1997 Honda crv wont go over 60 mph on the highway. I can put the accelerator all the way down, but it stays right at 60 and the RPMs won't go over 4. Sometimes I can take my foot off the accelerator and put it back on and the car will go to RPMs 3 and the speed can go to 80 and above, but lately it is getting worse. Is this just a transmission fluid exchange fix?
View 19 RepliesMy '97 Honda Civic overheats when driven at high speed on the highway for more than an hour. I've changed the thermostat and the radiator fan, but it still does it.
View 15 RepliesWhen I'm driving at highway speeds and hit the brakes hard-ish (e.g., if the car in front of me stops or if I suddenly realize I'm going too fast on an exit ramp), my 1997 Honda Accord feels like it's shimmying from side to side. It only happens for a moment, but in that moment I feel like I'm on the verge of losing control of the car.
I've only noticed this in the last few months. What this might be? I'm going in for an oil change tomorrow and would like to ask my mechanic to take a look at this, but I'd like to have some theories/guesses in my back pocket before I go in.
The transmission feels like its slipping while in drive. Oddly though, it shifts great using 1st to 2nd to Drive, then using an on / off switch to control 3rd to Overdrive/4th. Its automatic and I am just using the shifter to control shifting, because the car doesn't seem to downshift on its own either. It will stay in Overdrive/4th even at 35mph with the pedal to the floor, only sometimes downshifting after awhile. The car also hesitates slightly while driving at above 65mph on highway. It stops doing so on hills, and it has no issues at lower speeds, even at 5k rpms. Not sure what that is related to. I just bought it, and the transmission fluid is black, not sure if its from lack of maintenance. I assume the transmission needs a rebuild, but the more I know the better I won't be ripped off at a shop.
View 2 RepliesWhen having an oil change at Valvoline, the mechanic informed me that the tip of the transmission dip stick was broken off. If this tip is floating around could this piece of metal damage my transmission?
View 4 RepliesIt's an '03 Odyssey with 116K miles that has developed a hitch when shifting from second to third. It feels like an uncoordinated manual shift when the clutch is put in before the accelerator is lifted. Car revs 500 rpm before completing the shift. This only happens under load, such as when accelerating hard from a stop or moderate acceleration going up a hill. Not willing yet to let the dealer tell me I just need a new transmission and so few places deal with automatic repairs.
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2004 Honda Accord over the summer. Now the the weather is cooler, I drive with the windows down, and I have noticed there is a "clack" sound when I change gears. It is hard to describe the sound, but it sounds like someone hitting a plate of metal with a hammer. I only hear this sound in first, second and third gear. The engine gets too loud in fourth and fifth gear, so it may just be drowning out the "clack".
I never remember hearing such a sound when I drove a manual transmission back in the late 90s. Is this sound an indicator of a problem? Do I need to take the car into a shop to have them take a look at it?
Additional Information:
Mileage: 106,000I am not the original owner, I purchased it at CarMax, and there was only one owner for the entire life of the car until CarMax bought it. The car looks like it was really cared for by the original owner. CarMax said that the clutch was fine, but...you never know with salesmen.
1991 Honda Civic, automatic transmission, the car/steering wheel shake badly when the car stops at the red light. It only happens when brake pedal is pressed AND in D gear. If shift from D to N, the shake disappears. As soon as the traffic light turns green and the car starts to accelerate, the shake disappears. Four spark plugs were replaced, no effect at all.
View 13 RepliesI own a 1999 Honda Accord w/160K miles. This past summer my car would occasionally stall while driving at slow speeds (when the car, an automatic transmission, was in low gear). Usually I'd be able to start it right back up with no problems. In some cases I'd have to hold the ignition switch for about three seconds. As the weather cooled in the autumn (I live in New England) the problem disappeared. However, in the last couple of weeks the problem has started up again only now I have trouble restarting the car. I have to wait a couple of minutes before it'll start up again. It has the feel of a flooded engine. The car also idles rather low...at around 800 rpm. I don't think it's a battery or alternator because all of the electric apps.(power locks, windows, radio, etc.) work after the car stalls. I'm bringing my car in for regular maintenance but would like to know what to tell my mechanic to look for.
View 2 RepliesMy 07 Honda Accord has an occasional popping and clicking sound. It happens most when I'm in reverse and cutting the wheel into a parallel park. My mechanic thought it was a transmission issue and did a transmission flush...but it's not happening when I'm switching gears and it seems and feels to me like it's more in the body of the car.
View 2 RepliesI recently had a spin out on the ice in my 2001 Honda Oddessy Minivan and had to have the back wheel and front rim replaced. I definitely hit the sidewalk at least once and ended up backward in traffic with the back of my van on the sidewalk. Just after getting the work done I noticed for the first time that my car was having trouble shifting out of park into any other gear when starting and when I had it running but put it in park. I have to either press the brake several times, all the way into the floor to get it to shift out of park or pump it once or twice quickly and when I hear a little click, shift it into gear. Is this a transmission problem? Could it have been caused by my spin out?
View 3 RepliesI own a '96 Honda Accord EX (4 speed transmission) currently with 133,000 miles on it. Last February (2014) I downshifted the car while going up a hill (yes, I now know that was a bad idea) and the subsequent jerk was immediately followed by a check engine light. The code was P0715 for Turbine Speed Sensor Failure; I read up what I could on Google, and brought the car to a Honda Center a couple days later to have a diagnostic run. They said the transmission was still okay and working fine, but recommended a transmission flush to replace all the fluid and clean the filter/pan (I can't remember exactly), which I did. They said the transmission would continue to deteriorate and that I should be aware that it will probably fail at some point, but the flush should buy me some time. (I've since read about transmission flushes as well.)
Fast forward to now, the car is still driving okay and the check engine light has stayed off. The transmission shifts into every gear and has not caused me any issues, but I can tell it's getting jerkier. I've driven Sprinters with terrible transmissions where you can fully feel a 'thud' as it shifts and, my car is not there yet, but it's deteriorating. Work put into the car over the past two years includes replacing 2 wheel bearings, fixing the CV axle, and replacing the spark plugs, with maintenance and the flush it ... (it had only 108,000 miles in 2012 and has since been cross-country twice).
My car stalled one day like I was in a high gear at too low of a speed when i was in neutral. It now acts as if it is in a high gear all the time when I am in neutral. When I press the clutch it will idle like it is supposed to but when i let off it pushes forward slightly then stalls exactly like it would if i was in 4th or 5th gear. When I shift into 1st 2nd 3rd or reverse it dies as if it is in gear but will not move even slightly, when I shift into 4th or 5th it again dies but it but is acting just as I would expect 4th or 5t to at a complete stop i feel slightly more power in 4th which is expected being a lower gear but I also feel 5th pull just like its supposed to. I cannot get it to come out of the high gear it is in even though i can move the stick into the neutral position. It is difficult to get the shifter into 4th or 5th but it will move into the other positions like it should with the same no power result. My clutch is fairly new and i have tried inspecting my sift linkage wit no obvious problems. (1991 honda accord lx 5 spd, 2.2 sohc)
View 2 RepliesA little background information: 2007 Honda Civic EX, 62000 miles, never been in an accident other than a couple bumper breakers, I'm the second owner and bought the car Certified Pre-Owned in 2008. I take pretty decent care of the car -- regular tune ups and oil changes. The check engine light comes on sporadically. It'll be on for a full day, and then it'll disappear, and won't reappear for a week, sometimes more.
Last summer, I got into one of those bumper breakers I mentioned before. I rolled into a car in front of me at about 7 mph when I took my eyes off the road for a moment because a woman swung open her car door next to me as I passed, and it grabbed my attention. Cracked my bumper, knocked off the Honda "H" logo, and otherwise caused cosmetic damage, but no mechanical damage from what I could tell. I didn't have anybody look at it, but since then I have had 2 oil changes, 2 tune ups and an inspection, and nobody noticed any problems. It turns out that my radiator had the slightest ding in it and was causing me to very slowly leak coolant. There were never any signs -- no corrosion, no pools under the car, nothing like that. It wasn't until this week when my car began overheating and my check engine light came on that I realized there was a problem. I had the radiator replaced and the transmission fluid changed because it was pretty well burnt up.
At the mechanic, they hooked up my car to their computer and the on-board computer gave them this error message: "P0848 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure SW (Open or Stuck)". The mechanic tells me that I need a whole new transmission. I am completely in disbelief. At only 62000 miles? Only a year or so removed from when my CPO Powertrain Warranty expired? It's a big pill to swallow. Especially since I'm a relatively poor 30 year old who is getting married in November and don't have a penny to spare.
So, here are my questions for you:
(1) What does this error message mean?
(2) Does it really mean that I need a whole new transmission? If not, what is the recommended procedure to fix the problem...
When I was driving my car the engine was running fine, but all of a sudden there would be no power to the wheels as I was driving. I tried shifting the car down into lower gears, but the car still was just coming to a stop even though I was revving the engine. I was able to limp home because I could turn the car off for about 30 seconds, and when I would start it back up the engine and transmission would work fine together for a few blocks and then I would have the same problem. I did check my transmission fluid, which was low (at the lower dot when hot). Could this problem be fixed by simply changing and filling the transmission fluid? Or do you think it is something else? My car is an automatic with about 114,000 miles. At about 98,000 miles I had a full tune-up and my timing belt was replaced.
View 6 RepliesTook my 2007 Honda Pilot in on Thursday for an oil change and trip inspection to a very reputable mechanic that specializes in Japanese cars. He said he found a small amount of leakage on the rear cover of the transmission (it is a two wheel drive) so he removed the cover, resealed, and refilled the fluid. The evening after I picked it up, as I was driving up a hill, the car started rolling backwards and no gears would engage. Had it towed back to my house.
No fluid in the reservoir and the dipstick smells burnt. Obvious trans fluid on the underside of car. Is the transmission fried? Does he owe me a new transmission? No trans problems in it's history. It has been a great car and I am anal about the maintenance. I have all records since new. Should I have it towed back to him on Monday morning or towed to a dealer? The car has 89,000 mostly highway miles on it.
I have a '98 Civic Dx with 217,000+ miles on it. Last year I had the water pump and timing belt replaced and beginning in February I noticed my antifreeze was disappearing but couldn't find any leaks. One mechanic said it was the water pump, so I had it redone under warranty. The antifreeze is still disappearing and now my mechanic tells me it's the radiator. (Don't you think he would have said that the first time?) It seems that the transmission is starting to go (see below) so I'm wondering if it's worth replacing the radiator or trying to patch any leaks I can find. I've heard such mixed reviews on patching radiator leaks and this mechanic won't do it. The part is cheap and I can probably replace or repair it myself. So, repair or replace?
I've had a few incidents of my car shuddering after I start driving and losing power around the first turn. Sometimes the shudder is worse if I've turned the car on, idled for a few moments and then started driving. The shudder was similar to one time when I had a bad spark plug wire, so thinking it was that I gave my car a tune up-- new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. But two mornings ago it nearly stalled as I was taking the first turn off my street.
Then yesterday morning it nearly stalled after I backed out of my parking space and began driving (I'd sat for a few moments with the car idling before backing out). For a while I've felt like it wasn't really getting full power around the first turn. I don't know how to describe it except that pushing on the accelerator didn't really do anything until the car had completed the turn and straightened out. I haven't had any problems throughout the rest of the day-- it drives just fine. It's only when it's been sitting at least overnight.
I'm in denial about it being my transmission. It has never liked to start when I've down to or below a quarter tank of gas, and someone else who called the show about that was told that the fuel system was probably losing pressure as it sat overnight, which sounds like what happens to mine. Could this be another symptom of that? Or could something in the fuel system be clogged, like the filter? (My Dad had a clogged fuel filter once and his car would lose power on an incline.) Or is this perhaps the beginning of the end for my little friend? I'm at 217k...
I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with about 190k miles on it. About a year ago (175k), we had our Transmission replaced with a re-manufactured transmission from the Honda Dealer. Now almost a year later, we were driving home on the freeway (about 4 hrs of highway driving) when we smelled and saw smoke coming from our hood. No lights or indicators came on. We also started losing power and the RPMs were high.
We pulled over in a gas station and popped the hood. A guy who said he was a mechanic took a look and thought it was the radiator host leak...suggested we add water and limp the rest of the way home. We did this and had no issues for the remaining 40 minutes of driving. The next day we brought it to our normal mechanic (not a Honda dealer) and he said it was transmission fluid ...thought that the transmission fluid that was splattered all over our engine/hood/wheels.
When we took it to the honda dealer (since we were still under warranty for the Honda transmission), they looked at it, cleaned it up and ran tests. They are saying that other than being low 2 qts of Trans fluid, they don't see any leaks/problems with the transmission, even after test driving it. They are wondering if the transmission cap was not tight or left off, causing the fluid to overheat, etc (I'm sure it wasn't left off as we have been driving it for months since our last check up without issue).
They say they can't replace it under warranty unless they can confirm some issue in their diagnostic tests. How can we have 2 qts of transm fluid splatter all over our engine and there not be a problem they can diagnose? Did they not give it enough time (e.g 4 hr long distance drive) to heat up enough to replicate the problem? The question now is...is it safe to keep driving the van (after doing a transm flush) or are we just asking for trouble until the next episode? How can I convince the dealer that there is a problem and have the transmission replaced under warranty?
My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
View 2 RepliesWhen highway driving with the AC on, on a slight incline, my CRv hesitates, and you really have to "punch" the accelerator to maintain speed, which in turn causes a very noticable increase. It's almost like there's a dead spot in the accelerator. Am I destined to just live with this, or can it be remedied?
View 10 Replies