Honda - Dashboards :: Dash Lights Do Not Come On And Speedometer Does Not Work
Sep 10, 2016
Ignition switch has been replaced. Since then the dash lights do not come on and the speedometer doesn't work. what could the problem be?
View 9 RepliesIgnition switch has been replaced. Since then the dash lights do not come on and the speedometer doesn't work. what could the problem be?
View 9 RepliesI have a 95 Honda Accord V6, the D4 light is flashing and the speedometer needle does not work. When in stop and go traffic, the needle bounces around and makes the car stall and downshift and rev up. I replaced the speed sensor with no change.
View 6 RepliesSo I just got some winter tires put on 10 minutes while driving the trac control started blinking and then all the lights on the dash came on and speedometer just went to zero. Still drives but odometer isn't adding mileage and also seems to loose power steering while driving.
View 4 RepliesThis morning as soon as I started the car, the speedometer dash turned completely scrambled and the rest of the lights keep blinking/flashing. The car does turn on and drive. Upon drive the Maint Reqd and Low temp icons keep flashing. I think I smell something burning as well but I not sure.
In the video below you can see the scrambling. Occasionally it will just turn off. I tried the battery disconnect but did not work. I definitely think something is burning around dash but cannot be sure.
I recently just got an R32, from a local guy in town. I love the car, and have driven it sparingly as I am still waiting on the title from the bank. As for now I'm doing the usual used car shake down.
I am having problems getting the gauge cluster lights to come on with the head lights. Sometimes when I move it over a bump or two it turns on. Sometimes the trick is to open and close the doors a few times it shakes the car into turning on the dash lights.
I know I have an electrical short somewhere, and I am not sure where to begin diagnosing this problem. Is it the switch? A bad connection to the gauge cluster? A bad wire? I've already pulled the switch and cleaned all the contacts. What else should I do?
i got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van for camping trips and the dash lights and tail lights don't work but the turn signal works and the brake lights work and the headlights work i put in a new fuse and they worked for about 5 minutes then quit working there did apper to be a little watter in one of the tail light bulbs if that works.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 f-150, and the other week i was driving when my driving lights went out. My Day time running lights went out in the front (DRL) and my driving lights in the rear won't come on either. The dash back light wont come on, and neither with the lights behind the A/C panel. I checked all the fuses, and none were blown, and I still replaced some anyway. And I replaced the actual headlamp switch itself. I have no clue what to do next.
View 5 RepliesMy car not starting at times. the issue goes like this i'll start it up drive it to where i need to go park it do what i need to do come back out to the car and it wont start there;s no clicking from the starter or anything but all my dash lights and electronics work and after trying to start the car for about 15-20 min it'll start up no problem. i went and had the battery and starter tested and they said it was fine. all i can think of is that its the ignition switch but i don't wanna go out and spend close to 100 bucks to replace this if its not the problem.
View 24 RepliesMy tail lights and dash lights only work when I hit the brakes, or when the left blinker is on. When the blinker is on, the dash lights blink on and off with the blinker. When braking they stay on until I step off of the brake pedal.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Honda Civic with about 68,000 miles on it. Yesterday my car started up fine before leaving to work. 7 hours later my car did not start. All my lights work, horn works. Took the battery out and had it tested anyway. They told me the battery is good. I've been reading about other civics having issues with the "anti theft" immobilizer and it keeping their car from starting. Before I take my car to a mechanic, to test starter and everything else.
View 13 RepliesI was t-boned in my passenger side door & rear quarter panel. After being hit, I tried to stop but nothing happened when I pressed on my brake pedal. It's a 2011 manual transmission Honda CR-Z. I am 100% sure that I was pressing the brake pedal because my left foot was on the clutch - I even looked down to make sure. I did stop after hitting a car that was about 20 yards in front of me after the initial crash.
When I came to a stop all the dash warning lights were on. I had taken it out of gear but it was stalled anyway. I turned it all the way off and about 15 minutes later I restarted the engine. The 'Cruise Main' light was still illuminated on the dash (I hadn't been using the cruise control). I pressed the cruise control button and the light went out. And then tested the brakes and they worked just fine!
Could the battery recharging brakes or the battery location in the rear of the car have anything to do with this? I'm awaiting a report from Honda. The service technician as going to see if the computer has any information to explain the loss of brakes.
I have a 2000 Honda CRV, standard transmission. Within the last 2-3 months, I have had my battery, starter, and radiator replaced. Three times in the last month, I have turned my car on and the headlights and dashboard lights won't come on. However, the break lights, blinkers, and other interior lights come on. The first time, I shut the car off and left it over night and the lights all worked in the morning. The second time this happened, I just turned the car lights on and off a few times, and they came back on. When it happened this evening, I tried turning the car and the lights on and off, but no luck. I took the car to a mechanic after it happened the first time. He said that because it wasn't happening then, it would be really hard to diagnose.
View 10 RepliesI just bought a 01 Intrigue that the dash lights don't work and the gas gauge stays at fuel when you start the car. It goes to empty when you shut it off.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 legacy wagon (245k miles) that has a light issue. The running lights and low beam lights do not work and the dash parking break light will not go out. Earlier I had just the low beams not working. They were both blown and I replaced them about two weeks ago. Now they are out again and the dash parking break light stays on. I checked the fuzes and they look good.
View 8 RepliesA friend recently replaced the alternator on my 1991 740 Volvo GL. I got a used one that was a B230FT system, although not sure what that means. I think my 740 GL model is actually a B230F? Anyways, the alternators looked different, the old one was a Denso and didn't have blades. The new one is a Bosch with blades and slightly larger than the original. My friend had to make some modifications to the connections, basically clipping off the end of one of the wires, and exposing the wire so he could connect it to the new alternatlow beam headlights are too dimor.
My car is running, but my to see anything at night so I have to use the brights. And the dash lights, clock, and radio no longer work. The radio does not have "code" on it. It doesn't turn on at all. My mechanic says we have the wrong alternator on there, that the electrical system is different. But other sources said it would work fine. Is this true? Could the wire that he stripped and connected not be fully grounded resulting in these weird electrical failures? I'm still driving the car to work, but it makes me nervous.
I have a 1990 Honda Accord that I'm having a problem with. When I turn the key to start the car, the car turns over and starts great, but when I let go of the key the car immediately dies. Before I actually push the key into position III to start the car, I've discovered that I can move the key in the range between positions II and III and get the indicator lights on the dash to go on and off, so clearly there is some sort of loose electrical connection. I've discovered that if I start the car and then quickly turn the key back a ways to the point where the connection seems to be good, I can keep the car from dying and then it runs fine. Does the diagnosis of a bad ignition cylinder/switch seem to be accurate for this problem? I just don't want to replace the wrong component(s).
View 1 Replies2000 Honda Odyssey, Gear indicator light on ther dash works when I start the van, however, when I turn on the headlights, the gear indicator and the gauge illumination lights do not work, when I switch the headlights off the gear indicator light works again. I checked the fuses and replaced them just to check.
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
View 2 RepliesAt 130,000 I replaced the transmission. Now, randomly the car has flickering lights on the dash while I am driving. The radio flickers, and the tach/speedometers drop to zero. After this happens and I turn off the car, the car will not restart. It is completely dead. If I wait 2.5 minutes, there is much clicking in the dash, then everything comes back to life. No one can figure it out. I will add that in the 9 years I've owned this thing, I have replaced 5-6 batteries. The transmission guy says something is pulling on the battery, but he nor Honda can figure out what it is.
View 3 RepliesI recently installed a new car stereo in my 05 CRV to replace the factory unit which had a broken CD player. Everything appeared to go fine, but I noticed at night that when the Head Light switch was turned on, only the top half of the dash lights would turn on, the lights for the AC/Heater failed to light, and the PRNDD1D2 lights which work fine in the day (sans the drive light not working, but that's been the case for a year now) would turn off. I've checked the fuses and found no blown ones, although the fact that the top half of the dash lights still turn on made a blown fuse seem less likely.
The lights that are left on will still dim/brighten when the dimmer knob is turned, and I noticed that if I pull the small lights fuse the dash lights don't work, but the PRNDD1D2 lights remain lit even with the headlights on. I've tried removing and re installing the factory stereo to see if there was a short in the new wiring harness, but that changed nothing. As is the car is still drivable, as the top half of the dash lights is enough to make all the gauges readable, but it's still a bit annoying. Any clues as to what I've done, and is there a reasonably cheap fix to the problem?
Yet again my honda is doing some new. My mid dash lights don't come on at all anymore (even when i start the car), my power drive and winter drive buttons don't work, I can't stop/start on a hill, I have to get 2rpms going to get anywhere, and my battery volts are over 12 when driving.
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