Honda - Cr-v :: Sluggish When Starting / Clicking When Ignition Turned On
Oct 31, 2011
Yesterday I went out for a few errands, but noticed the car was a little sluggish when starting. So, when I got home, after I turned off the ignition, I tried to start the car again. Just clicking and then nothing. Did that a few times and then just gave up. This morning I decided to try again. At first, just clicking, but then I started to pump the gas pedal and it started fine. I want to have it checked, but what to expect at the repair shop.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2008 Accent, automatic, with 167,000 mostly city kilometers on it. 3 times, yesterday and today, when I turned the ignition on it sounded like it was going to start but didn't catch. When I tried again the second time it started. At first, I thought I just didn't turn the key to the right long enough but with it happening 3 times, I am not so sure.
I called my mechanic and he thought it might be the fuel pump. He suggested I turn it to the right then back 2 times, then start it the third time. I have spent a lot on it lately, new tires in April, transmission fluid, also had to replace the tie rod on one front wheel and bearings on the other. If it is the fuel pump, what happens if I don't replace it soon?
View 4 Replies
I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2002 Passat GLS and when I tried to start my car this morning, it would not start. When I turn on the ignition, the car gives off a loud clicking sound. The interior and exterior light works, the panel light works, and the radio works as well. What might be the problem?
View 4 Replies
I have a 1991 Honda that has a quirk which is driving me nuts. When I turn off the engine, the key won't readily come out. It's especially difficult when the temperature is below 40 degree's. I've replaced the key at a Honda dealer, which my mechanic suggested, but to no avail. I shake the gear shifter repeatedly which doesn't seem to work. I sprayed lubricant into the key hole. It's frustrating to have to sit and wait a couple of minutes to exit my car.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1991 Honda Accord with 250, 000 miles on the odometer.
It has happened a couple times in the past 2 months when the engine fan turns itself on after the ignition has been turned off. The latest incident was a couple days ago when the fan repeatedly turned itself on and off. I discovered by turning on the ignition to the first click would stop this. Engine temperature gauge shows engine operating temperature to be well within normal limits.
Question: why is this happening?
View 13 Replies
I just purchased a used 2012 Honda Odyssey with 88k miles. After not driving it for two days I went out and tried to start it. The powered side doors were working just fine, and all the gauges and indicators seemed to be fine and the power locks worked, but it did not start. There was no noise at all. It was as if the car didn't realize I had turned the ignition. I tried a few times, waited for a few seconds, tried again, and the car started like there had never been a problem. When it started, it wasn't weak. It started like new. The problem sounds a lot like mine [URL] .... except that it then started for me. We have been driving the car for less than a week, and as mentioned, I didn't drive it at all for two days, but it has had no problem starting any other time.
View 6 Replies
On cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
View 16 Replies
At 100k I took my 2004 CR-V in for belated 90k maintenance. Besides the routine stuff, they had to replace the ball joints. They also rotated and balanced the tires, which are about 15k miles old.
Took the car home, and immediately noticed a loud clicking in the right wheel when I turned it hard at slow speeds, parallel parking, etc. Took it back to the shop and was informed that it was a spindle problem. Mechanics said this was merely a coincidence, not a result of their recent work, but nicely charged me only for parts not labor. They had to replace the ABS sensor in the course of this work.
Next day, had to take a long weekend trip, about 500 miles there and back. Half-way through, noticed two things: groaning/clicking noise in brakes at slow speeds, and a slight but detectable vibration through the gas pedal when traveling 30-50MPH. Also a faint "wobble" sound at this speed as though coming from front right tire.
Took it back to the shop: was told that brake rotors were rusted and this was responsible for groaning/clicking--something to do with warping due to the rust + car getting warm from long drive. They lubed up the rotors real good and there is no more sound, though I've not driven it a long distance yet.
BUT, faint vibration in gas pedal and wobble noise at 30-50 persists. Mechanic said that when they rotated the tires, they noted that they had gone "out of round," but thought balancing might bring them back in round. Is it possible that the sound & vibration are just from the tires trying to find their level? Is this the kind of thing where I'm all of a sudden looking at 4 new tires (seems premature)? Any other front-end possibilities? Should I take it to a tire shop? I have found my mechanics pretty good over the past couple of years, but this recent series of visits has made me slightly leery...
View 11 Replies
I have a 98 honda civic with greater than 200,000 miles on it. I've only had it for a couple of months now and for the whole time it has driven great. I do need to change the oil and was getting ready to do that this coming weekend but today when i was driving it, it kind of bogged down then was fine. Then it did it again and just died. I then restarted it and it was fine for a few seconds and i was going in reverse, then it did it again and died again. Now it wont start at all. It turns over but just doesnt start. Also there is like a clicking noise that sounds like its coming from the dashboard on the passenger side.
View 10 Replies
My GA has been sluggishly starting for the last 3 days, usually the first start of the morning then fine the rest of the day. Today is the first day that it has done it during the day. I stopped at Advance Auto on way home and they ran a test on it. I'm attaching the results of it to get your feedback on the possibilities. The battery was replaced in March 2010, the alternator in November 2010.
View 9 Replies
2012 Tig S, 7200 Miles. She seems a tad sluggish when starting from a stop (say read light or breaking to a crawl) .. Once she hits 30-35 MPH she's great. I'm comparing this to a 4cyl 2005 Ford Focus, which is my Wifes old car (the tig is her tenative replacement) .. She stated that freeway/highway is good, just city driving isn't that great.
View 5 Replies
i want to upgrade my wife's Tiguan. She's complained that it feels sluggish especially when starting from a full stop. A bit of a delay when she steps on the gas. Just wanted to get people's thoughts on going stage 1 vs right to stage 2. And if stage 2 do you reccommend anything more than just the diownpipe and the tune?
View 15 Replies
Automatic transmissions! I have a 90 F250 4x 7.5 and E4OD. I have been chasing electrical gremlins, and I'm not sure if these problems are related or not. Symptoms: When starting off in drive, it feels very sluggish, as if it is starting in second gear. Manually putting in first works. When left in drive it will drop all the way into fourth at 20-25 mph. If left in drive, when you turn a corner and step into the throttle the trans will rapidly shift up and down causing a surging effect. Manually moving the shift down into second stops this. I have been considering swapping the PCM from an 89 7.5 E4OD parts truck I have, to see if that cures any of the problems.
View 4 Replies
We are going through probably the overall coldest winter I have ever been through. I was wondering is it not out of the question for the cold to impact the power steering on a car. I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and have noticed when starting out in the morning my steering is a bit more sluggish/stiffer and then has the day wears on it is back to it's normal self. It has depending on the temps out said taken a few minutes up to a half hour or so. I have never had this issue before, but again have never had to deal with so many sub zero nights and days in winter....
View 8 Replies
My 2011 F150 5.0 was bought used a year ago, and ran like new. A few months ago, several things started acting up.
* clicking at idle. Just a tick-tick-tick-tick kinda like a diesel. I swear it just started, but the dealer tells me it's "normal".
* Oil - I'm "losing" about a half quart a month. No leaks. 1500 miles after a change, it's dingy. (not dirty just brown) Dealer tells me it's "normal" that these trucks consume a little oil and that it will get dirty.
All that I could ignore but this is what bothers me:
The truck seems to struggle, mildly, to maintain speed on hills. It'll drop to 1k rpms before downshifting. Just a pig. Of course if I stomp it to the floor I get a good response, but it is just sluggish and wimpy when driving "normally". Also, when maintaining speed, there's a barely noticeable missing/slipping happening. When I pull a couple thousand pounds it really struggles.
This is happening. Three dealers tell me there's nothing wrong with the truck. After pressing the first dealer they admitted they never drove the truck. The second dealer called me to pick it up because nothing was wrong and also admitted to not having driven it. After I demanded they drive it, they called back still saying nothing is wrong. "The computer would show it if there was a problem." The third dealer has it now, drove it this morning, guess what? "There's nothing wrong, maybe you can come and show us."
I cannot believe the industry has lost the ability to diagnose vehicles beyond what a computer tells them. Do techs not check compression or ignition or fuel pressure any more? Seems to me a valve issue for example could be the cause of all my symptoms, or fuel delivery, or weak spark, none of which would show up on the freaking computer.
Coyote 5.0 engine and the 6R80 trans.
View 2 Replies
Having issues with mostly in town driven sedan re sluggish starts. Replaced battery about a year ago. Seems to be related to fuel delivery? Wife has said pumping the gas pedal a few times prior to start up works.
View 12 Replies
I recently replaced the 181K mile valve-burned engine in my 2001 Honda CR-V with a 40K mile engine from Japan. Since the swap idle is slightly erratic, acceleration from a stop is sluggish and check engine light indicates "P1508 error code" which is "Idle Air Control valve circuit failure." Also have an issue with the A/C cycling on and off rapidly when idling that goes away as soon as the engine rpm is slightly increased. New OEM IAC valve is costly so I hesitate to replace it. All parts other than the engine itself are from my original engine in my CR-V.
View 3 Replies
So I've got a 2010 Honda Civic Sedan. Recently the door locks on all the doors but the driver door have become weak. In that when you hit the lock or unlock button they may or may not fully lock/unlock. And if you listen they sound like motors that are not getting enough power. I had the battery and alternator checked and they both come back fine. Initially I thought it was just the passenger door but after more investigation it seems to be all but the drivers door.
View 7 Replies
This weekend I stopped my car, put it in park and turned it off (or so I thought). I was in a hurry so I didn't really look at the dash, I just left. When I returned to my car a few minutes later, it was still on. The dash was all lit up, the running lights were on, the stereo was searching for my phone, etc.
I put the key back in, turned it on and turned it to off position and the car shut off.
I'm going to speak to the mechanic when I take it in for an oil change next week, but it's a little worrisome.
View 8 Replies
I have a Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. 2002. It has sluggish acceleration and hesitation problems. I put in new plugs and that improved it some. My mechanic says I should pay him to clean the fuel injectors. What will work best? What needs to be cleaned? Would new plug wires work? Gumout? Big differences in cost.
View 2 Replies
