Honda - Cr-v :: Rear Brakes Won't Stop Squeaking After New Drums And Shoes
Jun 16, 2014
I took my car in about three months ago when brake indicator started squeaking in the rear. Shop told me that the drums, shoes and wheel cylinders needed replacing. After spending a few hundred replacing all those parts, the squeaking began. It's a kind of rhythmic squeak that starts towards the end of braking. the rate varies with the speed of the car, so it definitely seems to be coming from the brakes. I took it in not long after. They said they only heard a clicking noise, and that was because the brakes were mis-adjusted. They re-adjusted it. I drove it home. The squeaking is still there. This also happens a lot more when it's heated up so maybe that's why they didn't hear it in the first place.
I take the car back. They said the drum has been warped. They replace the drums. I take it home. Still squeaking a few days later, and I feel the brake pedal pulsating now. I take it back in. They say the issue is from the front brake rotors being warped. I get these replaced elsewhere with ceramic pads. Squeaking is still there.
I take it back in to the original shop because I'm certain it's from the rear. They look at it again and say the drums are warped, again, and that they'd never seen anything like it. They turn the drums. (and receipt says there will be no more warranty on the rear drums... what?)
Unsurprisingly, squeaking did not stop, not even the day after. I took it to a different shop. They spent all day on it and drove it around with me and their final word is that the reason for the squeaking is cheap parts. They recommended I call the original shop and ask for factory parts and offer to pay the difference for the parts.
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My rear brakes on my 20th are warped and are squeaking like crazy when i come to a stop. I've never had to look at brakes so I don't know what to look for. What are some good replacement rotors /pads for the rear. I just use the car for daily driving nothing crazy.....
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I am having a issue with my 07 accent. Had front rotors and pads replaced because they needed to be. Clicking continued. Had drums and shoes replaced last month. Clicking went away for a few weeks. Recently started back up just the other day. The clicking is only when applying the brake and it sounds like it is coming from the right rear drum. It doesn't interfere with stopping, but it s so annoying and brakes shouldn't make that kind of noise anyway.
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I didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4 4.6 triton V8 regular cab, I would like to ditch the rear drum brakes in favor of disk brakes. is this an easy bolt on project? I do know that 2003 f150's had rear disk brakes and was wondering if i bought those parts if the procedure would be fairly easy. I know i would have to take a check valve out of the master cylinder to gain pressure to the rear.
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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I have just purchase a used one 2 weeks ago. I bought it from a local dealer (Longo Toyota). After I got the car home for a day it started to make noises when i brake. If the brake pedal is depress about half way it will make a squeaking noise when it comes to a stop. So i bought the car back in to the dealer and all they did was flush the system and reboted the computer. They said this is normal for some pruis to make a noise when the vehicle comes to a stop and it should not be a safety concern.
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I have a 2007 Chevy HHR. A couple of weeks ago I had to change the caliper on the driver's side of the car. I had some squeaking after, but bled the brakes and the squeaking went away. The other day I took the caliper off and painted it. I have custom wheels and you can see the caliper plainly, it was rusted so I painted it. Now I am getting the squeaking again, but it stops when I apply the brakes. I bled them again, but still the squeaking. This is driving me crazy. Could it be the "chirper" that is dragging on the rotor? Also I want to add, it squeaks until I get up to about 45 mph. Then it stops. And as I said, it stops when I apply the brakes.
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So originally I was told it was my front brakes going bad, which was the case. To address the issue, I replaced the rotors and pads awhile back and the noise disappeared for a bit. Fast forward a month or so ago and I hear an on-and-off squeaking noise when the brakes are applied. It does not happen every time. Usually when I ease onto the brakes to a slow stop.
Figuring it could be my pads going bad for whatever reason, I decided to check my brake pads and rotors again. No odd signs of damage on the rotors and by the looks of it there was still plenty of pad left. I then sprayed some brake clean assuming it could be dust but there wasn't much.
I have not touched the drums yet but I'm thinking it could possibly be the drums or a bad bearing? The car is a 2012 with 38k miles which is the reason I'm doubtful of it being a bad wheel bearing. What could it be?
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I have a '13 GTI Autobahn Edition...
40K miles on it, and the rear brakes are squeaking.
I have some new rotors and pads picked out, but i dont know if i have the Bosch or the Girling rear calipers...
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I've replaced the brakes that weren't in that bad of shape anyways and even replaced one of the rotors as it was under federal regulations. I've even put the brake squeak goop on the back of the pads and it keeps squeaking and squeaking and it's driving me insane. Am i missing something here? I don't here any other super duty's squeaking on the road.
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My husband bought a 1997 Ford F150 and the seller said he changed the brake lines, but the back brakes have dragged on takeoff since he bought it. Just put new shoes on it and it's still doing the same thing, but now the drums are getting hot. Is it possible that the seller got the brake line backwards and that might make the back brakes drag?
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I've had my Accent for a year and a half and now it has about 23k miles on it. I noticed that whenever I would apply the brakes, and the lift my foot off the pedal, I would hear a squeak . . . kind of like a squeaky door. It would happen every time I would lift off the brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the pedal itself, then I rolled down the window and realized it was coming from my rear drums.
So I took the rear drums off which was a PITA to get them off, and used some brake cleaner and white lithium grease on the backing plates of the shoes and on the springs, and the squeak is gone!
I suspect this is probably an issue with drums since it's a relatively closed system and brake dust tends to accumulate in there. Any good technique to remove the rear drums, other than using a hammer to tap it loose?
Here's a pic of the rear brakes with the drum off.
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I have a 2000 F350 4X4 with a V10 under the hood and a 5 speed manual transmission. It has a heavy western hauler bed, and a dual tired rearend. The truck has disc brakes all the way around that work great. I bought the truck used and immediately replaced all the disc brake pads as well as the seperate parking brake shoes and I had the parking brake drums turned. My problem is the parking brake shoes won't hold the truck at all and never have even when they were new. The parking brake shoes seem very small to me for a truck this size and weight. I have adjusted them as tight as I can with out causing them to drag when they are released. Is this a common problem for this type of parking brake on this type of truck? Is there something I am over looking or need to do to perhaps improve the parking brake? Would it be possible to splice some sort of "locking" valve into the brake lines going to the disc brakes to perhaps hold them engaged when I park the truck? I have a good idea how air brakes work, so I suppose this "locking" valve would work like that except basically opposite of a locking air brake valve, if that makes any sense.
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I changed over to summer tires today on my 1999 4wd F350 diesel . While the front tires were off of the ground, I tried rotating the wheels by hand to see what the resistance was like. I was surprised at how stiff they were. It would take three fingers to rotate the wheel and as soon as I stopped applying pressure the wheel stopped turning. I pulled the rims off and found that the calipers appeared to be contacting the rotors and causing resistance.
My last rig was a 1960s 4wd F250 that had calipers that could be adjusted manually. I kept these adjusted so the calipers were almost touching the rotors. I could spin the rims with one finger and the wheel would turn for 30 seconds or so until coming to a stop. Is this normal?
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I have no experience with drum brakes. I have no clue how long they are good for and what to look for in terms of wear. I assumed last week that with 226K miles on the car that the shoes must be reaching the end of their life. I went on Ebay and bought the spring kits and new shoes.
The last time I inspected the shoes was when the car had 100K miles on it. They didn't look too bad. When I started to replace the shoes after just buying all of the parts they looked almost the same as they did when the car had 100K on it. The rear facing shoes are about 5mm thick and the forward facing shoes at the thinnest part near the middle are 3mm thick. The specs in the maintenance manual give 5mm normal and 1 mm minimum.
Since I already have all of the parts and can't return them should I replace the shoes anyway? The manual says if the shoes show uneven wear to replace them. The rear facing shoes have even wear from top to bottom while the forward facing shoes are thicker on the ends and are thinner in the middle. The only issue that I have with the rear brakes is with the parking brake. I have the parking brake cable adjusted all the way and it will barely hold the car in place while in neutral. The shoes that I purchased are made by Wagner and being brand new are not even all the way across. They are also only 4mm thick.
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So my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
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My c is about 5 12 months old now, and the rear brake drums are already covered in rust.
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I just replaced the rear brake shoes and they seem really tight to the drum on the left side. Right side was liitle tight but OK. Self adjuster is screwed all the way in so I'm not sure why this happened.
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Brake rear drums overheating on My LC 80 series '90 GX model has been having reoccurring left side rear overheating after driving for 2-3 hours in traffic. It has been worked on many times since the lastest attempt both sides heated to about 100-110+F on the rim with the right one the hotter. The wheel cylinders have been replaced, the brake shoes, bearings and seals on the left side in the hub with the springs, self adjuster and cable in the drum, the front disc pads also. There has been some engineering: welding on the lh rear axle diff tube which was done. The problem stressed out the last mechanic. He wants to replace the master cylinder next. Remove self-adjuster mechanisms is it a possible fix?
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My Treg is in the shop at the moment to have some squeaks and rattles looked at - and I was expecting to get it back on Monday this week. However, was told on Tuesday by the garage that the engineers had discovered that the rear handbrake shoes had completely disintegrated and that they needed to replace them. Now
a) I don't make a habit of driving around with the handbrake on, and
b) my car has only done 6,000 miles
So what's going on? To cap it all, the parts are on back-order from Germany. Which means it will likely be two weeks before I get my car back. This is starting to get on my nerves. It feels like my Treg is in the garage more than out of it and I'm beginning to regret my purchase.
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