Honda - Cr-v :: Tire Rotation And Balancing
Jan 14, 2013
Understandably, I've been told I need to rotate my tires more frequently. I've also been told that when I have the tires rotated, they should be balanced as well. I have the skills (minimal) to removed a tire from one location and put it on another location, but I don't have the skills or equipment to balance them. Should I, in fact, balance them as well, and if so, how frequently should the rotation/balancing occur? This is a 2006 Honda CR-V with 75k miles on it.
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I just took my 2001 Honda Accord in for an oil change and tire rotation yesterday. When I left the shop, I noticed a wobbly noise coming from the front when I was driving on the highway (40 MPH+). There is no vibration in the steering wheel, but the sound is pretty noticeable. It wasn't there when I got to the shop. I have my tires rotated every 3,000-5,000 miles. Is this simply from uneven tire wear?
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I had alignment & tire balance/rotation done on my 2005 Camry 4-cyl. Going 60 MPH or above, I can feel a slight vibration on the steering wheel.
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I had my tires rotated about 2,500 miles ago with tire balancing and wheel alignment done. After this the car developed strong vibrations at between 55 and 65 mph. When the speed goes up or down from that range the shaking stops. If I am going at a speed higher than 65 mph and brake the car shudders until the speed is below the 55 to 65 range.
I had the VW dealer do another tire balance, but the problem persisted. I then went to a Goodyear tire outlet and had them do a tire balance and then another one about two weeks later. The problem is still there. The Goodyear people suggested running the car for a while and see if it improves. It has not about 2,000 miles later
The VW tech rode with me and said that it was warped rotors that caused the vibration, but if the rotors are warped, should this vibration also be felt for other speeds?
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So I have been noticing a shimmy/bouncing at highway speeds (between 60-80mph) for a couple of months. It started right after I had a local indy tire shop swap my sliver stock wheels for the chrome version of the same wheel I picked up locally.
Funny thing is I did my front brakes last Sunday and after putting the tires back on, the ride felt smoother at highway speeds. I figured perhaps the indy shop didn't torque the wheels properly (which I'm sure they didn't as they didn't ask me the torque spec and didn't look it up, and used an impact gun to tighten bolts). I torqued my front wheels to 103lb by hand after doing front brakes.
This Thursday, I did my rear brakes and torqued the rears to 103lb. On the highway the shaking/bouncing is back and dare I say more noticeable.
Could it be that I did something incorrect when installing the rear wheels? The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 with about 15k miles on them. Look to be wearing evenly.
I have an appt. on Monday to have the tires balanced at Discount Tire. I asked about their machine and he said it's a Hunter which I take to me Hunter Road Force balancing machine. Is there anything particular that I should ask or know prior to going in?
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I found this thread in the Corolla forums and was curious as to what pattern people use here since I will be rotating the tires on my '07 Camry myself for the first time. The manual says to use Pattern D for non-directional tires, but my Civic manual and a few other cars I have looked up suggest using Pattern C, which make more sense to me as it would seem to provide more even wear on both sides of the tire by crossing them to opposite sides of the car.
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Second time I've gotten my tires rotated. 20k miles. It sounds like I drive a lifted 4x4 for almost 2k miles now. Service rep says normal, cause of camber, GTI tires, etc. Goes in Wed for 20k service.
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I had my 20,000 mile tire rotation and 2nd oil change done at 23,500 miles. Service tech suggested I still return around 25,000 for my last free rotation.
Does it make sense to do that, since I'd only have 1500 miles on the current rotation?
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While I was having my tires rotated yesterday, the last floorjack was being lowered just in front of my driver's side rear tire when there was a noticeable hissing sound. The outer lip of the plate on the floorjack caught on the line going to my front suspension and the front of the car went down.
I'm borrowing a picture that Michael posted earlier and hopefully I've labelled the correct items in the picture. His previous red arrows were for pointing out the oval holes in the bottom of the car that can get damaged in towing.
The owner of the shop that did it drove my car slowly to the VW dealer that was within a couple miles. I've allowed them to do a repair to the line that meets VW specs. Some type of male/female brass connection that will save several hundred dollars on the repair that the tire shop will be paying for.
I'm surprised that VW placed the air lines so close to one of the lift points.
Is it possible to cause damage to the air shocks when they are lowered all the way down like that? I'm hoping not. I figured it probably was better to drive the car to the dealership instead of risking any damage that could have been caused by putting it on a flatbed.
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My dealer says F-B and B-F only. Declined to put spare into rotation... 4 tires were rotated @ 5, 10, 15K. Don't see/feel any cupping yet, but would expect that next. Car was aligned around 5K, as was/is not 100% stable in direction, with slight wander. [no accidents/curb hits/pothole damage, etc.] Run 33-34 psi F&R, as rec by dealer [vs specs @ 32 psi]. Only 1-2 total people on board, mostly. At just under 18K on factory Michelins, getting some tire 'yammer' around 45 mph.Do you cross rotate?
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Cross X tire rotation pattern on Avalon as opposed to just rotating from front to rear?
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The 2010 Corolla Manual illustrates on page 329 pattern "D" as if to suggest we have "same size directional" tires. It is my understanding directional tires will have an arrow on the sidewall. If it doesn't have an arrow, it's non-directional and it doesn't matter which way it rotates. I don't see an arrow on my tires. Which of the following patterns are you using?
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Do we have to reprogram our TPMS to register the correct wheel to corner when we rotate our tires side to side?
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So I had a flat a couple weeks ago, finally got around to patching it (professionally) and decided to get a wheel alignment and tire rotation at the same time. No prior problems whatsoever (drove straight as an arrow) but roads in Hawaii suck so I decided to have it done while my car was in. Got my Camry back and it pulled to the right, with the steering wheel a little crooked to the right too. Talk about leaving something well enough alone, which is what I should have done!
Tried to take it back the next day, but they were super busy so I went to another location (same chain) and they said they suspect it could be my tires, but if not, they'll realign. They ended up doing the alignment again. My car pulls less but the steering wheel is crooked to the LEFT instead of right now when driving straight.
Question: Do you think it could be the patched tire? The nail was 1-.1.5" from the sidewall. This tire is on the right rear. Looks fine, and was fine up until I got a nail in it. Right front tire looks fine too.
I asked my mechanic, along with my cousin who worked with cars and did alignments himself in a past life, and they both told me they don't think it's my tire(s). They both told me to take it back and have the alignment redone.
Is it possible to just have two bad alignments at two different locations with two different techs?? The chain I'm going to is locally owned and has been around forever, and my last alignment was from them so I don't know what's going on this time.
* I have Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S tires all around, with about 20K miles on them.
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I drove for a couple days last week and got 60+ mpg (city, well known commute, amenable for pulse&glide). I rotated tires (or rather wheels) this weekend with unchanged tire pressure (~44psi). Today I only got 50 mpg on the very same commute. Is this just a coincident?
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Well, after the October snow storm where it took me 6 hours and alot of sliding around to get home, I decided to get all season tires with good snow traction. I picked up the Hankook Optimo H727 and had them installed at Walmart on 11/21/2011. Right away, my MPG dropped significantly.
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Had my tires rotated yesterday and now the car is pulling noticeably left. On a flat road, if I let go of the wheel I change lanes in about 3 to 4 seconds depending on speed. Also, the faster I am going, the worse the pull feels. Before the rotation, the car would pull very slightly to the right sometimes but only enough for me to wonder if it was pulling or if it was my imagination.
One other detail, the tire that is now on the left front is newer than the others due to a pothole eating the last one. It is the same hankook tire in type and size. Just with less miles on it. It was previously on the front right. I've seen the threads on the pulling issue and the 18 step TSB and all of that but nothing about rotation or the pulling following a specific wheel or tire. Could the rolling resistance of a newer tire really cause that much of a pull?
My issue is I am getting ready to leave for a road trip and can't get in for an alignment or for someone to go through the whole TSB. I think I might switch the 2 front wheels.
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Only had 2 cars with TPMS and the other one couldn't have the wheels rotated. So if I rotate the tires/wheels do I need to get the TPMS reprogrammed since the fronts will be on the back and vice versa?
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My new 2015 Subaru Forester calls for tire rotation every 6000 miles, which seems excessive to me.
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I had my the tires on my 2009 Prius rotated a while back. My car has 36,000 miles on it all on the original tires. It seems like my mileage dropped a bit since doing that. There are so many variables in mileage though, it is hard for me to pin it down to that. Could tire rotation affect my mileage?
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I have a 1.5 year old Forester. I have rotated the tires twice now, and each time I notice some excessive tire noise after the rotation, for the next hundred miles or so. The tires look OK. Is this a sign that I need alignment? That is, the rotation is equalizing some uneven wear due to a misalignment?
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