Honda - Cr-v :: SSSSS Sound From Rear Driver Side Wheel While Driving
Dec 30, 2011
My car (2003 Honda CR-V, 54000 mile) started to make "sssss" sound from the rear-driver side wheel while driving, but not so severe at the moment. I checked the wheel and found that the pad was worn out: metal to disk. The other three pads are a little bit (2-3mm) left over. I visited some franchise mechanic shop and was told that the pads, rotors, and calipers need to be replaced.
But I'm wondering about the caliper replacement. Do you think that my car makes "ssss" sound when brakes not being applied, which possibly means a stuck piston, so the calipers also need to be replaced? I got brake fluid flushed every 3 years, for your information. I think that some air in the side caused by poor recent bleeding might cause the symptom or it might be a normal situation, which means the caliper itself is fine.
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I just started hearing a ticking sound in my drivers side rear wheel. It sounds like a pebble in the tire at low speeds and as you get faster it makes loud road noise in the car, almost like a whoosh whoosh sound. Took it to a local auto shop and they said it was a stuck brake caliper and possible wheel bearing. After driving I felt each rotor and that one was considerable hotter then the others. Everything else about the car is fine, drives well with no vibrations and brakes well. Jacked the wheel up to see if the wheel was loose from a bad bearing, but it was not loose. The shop, however, can not locate a caliper saying it was on national backorder. Does this sound like a bad caliper and is it normally hard to find parts? I'm trying to avoid going to a dealer because of price, but that maybe may only option. The car has 90,000 miles.
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I have noticed only recently a strange "ping" sound that is coming from the rear driver side wheel. The sound is exactly what two pieces of rebar sound like hitting together. The car only makes the sound once while slowing down at around 3mph and once again while accelerating at the same speed. The should can not be heard under heavy breaking however. I have jacked the car up and pushed on the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock and 3 and 9 oclock to see if it was a bad wheel bearing and it was not. It is a 2010 Subaru STI with 45000 miles. I am wondering what this could be.
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2008 Honda Civic LX. The car has approximately 37,000 miles on it, most of which are highway miles. I live about 400 miles from home and thus, most of those miles have been accumulated from the 4 years of me driving back and forth to school during breaks, etc.
Recently, I've noticed a slight squeak from the front driver's side wheel. It's rhythmic with the rotation of the car and is only audible with the window down (you can't hear it when the window is up). It's most prevalent at really slow speeds, when the car is just rolling forward and then dissipates as I accelerate.
I just had it in for service about two months ago, the usual stuff: I had the oil changed and the tires rotated at the local Honda dealership. I still have the inspection paperwork they did on it and everything checks out. The brakes were shown to be just fine (7mm on the front two) and it's also not coming from the engine itself, thus ruling out the belt, etc.
To make things even more complicated the noise comes and goes. Last night I drove around trying to isolate it but found no consistency. It started right away as I drove away from my apartment, but then randomly went away only to reappear again, this time barely audible as I parked.
Other details: I park the car outside, and I live up in Northern Minnesota. It's gotten cold recently, and with the wind we get up here the dust really gets kicked up. The noise just started appearing last weekend as well.
I've done some preliminary research, and would hope that after 37,000 miles the car's front bearing isn't going bad. My game plan for today was to get it washed, in case there's some build up on the wheel, and then try and spray it with 4D-40.
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic and just recently, when the car turns right, a grinding sound emanates from the wheel.It sounds like the break pads rubbing up against the disk but this only happens on turns or if I stop, and put the car in reverse briefly.Could this be an issue with the calipers or would this likely be a wore out wheel bearing?I have heard a faint whistle coming from the tire when driving down the freeway but that is also intermittent and I don't hear the occasional whirring sound typical of a worn out bearing.I'll pull the wheel off today and check it out but I thought I'd bring it up and see what the group thinks.
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My driver side airbag suddenly deployed while driving - Honda refuses to acknowledge this as a safety issue and will not cover the repair expense.
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I took my car in the other day for 4 new tires at 8am I drive home 2 miles from the place. I work nights so I sleep all day. As I was going to work at 11pm I noticed it sounded like the front drivers side tire was rubbing up against the car when I turn the wheel from left to right. I took it back to the place I got the tires from. I thought something might be adjusted wrong or something. They call me to tell me that the tires are fine and the problem is that I need a new power steering pump. There was no noise or steering problem previous to me getting the tires.
I took it to pep boys (the only place open last night). They say the pump needs to be replaced along with racks and pinions..etc. I ask if the leak can be slowed or stopped with one of those stop leak products and they say no. The fluid just drains right out. Is there something the guy that put my tires on could have messed up to cause this problem?
I spent a lot for the tires and within 5-10 miles later this problem starts. The car has over 250000 miles on it and I cant justify spending that much money to repair it but at the same time Im in a bind financially (medical bills, divorce) to get another car right now. I realize even if they did mess it up when they put the tires on, they wont admit to it anyway.
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Replaced my rotors today. When I was done, I spun each wheel to see if there was interference. Passenger wheel spins freely. Driver's wheel makes a scraping sound (brake pads?) and stops pretty quickly.Which one is wrong or bad?
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I bought my R from Carmax about a month ago with about 26K miles on it (and, needless to say, I am in love with the car). However, after a week or two of driving, I noticed a squeaking/rattling sound coming from the front driver's side wheel well area when I let off the brake. It is loud enough for me to hear it with the windows rolled up, and it continues for several seconds at least after I let off the brake (maybe longer, but I can't hear it over the exhaust).
The rattle sort of sounds like it may have something to do with the turning of the wheel, so I thought it might be related to caliper vibration or something (not that I really have any clue. At all.). Anyhow, I took my R to Carmax to have them look at it because it is still under the 30 day warranty, and I figured I would start there before taking it to the local VW dealership. I got a call a few minutes ago from the service guy, who said the following:
"Our technician took a look at your car and determined that the sound is coming from your suspension. However, it is a normal sound and there isn't anything that needs to be fixed."
I argued with him and said that the noise may or may not be immediately harmful to my car, but it is certainly not NORMAL, and something needs to be tightened, lubricated, or replaced. He said he would have his tech look at it again.
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I have been noticing a noise from the driver side back wheel. Like a buzzing sound. Is this normal? The reason why I am asking is I received the car like that and I do not know if something is wrong or is just normal operation. The noise can be heard while the car is parked so i do not thing it has anything to do with breaks or such.
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I have a 10th anniversary Honda Accord. When you apply the emergency brake, the passenger rear wheel brake does not engage. This car appears to have 2 master cylinders, but I could not find any documentation to confirm. Is this correct? The reservoir on the passenger side is way above the max mark. I'm thinking this is somehow related to the e-brake issue.
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When I slam on my brakes there is a grinding noise coming from the front driver side wheel and the smell of rubber. Also when I do a u-turn the same thing happens. I own a 1999 Honda accord v6....
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Just took my r on its first road trip. About 1k miles straight. Reached the destination and I noticed smoke coming from the drivers side wheel well. Popped the hood and seems to have com from the rear of the engine. It dissipated fast. 15k on the odometer.
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My 1988 Standard 2WD Toyota pickup truck has intermittent scraping in rear driver side wheel. It only occurs after slowing down from higher speeds and making a turn. It seems to happen IN the turn. The scraping pulses and is in time with the speed of the truck. Once it starts scraping, I stop for a minute, then it goes away.
This makes me think it is my rear brake drum, overheating and locking up. I've jacked up, in neutral, with handbrake OFF and both rear wheels have extreme resistance when I turn them by hand. I also jacked the front to compare the resistance of the front wheels, and there is nearly none. Not sure if this is normal since it is RWD.
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Have a 2000 Forester with 114K. Had to replace driver's rear wheel bearing at 100k & again at 110k; when replacement bearing started to fail, ABS light came on because wheel was not spinning true! Replaced passenger's rear wheel bearing at 105k (this one is getting noisy now).
Hard to believe I got 2 "bum' bearings! Not a difficult repair, but this will be 4 bearings in less than 2 years. The car's driven on paved roads & with little load, so it's not from harsh road conditions or heavy loads.
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After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
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OK car is 2010 Camry LE with about 48000 miles.
there is a LOUD squeaking noise coming from my drivers side wheel when driving. When I press the brakes then the noise goes away. I took the wheel off to duplicate the noise by turning the rotors but I couldn't. maybe I couldn't turn it fast enough though. Its not the brake/rotor shield either.
At first it was a slight squeak but now its getting really loud. embarrassing loud. Could the possible issues be calipers, brake shims, cv, axle?
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I've been having this ongoing clunk in the front of my 06 Avalon for about a month now. When I slightly hit the brake i'm getting almost a metal on metal clunk sound from right in front of the drivers side wheel area, or possibly on the other side wheel well area, and not sure if its related but a popping noise when i turn my wheel a certain way it seems.
Replaced:
Both CV axles
Both Rotors
Both transmission mount and engine mount (left and right side)
Dog Bone torque bar on top
Drivers side caliper
Control arms
Struts were replaced 6 months ago, and reused old mounts, so I took it out and replaced the strut mount with the bearing on passenger side only.
Control arms have been replaced 4 or 5 times in 6 months because they keep cracking, they are being installed correctly and still having the issue, they're slightly cracked right now (many tiny little rips in the rubber rear bushing of the front control arms) perhaps this is the problem and they're flexing too far? They're Dorman and ordered off of amazon. I have 2 replacement ones arriving tomorrow and will throw them in.
124k miles. I have had multiple shops look at it and cant figure it out, they said everything is tight. One shop said it was internal transmission.
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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I just bought a 2007 LS460 with 90K miles on the clock. It replaces my 2006 LS430, which I loved, but it was getting long in the tooth.
So far, I have fixed the wind noise issue on the pass. side and the only remaining issue is this clicking in the driver rear wheel when the forward or reverse load is first applied.
So, to explain, every time I come to a stop or go from forward to reverse, I hear one or two clicks once I apply the gas. It sounds like some metal part is settling in place. The sound is not there once under way and there is no other noise at all.
The shop I went to spent couple of hours looking for the cause, listening with mechanics stethoscopes, feeling by hand, while the car was in the air with the wheel off and came up with either a rear hub or rear axle on its way out. It is hard to pinpoint the exact source because the click or metal ping is transferred to all the metal components of the assembly and there are plenty of them there.
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