Honda - Cr-v :: Code P0139 Accompanied With CEL
Jan 30, 2015
My CR-V 2005 ( 190,000 miles) got a CEL on ( Nov, 2014)( Colorado). Dealer's scan showed code: P0139 : O2 sensor 2( downstream) slow response( Dec,11,14). I took my car to a shop close to my house for replacement of O2 sensor. After replacement, the machinist told me, my sensor( new) " still stuck full rich". he suggest if my CEL is on with same code ( P 0139), I'll need to change the Catalytic Converter ( Jan, 8, 2015). So far my CEL has been on & off 3 times ( by itself) with the same code P0139.
1st time was 2 days after the replacement, just almost a minute before the empty -gas-tank light was on, and off 3 days later. Ten days after that, CEL was on, just before I filled up my empty gas tank, and off 2 day later. The 3rd time was 3 days after the 2nd, my gas tank is half empty. I decide to fill up the tank and started my car, CEL was off right away. I talk to my mechanist( Jan,28,15), he said My Converter is borderline ,still needs to be replaced. My car has been running OK before, during & after the CEL on & off.
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I did a spirited sprint from a stop light and then got this cel. It says it's for the second 02 sensor. I got home, jacked it up and checked it out. Everything looked, sounded, smelled, ran fine. What should I do?
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I am currently about 1700 miles into what is a, planned, 11,000 mile road trip up to Alaska and back to SC. The first three days of driving everything was fine and I was getting 33 MPG. Today my MPG dropped down to 28 and in the evening my check engine light came on. The folks at PepBoys told me it was P0139 which I understand has to do with oxygen sensors and would affect my vehicle gas consumption.
If I drive about 21 hrs (Denver to Portland OR) to get to a place where I have a trusted mechanic and more free time, will it be bad for the car/engine?
Driving: Elantra GLS, 2003. Around 53k miles on it. Just replaced the tires last week as well as all belts (including timing). A few years ago I recall a similar error and my mechanic had me take the car to a muffler shop to cut something out and reweld it. yeah, I have forgotten the details.
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There is a grinding/squeaking noise coming from what sounds like the front driver side wheel area. It is not constant... the interval between each occurrence is relative to vehicle speed. When moving slowly, like in a neighborhood, the gap is about a ½ second. The gap lessens til I hit ±65mph, when each occurrence runs into the next and the sound is pretty constant. The 10 fill-ups before this started I averaged 42.3mpg, my last 2 fill-ups average to 37.6mpg...Oh, there is no audible sound when the car is on a lift...
At first I thought a dragging brake but there is no change in the sound when the breaks are applied...I bled the lines anyway...no change.I thought CV joint, but, from what I've read, the tell-tell clicking and worsening under heavy cornering is not present.Maybe a wheel bearing? I've done the simple bearing test of trying to wiggle the wheel left-to-right & top-to-bottom...no movement.
By the way, this is a manual transmission and the sound is present whether in gear or in neutral or coasting with clutch depressed.
One more thing I should mention, and this might be important... my first poor mpg result coincided with me disintegrating a rod bearing...(low oil) I did replace the bearing with the appropriate size. I measured the crank journal with a micrometer and it still seemed to be right at the factory specs. There were no scores or gouges in the journal. (As soon as I heard the loud ticking associated with a bad rod bearing I shut the car off and pushed it to work where we have a lift. Luckily it was only about a mile and was pretty flat...it doesn't hurt that the car only weighs 1,800 lbs. either.) Anyway, I reassembled the bottom end, torqued the rod cap according to the factory service manual, torqued the oil pump and the oil pan, added new oil and started it up. It ran, and still run, nice and smooth.
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My girlfriend has a 2007, v6, Honda Accord. She had difficulty turning the steering wheel, accompanied with a loud noise. She took it to a local garage and they diagnosed it as a leak in the power steering hose which she had replaced for about $400. When she used the car the following day, the problem was still there and seemed to be a little worse. She called the garage and they said for her to bring the car back which we'll be doing tomorrow. Also, coincidentally, we saw that Honda issued a recall for this. [URL] ...... As a result, we have the following questions:
-Is there any recourse for full or partial reimbursement from Honday? After all, if we took it to Honda, then Honda dealer would bill Honda Manufacturer anway.
-Should garages be familiar with recalls?
-Assuming the local garage fixes the problem, do you recommend that we still take it to the dealership?
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2008 Prius with 105k miles was throwing code (P0A92) and had accompanying grinding/crunching noise. Intermittently, The HV battery would drain down and the car would have difficulty starting. The car was stranded in the middle of a 2,000-mile trip in October after extended use of the A/C, and was left at a friend's house until February.
After weeks of arguments with local Toyota dealerships, who refused to listen to Toyota's national service representatives and demanded that we purchase a replacement battery for $3,000, I purchased and installed a HybridAutomotive grid charger. The Prius started and drove, but lost power about 10 miles into the drive back. Being in a hurry, we resolved to return with a trailer and tow the car back to my shop.
A replacement, low-miles transmission was installed per directions in the FSM. There was some trouble getting the inverter pump to bleed (I ended up taking off the return hose & pouring coolant backwards through the pump), and I had to swap in a spare 12v battery due to the old one being discharged. The car showed codes C0205 and C0200 (left front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction, right front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction), but no other issues.
About two weeks and 3,000 miles into the transmission swap, the battery I'd swapped in would no longer fire up the computer. A test showed the battery I'd swapped in (which I purchased in 2005) was only outputting 300 CCAs (out of a rated ~1,000). The Prius accessory battery was charged and reinstalled. The battery started the car, but would often need to be charged overnight in order to start the car (even though it would pass voltage and CCA tests). When the car won't start, attempting to jump it off another car doesn't work, and the battery had given readings as low as 10.5 volts, indicating a bad cell.
Yesterday, I had the car's owner run the in-car test procedure. Voltage was 12.3 without load, 12.0 with load. The third test could not be completed because the car shuts down. As the voltages were slightly low, the battery was replaced under warranty, but the car is exhibiting the same symptoms with the new battery. I'm now suspecting a bad inverter and/or failed inverter pump.
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My 2005 Elantra GlS Hatch's CEL light has been coming on and off. Mostly on now, because of course it is 1 month away from needing emissions checked. I am getting 2 codes------ P2626 and P0139 . The first one is the upper O2 sensor and the second was is for the lower O2 sensor.
The problem is that I replaced the upper sensor a year ago because of the same CEL code. The lower sensor was replaced in 2009 ish under warranty. Why these O2 sensors are going bad so quick?
One of my guesses is that my wife only drives the car about 6 miles round trip to work and the car never reaches proper temperature. She never drives on the hwy but lately I've been driving it to work on the hwy and she drives our new 2013 Elantra. The 2005 only has 51,000 miles.
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I just got a 2000 V6 Passat Wagon. The CEL light was on when I got it though I bought it knowing this. The battery was bad when I got it and I replaced it. After installing the new battery . . .. . starting worked only intermittently. It got worse and at one point I had to hold the key to the start position for about 5 seconds before the starter would even engage. Now it won't start at all. I pulled the codes (shown below) when I first got it but did not give it much credence . . . I wanted to clear the codes and drive it and re-look at the codes. . . . but I have not been able to drive it.
Other observances. . .. not sure if they are related to the car not starting:
Windows, sunroof do not roll up/down while electronic locks work. The driver side window was down when I got it and I read somewhere on this forum to use the key to raise it. . .. it worked. Alarm does not work. Radio works. . . . I found it odd that though the battery was taken out for more than 12 hrs. . . . The radio code was not required. Dome light works intermittently.
I have checked every fuse and they are all good.
Engine Codes:
18032P1624MIL Request Sign.active
18011P1603Internal Control Module Malfunction
18010P1602Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 Low Voltage
16684P0300Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
16690P0306Cyl.6 Misfire Detected
16686P0302Cyl.2 Misfire Detected
Transmission Codes:
17142P0758Shift Solenoid B Electrical
18158P1750Power Supply Voltage Low Voltage
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I'm the orgional owner of a 2001 Passat 1.8T with manual transmission...It has 93,000 miles on it.
Last week, the check engine light came on and a "Emissions Workshop!" message light came on. It was on for a few days,then disappeared for a few days,only to come back.
I took it to Autozone for a reading. Here's the results:
"The PCM has determined that during testing,the fuel system for bank 1 was too lean.
Definition: Fuel trim bank one condition
Explanation: The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio of the engine.
The computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.
Probable Causes:1. If bank one and two codes set together fuel pressure or MAF Sensor
2. Oxygen sensor defective
3. Ignition misfire-repair
4. Fuel injector repair.
Someone here asked if my oil was recently changed-It was.
Driveability hasn't been affected,nor has mpg. The car drives as normal.
I need to go on a 1,000 mile trip in a few days,and don't think I'll have time to have the car serviced.
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Got a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage with this code 0420. Only had car a while. It has always had a hesitation accompanied by the CEL coming on and then going out. Might happen twice a trip and then not occur for weeks. Previous owner said they failed an emissions because he cleared a set code(not told to me). The car dives fine and gas mileage seems to be fine. Car does use about a quart of oil over a 3000 mile oil change. It also has/had a rattle similar to an exhaust baffle...the rattle is not an every trip occurrence either.
Had Autozone check for code and was told catalytic converter needed to be replaced. There are no emissions in my state but I would like to know any opinions on my problem and any issues with driving car without repair. I think I want to clear code by disconnecting battery cable and see if it returns but not that would be a good idea. Also considered buying a scan tool with live data to see if there is another issue that might not involve replacing the catalytic converter. Previous owner also mentioned a hissing when removing gas cap and he bought another cap but the I still notice the hissing.
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Recently I had a warning light accompanied by the ICE shutting down. P0121. As the repair, the throttle body was cleaned.
A week or two later, while in Park with the parking brake engaged, I got another warning light along with some text on the display, something about parking brake. I didn't completely absorb the message before powering off, waiting, then powering on. No more warning light.
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I have about 2500 miles on my manual MK7 GTI (bought it with about 70 dealership miles) and ever since I got it it's been having these weird little backfires/slight sputtering while idling.
I'll be idling at a stoplight, and I'll feel a few little kicks/vibrations underneath my seat accompanied with a light engine shake. It's very hard to describe, but it's been bothering me since I got it, as none of my other cars have done it and I don't know what is causing it.
I have always pumped 93 octane gas and even made sure the dealership pumped 93 octane when they gave me the free tank. Not sure what they pumped before that.
I went to a Mobil gas station last night to top off my tank (a little under 1/2 full) and no later than 5 minutes after pulling away from the gas station, I was cruising in 4th gear at around 40-45 mph when I felt the engine sputter. It was only for a brief second or two, but I clearly felt the engine sputter then pick itself back up. This happened another 2-3 times on the way home.
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So here is my situation, back in September I had to replace my passenger side cv axle on my 99' Mk IV Jetta and ever since then I have had a vibration whenever I exceed speeds over 70. This vibration is accompanied with a droning sound that gets louder the faster I go. But the weird part is all of this only happens when I am accelerating. If I push in the clutch or take my foot off of the accelerator it goes away immediately. Since all that started (for other reasons I might add) I have replaced the tires, both front ball joints, the driver side steering knuckle and both front struts.
Additionally and I'm not sure if this is related but it does seem coincidental. The muffler bumps on the body when I'm accelerating as well, but only after the exhaust has warmed up. I am at a loss. When the tires were installed they did a balance on the wheels and they didn't say anything about the wheels being bent or "out of round".
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So I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with about 190k miles. It currently has an overheating problem but first I'll discuss some history:
-It had a previous overheating problem a few months ago that was accompanied by bubbling sounds. We diagnosed this as boiling coolant because the system was not pressurizing due to a leak in the reservoir. We fixed the reservoir leak and pressure tested it to find that the leak was repaired. The bubbling noises stopped and the car no longer overheated.
-The car was then underheating nearly all the time. We diagnosed this as a broken thermostat, probably killed by the overheating that was caused by the leak in the reservoir. We replaced the thermostat and bled/burped the system and now the car does not underheat.
Now the car operates around the half-temp mark and stays very regular except in traffic or parked in the driveway. So it overheats when it is idling. You can rev up the engine in these cases and see the temp gauge fall back down, so it is dependent on RPM only and not on the actual traveling speed of the car. Also at this time the car supplies nice heat to the cabin.
Things to exclude:The electric fans seem to be working fine and they switch on and off supplying a good deal of wind.The system was bled/burped.The system has a new thermostat.The system does not leak based on a pressure test.The system has enough coolant.The system supplies good heat to the cabin.
My guess is that there is a clog/general grossness inside the system someplace or that the water pump is starting to fail?
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Basically when I'm coming into my driveway (I turn to the right into it) I hit with the right front first and get this shuddering sound accompanied by a sloppy feeling in the steering wheel.
Sounds like the old door stop Springs. I sometimes get it as well when hitting bumps with either side at a time but not when hitting speed bumps or bumps where both wheels hit at the same time.
Went to the dealership but they couldn't reproduce it on the newly built read that's as smooth as glass.....
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I have a 2004 Ford Focus that has always run like a champ; (71,000) miles. Two years ago it started having some really strange "issues." The car's dash light for the ABS would start to flash off and on, accompanied by a clicking sound whenever it flashed. The brakes are always fine. Next, though, the car starts kicking and "bucking" as though it wanted to die. Whenever I pulled off the road, turned off the car and turned it back on, everything was fine. This went on for weeks but it was sporadic in nature; and naturally it didn't do anything for my mechanic even when I left it there.
I finally took it to the Ford dealer who charged me $800 for a new alternator belt, but it came with no guarantee - they said they frankly didn't know whether it would work or not. Turns out it did, for a couple of years; but it has just now started doing it again. I can find nothing that I'm doing or not doing determines whether this happens or not. Now I've got the same scarey problem all over again, and every couple of years for a new alternator belt, I might as well give it up and sell. I'm getting so tired of hearing "I don't know what's wrong". Oh, by the way, the "check engine" light never goes on.
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Recently I installed a GTA bluetooth system (about 4 months ago) and recently there is a squeaking noise coming from the passenger side. It almost sounds like an AC compressor issue (had the same problem with my F-250) but there is also an accompanying "gurgling" sound as well. AC problems with the Gen 2 after 160,000 miles?
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Ok here's the problem. I have a 2003 grand prix se 3.1 and a 1998 grand prix gtp series II sc. Both have the exact same problem running and both had overheating issues prior to. I can start either one on a given day while cold and drive them as if nothing is wrong. But soon as either one hits operating temp, I start to hear what sounds like a rattling or sputtering like sound from under the hood, accompanied with a sudden loss of power and then the engine shuts off. Now yesterday I attempted further diagnostics with the se model GP. I let it idle rather than driving it this time, and it ran perfectly fine for about 20 mins, started to make the aforementioned noise, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm and it kept it from cutting off and smoothed, but the second I let up, it was off and wouldn't restart till it was cooled off. Same goes for the gtp. I'm really stumped on this one.
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So my buddy was driving my truck and boat through Amarillo and suddeny had a buck/surge accompanied with black smoke. I left my torque app with him. Its throwing codes: P2287,2285, and P????(fault log got erased and I'm going from memory) concerning #8 cyl. I got there today and we noticed coolant leak on left side. Its small and I cant tell the source, but it is wetting the exhaust manifold on left side. Also now its blowing white, black, grey smoke. At idle its more white/ grey. Under load it mixes a little blck in. I only had time to check the ICP on torque and at idle its bouncing from 0.9 to 1.1. Unplugged ICP ran about the same. Still started and idled fine with white smoke. No oil in ICP or connector.
So I'm no expert but I think ive got a bad icp and something else going on. I didn't pull the egr valve and look so no idea on the cooler ,yup syill have the cooler. Degas has a small amount of white residue directly under the cap but no puking. Degas is just below the max line (on the sticker).
One other note only code originally was the 2287 last night. Now this am there was the other codes ref'd above.
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I have a 2001 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L . I purchased the truck used with about 120,000 miles on it. It runs great despite averaging about 10.8 mpg. Shortly after I got the truck, I noticed what I thought was an intermittent transmission issue when the trans would shift. I would get a "flare" that lasted briefly as if the trans was slipping, but it was accompanied by a sound that I'm not sure how to describe, but it was somewhat like hitting a rev limiter. It only happened when the transmission shifted. The fluid was clean and did not smell burnt. I assumed it was a misfire issue, even though it did not happen often, and seemed to only happen at shift points. I changed all of the plugs and all of the coil packs. It still does the exact same thing. Sometimes it only does it once every couple of days, and other times it may do it 3 or 4 times a day.
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I have a 97 Honda Civic Manual transmission and my Check Engine Light Came On. The error code is P0135 which shows up as needing a O2 sensor. My question is:
1. Do I need to replace it?
2. How long do I have to replace it?
3. Will driving with it as it hurt my car?
The weather is getting colder and I read that could be the cause. I really don't have much extra money but I don't want to kill the car. I have kept up on Oil Changes with MaxLife Full Synthetic, Radiator Flush, etc if that matters. I also went into Valoviline Instant Oil Change and they double checked all of the fluid levels and that was OK.
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