Honda - Fit :: 2008 - Clutch Suddenly Started Slipping
Feb 22, 2011
My son bought a 2008 Fit new. At about 16K miles, the clutch suddenly started slipping. He barely made it to a dealer and it was replaced at no charge. Recently, the clutch suddenly started slipping again at ~32K miles. Before you say he's hard on a clutch, he drive a 95 Civic with no clutch troubles for over 140K before selling it to buy the Fit. He took the Fit to another dealer (he's in a different state now) and was told the clutch is OK, they drained some fluid out. Would excess fluid cause a problem -- after 16K miles?
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I have a 2002 Camry i4 with 158k miles. The transmission on it suddenly started slipping one day last week. My wife drove it in the morning and came back to say it was slipping and lurching a bit. I drove it in the afternoon around the block a few times to check it out, all normal. In the evening, wife took it out again and it dies 3 miles out. When I showed up, I was able to get it crawling at 5-10mph, but the engine was at near redline. So definitely slipping. Got it towed back home. The next morning, I back it out of the driveway and then up the driveway again just to see, and it seems fine.
This leads me to believe the issues is only when the transmission is warm. Transmission fluid is at a normal level. Dark red and smells bad, so due for a change. Is it too late to save the transmission?
Over the weekend, I drained and filled the transmission fluid with new T-IV (not a complete flush) to see. Drove it around the block a few times and no slipping, but I can hear a faint hum/whine, similar to when in reverse gear but softer. I can't say for sure if anything improved, I would have to drive it til warm to reproduce last week's conditions. I was too nervous that it'll die completely again and I'd have to push it home. The hum was enough for me to say, yes something is still wrong.
I called local mechanics to get quotes and advice. The ones that work on transmissions say a rebuild is required at a cost of $2000. Others say replace the transmission with used (new would be too expensive). Waiting for quotes on that. One guy suggested that the transmission computer would've failed to cause transmission to fail, so rebuild of both the computer and transmission is necessary. Does that make sense? Seems questionable to me.
What indication is it that the transmission would only slip when warm? Is rebuild or new transmission really my only option?
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Well the clutch started slipping finally, not sure if it was the weather change on the drive from here to PA but I slip 5 and 6th wot 4-5k rpms. Have some coin set away because I knew it was going to happen sooner or later did some searching and I'm curious to here the verdict on the RSR clutch how many miles and how its holding up as well as whatever else you are running. Will probably keep the car 2+ for quite a while so not really worried about 3+ power.
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I'm a new owner of a 04 gti 1.8t. The car has been modified with a ko5 turbo @ 20psi, apr tune, 3" turbo back exhaust, hks bov, and a FMIC. The car is amazing, but with my luck after only a few days of owning the car the clutch started slipping.
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I have a 2012 gti with a short ram intake, downpipe, and apr stage 1+ tune. I got the tune first and, as expected apparently, the clutch started slipping at lower rpm when I start to get on it. I'm ready to do my clutch. That being said, would it be in my best interest to change the flywheel or can I run the stock DM flywheel?
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Three weeks ago: clutch started slipping
Two weeks ago: pulled the glovebox handle off just by opening it
Yesterday: curbed one of my barely 4 months since fresh powdercoat BBS RC's
And I've been developing a lovely "What the ark is getting ready to fall off in the front suspension?!" noise for the past few weeks, too.
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it's a 2000 honda civic EX. I pulled into a parking spot and slowed down, then decided to speed back up and when I accelerated it was like the car was in neutral. No gear would drive. Turned off the engine and re started and it shifted and did fine then about a 1/4 mile down the road the same thing happened. It just switched into neutral. The transmission fluid is full and clean and the filter has been changed. There was no warning signs at all.
The only caveat I can think of is last week at 15 mph my front passenger wheel fell off after someone replaced a tire. I traveled less than 10 feet on the wheel. But didn't think the transmission would be low enough to hit the ground.
At first I thought transmission clutch but it would be doing it in one direction? Then I thought maybe a pump? Or could it be a sensor or the torque converter.
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Having problem with 5R110W direct clutch. My nephew had his 2005 SD f 250 6.0 be told that 5R110W direct clutch problems. He was towing a trailer in tow mode and it started slipping in and out, so he took it to a dealer and they said that it was the direct clutch that was causing the problem and needed to be rebuilt, he only has 40000 miles on it but they said that it is out of warranty. What do you guys think that he should do?
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I'll start out by stating that I failed to get new transmission fluid, which definitely caused the issue. So let's go back to December 26th. Check engine light came on, and I assumed it was for the oil (which has never happened before, suspicious). So I changed the oil, and took it for a test spin. Well, a mile later, I was going up a hill, and the clutch started slipping. Yes, I know, it's an auto, but I know the feeling of a clutch slipping... no power, engine revving up, jolting forward when slip stops. At this point, I drive it home without much incident, a few slips and I part it but don't drive it again. Checked the engine, and transmission fluid was out. Filled it back up, seemed to take care of the problem of slipping, but now there's a new problem...
The new problem is the following. Every once in a while, going uphill or applying full power in first gear, the clutch will slip. Also, this happens 99% of the time, first gear to second gear is a bit of a jolt, not much more than normal, but it's noticeable. And the transmission is kind of loud too, first gear sometimes sounds like there's a marble in there. Is this a rebuild? Will it work itself out?
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The reverse gear in my F150 has started slipping all of a sudden, with no noise or notice. All forwards gears are functioning properly. If I rev up the motor in reverse it seems like it wants to go, but I get the wrench light/safe mode and it now has a P0720 code. I've done some research and replaced the Output Speed Sensor and replaced the tansmission fuild and filter. I cleared the codes once before I changed the sensor, and now my reader indicated the the P0720 is "Pending". Do I have to keep trying to use reverse? Drive it more? Plus it looked like after driving it today that I might have overfilled the transmission.
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My transmission has started slipping as car shifts into 2 and sometimes 3rd gear. It races and is not engaged, so there is no power for the few seconds (sometimes longer) when this happens. Car has about 216,000 miles - and it's time to also replace tires. As I look at the estimated bill, I'm having to decide if it's still a good investment to do the work on the car. I love the car and there is no rust or other problems.
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We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
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I have a 2003 pilot with 182k miles on it. Just started having tranny slippage after a tranny code and burnt fluid. Changed it and did this for like the next 3000 miles. It began to start slipping between 2,3 so did a complete flush with new fluid and still same problem. Question is should I pursue the new tranny with upgrades or just look for another vehicle.
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I'm the original owner of a 2008 Honda Fit Sport, Manual Transmission it has 134k miles original clutch. It feels like the transmission is slipping between 2,000 and 2,5000 RPM in 3rd,4th, and 5th gear. If I set it on cruise control with the RPM's between 2k~2.5k the car runs smooth and normal, but if I disengage the cruise control and accelerate, the transmission feels like it's slipping between 2k~2.5k RPM. Once it goes above 2,500 RPM the car accelerates normally.
So is this the transmission, the clutch or the engine? The car has been running fine and it suddenly started doing on Friday, my initial thought was that it needed a new clutch, however, the clutch is engaging fine and the feel that the transmission is slipping only occurs in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear between 2k ~ 2.5k RPM
If the transmission is bad, how much does it cost to repair?
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My 2008 Honda Accord started burning oil at the rate of 1 quart per 2000 miles. It currently has 48,000 miles on it. The dealer told me that this is within Honda's specifications. Honda won't do any warranty work unless it is burning oil at the rate of 1 quart every 1,000 miles. The dealer service person told me that if I use their oil and filters - get my oil changes there at the dealership - it will burn much less oil. Question - if they are using some sort of high mileage oil, and it does indeed burn less oil, is this problem considered fixed? Should I hold out for some engine work before the warranty runs out? How should I approach this?
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So I am getting really sick of my 02 Prius...it only has 124k miles on it. So what is happening now is that I'll be driving when all of a sudden the car slips into a neutral mode. The engine revs when I hit the accelerator but produces no power. So I pull over, throw it in Park, turn the car off, and when I restart, it is back to normal.
These are the codes I'm getting...I know this slippage is only one of my problems..
p1437
p3191
p3006
p3011
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I just had a new clutch installed yesterday. Bully stg3 with flywheel. My 2012 R has 22k. I had to change it since my stock clutch was slipping at 3000rpm with the Unitronic stg1+.
The second I start the car and stay on neutral, give a little gas I hear a super loud grinding noise. It stop when I press the clutch. On idle I don`t hear nothing and when I drive everything is fine until I release the clutch and when I don`t press the gas.
The shop said they never heard anything that loud and they confirm that everything was installed correctly. Other then the noise the clutch is fine and works very well.
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So i have a 05 1.8t gti... just bought it about 3 months ago and it has a stage 2 south bend clutch... the car has only 68k on it and the clutch is slipping already... it was driving fine then about a week ago all hell broke loose and it's slipping bad... now for my question what performance clutch is recommended? I have a giac tune and its pushing about 21 boost... . would a 2.0 performance clutch work on the 1.8t?..
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My wife was driving my Stage 1 R last night (by herself) and she ran into an issue where when she tried to leave from a red light, the clutch was slipping through the first three gears and she could barely get up any speed. She pulled over, let the car sit for a few minutes and then started going again with no issues.
She drove home about 5 miles and told me about what happened. The car smelled like burning clutch, but when I took it out for a quick test drive, everything seemed fine.
I am at around 5000 miles and have never had any issues before and I don't ever do high-rpm launches. So, could this have been a fluke or a sign of the clutch/pressure plate issues people have been having?
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Well I was hoping it was just a fluke the one time it slipped about a month ago, but my clutch is now officially toast. If I'm between 3-4k RPM and punch it in just about any gear I'm getting slip. Trying to pass a car on the highway, and I'm getting slip. I do not launch my car, I simply like to play in the 3-4k rpm powerband as I love the torque. Apparently spirited driving while remaining in the peak torque range of the engine will kill the stock clutch. God only knows how long the OEM clutches will last with people that drive their R like a racekar... 3200 Miles, Stage 1+ ....
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I have an issue that I thought was a slipping clutch, but my dealer says it isn't. If I'm cruising at highway speed (stg1 gti)say around 65 and I get on to pass the revs will surge, but there will be no apparent acceleration to go with it. The dealer said it isn't the clutch because there is a standard test they do where it would be jerky in 2nd. Could this be a DV or something?
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