad is the driver’s side trans mount (near the air box). It looks like the rubber is broken.. So If that is my bad mount would the motor still rock, or could I have another bad one somewhere??
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I replaced the water pump, power steering pressure hose and pump, and fuel filter. I degreased the engine at a car wash and rinsed with the power hose. Now when I drive it chugs/hesitating from stop to accelerate. I took it to a shop who hooked it up to the machine MAF & map sensors working correctly but the computer is not controlling them. What can I do?
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I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
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So i have a 2005 Sonata GLS and it has been giving me issues. A week or so ago, the 'check engine' came on so I took it to the shop to have it fix. Problem fix, no more light popping up. Now two days ago, the car all of a sudden started stalling and hesitating while I was driving. I kept pressing the gas and the car will accelerate to 40 before slowing down to 20 and the acceleration will then drop as well. I had a mechanic look at the issue and he said it was the throttle position sensor. He changed the sensor and its still acting up. He said to buy the carburetor cleaner and it worked fine for a hour until we drove it again. The problem is still not fix.
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2006 4.6l / Stalls at stop signs, red lights, and slow turns. My truck has been doing this for 3 years. Throws a code for crank position sensor, also will say unexpected low idle which would explain why so many of us have low oil pressure while this is happening. So after years of worrying and reading these forums and stalling at stop signs I take to the shop. And it was the throttle body needed cleaned. No more problems. Runs like a new one. I have used Lucas fuel treatment for years in this truck. Im a big fan of their products. When this problem began I was adding Lucas with every tank of fuel.
I buy it by the gallon jug. I used some Lucas from this same jug on the wifeys Denali and her truck stalled out once or twice. She wouldn't ever let me add any to her gas again lol, I argued with her that it wasn't because of the Lucas additive. Never the less it never stalled again. Maybe I got a bad batch, maybe I used too much, or maybe it had nothing to do with the additive. But I thought it needed to be mentioned since it is supposed to be a cleaner, and since I carried it in my tool box and added it to almost every tank of fuel. I was adding about 7 ounces per tank. Who knows? But the problem with this truck is that the throttle body did need cleaned.
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2008 F150 5.4L. So today I was sitting at a stop light and Idk why but I just sawed the wheel a little left and a little right and my RPMs fell off. My idle is set around 600rpm and when I turned the wheel it started shuddering really hard and RPMS fell down to about 300RPM. Once I give it the gas it goes away completely....I got it back to my house and it has continued to do the same thing. The engine shudders really bad and the only thing that will sraighten it up is the throttle. Power steering fluid is full.
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2003 NISSAN Xterra
Problem started a couple of days ago. While driving the car normally it suddenly stopped. I was able to restart it but it turned off again 60 seconds later. This has gone on with the engine running from 10 minutes to 10 seconds. The battery terminals and all cables are clean. Distributor cap and rotors have been cleaned. Fuel pump replaced last night. I still get the problem. Error codes listed were: P0328 - Pre Detonation (knock sensor) Bank 1 causes could be restricted fuel - over temp engine. Now this error has been coming up for five years and I've replaced the sensor numerous times. P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect RatioP0102 - Mass Air Flow Low InputP1148 - Closed Loop Control Function, BANK 1P0420 - Catalytic Convertor, BANK 1P0134 - O2 Sensor No Activity, BANK 1
Regarding Fuel Starvation - NOPE, Engine Too Hot (it wasn't), Second Gear Not Within Ratio (never had gear problems), Knock Sensor and most error codes have been related to bank one. Error codes on car computer were erased and engine is still hesitating slightly and stopping. Just checked Mass Airflow Sensor and it looks clean.
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I've been living with a mild "clunk" or "bump" in the drive train when I would first begin to accelerate from a full complete stop. It would only happen after a complete stop. It almost felt like it could be normal, but it seemed to be getting worse over time.
At first I thought it was my transmission...but after some internet searching I found some threads talking about the slip yoke on the drive shaft being the cause. In that the slip yoke needs to be pulled apart and re-lubed.
Anyway, I thought I'd post and let eveyone know that after pulling the slip yoke and re-lubing with grease my issue is solved! The "clunk" is totally gone. 100% Smooth now. If has this issue I'd highly recommend re-lubing the slip yoke.
[URL]
On my 2004 F-150 SuperCrew, all I needed to do was remove the drive shaft at the rear differential (4 bolts, use 12mm 12 point socket or wrench). Then remove the FRONT clamp on the slip yoke boot. Then slide out the rear 1/2 of the drive shaft. Be sure to mark the drive shaft orientation with the rear differential flange and the slip yoke before you remove the drive shaft to ensure you put it back together correctly.
Re-lube the slip yoke, then slide it back together and reinstall the four bolts at the rear differential. Torque spec is 76 ft-lbs. I used Valvoline FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY moly grease that I purchased at my local AutoZone. You'll also need to install a new band clamp around the rubber slip yoke boot. I got mine from AutoZone.
Here are some links I found with pictures showing how to do this. Both procedures below are on SuperDuties but its basically the same procedure. Just follow my specific details above for the 2004-2008 F-150
Slip joint regreasing
2004 F250 Slip Yoke Service
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Recently, my truck has started rolling back from a stop when accelerating. There seems to be a hesitation between when I depress the throttle and the transmission engaging. It doesn't clunk, just delays. Been doing it for a few weeks, but is now getting worse. Today, the symptoms are similar but more pronounced. When driving there doesn't seem to be an issue, just moving out from a stop.
Checked the fluid idling in park, level was good, fluid looks great, was changed by a shop 6 months ago. Is my 319,000km trans on its way out?
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I have a 2005 Durango. Started stalling out only a few days after I bought it (June 2010). Replaced EGR valve. Throttle body service. Back to the dealer several more times--couldn't find problem. Stalling, revving, hard shifting, hesitating, lack of power progressively worsened. Transmission rebuilt in Jan 2012, bell housing leak and repair in June 2012, torque converter clutch, water pump, idler pully, fuel injector, coil, vacuum sensor, air intake sensor, knock sensor, PCV valve, plugs and wires, and probably a few others I can't recall all addressed at one point or another. Continues to stall (often at shift changes, and at any speed from start up to 40 MPH), revs in park and at a stops, hesitates, hard/ delayed shifting, and doesn't like wet conditions. Am at a loss for a solution at this point and vehicle is just danged dangerous to drive as it stalls at the most inopportune times!!
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I recently bought a 2005 F150 King Ranch. I had a 900km drive to get it home but only mad it half way and am now stuck. I was stalling every time I came to a stop and eventually lost oil pressure. This is when I stopped driving and took it in. The shop said it had a knock in the lower end and stopped diagnosing it there. I can now sell it for parts and take a big hit or I can try and patch it myself.
I am assuming based on my symptoms it is a spun rod/main/thrust bearing. The mechanic was not very supportive to narrow it down to anything other than replace the motor.
How many km might I get out of this engine if I pull the motor and replace only the crank and rod/main/thrust bearings. This will not be my daily driver so if I can get another 50000-100000 km off of that, then it will last me at least 5 years.
This is of course assuming that when pull it apart I do not find an other major problems such as bent or broken pistons and rods or scoured cylinder walls. I am not that experienced of a mechanic, so I am not that confident about pulling the heads off and rebuilding the whole thing.
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Honda civic 2008 and I notice that while I accelerate the car at the first time I hear the heavy engine sound while comparing to the other carall the oils have been changed recently.
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