My 2001 S2000 is a great car, but I'm having trouble getting people to ride with me. It seems that after being driven for awhile the passenger seat gets hot. I did have my dealer check the heat shield and they said it's fine. What's causing this and how to I fix it?
View 7 Repliesafter owning my car for a week now I've noticed a few issues.
1) Passenger seat-heating doesn't work. Is this a common issue? is there an easy fix for it? I searched but didn't come up with anything. Is there a place I can check the voltage output at?
2) The bumper alignment is off, way off. I think the previous owner hit something :/ my rear bumper is totally mis aligned. Is this an easy fix? can I just take it off and re-align it myself? Or am I going to have to buy new front and rear bumpers?
3) When I drive I have a wur wur wur like described in the other recent post. I'm not sure whether the wheels are off-balance or off-round; however I'm taking the car to belle tire soon to find out.
Just want to get the car back to 100% the previous owner didn't treat her well at all. When I got the car there was so little power-steering fluid it wasn't even reaching the dip-stick and the coolant anti-freeze level was below minimum.
I have a 2007 Saturn Relay with what seems like a bad seat heating element in the lower part of the seat. Is this something that an average mechanic can change out or is it something that must be changed out by an upholstery shop?
View 2 RepliesI just took possession a few weeks ago,and I love the car. I've only had one passenger, once in the car, and yesterday, I noticed that the passenger seat belt light is continually flashing when I'm driving. If I'm in park, it's off, but when in gear, that little red light flashes non stop.
Is this normal when there isn't a passenger? I don't remember this happening before, and, I'm sure I would have noticed that annoying little beacon.
If it's wrong, how do I fix it? If it's supposed to be there ... how to I fix it?
For the last few months I noticed that there is a rattling or clicking noise that frequently comes from the front passenger seat area but only when no one is in that seat. If the seat is being weighed down by someone sitting there, there is no rattle or clicking noise. It generally occurs when I'm driving on bumpier or textured roads. It suspect that it's coming from something underneath the seat, like the lever that adjusts the seat forward and backward underneath it.
I brought the car to a local dealership and they took a look. After a few hours with them, the car was returned to me. They said they'd found that the lever that adjusts the seat forward/backward was not tightly screwed down all the way on one side, so they adjusted that to make it tight. They also found a coin on the rail underneath that seat and removed it too. However, I drove the car afterward and it is still making the noise.
I've searched this forum and already think I've ruled out the seat belt or the buckle as an issue. I put on the seat belt for the passenger seat and the noise still happens. It's really annoying when driving on a freeway!
I just bought a 2006 Lexus GS300 AWD. Bought it with 99k from a older gentleman who seemed like he took really care of the car. Gave me all type of Lexus dealership service receipts. I recently noticed that the driver side seat heating and cooling doesn't work right, passenger seat works fine. I haven't checked the fuses yet just wanted to get some opinions before getting into it.
View 2 RepliesMy rear passenger hub and wheel have been heating up much more than the others. Sometimes too hot to touch more than a second when you can basically grab on the others. I have taken the tire off, rebalanced it, made sure it and the wheel were normal, taken out the axle shaft, checked inside, regreased the bearings and replaced the inner seal. Everything looked good.
Plenty of fluid in there and the bearings looked perfect. Before I did that I checked the e brake boots to make sure they weren't eating into the rotor. They looked normal, no abnormal wear and the inside of the rotor doesn't look scored or anything. Yet after all of that, even with the mechanic from the auto skills center there with me looking at all of it, we cannot figure out why its still heating up.
I have had some issues with my 2000 Honda civic. I have had consistent issues with my car getting hot. I have changed the thermostat, temp sender, O2 sensor, spark plugs and wires, fan relay, Air filter, Oil filter and fuel filter. I have also installed a toggle switch all within the last 9-12 months. My heating issues seem to be very random, when I changed some parts out it seems to do good for a bit but then randomly heats up and fast usually when I am idling. I have had 3 mechanics look at my car to work with the replacement of parts yet even they are puzzled with the issue as the car has been very well taken car of for it's age but had so many new parts installed in such a short time. On top of that I have noticed my gas mileage drop again, I noticed this before I had changed the temp sender but it went away for some time. The MPG has had a significant drop the past while and as you can imagine does not good for the pocket book when you are consistently filling the tank and replacing parts.
View 7 RepliesMy 2005 Honda Civic has just started doling out heat when it feels like it regardless of where I set the dial. It seem that when I am accelerating or applying gas, heat is available but when I am stopped at a light or coasting downhill, cold air is all that is available. Is this a thermostat issue or something more dire?
View 1 RepliesOn my 99 accord (v4, lx) i am unable to change temperature i.e no matter whether the knob is turned to cold or hot, it stays hot. AC doesn't work. fan still works.defrost front/rear is not working.. Its like the heating/ac controls are not working.
View 8 RepliesWhen I turn on the heat, I only get hot air through the drivers side vent,the passenger side vent is very cold. I had it in to be worked on (at a Non-Toyota shop)and they tore it completely apart and could not diagnose the problem. It affects the entire system,meaning the air going to defrost is also hot on the drivers side and cold on the passenger side.
View 7 Replies2007. Blower motor not working. Replaced 2 fuses for blower motor and relay. Blower motor working. Horrible racket and steam coming from under car when I engaged car. I took the fuses back out. Air conditioner stuck on. I had to take the Compressor fuse out also. Car drives fine just have no heat/air.
View 2 Replies135 plus pound passenger with seat belt on. Was intermittent on/off with passenger but now seems always off (off light 'on' ) meaning the passenger airbag is disabled.
I know the es350 was so bad like this that there was a threat of class action. I've read the weight sensor is in the passenger seat rail and you can also do a calibration with a scan tool.
'98 Chevy Lumina. Driving at Highway speed, I hear a short rattle. Makes me think of linkages vibrating, from the passenger area. Few minutes later I hear it again. Few minutes later I look down to see me thermostat at 240+. I watch it redline, hold for a few minutes, then the rattle again and my temp goes down to 160 or so. All of this happens at 60 mph, in 45 degree weather.
Rinse, repeat about every 10-15 minutes. I notice that while the engine temp is climbing, I have no hot air from the vents and after the rattle and temp drop I do have hot air. Check the block when I get home and I see the familiar green puddles. So is this: Water pump, the apparent source of the leaks, heater core causing back pressure to leak at the hose, or the ever dreaded head gasket?
My car often backfires on downshifts. It happens as I?m decelerating in gear, and then blip the throttle to match the higher rpm of the lower gear. The car runs well and is well maintained. The spark plugs, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, and cat are all in good order. I?m confident the air/fuel mixture is working as intended by Mazda (at least under normal driving), so I?m not looking for a mechanical culprit. I?m sure it?s my style and frequency of downshift/rev matching which causes the backfires.
It happens anywhere from 1-2 times a week to 1-2 times a day depending on my driving, or on something like 2-5% of all downshifts. Personally, I rather like excitement of the backfires and the exhaust burble which accompanies them, it makes me feel like I'm in a race car. My question is whether frequent backfiring is going to drastically reduce the life of my catalytic converter and O2 sensors.
I don't mind replacing the cat 5 years from now instead of say 10, but I don?t want to have to replace it within the next 10,000 miles or less. My Miata is a 1999 model with 130,000 miles on it. The exhaust system uses stock manifold and muffler but with an AEM performance intake and monsterflow catalytic converter.
2006 Subaru Outback. It has around 121000. I bought it at 113,000 last October since my previous 1998 Subaru made it to 240,000. So far I've taken it in for all new wiring and a tune up. And I was assured by the car salesman that the timing belt had been changed prior to my purchase. Anyway, since August I've had a rattly/whirring sound that I am experiencing over 15 mph. It seems to be coming from the back of my vehicle. It sounded like I had a hole in the muffler because it was reminiscent of when I lost my muffler on the highway with my 1998 subaru a few years ago, but this sound is definitely not as loud. The sound does increase in volume at high speeds on the highway but has so far not been as loud as my previous experience. (and the muffler is still there when i look under the car)
When I took my car in to get the oil changed a couple months ago, I asked the mechanic to check and see if he saw anything while under there. They told me it was my heat shield.
Recently the noise started being a little bit louder on the highway so I thought maybe it was my tires since they were very due to be replaced. I bought new tires within the last few weeks and there has been no change with the whirring sound on the highway. Yesterday, I noticed a light thunking sound that started happening between the speeds 10-40mph. It seems to be in the front of my car and occurring with the rotation of my wheels. There are no sounds when Idle.
So my Nissan emits a loud (way louder than normal) "vroom" when I start it up and then idles back. Also, sometimes the tach needle jumps high and then falls, sometimes almost seems like the car might turn off. I have a knock sensor code on and nothing else. I was due for state inspection and the guy told me that my exhaust was warped and said that it was too loud and I will fail the inspection (I think he meant on the noise level as he did not do any diagnostics.
View 1 RepliesMy exhaust system was replaced on my 2005 Corolla in August. After driving it for just a few days, there was a shaking when the car idled. The mechanic replaced two engine mounts and the idle was much worse! He said it was ok to drive, so I started on my planned trip across the country. In Denver I took it to a mechanic at the Toyota dealer and they adjusted the throttle. It was better for a while, maybe a week and 1,000 miles. Now it is worse than ever! Having gotten two totally different causes from mechanics, I am not sure what to do next.
Also just before the exhaust sytem went, I had the 60,000 mile service done and had the car totally checked out by both Toyota, and an independent mechanic who specilizes in Japanese cars. After a car wash in California, the maintence required light came on.
What is going on?
My car have sound like motor running during I drive while i turn off the radio and I try to get where is the sound come from it seem like near driver seat, by the ways what is that sound ? it happen around 2 second only and after a while it happen again....
View 2 RepliesCan't get a solution to this nagging odor in my car. the dealership (that I do trust) claims they cannot find a gasoline leak or an exhaust system leak. The check engine light is NOT 'on' and the car runs well for a car w/ 139K on it. I notice it briefly gets worse w/ harder acceleration. I'm driving w/ the windows partially open, which is way 'too' cool to suit me. Could this be an emissions system problem not tripping a sensor for the computer?
View 4 RepliesI had an '83 Chevy Malibu Classic that slowly lost power until it was nearly undrivable. I rebuilt or replaced every fuel or spark related item I could think of. I finally had the catalytic converter and O-2 sensor replaced. It ran better, then the problem returned about 8,000 miles later. Disconnecting briefly the exhaust did not work. This suggested that I was sold a new converter for nothing, but the mechanic must have done something to get it to run better. The question is: what was the problem and what did the mechanic do to improve it? (hint: I had indications of coolant contamination in the valve covers, any connection?)
View 3 Replies