Honda - Cr-v :: Loud Thumping And Grinding Sound - Rear Brakes Rusted
Nov 1, 2014
In February 2014 I purchased a 2011 Honda CRV. I often travel and am gone for about a week. Every time I come back the rear brake are rusted. They have a loud thumping and grinding sound. I immediately took the car back to Honda dealership (2 time) both times they 'shaved' the roaters. I then contacted Honda headquarters to report the issue. They told me to deal with the dealership and take it to a local mechanic for other opinions. Car Talk will be my second opinion. Honda dealership told me that this is just the way it is. This is my third Honda, I have NOT had this problem before.
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I get a rhythmic thumping sound from my right front wheel when braking. The sound gets slower as the car slows, and when very slow sounds more like a grind than a thump. I can feel the vibration through the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, and had my wheel bearings replaced -- fixed the problem, but after about a year the sound came back. Just had the car inspected and brakes are in good shape (at least those parts checked out by the state inspection). Could it just be that I need to get the wheel assembly tightened up? (It's a '99 Honda Civic with about 145K on it, if that matters)....
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I was driving my son to Mygym this morning and everything was completely normal, but when I got onto the highway for the last 5 minutes of the drive my car started making a loud fast rhythmic thumping sound. I thought it was my tire and slowed down to stop... and then in stopped. So I went a little faster and as soon as I hit 50, it started again. I slowed down and drove the rest of the way to my sons class and looked at my tires and they looked fine to me (I have no idea what a tire should look like, but I can tell if one is very flat... I think). I also looked under the car for any obvious debris or whatever and didn't see anything.
We had our class and when I got back on the highway and accelerated to 50, it started back up again, so I slowly drove to our exit. By the time we were nearly home I wasn't even thinking about the problem anymore, but in the 45 zone near our home it started thumping again... sure enough, I was going 50. I am also wondering if it is safe to drive my car as long as I stay under 50? I have no other means of transportation and we need to go out pretty often (daily) for classes and therapies for my son.
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We discovered that our 99 mercury Mountaineer had bad rotors. last night I hooked up a trailer and was going to work with a friend move a couch when I heard a loud grinding sound. I turned around and determined it was coming from the wheel. I purchased a new set of pads and started to change the pads. In the process I found a broken sway bar connector. I changed this as well. It still felt bad and there was a sound when I braked.
I took it to pep boys for a free brake inspection. They pointed out that the rotors needed to be replaced. I did not let them do it because I can not afford that right now. The car is a secondary not a daily driver. My wife says we shouldn't drive it at all. I say we can still drive it and expect I will have to replace the brake pads sooner than normal and replace the rotors when we can, later. My wife insists we will do more damage if we drive it as it is. I say what's the difference we need to replace the rotors anyway.
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I've got an 03 Camry (211K mi.) with front and rear disk brakes. I have a pulsing/grinding sound from the rear brakes. I think the pulse is from the run-out of the disk/rotor. Took it to a Toyota dealership last year and they pulled apart, cleaned and lubricated the parking brake assemblies on both sides. Brakes ran quiet for about 3 months and then the noise came back. When the climate is dry, it makes all kinds of noise. When it's humid (above 80%) or raining it's quiet. It still stops good and there is no pulling to one side or another, so I figure my calipers aren't leaking.
I bought the car used a little over 3 years ago and don't know when the last brake job was done. I was going to replace the front and rear disks and pads and inspect the calipers for cracked cups or seals. I was talking to an old school mechanic and he said something about opening the bleeder line(s) when I compressed the cups or I'd damage the ABS control. I looked at my manual and it said nothing about this. I'm not looking to replace the ABS controller because of a silly mistake on my part. Looking for info about cracking the bleeder when compressing a caliper??
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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I had a super loud metallic scraping and clanking noise when I was backing out of my driveway the other night. It was so loud I though my exhaust was dragging or something.
It turned out to be a rock trapped between the heat shield and rear brake disk. I pressed the heat shield away from the disk a bit and the rock fell out. It's kind of crazy that such a little rock caused such a loud sound.
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Recently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
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I have a 2005 Camry XLE. Since past few months I have started hearing a strange grinding / thumping noise from the front passenger side wheel. It can be clearly heard at slow speed and almost sounds like the wheel is lopsided and is rubbing against something. As the car picks up speed, the frequency picks up and the sounds disappears eventually.
So, I figured it must have been because the car had hit a curb few months ago and must have bent the rim. I had the wheels looked at while getting rotation and balancing done and was told that there is no rim damage. The sound went down a little after rotating the wheels but is still there. The mechanic doesn't think that it is the bearing because the sound disappears after moderate speeds. So, trying to figure out what could be causing the noise?
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The sound system in my 2008 LS 460 suddenly stopped and a loud thumping noise comes up in all speakers even if the radio is turned off. There is no music at all only that loud noise. Bluetooth does not work as well as command voice and the GPS guiding system. I had to remove the fuse to stop the thumping sound. To answer my telephone I must pull on the side of the road and turn off the motor. Car dealership said that it is the first time they see that. The car is scheduled to be looked at in a couple of days.
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I have a 2006 Pontiac Montana SN6. Last summer my brother took me to his favorite outback place in Arizona via 8 miles of dirt roads. When we were almost back to the pavement I heard a loud, low pitched, (a low "B") thumping sound. I stopped, thinking some part of the suspension was loose, but couldn't see anything. I've seen 6 mechanics since and still have the thump when we cross a bump. Yesterday a mechanic decided it was the front of the gas tank hitting the floor of the car, and he pushed the tank to show it made the low-pitched thumping sound. Now it is 10 times worse.
It happens only when the driver's side rear wheel goes over a bump. It didn't used to be every bump, just the significant ones. Now it includes less significant ones too. I took the chairs out of the back, pulled up the carpet, and laid my ear against the floor board to see if I could pin point it. It seems to be in front of the rear wheel, about even with the back of the door frame, 14 to 16 inches into the car. It does not seem to be a vibration against the floor of the vehicle, but may be something hitting the fuel tank. That is now my conclusion since I can't see anything loose, and it isn't hitting the car body. Also, the pitch of the thump would be different against the floor of the vehicle, but the tank makes a hollow low "B" when you hit it.
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I was on the way to the airport in my 2004 Hyundai Accent last night when a loud thumping/clunking noise starting coming from the rear end. At first it sounded like a flat tire or something stuck in the tire so I stopped to inspect but everything looked good. I continued my trip as the noise continued to get louder but made it home. I worked on the car for several hours today and have not had any luck nailing down the cause. The sound appears to be coming from the drivers side rear tire area and would get much quieter when I turned right. It sounds like a spot on the wheel is hitting something but I don't see any area that shows signs of wear. Things I have checked:
- Jacked up back end and spun both tires, both spin with no noise and have no play.
- Removed both rear drums and inspected but all looks good.
- Inspected all rear end suspension bushings but don't see anything that stands out.
- I did notice the strut on the drivers side has some play where the passenger side is tight but when I rock the car up and down I hear nothing.
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I took my 2003 Honda Accord that has 200,000 mostly highway miles to my machanic because I heard a thumping sound in the wheel (so I thought) He told me it was a broken engine mount (front) and replaced it. When I picked up my car it vibrated all over the place. I was scared to drive it. The steering wheel was bounding around. Anyway I took it back right away and was told that since they replace the front engine mount the others needed to be replaced as well and that was the cause of the vibration. They replaced the other two engine mounts and the car is vibrating even more. So the decided it was the transmission mounts. So...they replaced the transmission mounts and still my car is vibrating all over the place.
Now the mechanic says it's the engine and said that it was at least a 5 hour job to do but could not give me any promises that that was going to fix my car. So, I took it to the honda dealer to have their tech look into it. The tech thought the vibration was caused by a broken air tube, replaced it (at no cost) but the car still vibrating..
Honda checked the replaced engine and transmission mounts, said they were okay but noticed that the original bolt on the front mount was replaced by a oversized bolt and they think that is the problem since the vibration did not occur until the mechanic replaced the front motor mount. Honda suggested I take the car back to the mechanic since it would cost me much money for them to fix it. I had Honda explain the issue to the mechanic about the bolt and they seem to disagree. I'm still waiting to hear from the mechanic as to when to bring my car back so that they can finally fix it. i think the made more of a problem in the first place.
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We have a 2013 Sonata. For a while now we have been hearing a thump-thump-thump from the back of the car. The thumping starts as soon as the car moves and it appears to come from the driver side.
We get the thumping in our parking lot, on local roads, on the highway - everywhere. The frequency of the thumping speeds up and slows down in lock step with road speed. The thumping doesn't get appreciably louder when we go around turns or when we apply the brakes. We feel no vibration through the brake pedal, or through the steering wheel, or through the seats or any other part of the car.
Six months ago we left the car with the dealer after taking the service advisor for a ride. He heard the noise but when examining the car they could not locate the source of it. They said the wheel bearings looked good, the tires looked good, the brake rotors looked good.
After that we replaced the old tires with new ones and had them installed and had the wheels and tires balanced at a shop that is known for doing this well. (They take care of a lot of SCCA weekend racers.) After all of that the thumping was still there, same as before.
Now the thumping is getting worse. We are planning to take the car back to the dealer to have them go over it again and start replacing parts to see if we can locate the source of the noise that way.
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I hear a thumping sound in the rear of my '97 Legacy wagon (Brighton model). The sound occurs when the car moves. Once the car has been running for several minutes the sound goes away. What is the cause and fix?
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I have a 1995 850. About a year ago, I suddenly had a loud grinding noise coming from my brakes. It only happened in hot weather and when the brakes seemed to be hot. Also, it only happened when I was coming to a final stop, like the last 10-20 feet. I took my car to my "trusted" mechanic. They diagnosed it as being my front pads and rotors, so they replaced them (they also felt the front vibrating.) NOW the brakes seemed okay after I got it back the second time (no loud grinding noise.)
When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.
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Driving in snow, braking in this car routinely handles poorly and brakes make a loud grinding sound. It sounds like the front brakes. I just had a brake job from a trusted dealer. I read the thread here on the Honda Accord that reported the same sort of brake problem. The issue is the brakes, NOT tires as that thread suggests. Braking strength is greatly impaired under these conditions. I am very apprehensive about driving in snow, and ready to trade in what is otherwise a fine car.
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I just bought this camry recently, it's an 2008 SE 4-cylinder with about 95k on it. Everything is fine on the car with the exception of one thing. Whenever I start it after a prolonged period of it being off, say in the morning or sometimes even having it off for an hour and then starting it again, when I start it, a loud grinding/scrapping noise comes from the front of the car.
This noise lasts for a good 30-60 seconds and as the car picks up speed it disappears. It just happens whenever I start it. Now I'm not sure that if the brakes or jammed or is it something to do with the transmission. I mention the transmission because during the drive, the car seems under a lot of pressure as if towing a large trailer and has trouble accelerating. At times when going downhill, it actually is slowing down as opposed to picking up speed and as soon as I let off the gas the speed drop from significantly.
I know this isn't normal because I used to an 2005 Camry LE 4-cylinder. So I know how the engine and transmission behave.
I took it the dealer recommended mechanic and he said that everything is fine. He's a nincompoop really. I took it to my mechanic and he said that the axle and bearing need to be changed on the passenger side and just the axle on the drivers side. My mechanic is a family friend and is skilled in his trade so I know he's not trying to shaft me.
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My 2005 Honda Accord (approx 48,000 miles) has had squeaky/grinding brakes for the last few months. The brakes make a horrible grinding noise for the first few times that I brake each time that I drive it, and then as the car warms up the noise seems to go away. It also shakes a little bit when it's making the grinding noise - not a ton, but enough that I think there must be something wrong. It's worse (during those first few brakings) if I brake hard, but even if I'm really gently applying the brake it makes the same unsettling noise. The squeaking noise doesn't go away ever, but I don't think it's as serious as the grinding noise (but I could be wrong - that's why I'm here!).
I took it to a brake specialty place in November or December and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Other than regular oil changes and tire rotations, the car hasn't had any repairs.
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I am guessing my brake pads are going but figured I'd check with the forum first. What does it mean when you press down and about 3/4 of the way you start hearing this grinding noise almost like two pieces of iron are grinding across eachother?
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I am having a major issue with my truck. I replaced all of my brakes about 8 months ago. Replaced everything. Rotors, calipers, pads etc. About 3 weeks ago I pushed on the brakes and they locked up and I heard a loud pop and then grinding. I pulled my wheel and my brake on the right rear had broke the 2 mounting bolts and fell off. So I put the brake back on thinking I hadn't tightened the bolts.
Drove about 7 miles and around the 10th time I stepped on my brakes it did the same thing. So I replaced the brakes again. Calipers caliper mount and pads. I have been driving it 2 weeks and all of a sudden same thing happened. I push on the brakes the right rear locked up and snapped the bolts again. So now I replaced everything rotor calipers etc. Greased everything up and no problems for a day. Do I need to replace the brake mount and where do I get that?
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