Honda - Element :: Clutch Frozen And Would Not Go Into Gear
Feb 14, 2014
No problems and then at 82000 with no warning, the clutch froze and wouldn't go into gear. I coasted into the dealer and learned, after analysis, that one spring had broken. The clutch still had 40% on it, but one spring had snapped. I saw it. They replaced with a Honda Clutch disk with new pilot bushing, throw-out bearing, rear main seal, pressure plate, and manual transmission fluid. This description is taken from the invoice.
So, my question is, could my driving have caused this? A friend, the other day, said I am waiting too long to shift to 2nd and it could cause the problem, he thought. I usual shift around 3000, but now am shifting from 1st to 2nd at 15mph per manual. I thought the only problem with delaying shifting was poor gas mileage, as long as I didn't go into red, which I don't. I want to prolong the life of this new clutch and want to make sure I am treating it gently.
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My husband likes to shift into first gear as he's coming to a stop (either sign or light). I think you shouldn't put it in first until you're at a complete stop. He says he's not doing any harm as long as the clutch is engaged.
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I found today that when I depress and release the brake while my car is in park, there is a clicking sound coming from the gear shift. It only occurs in park and other works fine. I have done some research and some say that it is the solenoid in the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock.
if this is the case? If it is, is this something that I should get fixed and could fix myself? I am fine with the clicking, I just don't want to not be able to shift the car into and out of park.
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My car stalled one day like I was in a high gear at too low of a speed when i was in neutral. It now acts as if it is in a high gear all the time when I am in neutral. When I press the clutch it will idle like it is supposed to but when i let off it pushes forward slightly then stalls exactly like it would if i was in 4th or 5th gear. When I shift into 1st 2nd 3rd or reverse it dies as if it is in gear but will not move even slightly, when I shift into 4th or 5th it again dies but it but is acting just as I would expect 4th or 5t to at a complete stop i feel slightly more power in 4th which is expected being a lower gear but I also feel 5th pull just like its supposed to. I cannot get it to come out of the high gear it is in even though i can move the stick into the neutral position. It is difficult to get the shifter into 4th or 5th but it will move into the other positions like it should with the same no power result. My clutch is fairly new and i have tried inspecting my sift linkage wit no obvious problems. (1991 honda accord lx 5 spd, 2.2 sohc)
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The "D" on my 2004 Honda Element has been flashing lately. It has been happening occasionally for the past couple of days. Most of the time when I notice it, I stop, restart the car, and then it stops flashing. The flashing also continues even when it's in park or reverse. Most people on other forums say that it is a transmission issue so what specific transmission issue it is most likely.
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I put my Honda Element in storage for 6 months while traveling. Upon my return I found the battery was dead (expected that) and have that fixed, But, the big problem is the engine light is on steadily, and the car hardly drives. It "pulses" , or wants to go, even with brake on. I have to put it in neutral at stop lights, as I am afraid it may take off. When idling, it pulses. I accelerated while in neutral and the highest i could get it to go was 5k, pulsing the entire time. Someone suggested I put a product into gas tank called Heat.
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I have a 2004 Honda Element with 115,000 miles. The transmission is going. Is it worth it to put another transmission in it? How long does a rebuilt transmission last?
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Three times this winter my car failed to start on cold mornings after sitting in the garage all night. When I return later, it starts perfectly. I have all the interior light turned off. Even though my battery and alternator checked out OK, I went ahead and replaced the battery. The connectors were cleaned and scuffed up for better connection. I had my brake pads replaced last week and once again they said the electrical system and battery were good. This is such a mystery as it only fails to start 1 out of 100 times.
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Whenever I am on wet pavement, and even on a slight incline, my Honda Element shudders a bit before grabbing the pavement. I have the original tires that came with the - used - car, which I bought three years ago. It's not a big problem, but is a slight irritant. Is it a problem with the tires or something more serious?
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Honda Element 2003 187K miles ... The problem started awhile ago when I went out of town for 4 days and came back and the care would not start. It has been getting worse now to the point that it is less than a day and I have trouble starting it up. I will have to jump the battery to get the car going. The Honda service center has checked the battery and alternator several times and they are good. I keep thinking it is an electric problem but i can turn everything off and it still happens.I really can not afford a car note and I have kept up with all my on schedule maintenance for the car. I have had to redo the motor mounts before, brakes, and fuel gauge switch in the last year. The dealer is suggesting to replace the alternator anyway but why if their test says it is ok. The battery has been replace in 2010 also.
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My 2008, standard transmission, Honda Element just turned over 100,000 miles recently. Over a year ago the engine started making a "hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr" noise and shaking the whole car while I'm sitting at a light or stop sign without touching the gas pedal. If I turn the air on it will stop, but starts up again if I turn the air back off. It doesn't do it all the time, and of course didn't do it when I took it to a mechanic to have it checked out in June. They hooked it up to check for engine codes, and got nothing, so they weren't really sure what to fix since they couldn't make the engine do what I was describing. They did bring a whining noise the engine is making to my attention, and suggested replacing the alternator and 2 associated belts in the engine. While they were in there fixing things, they noticed the lubrication looked contaminated - like water had somehow gotten inside - but couldn't say how.
Unfortunately, my car is pretty much right where it was before visiting the mechanic - only now I notice the constant whining that gets louder when I press the gas pedal, as well as the occasional shaking and "hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr." People who ride with me notice the whining too, and whenever the engine starts shaking they think I should have it looked at. to which I reply, "yes, I have. fat lot of good it did me."
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Cylinder 2 Change plugs, change injector, change Cat and Change OX senor, check compression 165 psi Still can't get this misfire engine light problem to go a way.
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Had battery replaced by shop. No power to radio at all. Power door locks don't work unless key is in run position, remote doesn't work at all. Dome light works only when key is on. The radio fuse is good.
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I just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
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I have a 2007 Honda Element and she'll be rolling over 200K miles later this year. Ellie runs great except for one odd little quirk and she's done it since I bought her, a year and a half ago.
As I am accelerating, if I steady my speed around two certain spots, (25ish mph and 40ish mph), my car sometimes stutters. It's almost as if she is trying to figure out what gear to be in and is bouncing between the two. Could it be something as simple as a sensor? I don't know where to start with this one.
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I have a 2004 Honda Element with 152k. If I use the heater, the air that comes out smells like gasoline. As soon as I select circulation mode, the problem immediately stops.
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Yesterday I had to replace two right side engine mounts on my 2WD 2004 Honda Element w/ 63K (most short drives in a hilly city). The mechanic saved the old parts for me and sure enough they were really torn up. The lower left side control arm also needed to be replaced and they think the Lower right control arm will need replacing in about 3-4K.
This seems to be a fairly short life for such vital items. I've owned front wheel drive cars before and hadn't had this happen. What gives ( besides the rubber)?
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How do I remove my Honda Element's crankshaft pulley so I can replace the water pump? How hard is this job?
Another question. After removing the wheel and some plastic and looking at the pump I wondered why my Honda manual says I need to remove the crankshaft pulley at all?
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About a year and half ago I purchased a 2003 Honda Element and while it's a good car it has one noticeable issue. Whenever I'm driving between 50-70 mph there is a very noticeable vibrating sound throughout the car. More specifically the sound and vibrating seems to come from the the front and rear wheels. Also when I go over bumps or potholes there are prominent clunks up front as well. Would this have to do with my tire rods, CV boots or even struts?
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I have a 2005 honda element with 115,000 miles. Maintained to Honda specs. I get a vibration felt thru the whole car becoming evident at around 40 mph and dissipating around 50 mph. We have had the mechanic confirm all steering assemblies are tight, ball joints, tie rods etc. It has new brakes and the front rotors were also changed out. The brake job has been reck'd. 2 of the Michelien tires were older and replaced with new ones. All tires have been rebalanced. Rims seems fine.
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Had my catalytic converter stolen, along with the trailing O2 sensor. Muffler shop replaced the converter but did not have the correct sensor so had to order it. My understanding is that the trailing sensor is used to assess the efficiency of the converter. I have the leading O2 sensor installed and the car seems to run fine. Driving a 2005 Honda Element 5 speed. Question: am I running the risk of damaging the engine while driving it without the trailing sensor?
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