Honda - Cr-x :: 1989 - NJ Inspections For High Emissions Failed
May 6, 2013
My Honda CRX, 1989 failed the NJ Inspections for very high Emissions. The engine has 200,000 miles. I had a lot of repairs done on it: new majorrnator, new oil pan cover, new engine gasket, new radiator, new axels. brakes, new alternator. catalytic converter, muffler. Unfortunately, now it failed for very high emissions. I added the Diesel and Car Cleaner, but did not work. what can I do to fix the car so it will pass the Emissions Test? what can be wrong with it, and will it cost me a lot of money. Is it worth trying to cure it or should I retire it, and sell it?I am on a very tight budget, and am depending on this car for my transportation.
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
My 1992 Honda Accord failed the emission test today for a too high NOX reading. The applicable standard is 2.50 and my car's reading was 2.61. I've read that high NOX has something to do with a malfunctioning EGR valve. Will replacing the EGR valve guarantee that I pass the emissions test? I don't want to start throwing money at all kinds of parts.
View 4 Replies
I own an '01 Honda Accord LX with the ULEV engine and 178k on it. My CEL light came on about 6 months ago. Ran the scanner and it showed a P1457 (EVAP Leak). Waited until now when my inspection was due and expected it to be caused by the EVAP shut valve as I read that's often the cause of the problem with this code. Mechanic said that it can't pass inspection because of the OBD fail but that the diagnostic scanner showed everything functioning properly, including my assumption about the faulty shut valve.
He reset the code and said to drive it the 50 miles for the system to ready itself and bring it back in. As I've reset the code several times over the 6 months to see if it would self correct, I'm pretty confident it will come back on. My questions are, is it possible I've done damage to the onboard computer by not addressing the underlying problem 6 months ago? Are there emissions problems that are not checked by the diagnostic tool that the mechanic should be looking for?
View 7 Replies
My car failed emissions and I was told that the N80 purge valve needs replacement.
View 2 Replies
I drive a 1990 240 with close to 300,000 miles on it. Haven’t had any troubles with it in the 1-2 years I’ve had it.
Recently went in to get my smog checked and failed two of the three tests: the functional and emissions. I've attached the VIR.
Mechanic said there might be a leak, so a buddy of mine checked the engine for a vacuum leak but couldn’t find anything.
What are the common sources for a failed smog check? I plan on getting a diagnostic later in the week/
smogcheckVIR.png ( 1.93MB )
View 1 Replies
We have a 92 Honda Accord 2.2L We have been trying to get it to pass emissions since October. So far we have replace the gas cap, replaced the O2 sensor and replaced the EGR valve. Here are the readings 25/25 test 50/15 testHC ppm 17 29CO% .07 .20NO ppm 1162 1230 after replacing the O2 sensor but before the EGR the 25/25 side passed reading 1005CO+CO2 % 15 15
View 9 Replies
Have got a 2006 Azera 3.3 (same engine as Sonata and have had no luck in the Azera section) which is showing Check Engine Light and P0171 code. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are very high. I have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
View 30 Replies
Have got a Azera 3.3 which is showing P0171 CEL. Have cleared it but it soon returns and emissions are well out. Have tried with my limited knowledge to check the live data via a scanner but everything seems OK.
I've cleaned the MAF sensor but I'm thinking of replacing it but don't want to do this unnecessarily!
Is there anything else I could be checking? Car drives OK and there's nothing obvious symptom wise other than the emissions and the CEL.
View 2 Replies
On Sunday the high-pitched beep went off while driving, followed by the orange engine light to the left of the speedo needle and EMISSIONS WORKSHOP coming up on the computer.
Everything is normal. Revs are fine, temp is fine, no other lights come on. I checked the coolant and that is fine too. This happened about two months ago, but it stopped after a couple of days.
Could this be something like an O2 censor?
View 9 Replies
So I think my A/c high pressure switch went out/failed. I came out from a shop and I had just bought 2 new front tires and got them mounted 1 hour prior and I though that I had ran over something. I felt around the passenger tire but didn't find a anything-but there was a hissing noise behind the passenger tire and the air smelled a little funny. So when I got in the car and turned the a/c on nothing happened/No cold air and I had just used the A/c on the way over to the shop. So when I got home I pulled these codes:
00792.Air Conditioner pressure switch F129
01274.Motor for Air Recirculation flap V71
View 1 Replies
I have a 2000 Honda CRV, driver side door lock actuator has failed. Door is shut and will not open. I have pulled back the door panel enough to see the actuator and touch it. How can I get the door open to replace the actuator?
View 5 Replies
My car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
This morning I went in for a state inspection, oil change and rear brake replacement. Driving home while going downhill on the highway, I hit the brakes - and they failed completely. At first it felt like the car actually bucked forward. I tried flooring the brake, but felt no resistance and the car didn't stop. I kept my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop.
The tow truck driver told me he could feel a problem just getting the car onto the tow truck, and again when he took it off.
The Honda place checked it and did a test drive, found nothing.They said it couldn't be air in the brakes be took me for a short test drive and assured me I'd be fine. The
I headed home again and the brakes failed again at almost the same spot. This time it wasn't a complete failure. After no resistance at first, the brakes "caught" though somewhat mushily. I put on my flashers and kept going, at about 45 mph. Got off the highway and had to crawl because braking wasn't taking effect immediately. But as I drove on at 10 mph, they began working again. Not as well as they should, but enough to get me home.
It seems the brakes fail after 15 - 20 minutes of driving at 65 mph. They work better after a rest and at slower speeds.
If it makes a difference, my compressor is gone, so the car doesn't have a/c, and it is hot out so I'm wondering if the heat is affecting something. However, I haven't had these brake problems until today.
View 19 Replies
1989 Honda Accord DX .. I have 2 problems.
Problem 1: the car will not idle with the ac on, goes dead.
Problem 2: the tank has a capacity of 15.9 gal. But after 10 gal. have been used, I have to put gas in for the car to run.
View 3 Replies
I have an '89 Jeep Cherokee and it idles way to high. In park it idles at from 1500-3000 after being warmed up. In drive it idles at 1300-1500. It idles at 2000 at 35 mph. We've replaced the O2 censor, the throttle positioning censor, the coolant temperature sensor, and a few other parts. None of this worked.
View 14 Replies
I have a 89 f250 4x4 351W FI C6 Auto, recently I was having problems with the trans it was revving up real high before it went into 2nd. I dropped the pan and the valve body to make sure their were no shavings or any other debris. Everything ok.
So I replaced the valve modulator and the line that goes to the intake, replaced the MLPS and adjusted the intermediate band. I put it all back together and NOW it won't even go in gear. Did I hook up the valve body wrong? If so what is the proper way of doing it?
I only unbolted the valve body from the trans I didn't take it apart. I was also wondering whats up with the color strips on the modulator I have purple right now was i suppose to have different color? Could the pin for the modulator not be in place? I added 3 quarts is that to much or not enough?
View 6 Replies
Today, for the first time, my 2007 CRV suddenly failed to respond to an acceleration attempt after I had to suddenly press on the brake on a highway. Both meters seemed to respond and moved in some way but the car was either non-responsive or was slowing down. It all took 30-60 seconds until the car went back to normal on its own without even stopping. What could have caused it? Normally, I would probably wait until it happens again to start worrying but since I drive with my child most of the time, I don't want to take any chances.
View 9 Replies
RPM's will not get above 2000, in 1st and 2nd gear. No power....
View 16 Replies
My 1989 Honda Accord LX, with 135,000 miles on it, stalls after a few minutes of driving. Then, after re-starting, it stalls before I even have a chance to put it into drive. My mechanic replaced an electric base plate gasket in the carburetor but warned me that this repair might not fix the problem. If it didn't, I probably would need to replace the carburetor -- if one could be found for a 1989 model. Well, I still have the problem. My question: Is it worth it to invest $1,500, more or less, for a carburetor for a 22-year-old car? I've been using it strictly as a second car for the last 11 or 12 years. It seems to be in good shape otherwise.
View 2 Replies
'89 Honda Accord LX Sedan 5-Speed, 266k miles...
Bought this car recently and it worked fine when I got it (the most perfect 22-year old car I've ever seen). Between then and now I've driven it a little. It's my first stick shift car, so I've stalled it a few times, ground the gears a little, etc. learning to drive it. Anyway, it now won't shift into first gear. It shifts fine and drives fine in all the other gears, the only problem is with first. It also shifts fine into all gears when the car is off.
On a side note (in case it pertains to this situation), the car takes a little while to warm up. For 5-10 minutes after it is turned on, it idles really fast and makes a horrid scratching noise and then stalls if put into reverse (don't know about first, since it won't go into first). Once the idling slows down, though, this problem goes away.
View 7 Replies
I have an 89 accord dx. That i just recently replaced the starter. and since then its been difficult to start. I have to pump the gas and hold the ignition. I also replaced the fuel pump not too long ago and the battery, also the fuel relay. have also gave a tune up so new plugs and wires and air filter. the only thing havent replaced is the fuel filter but it started like this right after i replaced the starter.
View 5 Replies
When engine is cold, my 1989 Honda Civic with 270,000 miles starts fine. I'll drive it about 3-5 miles to run an errand, and shut it off for a few minutes while I'm in the store. When I come out, engine turns over but has trouble starting. It almost seems like it's backfiring through the engine. If I wait about 15-20 minutes, I can usually get it to start by goosing it, but the engine runs rough (intermittently) and sometimes stalls. The problem seems to be related to the engine temperature. Could this be caused by a sticky valve?
View 1 Replies
