Honda - Cr-v :: Radiator Fans Run For 5 Seconds And Then Off For 20 Seconds All The Time
Jan 25, 2014
My independent mechanic says my radiator fan and AC fan are cycling too much. The dealer says they are not. I know it started about 6 months ago and that I get 2 miles per gallon less now. If the heat, defrost selector is in any position it happens as long as the fan control in not on off.The fans run for 5 seconds and then are off for 20 seconds. The independent says the AC has refrigerant but doesn't know what is causing it. It happens at all outside temperatures. It happens at all car temperatures. (Just started, been driving for an hour etc.)
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A few days ago I was driving around. I get back in my car and when i turn it on no air blows and the radiator fans aren't working at all. My car hasn't overheated but have stopped driving until I can figure the issue out. I have since replaced the fuse box on top of the battery to no avail. I was thinking that it could possibly be the fan control module but in all the posts I am reading not one says that theirs don't work, they just keep running. So is there something else i should be looking at?
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Both my radiator fans run all the time, even if the engine is cold. Soon as I fire it up, even if it's 0 degrees, they are running. To be clear, as expected, the fans do not run if the car is off.
Based on these symptoms, what components could be the culprit?
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Why recently the fan comes on when I start the car, then a few seconds later it turns off, then a few seconds later it's on regardless of outside temp or engine temp? Is this simply caused by a malfunctioning green coolant temp sensor? What type of electrical Gremlin causes our cooling fans to cycle "on" and then "off" every three seconds?!
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I'll provide as much info as possible concerning an all too common problem with these cars. The radiator (passenger side) fan will run for a few seconds when the AC is turned on, then it will shut off. It does not come on when the car is up to temperature. The AC condenser (driver's side) fan runs normally. Steps I have taken so far are as follows:
A. Replaced the radiator fan -- no joy.
B. Replaced the coolant temperature sensor -- no joy.
C. Replaced the thermostat -- no joy.
Coolant level is normal and there are no leaks in the system. The temperature gauge however, never rises above cold.
My questions are:
1. What are the next step(s) to solving the radiator fan problem?
2. Is there a separate sensor for the temp gauge, other than the one in the thermostat housing and if so, where is it located?
3. Since I live in AZ where it never gets very cold, I'd be perfectly fine with having the radiator fan run whenever the engine is running. Is there a way to wire it so it's always on with the ignition?
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My 2003 camry LE 4 cyl cooling/radiator fans stay on all the time. As soon as I turn the ignition key both radiator fan start to spin even though the car is cold and not on. I checked all the relays and fuses. Checked the voltage on the coolant sensor harness with ignition switch on, there is no 5v or the green pin is not grounded. I am clueless where to go next.
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I have an 05, 2.0 TDI which recently got a a PO118 fault. My mechanic replaced the green top sensor with one with a blue top (having been told that the green top sensors have been updated to blue). I am still getting an occasional PO118 fault but now the auxiliary (a/c) fan or the radiator starts running within a few seconds of start up, A/C on or not. SO, bad sensor, wrong sensor or something else entirely?
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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B5.5 2001. When I am giving her gas you feel her stutter. But its not like a misfire stutter. Its more like a lose of power. Its almost like shes switching from boast to naturally aspirated. These stutters can also last a few seconds at a time. Where to start looking?
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We love our Treg, but I am not happy about the clatter (like not lube for a second or two) when starting in the morning. Temps are warm this time of year. Otherwise, everything OK.
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Just got a 2000 Accent DL 3 weeks ago. Every time that I try to put gas in it the nozzle clicks off about every 10 seconds. Is this normal for a Hyundai? (this is my first). If not, how to fix the problem?
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I have a 2006 Sonata GLS with the 3.3L V6 and close to 230,000 miles. A few months ago I noticed that my crank time at starting was longer than typically - it has steadily gotten worse.
Now the crank time is close to 8 - 10 seconds. (Which might not seem like much but trust me, it is).
I suspected that the fuel pump was faulty, however, once started - it runs great.
I put a pressure gauge on the fuel pump outlet and found that it only kicks the pump on when the car is cranking, the fuel pump does not kick on when the key is in the "on" position. Once the vehicle starts, it seems to be drawing fuel.
The pump has all sorts of pressure, I am not worried about that.
I decided to change the Fuel pressure regulator valve thinking that maybe it wasn't holding pressure - That didn't seem to do anything.
Do I need to change the entire Fuel Pump Assembly?
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1996 GMC Jimmy SLS. I've looked at the "starting issue" threads in this forum but none are quite the same as mine. When you initially try to start the Jimmy (cold or warm), it seems to just crank for 20-30 seconds before it even tries to fire. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Battery is 2 months old, and so is the alternator. What about the relays or starter. It's not an intermittent problem either. This happens EVERY time you start the vehicle. The jimmy sat for a good while before we bought it, but would that cause the starting issue? It seems to run fine after it starts, but hesitates (stumbles)a little coming up off idle when its warm.
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I have a 2003 ford explorer sohc 4.0l , that starts only with the gas peddle pushed to the floor and will only run for a couple of seconds at a time. Just replaced all the timing chains and tensioners. It has 145 lbs compression, and 60 psi fuel pressure. No codes on the computer.
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My Superduty will randomly squeel for a few seconds or just one. It seems to happen randomly. The hub doesn't have play.
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My son drives a 99 Honda Accord with over 180k miles.Today as he turned a corner, the lights dimmed and the gauges baled to zero and then all went back to normal- happened within seconds. No loss of steering or braking control.
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I had major tune up on my vehicle. First I had the timing belt and accessory belts replaced including of course the water pump. I also had the shocks replaced. My question is now everytime I start the car I would hear a screeching noise for several seconds and also when I engaged the a/c. Furthermore, in regards to my shocks when I drive over 60 mph my steering wheel begins to vibrate tremendously.
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My 2004 CRV sometimes hesitates to start and twice now has stalled seconds after starting. When driving it feels as if it is dragging, like the brake is on or the car is in wrong gear (automatic). I just got a new battery a month ago. Mileage is 197K. I am told it could be the starter or alternator and that it will be costly. Could this be the problem or could it be something else?
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My Honda Civic 98 starts funny. It will hesitate about 3-5 seconds before cranking and sometimes after starting the starter will grind momentarily before letting go.
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Honda accord( 2005), Engine lights off and on, Radio goes off a few seconds and then reboots by itself , ABS lights off and on, car still runs, power seems to be down slightly when engine lights comes on , stalled twice, but restarted right away. Relay switch replaced, PCM replaced( Diagnosis suggested) , problem continues.What should I check next ?
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For about the last 6 months or so I get a audio static for about 10-12 seconds every time I turn on the engine. Ditto after I turn off. I am using factory speakers, the head unit was replaced by previous owner. There has been no issue with the audio other than this one. I do live in an extreme weather area: +35C to -40C, but I don't think that should have anything to do with this. Is this a bad ground issue? In that case where do I find the ground cable and how to properly make the ground connection? Or is this something else?
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