Honda - Element :: Driving Without A Trailing Oxygen Sensor?
Feb 3, 2012
Had my catalytic converter stolen, along with the trailing O2 sensor. Muffler shop replaced the converter but did not have the correct sensor so had to order it. My understanding is that the trailing sensor is used to assess the efficiency of the converter. I have the leading O2 sensor installed and the car seems to run fine. Driving a 2005 Honda Element 5 speed. Question: am I running the risk of damaging the engine while driving it without the trailing sensor?
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I have a 2005 honda odyssey van and the oxygen sensor light keeps coming on.
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This is a 2003 honda civic with about 150k on it. Recently the check engine light came on so I went to Advance auto parts to get my codes read. I got back that the oxygen sensor had gone bad and each and every cylinder was misfiring?
What could be causing the each cylinder to misfire like that? I drive it about 60mi every day and it doesn't seem to drive all that rough. So it's kinda weird that it said every cylinder was misfiring, like how could I even drive it like that?
I heard the oxygen sensor is something I don't have to worry too much about. I could still drive it. The clerk told me to some spray carburetor cleaner on it and that should do something for it.
But recently I've noticed that it starts up rough, seems to strain for about 2-3 seconds then it starts.
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About a year and half ago I purchased a 2003 Honda Element and while it's a good car it has one noticeable issue. Whenever I'm driving between 50-70 mph there is a very noticeable vibrating sound throughout the car. More specifically the sound and vibrating seems to come from the the front and rear wheels. Also when I go over bumps or potholes there are prominent clunks up front as well. Would this have to do with my tire rods, CV boots or even struts?
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My 2006 honda element was taken into a national tire and repair service that I use often . Told them to check my brakes for grinding sound. They concluded that the brakes were safe but could remove a rust or glazing for x dollars. I refused after they said again they were safe. 9 days and 400 miles later ( going to pick a cemetery plot for my dad ). I felt something funny on my front end .
(Out of nowhere ) at driving slow to make my appt . BANG, my front tire flies off across 4 lanes of traffic . Luckily I was nearly in front of a repair shop. They took it, I and told them to repair it and got a ride to my appt. The next day it was done for 400.00 .. It needed a new wheel because the holes were elongated and various parts . Upon returning to my initial repair shop to get a wheel alignment. They feel it could not be their fault when they removed my tires initially because of the 400 miles since they checked my brakes .
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My driver side airbag suddenly deployed while driving - Honda refuses to acknowledge this as a safety issue and will not cover the repair expense.
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I have a 2007 Honda Element. When I am driving at slower speeds (<20mph) and turn sharply the vehicle shudders very hard. What is causing this?
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My Element sputters and/or stalls after driving through standing water in the roadway as during a heavy rain. Not really deep water, just normal roadway puddles and gutter overflow. Does not happen in light rain, but has happened after a car wash with an undercarriage wash. Feels like the car is running out of gas, sputtery, no response when giving it gas, may or may not stall. After driving a few minutes, the problem goes away.
Two mechanics, including the dealer, have looked at it and can find no obvious reason, but of course it never exhibits the problem at the shop. Both mechanics say this could be umpteen different causes.
I've only owned the car about 10 mos (purchased used through dealer with warranty, one owner, clean carfax, pristine maintenance) and this has happened maybe 5-6 times. ~112k miles.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
Read more: [URL] ....
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I need to replace the first oxygen sensor, which is located on exhaust manifold behind the engine. But how to reach it? I've tried both from below and from above with the engine rotated as much forward as was possible but no luck. The only way I see possible to make enough space is to remove the ignition coil, but I don't want to take that step without knowing it is right thing to do.
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We took our 2008 Prius in for a check engine light. The dealership said oxygen sensor was faulty. Changed that and had them change the serpentine belt while there due to cracks in the belt. My wife filled up the car the next day ( it took 13 gallons) but gas gauge was not registering a full tank. We drove 67 miles and I decided to pull into a gas station and see how much it would take since the gas gauge was not working properly. It took over 7 gallons.
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How do you replace an oxygen sensor in a 1997 Cadillac Deville? Where is it located?
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I have a 1998 Nissan Altima (manual transmission). The "Check engine light" came on. The oxygen sensor went bad again. I have had this repaired twice (to pass inspection). Every time I get it repaired, I take the car back to the inspection station and then it passes inspection. But in a few weeks to a couple of months, the "check engine light" comes on again. Every time I get this repaired its almost $400-$500 expense. I should probably take the car to another mechanic this time.
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I have a hyndai Sonata v6. It is 2006 model and has done 86K miles. It recently failed the inspection and I was told it has faulty oxygen sensors. I have replaced the sensors. But now I am advised by the mechanic that I need to drive abut 200 miles before I can take it for the inspection again because it takes some time for the sensors to get adjusted. Is that true ?
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how do you reset o2sensor light on 1992 daihatsu rocky se
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I have just replaced an almost new oxygen sensor on my 2000 Grand Am. After about 40 miles, the check engine light came back on again. I have not had a chance to check it, but I assume it is the oxygen sensor again. What am I missing?
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I have a 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0 with 121,000 miles. I removed the front oxygen sensor today to replace an exhaust pipe, and I noticed that the tip has a red/pinkish color on one side only. What this would indicate?
The only thing I could find online is that a pink tip indicates lead in the fuel. This is impossible, since the only gas station I frequent is a Conoco which is always very busy. Plus, I haven't noticed any performance issues from bad gas, and not to mention the fact that leaded fuel has been completely phased out for 15 years. What's weirder is that the sensor tip is only pink on one side - I'm guessing it's the side that's facing the exhaust manifold.
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I thought this strange occurrence I am about to describe was maybe happening because of a faulty air-fuel oxygen sensor, that I knew was bad do to a code test that was done, when my check engine light came on. However, after changing the air-fuel oxygen sensor, doing a reset on my check engine light over the weekend, this same occurrence is happening, to spite the check engine light remaining off. Here is what is happening.
When I start and drive it to normal driving temperature then put the car in "Park" with nothing turned on, the car will shake the idle speed will move up and down until it will eventually kill.
Special Note: It does not always have a idle drop and kill the engine every time. If I turn the A/C on in "Park" it idles up higher and does not ever kill. Could it be a bad Idle Air Control Motor?
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