Honda - Fit :: 2007 - Bump And Squeal When Accelerating After Full Stop
Jun 17, 2015
I've had a 2007 Honda Fit with around $130K for a year. Car performs ok but a recent problem started that I'm not sure about.
When accelerating after a full stop, sometimes it makes a sound like tires squealing and sometimes a thump. I notice it happens when I accelerate normally; if I do it gently it doesn't (but since I'm a former native New Yorker, "gentle" is not in my vocabulary). The squealing is not coming from my tires but from my engine. The thump happens only occasionally. And none of it happens when I'm driving; only when I start after a full stop.
Otherwise, acceleration and braking is no problem whatsoever. It may or may not be relevant, but this problem started only after I got the car professionally washed.
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When I accelerate from full stop with 3/4 throttle when car gets to 60-70 mph it stops accelerating for 1 or 2 sec, there is is also a little jerk. After that it continues to accelerate normally. The problem is not present if for instance we drive 30 mph and then use 3/4 or full throttle. I talked to dealer and they said there might be a little jerk but nothing more, and it might be solved by software update. In my opinion its definitely not a slightly jerk, car completely stops to accelerate for a moment. Car has about 45 k miles so its almost like new.
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My wife just handed me her 2001 BMW X5(165,000 miles...new engine at 97,000) because they offered only $2000 on a trade-in. It still looks great - better than my Tundra with numerous whiskey blisters delivered by misbehaving cows. The Beemer tires are in good shape BUT the car has developed a loud knocking noise in rear end when you accelerate from a full stop (scares the heck out of you because it sounds like the backend is going to fall off). If you accelerate slowly it doesn't always knock, but other drivers try to run over you. Just had the air levelers repaired. My local mechanic thinks it is the drive shaft but not sure and won't touch it until something breaks or falls off. My question is - if it is the drive shaft and it falls off while driving - is this going to be a dangerous problem? Our mechanic doesn't seem too concerned and just doesn't want to tear it apart to check the noise. If possible (financially) I would like to repair it but will have to drive it to a bigger town to have it done. Or should we just throw in the towel and donate it to NPR?
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When accelerating from a dead stop I can feel a small bump/jolt coming from the rear. It only happens when you move from a dead stop. Its not a shift. Its more noticeable this week.
If I lock the AWD it does not do it. But when I turn off the AWD lock (at 20 -30 kms/hr) I can feel the bump - as if the driveshaft is disengaging.
Its a 2010 3.5 V6 AWD. 115,000 kms on the odometer. I had the viscous coupler replaced last Oct under warranty. I'm taking it in for an oil change and brake job next week.
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My 2005 Honda CRV (92,000 miles) recently started shuddering when accelerating from a stop. I took it in to have the front struts replaced (back were done about a year ago) and get it aligned. Was told I needed a new CV axel. All that got changed, but shudder wasn't better. Took it back & was told steering was loose (car was pulling to the right after the alignment) and all was good. Not the case.
Took it back and was told I needed the other front CV axel replaced. Still not better. Had all 4 tires replaced (it was time). Still not better. As a side note (might be relevant...I don't know) my transmission had to be completely replaced/overhauled in Dec 2014. Was told someone had put in the wrong transmission fluid and there were metal shavings throughout. So in just over 6 months I've put close to $5000 into my ten year old, paid off car (nothing but normal maintenance until now).
Why it is still shuddering/vibrating? Reading on here, I'm supposed to make sure the wheel lug nuts are tight, but anything else I can check? Again, don't know if this might be relevant, but the car spent its first five years in a cold climate (Germany) and has since been in South Florida.
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My 2008 Honda Fit has been developing a problem for the last 6 months or so and each time I've taken it to the dealership they say there's nothing wrong. It started with the car hesitating when accelerating from a stop. This only happened if the car had been sitting for a while and it only really happened if you hit a full stop before the car had a chance to warm up, even then, it probably only happened maybe 1 out of every 10 stops.
Recently, the car has started struggling when coming to a full stop (again usually the first stop after the car has been sitting) and the car will stall out unless you give it some gas. This seems to be worse if it is cold outside (which it is now permanently cold outside) and when the car is on an incline (front higher than the back).
I took it to the dealership (because it is still under warranty) and they said the engine isn't showing any codes and the fuel pressure is fine (of course that didn't stop them from trying to sell me a new battery). However, I am concerned that this is only going to get worse and its not really acceptable for it to be stalling out regardless.
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I got the car last fall so I don't know too much of the history. I will list the symptoms the best I can.-goes through about a quart of oil every 300 miles, looks to mostly come out the exhaust-seems to really blow smoke when the vtec activates-as the weather has gotten colder, it has been idling erratically until it warms up.-check engine light went on today-when accelerating from stop engine stutters briefly (this started when light came on)-warm idle speed now seems to be over 1000 rpm....
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I am going to buy a cheap 2004 CRV from work. They think it needs a wheel bearing, and it might.. However I think the sounds we are hearing is a bad motor mount. When accelerating from a dead stop it makes an odd noise that sounds like a wheel bearing, but it is quiet at speed and while jerking the wheel.. There is no weerrweerwerrr... In Drive if you have your foot on the brake, and hit the gas the motor rocks back further than I think it should. After looking at the mounts themselves though, the only one that looks bad is the driver’s side trans mount (near the air box). It looks like the rubber is broken.. So If that is my bad mount would the motor still rock, or could I have another bad one somewhere??
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I have a 2007 LS 460 with about 50,000 miles. Some 18 months ago, at about 35,000 miles,right after a service, I began to experience hesitation/lack of power when accelerating from a stop. Lexus fixed this by doing a software update to the transmission.
All was well till last month, when again right after a service, the car hesitated and totally lacked power , most noticeable from a rolling stop. Revs would very gradually climb to 5,000, with foot flat on accelerator, yet car barely moving. Once speed built up to highway speeds, car reacted normally. Took it back to Park Place Lexus who held the car for 10 days and did a major job changing the cylinder head, I think per L-SB-0033-08.
A month later, the hesitation/lack of power is even worse then before! I suspect the issue is the transmission, and the big surgery on the engine done last month was not required. After nearly being hit trying to merge with traffic today, the vehicle is back at the dealership, and I took their head tech for a drive. He experienced the problem, but did not venture a solution. He told me they take instructions on what to do directly from Lexus.
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I have a 2007 Ford Fusion 4.0L AWD. One day I went to pass a slower car and accelerated rapidly, but the car responded with loss of power and shook to a stop and would not re fire. I took it to the dealership and they said two cylinders were not firing and a fuse was blown. I looked on the internet and some people said their coils go bad or plug wires. I asked the dealership if that was the cause and they said absolutely not, but it's the ECM. They replaced the ECM and 2 days later my CEL came on and I took it back to the dealership and they told me my catalytic converter was bad and I could drive it until I had the money to replace it. Then a couple days go by and I was passing a tractor on the highway, I slowed down to 45 mph to make the pass and as I began to accelerated I felt a thunk, then about a mile later it started cutting out and shaking. This time it would re fire but idle rough. I tried on/off 3 or 4 times then it idled o.k. I then took it back to the dealership and this time they said it's all 6 coils.
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I have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
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The other day I noticed that my '07 avalon was making some new noises. It's most noticeable once I get up about 15-20 mph and then very little touch the accelerator. It's sort of rotary noise that seems to be tied to the engine speed. Kind of like something rubbing that wasn't before. I also notice it when coming to a stop, foot of the accelerator, just braking the noise slows down. It seems even a bit louder when stopping.
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I have an 02 Elantra GT. I was dropping off a friend who knows cars and went to turn around, turned the wheel to full lock to make the turn and heard a squeal. I asked my friend what it was and he said it was the P/S and I just needed to add some P/S fluid. I got some fluid and sure enough when I went to fill up the reservoir it was below to MIN line, not too much below but still below it. I filled up the fluid and didn't hear the problem for the rest of the day but this morning I heard the same noise when I was leaving for work. I figured the fluid had to work its way though but am not sure if there is something else I should check or do.
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I own a 2007 Honda Civic. For the last several months, the car starts making a strange mechanical whining sound when turned on. The sound grows louder when accelerating or going in higher rpms. It also seems to get a little quieter when I turn on the air conditioning. But the soubd never goes away. Car otherwise runs perfectly fine and never fails to start. Took it to two different honda dealerships to have it looked at. One said it had something to do with the a/c, the other said the alternator might be the alternator. I tested the alternator with a voltmeter and it seems to be working just fine. However, when you open the hood, the sound seems to be coming from the alternator area.
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I have a completely stock 2007 F350 turbo diesel with 98000 miles that i just bought . When accelerating from a stop, it runs so rich that it will barely move and it accelerates very slowly . It burbles excessively and spews black smoke . It slowly builds rpm . As it builds rpm it runs slightly better and the black smoke turns into a medium gray the faster it goes . It takes around 20 seconds to reach 3000 rpm on level ground with the accelerator pedal half way down . Once it reaches 3000 rpm, it runs fine and hauls a_s but looks like it still smokes a little.
The temp gauge stays right in the middle and it does not run hot . It starts and idles fine. The check engine light is on but i have not read the codes yet and can't do that until monday. I have read that it could be an injector that is stuck open but do not know how to check for that. I am a vintage car mechanic and engineer but I know zero about newer computer vehicles and very little about diesels.
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2007 F250 SD Crew Cab Long Bed 4X4 with 6.0. Bulletproofed, leveling springs, 5k firestone airbags, upgraded brakes, new front driveshaft and new universals and carrier bearing on rear u joint.
The issue: When accelerating from a stop or a slow rolling start, turning right or left, I get a shimmy (vibration) that seems to be coming from under my feet. Not a violent shimmy, but enough to make me certain that something is loose or out of alignment in the drivetrain. IT IS NOT THE REAR END as friends have constantly told me. Rear end was serviced and cluth packs lubricated with no change in issue.
What I've done: Changed transfer case fluid, new front driveshaft, new u joints and carrier bearing on rear driveshaft. There has been no improvement after these repairs, if anything the vibration is a little worse and easier to induce.
I've been chasing this problem for over a year. Going to be pulling a Toy Hauler out west this falls and really need to repair this for my piece of mind..
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My 2006 VW Passat squeals when I let off the accelerator after the car had been running for a few minutes. If I push the accelerator again it goes away. Started after last oil change, maybe coincidental.
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Car was running fine, on the way home from work I noticed it having a loud squeal while accelerating, down shifting.
The car squealed all the way home fine, no power loss really no smoke no anything, I let the car sit for a little, warmed it up and decided to go to drive it around so I could diagnose the problem better.. While doing so now let me describe the sound.. it's like the sound when you go in reverse and back up, that winding sound.. that's what it sounded like.
Back to the story while driving to diagnose the problem more within 5 minutes it made a loud sound like an axle falling out almost on the passenger side of the engine, once I got out I could hear it more and more and looked under the car it looked wet and it looked like oil running down but also could of been something else I'm not sure.. I took a video [URL] .....
The car made it home safe and sound and parked but I don't know if my engine is done. To note I only saw one drip of oil come down while I was underneath of the car but shown in the video you can see where it looks wet was not there before I drove it.
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So lately I have noticed that my 99 F-250 has a bit of a "bump" while accelerating. Think of it as accelerating with a trailer and something is loose on the hitch, making a sort of bump or thump. I talked to the guy at the parts store and he said to put it in neutral and wiggle the driveshaft up and down, side to side.
When I did that it moved up and down, but not side to side, but I'm not sure if that's because it's just positioned that way or what. The wobble was coming from the slip yoke back by the rear diff. Is this something I should be concerned about? Also, I have an ext. cab and short box, 1 piece driveshaft.
Here's a video (a very crappy video at that), not sure if it gets enough info through or not but hopefully you kinda get how much play is in there.
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So as my first post was about all the upgrades/mods I wanted to get recommendations on, it saddens me that my second is about my check engine light.
I've noticed for the past week a little bit more of a "bump" when accelerating into gear. This Friday, coming home from work the check engine light came on. Checked the oil and gas cap, everything seems ok. I'm taking it into the dealership tomorrow and will update with their findings.
I'm worried cause I would never imagine the light to come on so soon. The car is barely two months old!
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2003 Chevy suburban, 115K miles, accelerating I hear a squeal/groan/clicking noise coming from right front of engine. Did not happen this winter, started again in spring. Loses power if stay on accelerator. If let off and then reapply, it will momentarily go away. Appears to be only when air conditioning on. Bad AC or just the pulley?
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