I have a 2002 Honda CRV-LX with over 200,000 miles. I'm experiencing a loud hum and vibration between 40 and 50 mph on acceleration and deceleration. It occurs when I'm driving straight or turning left, but goes away when I turn right.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a used 2004 3.5l automatic Santa Fe. The vibration is most noticeable from 35 - 40mph during acceleration and deceleration. It's there at higher speeds but the car doesn't physically vibrate as much.
The vibration is there with the car coasting and transmission in neutral. It's there with the car coasting and the motor off.
The tires and wheels have been swapped out with other wheels and tires. No change.
The front driveshaft U-joint has been replaced. No change.
It seems to be in the drivetrain somewhere. I would like to fix it without slowly replacing everything.
2004 F350 single rear wheel with 8" suspension (springs) lift and 37" tires all put on in 2005. Having low speed vibration 15-20 mph on accel and decel. Recently put on thick aluminum rear dif cover and vibration seems to have come since that install. Used Mobile synthetic fluid and 4 oz of Motorcraft antifriction additive and 4 oz of off brand. The Mobile fluid and antifriction have been in my barn for over 5 years in the winter and summer. I just changed the carrier bearing and all U-joints look good. Any chance the fluid and antifriction additive could be causing this? Truck has 66k miles.
View 6 RepliesAlright so car is a 13 R, bolt ons, c2 stage 2+. Drove the car yesterday morning all was good. Did an oil change and fixed my cts DV (the top nozzle had popped out, i glued around it as cts had suggested to hold it in place). At first the car was making an odd "weeee ooooo" sound on accel/decel. I went home, rechecked all couplers, vacuum hoses etc. then went for another drive, there is absolutely no boost. Car drives likes its naturally aspirated, no attempt to even go into boost just nothing. Ran vag com, no codes.
View 9 RepliesLast week i started to notice that my gti clicks on moderate acceleration, and again if I let off and using engine braking. I can only hear it with the windows down, and it seems to be coming from front of the car. My first thought is that the axle bolts might be loose, or I have a failing CV joint. I re-torqued to 70nm, and could not budge for the 90 degrees after that. So, they are tight - possibly too tight?
I've read a bunch of threads on relay clicks, etc., and do not think that's whats going on here. I'll double check tomorrow, and see if it's the 1000 rpm relay click. What this might be, or how to definitively know whether it is / is not the CV's? I'd be fairly surprised if the CV's are dying - I do not drive this car hard or beat on it at all, and generally keep it out of boost around town.
Details on car - '10, MT, about 30k. Koni coils at about 24.5" ftg, APR stg II, B&B TBE, all with about 15k on them.
I have noticed, and this seems new and not a change in my driving habits, but when driving the prius c, and I am on rolling country roads, I like to loose speed as I go up hills if no cars are behind me, but here is the problem that has become noticeable.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Max with automatic transmission, 129,000 miles. It's got a higher pitched whine that increases as I accelerate between first and second gear and between 2nd and 3rd. I can't hear once it's in 3rd gear. It sounds like an RC car or early video game race car sound. I can hear it winding down as I slow down through those gears. It's also audible when the car is in neutral or park, but not then the brakes are fully applied. I can't really hear it in reverse.
I bought it used with 65,000 miles on it. I'm not sure what was done before that as far as maintenance/preventative maint. I did get a transmission flush three years ago (don't know the mileage at that time). I don't think this will impact things in any way, but I just changed the spark plugs and wires a few weeks ago.
It has a rough/shuddery idle (but doesn't feel like it's goign to stall out) and seems to be riding rougher than usual lately. I feel it more in the seat/overall car vibrations than through the steering wheel.
Transmission Oil Pump? Planetary Gear Set? I was really hoping to not have an expensive repair, but I am fearing the worst.
Ok - I admit, I don't have a good description of what's going on, but it's not normal. When I accelerate slowly, or go up a hill, I'm hearing a "rattling" sort of noise that did not used to be there. I have heard it also when slowly decelerating.
I need to crawl under and look, but my big concern is I'm about to go on a 2000 mile trip with a small horse trailer. Could this be a festering major engine, transmission, or otherwise problem?
My car is making a loud deceleration noise evertime I let off of the accelerator. It appears the RPMS are not adjusting. Could this be my transmission, timing or something else?
View 9 RepliesI recently put an accidental extra 4 quarts, and I know hear a low thump ie like a piston but the engine runs fine and there is no power loss, just a simple draining off the pain I hope. The engine runs fine just notice this small metallic rhythmic thump on acceleration, and deceleration.
View 2 RepliesThe car: 2012 Tiguan SE 4mo (auto)
The noise: there is a loud pop/cluck/knock from the front drivers side footwell, can sometimes be felt in the pedals
When it occurs: Most frequently it occurs on deceleration. Letting off the gas, there is a slight delay then the noise. It doesn't happen every time. The intensity of it is very sporadic and unpredictable. In stop and go traffic, it is typically the worst, gently accelerate, let off the gas, loud clunk. During other normal driving, accelerate up to normal (55mph) speed, let off gas, quieter clunk, intermittent. Infrequently it makes the noise when I shift into reverse. I can also hear it faintly when i start the car sometimes.
There seems to be very little correlation to vehicle speed and the noise. It is typically louder at low.
When driving my 2003 Volvo XC70, it sounds as if I am driving on nobby mud tires. The sound (rrrrrrrrrrrr) gets faster and slower with the cars acceleration and deceleration. I know that the sound isn't caused by the tires because I am running on Micheline Harmony tires which are fairly quite. I am concerned that it may be a gear going bad.
View 5 Replies02J-EGT 5spd. OEM axles.
Sounds like it's coming from the front. I noticed a few months ago my inner passenger CV boot was cracked, put motor mount spacers in which should have hopefully brought that axle up to okay standards. My initial reaction is to say the howling is from that CV joint however it's very odd it only happens after 35 and when I'm not heavy accelerating or deaccelerating- only when holding the car at a constant speed.
This also came after doing the TDI 5th. I notice it a little bit after passing 35mph in 3rd but really can hear it in 4th/5th when the engine revs drop. Am I right in thinking CV boot? Or transmission internal?
It seems like every time I take a corner or make any sudden acceleration/deceleration that my driver seat seems to shift around--like it's not properly anchored in my car. It's hard to explain...Any aggressive driving around corners and such makes my seat make a slight popping sound, with some slight give. I never had this problem with my mkvi TDI I used to have (although I could never take corners as fast as my R). Also, my seats are already showing wearing on the bolsters (just over 2k miles). I know others have expressed issues with this. What is everyone else doing to remedy this?
View 6 RepliesI have a 1986 Ford Ranger that the battery light comes on and all lights get bright at 900 rpm on acceleration, and all lights dim and light goes off at 900 rpm on deceleration. I have replaced the battery, alternator and starter since getting the truck. I have also run ALL the wiring and found only 2 breaks which were repaired. I have had to replace headlights 3 times in two weeks, due to them blowing.
View 5 RepliesMy daughter has a 2010 Elantra 4-dr 74k
In the last few days, a new sound has appeared. It is hard to describe, sometimes squeaky, sometimes sound like a vacuum leak or air bypass.
It seems to steering related in conjunction with acceleration/deceleration. It only occurs when the wheel is being turned to the left, whether for a left turn or returning to center from a right turn. The noise seems to come from the center/center left of the firewall area.
It only does this while in motion, I couldn't replicate the issue with the car running but in Park.
When driving, if I let off on the gas, my 2016 Elantra kinda coasts for a second or 2 and then does a rapid deceleration or sometimes sudden acceleration and moves unevenly instead of coming to a smooth stop or slowly coasting at a constant speed. The car jerks just enough to feel like I'm braking a bit. Not smooth like it should be.
I have been using my Elantra 2016 since end of last year. It has mostly been like this since the last few months and lately it has increased. Also, lately my fuel economy hasn't been great as well. Why my Elantra has been behaving like this?
My wife and I just bought a pre-owned 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 60,000 miles that just started to make a whistle sound on initial acceleration and deceleration when the engine is warm and the transmission is in gear and moving. The sound does not happen with a cold engine, when the transmission is in park, or neutral. A local mechanic checked it for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. He thought it may be a dirty throttle body, so I cleaned that out really well, but the whistle didn't go away (it did make the jeep run a lot smoother!). It's difficult to pinpoint the noise since it only happens when the vehicle is actually moving.
View 8 RepliesI had some vibration occurring during deceleration and though it was either the slip joint or the rear u-joint because I could sense some movement back there.
After I replaced the u-joints and properly serviced the slip joint I still had the issue (although it was a little better). I now see that there is a little bit of play in the pinion shaft. I can't really shake it back and forth, but if I hit it hard upward it clearly has play.
What should I do next? I have read a bunch, but would like to get an expert to chime in.
My 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid has lurched for over a year now. The dealership has run tests and can't seem to figure it out -- though my budget has only allowed them to take a look at it 2 or 3 times.
Things I know:
* lurches are accompanied by RPM fluctuations
* only lurches at slow speeds (under 30 mph?)
* only lurches on a slow, steady deceleration -- does not lurch in acceleration or quick deceleration
* dealership replaced O2 sensor; had no effect
* Jiffy Lube flushed oil and (I think) transmission fluid systems; had no effect
* previous owner did not perform regular maintenance; missed oil changes, etc.
* lurching seemed to get really bad last summer, getting progressively worse until the car died on the road. The nearest mechanic said I was out of oil (which surprised me because I had changed the oil maybe 2 months prior?
)* lurching can be minimized by turning off AC/heat
Things that MIGHT be playing a part? seems like it gets worse in summer heat. Definitely still happens in winter though, so this may be my imagination.
If I am going over 60MPH and let off the gas pedal (decelerate, no brakes) I get a bad rattle/vibration that shakes mainly the dash front. only happens when I let off gas pedal. As long as I am giving gas the Bronco runs smooth, no vibration/rattle at all.
I just changed..Front Rear Brakes, Repak Front Wheel Bearings. New Front Rear Shock (deutch Tech), new track bar poly bushings, greased all joints axles, changed rear diff fluid (bottle of transX diff additive 85W-90 gear oil). It did the same thing before all this too and it is intermittent (but more so than not). Sometimes it is really violent (feels like the whole truck is going too shake loose, other times it is fine.
I am going on a long trip Thursday and this is bothering me. Cant pin point problem. One note i towed a boat for the first time last sunday and the problem went away, i.e., more wait in rear? Alignment,tires,driveshaft? I really dont have time to do anything except minor adjustments before I leave.