I have a 87 Honda crx si that the blower works in setting 1-2 but in setting 3-4 it kills the car I check the altenator witch was bad and replaced it witch should of fixed the problem previous owner said he had replace it once before. when you turn the heater to the 3rd setting in idle the car lugs down a little and if u give it gas it instantly kills it 4th setting won't work at all...
View 7 Replies1987 323 Mazda, manual transmission. Recently replaced motor and transmission and air conditioner, all used. Prior to replacement vehicle burned oil and was leaking transmission fluid and air conditioner wasn't working. Air conditioner was leaking and mechanic fixed the leak. First time I started it after that, there were a few big puffs of white smoke. Drove it about a week. Putting it in first was a little rough (but that was a problem with the transmission we used for replacement from another old car of ours we junked). but no other problems. Then we noticed it was leaking quite a bit of antifreeze and we could see it leaking onto the engine. We were putting antifreeze in it everyday.
I drive around 80 miles a day. After about a week, I had been driving it about 40 miles that day, I backed it into a driveway to turn around and when I put it in first, it was jerking and lurching. Drove it a carlength and it died. No check engine light. No overheating. Started it again and it bucked a few times while driving another carlength and died again. Then would start and die, start and die, start and die. No movement. Called the tow truck and took it to the mechanic. He said it was the fuel pump and fuel filter and replaced both those. He also fixed the antifreeze leak which was a loose clamp.
The next morning I drove it, it still lurched a couple times and a couple puffs of white smoke. Then I drove it about 10 miles, no problem. Parked it for about 2 hours and started it again. No problem initially, but then when I got to first stop sign in about a block, it lurched a bit. Next stop sign, another lurch. Then on the interstate a couple more small lurches, but not bad. After 10 miles I cruised to a stop and put it in neutral (to leave the engine on) and it died. No check engine light. Just the charge light came on. I had been playing the radio and radio was fine.
I started it again and drove straight to mechanic (about 2 miles). It lurched and bucked some along the way, but no white smoke. He replaced distributor but he said it didn't work. He said it was worse than before. I've looked at some similar problems on the net and here's what I found:
ground wire from the battery to the body and from engine to frame
EGR valve
Crankshaft position sensor
Powertrain control module (I don't even know if this car has one of those)idle air control
I don't know if mechanic has looked at any of the above.
Recently, today in my 87 Ranger suddenly the engine dies and all electronics in the cab fail.
I noticed under the hood that the fusible link connected to the battery and an orange and black wire was smoking. Tracing this line i found that it leads to the ignition switch, as well as some other places.
There is another fusible link and the junction between the yellow ignition wire and the orange and black wire from the battery. This fusible link also was failed.
I'm planning on replacing the fusible links tomorrow but in case that does not fix it, where to look next.
The problem only occurs when the key is in the ON position. I'm thinking maybe I could do some tests with a multimeter on the ignition switch but am not sure of the details of what I should test for.
Summary: Fusible Links C, and E burn out when the ignition is in the ON position.
I have a 1987 Mercedes 560sl. Has new fuel pumps, fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter, fuel strainer cleaned, fluids at proper level, and new brakes/rotors. Runs fine until I get to a hill. Then when I push the accelerator it bogs down and then dies. Continues this and will only idle.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1987 ford f150 with a EFI throttle bodied 5.0L (302), and I have taken it to a mechanic multiple times because for one it has a dead spot in the throttle and it dies when you let off the gas at a stop light or sign. But the mechanic said he checked everything he knew to check and found nothing wrong with it. I also had my cousin read the computer previous to this and we couldn't pull the codes from it.
View 2 RepliesI have an 87 ranger that has started having problems over the last week or so. I had a similar problem a year or so ago. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on and it fixed it. So it started acting up again so I got another regulator and it didn't work at all. It won't idle at all without dying. The motor revs up then cuts out completely and dies. It's like I'm repeatedly pressing the gas pedal when I do get it to idle but I'm not touching it at all. It runs fairly well on the road until I let off the gas then it goes to shaking and jumping up and down till I get back on the gas.
A guy told me to unplug a little cigarette pack shaped plastic box and see if it changed anything. I think he called it a map sensor? But that didn't do anything. I was thinking maybe the fuel filter was clogged up but I don't really know. It is fuel injected 2.9 4x4 regular cab. About 110000 miles. Not sure if filter has ever been changed. It doesn't smoke or smell like gas so I'm thinking it's starving for fuel.
I own a 1987 Plymouth Horizon, 70, 000 miles on it. Long story short, The car sat for 3 years without being driven. It would just be started up whenever the other owners wanted to. I have fixed a lot of its problems, and replaced tires, brakes, hoses, belts etc.. Problem I am having is when itis started up it is at a very high idle and will not allow you to kick it down till it warms up or it idles down on it's own after being warm. I have sprayed carburetor cleaner around the linkage and so on but it still does it. What could be causing it?
Like I said the car sat for 3 years and did have gas in it when I bought it and not being able to drain out the old gas I put HEET gas-line antifreeze & water remover in it. The fuel filter has been changed out twice. Once you get it on the road it runs like a champ for being 24 years old. It's just the high idle when you first start it up. The owner of it had some little quirks I guess you would say. He had and they are still there, two clothes pens on the gas rail/line and they were there because of vapor lock. They are located on two different parts of the line I guess to balance it out. Now I don't know if this is true or how even remotely possible two clothes pens could have anything to work with vapor lock. Now I do know that on occasion it will run a bit and stop when you cut off the engine, though not all the time....
She has an old Honda Civic wagon - circa 1987 or so. Recently, the driver's seat belt has been sticking such that it will not pull out. I managed to get it to release by giving it a really good hard yank, and we've clipped it temporarily to prevent it from retracting all the way when she is not wearing it. She can remove the clip and use it when she drives, atleast for now.
But I have a couple of questions: is the seatbelt still safe to use - in other words will it still work if she's in an accident? Also, if it is safe, is there any way to easily see the retractor mechanism to figure out what is happening? It seems to be hanging up on that little "button" on the belt - not sure what purpose that little dot serves?.
Additional info : car has about 120K miles on it, and has never been in an accident - she's the original owner. The seatbelt itself, for those who have not sen this model, is attached to the door. The top buckle is in a fixed position - it does not move. The movement of the belt, bottom and top, seems to come from inside of the door.
I have a 1987 Honda Accord,that has a carburetor. initially I thought that it was my motor mounts or the idle speed needed adjusting. However since they have been replaced I and the idle speed tuned the problem persists. I don't know what else could be wrong. I have changed all belts, mounts, and still whenever I use anything electrical (I.e. fans, rear defrost, power windows,etc.) And the care is traveling below 10 mph the shaking just won't stop.that is till I put one foot on break and the other on gas. Keeping the idle speed above 1000 revolutions per minute.
View 3 RepliesMy ranger 2.9 automatic 2WD has an high idle when started for about 6 min, engine can be hot or cold, still get the high idle, then it will drop to around 900-1000. I've changed the Idle control twice, checked EGR function. Replace temp sensor. Disconnected battery for 15 min. No code output.
View 7 RepliesThis morning I went to start my car and while the engine was warming up (it's carbureted, not fuel injected) I heard a strange sound that I can only describe as sort of a "gulp" or something. As I was driving to the doctor, at one point I was going up a slight hill so I went to accelerate and the RPMs reved up but I didn't go any faster than I was going, which was about 30-35mph. What's going on here? 1987 Honda Accord LX....
View 4 RepliesMy girlfriends B6's blower fan as of tonight only has the speed of 4 (max speed). What to do to fix it etc...?
Here is a pic of the car......
When turning the ac/heat on it will only work on the high setting and none of the lower ones - 2003 f250 .....
View 3 Replies94 blazer ac fan will work on low and med but not high replaced resistor under hood but still no high speed fan?...........
View 8 RepliesSo I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 RWD named Beulah and she is quite the beast... She's got over 260,000 miles (given to me by my father after he used it as a work truck, so mostly highway mileage) and a few little kinks and issues. The one at hand today is some lugging/chugging of the engine usually after wet weather. I live near Lake Michigan and we just got dumped on by lake effect snow, but over this weekend it warmed up and we got quite a bit of rain. After this rain, I went to drive my truck and while it starts just fine and idles just fine, for about 10 or so minutes of initial driving, while at speeds anywhere from 0-30 miles an hour or so, Beulah seems to run a little rough. It almost sounds like she's lugging a bit or something's sticking in her engine. After about 10 minutes or so of driving it seems to fade away so my guess is its just some moisture getting into something and eventually evaporating from the heat of the engine. My questions are 1. Is this bad for my truck? 2. Is there a way to prevent this without spending a fortune?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 Honda Accord with 55,000 miles on it. Recently both the AC and the blower fan stopped working. The AC completely, the blower fan still works on high and auto high. Checked the fuses all ok. There is also a slight delay for the fan to kick on high or auto which was not there before. Again no AC!
View 2 RepliesBlower only works on high speed. From what I have read the problem is either the switch or the motor resistor. I am leaning toward the resistor which is behind the glove box. Where can I find directions for removing the Glove box?
View 1 RepliesSo I pullled into a reststop to relieve myself and when I drove off none of my lamps (high,low,or fog) worked. Along with them my blower fan does not work nor the rear defoggers, wipers, spray with wipers, turn signal (hazards do work though). Is there a fuse or relay that connects them together?
View 2 RepliesWell my blower motor only blows on high which IMO points to the resistor, went and bought one and still only blows on high. Tried to test the plug that goes to the resistor but couldn't get anything, shouldn't there be 12v going to the plug and then step down to the resistor until high is selected then 12v bypasses the resistor all together? Blows strong and cold, too cold actually since we cant turn the blower down so we have to turn it off for a few minutes.
View 9 RepliesWill the wheels for 2012 fx4 fit my 2004 lariat 6 lugs?
View 2 RepliesFan blower will only run on high speed intermittently.
View 1 Replies