Honda - Element :: 2008 - 100k Mile Service / Filter Is Noisy?
Feb 11, 2014
My 2008 Honda Element is approaching 100k miles and from what I read on the Element forums it's imperative that I have the valves adjusted.
I called several Honda dealers and they said, they're to be adjusted only if noisy.A local mechanic said he adjusts them only if the engine is skipping.
From what I read with Honda, if they are noisy (relatively speaking) then thats good; "A noisy lifter is a happy lifter". A tight (quiet lifter) can result in a burnt valve.
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My 2008, standard transmission, Honda Element just turned over 100,000 miles recently. Over a year ago the engine started making a "hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr" noise and shaking the whole car while I'm sitting at a light or stop sign without touching the gas pedal. If I turn the air on it will stop, but starts up again if I turn the air back off. It doesn't do it all the time, and of course didn't do it when I took it to a mechanic to have it checked out in June. They hooked it up to check for engine codes, and got nothing, so they weren't really sure what to fix since they couldn't make the engine do what I was describing. They did bring a whining noise the engine is making to my attention, and suggested replacing the alternator and 2 associated belts in the engine. While they were in there fixing things, they noticed the lubrication looked contaminated - like water had somehow gotten inside - but couldn't say how.
Unfortunately, my car is pretty much right where it was before visiting the mechanic - only now I notice the constant whining that gets louder when I press the gas pedal, as well as the occasional shaking and "hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr hurrr." People who ride with me notice the whining too, and whenever the engine starts shaking they think I should have it looked at. to which I reply, "yes, I have. fat lot of good it did me."
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My driver's side Headlight Bulb Low-Beam Part of Bulb is out again. Since about a years time every few months the low-beam part of the bulb goes out & I replace the bulb. I have replaced about "4" bulbs in about a years time. The high-beam part of the bulb always still works. At a glance all wiring appears good; connector seems fine & wires all down into engine bay still encased in plastic tubing. I always use grease on the connector-wire contacts as it states in instructions when replacing bulb. The bulb housing shows no signs of problems. I think if I take it to the dealer they will just find that it all checks good. But I think has to be something like a short or something wrong.
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Whats going on in VW land. I have a little problem. Last week I got gas and as soon as I left the gas station the engine light came on. I ran diagnostics, which show cylinder 3 misfire. Looking for the easy way out I replaced the spark plugs (cylinder 3 plug was trashed), this did not fix the problem and my baby is still running like crap. What it may be or the next step I have to take?
I am approaching the 100,000 mile mark and in the service portion of our manual it doesn't say anything about changing belts. It only says they run diagnostic and check the car out.
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Having a strong odor/smell in there car after service at the dealer? I have a strong smell as if someone sprayed an aerosol can in the car or a marker was left without the lid on it. It has been 2 days since the service and the smell is still there. I called the dealer and they said they would take a look at it, but they didn't know what it would be. I though it might be the adblue since they did refill it, but I don't think that stuff has this strong of a smell and the filler is in the trunk area.
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So I just brought my 2015 golf TDI in for its 20,000 standard service and then starting about 2 days later, every time I start the engine there is this rapid (and loud) ticking sound which goes on for 20 seconds or so before stopping. It almost sounds like it is coming from the passenger side speaker or under the passenger side dash. It sounds electronic in nature rather than mechanical but I'm not really sure.
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Just had my 20,000 mile service yesterday on my Prius Plug In and got 10-15mpg loss in gas mileage today. It seems like ECO mode isn't even working anymore because MPG just drops to 15 MPG when you accelerate pass the half way point.
I'll take it back to dealership tomorrow? It should have only been a oil change and oil filter change. Reading some old threads makes me thing they put in the wrong oil?? It says 0W20 on service contract but not sure if correct.
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The "D" on my 2004 Honda Element has been flashing lately. It has been happening occasionally for the past couple of days. Most of the time when I notice it, I stop, restart the car, and then it stops flashing. The flashing also continues even when it's in park or reverse. Most people on other forums say that it is a transmission issue so what specific transmission issue it is most likely.
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I put my Honda Element in storage for 6 months while traveling. Upon my return I found the battery was dead (expected that) and have that fixed, But, the big problem is the engine light is on steadily, and the car hardly drives. It "pulses" , or wants to go, even with brake on. I have to put it in neutral at stop lights, as I am afraid it may take off. When idling, it pulses. I accelerated while in neutral and the highest i could get it to go was 5k, pulsing the entire time. Someone suggested I put a product into gas tank called Heat.
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I have a 2004 Honda Element with 115,000 miles. The transmission is going. Is it worth it to put another transmission in it? How long does a rebuilt transmission last?
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Three times this winter my car failed to start on cold mornings after sitting in the garage all night. When I return later, it starts perfectly. I have all the interior light turned off. Even though my battery and alternator checked out OK, I went ahead and replaced the battery. The connectors were cleaned and scuffed up for better connection. I had my brake pads replaced last week and once again they said the electrical system and battery were good. This is such a mystery as it only fails to start 1 out of 100 times.
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Whenever I am on wet pavement, and even on a slight incline, my Honda Element shudders a bit before grabbing the pavement. I have the original tires that came with the - used - car, which I bought three years ago. It's not a big problem, but is a slight irritant. Is it a problem with the tires or something more serious?
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The air box on my 01 Rodeo almost sounds like there is no filter inside it. I've checked the box and their is a filter. Still when I give it the gas it has a very throaty sound....is this normal or is my air box missing a baffle or something.
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No problems and then at 82000 with no warning, the clutch froze and wouldn't go into gear. I coasted into the dealer and learned, after analysis, that one spring had broken. The clutch still had 40% on it, but one spring had snapped. I saw it. They replaced with a Honda Clutch disk with new pilot bushing, throw-out bearing, rear main seal, pressure plate, and manual transmission fluid. This description is taken from the invoice.
So, my question is, could my driving have caused this? A friend, the other day, said I am waiting too long to shift to 2nd and it could cause the problem, he thought. I usual shift around 3000, but now am shifting from 1st to 2nd at 15mph per manual. I thought the only problem with delaying shifting was poor gas mileage, as long as I didn't go into red, which I don't. I want to prolong the life of this new clutch and want to make sure I am treating it gently.
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Honda Element 2003 187K miles ... The problem started awhile ago when I went out of town for 4 days and came back and the care would not start. It has been getting worse now to the point that it is less than a day and I have trouble starting it up. I will have to jump the battery to get the car going. The Honda service center has checked the battery and alternator several times and they are good. I keep thinking it is an electric problem but i can turn everything off and it still happens.I really can not afford a car note and I have kept up with all my on schedule maintenance for the car. I have had to redo the motor mounts before, brakes, and fuel gauge switch in the last year. The dealer is suggesting to replace the alternator anyway but why if their test says it is ok. The battery has been replace in 2010 also.
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Cylinder 2 Change plugs, change injector, change Cat and Change OX senor, check compression 165 psi Still can't get this misfire engine light problem to go a way.
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Had battery replaced by shop. No power to radio at all. Power door locks don't work unless key is in run position, remote doesn't work at all. Dome light works only when key is on. The radio fuse is good.
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I have a 2007 Honda Element and she'll be rolling over 200K miles later this year. Ellie runs great except for one odd little quirk and she's done it since I bought her, a year and a half ago.
As I am accelerating, if I steady my speed around two certain spots, (25ish mph and 40ish mph), my car sometimes stutters. It's almost as if she is trying to figure out what gear to be in and is bouncing between the two. Could it be something as simple as a sensor? I don't know where to start with this one.
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I have a 2004 Honda Element with 152k. If I use the heater, the air that comes out smells like gasoline. As soon as I select circulation mode, the problem immediately stops.
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Yesterday I had to replace two right side engine mounts on my 2WD 2004 Honda Element w/ 63K (most short drives in a hilly city). The mechanic saved the old parts for me and sure enough they were really torn up. The lower left side control arm also needed to be replaced and they think the Lower right control arm will need replacing in about 3-4K.
This seems to be a fairly short life for such vital items. I've owned front wheel drive cars before and hadn't had this happen. What gives ( besides the rubber)?
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How do I remove my Honda Element's crankshaft pulley so I can replace the water pump? How hard is this job?
Another question. After removing the wheel and some plastic and looking at the pump I wondered why my Honda manual says I need to remove the crankshaft pulley at all?
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