Honda - Cr-v :: 2015 - Putting Car Into Drive Or Reverse With Parking Brake Engaged
Dec 6, 2015
I am a new driver and I made the following mistake twice.
Twice over the last month, after street parallel parking, engaging the foot parking brake, turning off and exiting the car, I noticed the spacing from the front and back car is a bit off so I went back inside the car to move the car slightly.
However, I forgot to disengage the parking brake first, so I put the car into R, and when the car did not move, I tapped on the accelerator. Only then did I remember to disengage the parking brake.
If I just tapped on the accelerator slightly, does it damage my car? I haven't noticed any problems yet, but I feel terrible about the screw ups.
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i just realized that when i apply my paddle emergency (parking) brake, the light on dash does not come ON. However when i turn the key on i can see there is parking brake light on dash and it also comes on.
Why its not showing the light when the parking brakes are engaged ? is it safe ? is it could be a fuse or cable from lever?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited, 3.8 with 5 speed automatic; car has 139K miles. I am noticing a small 'click' noise when putting the transmission in Drive or Reverse, and sometimes when accelerating from a dead stop. Car otherwise drives beautifully - the 'click' doesn't seem to affect driving it. The CV's don't make a clatter if accelerating at full wheel lock, which is usually the tell-tale for bad CV's. Is this something simple? My thoughts are:
1.) Somehow it's a CV joint. Grayson Hyundai said they're 'shot' but I think I would notice more than a brief click? They said a whole bunch of other things were wrong on their 'inspection', said the brakes were 'shot' because the rotors had rust on them... I don't trust that opinion.
2.) A motor mount or transmission mount. Seems more likely since would be most noticeable with torque.
3.) Something in the suspension. The car has new tie rod ends, but there may be something else worn/loose that I'm not aware of.
4.) Maybe I am just being too picky. The car drives awesome!
Maybe I'm overreacting, I just don't want some sort of catastrophic failure to occur.. The car still feels very robust, solid, and overall quite healthy..
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My 2008 Prius has been sitting for about 25 days while I've been out of town. I just tried to drive it, but it feels like the parking brake is engaged even though I've pushed it off (and the lights are showing it is off).
A bit more detail: Car has been parked on a relatively steep incline (maybe 35 degrees) for about 25 days (this is its normal parking spot). Parking brake was engaged during this time. Weather is mild to warm (it's Hawaii). When I try to back up it feels like there is something behind the one of the rear tires, and the car almost starts to lift up a bit. (But there's nothing there that I can see.) I might have been able to push the gas a bit more, but was afraid of damaging something. When I put the car in drive and take my foot off the brake it rolls slightly (and very slowly forward), but not nearly what it should (I'm afraid to push the gas at all because there is a wall very close to the front of my car).
Seems like maybe the brake is stuck or something of the sort...
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I have bi-xenon lamps and DRLs. The manual states that the DRLs are supposed to turn off when the transmission is in Park and the parking brake is engaged. My DRLs do NOT turn off.
So, my question is: Do your DRLs turn off when the car's in Park and the parking brake is engaged?
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I have a Honda Odyssey with 154000 miles on it. In February it started to slip when putting it into drive. I thought this was due to the cold snap. The slip/delay grew until it would disengage from gear when driving. Eventually it was not safe to drive and I had it towed to a transmission shop. They have replaced the TCU, the torque converter arm & the transmission & the ring kit. He has told me that he won't charge more than he originally quoted me, but when I went out there yesterday nothing had changed (it was still on the lift with the exhaust & undercarriage on the floor) since two days prior when he told me it would be done on Friday. Do I have any recourse, and how do I make him finish this job?
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I have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
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Do the parking brake make an audible sound when engaged disengaged. I noticed this for the first time but only while the drivers door was open. Sound like a motor running for about 3 seconds when you turn the break on and off. Is this normal?
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I noticed an increasingly loud noise when my GX 470 is in motion. It isn't tied to engine speed, so I figure it probably has something to do with the wheels.
I jacked up the vehicle and spun each wheel independently in neutral. Front wheels were fine. Rear driver's wheel was fine. Rear passenger's wheel - fine with parking brake disengaged. But with brake engaged, you can spin the wheel backward but not forward.
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I have a 2002 Prius with about 150,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago, I noticed that the parking brake light on my instrument cluster didn't light up when I engaged it. Soon, all 10 bars on the fuel gauge started blinking. The seat belt reminder, open door warning, and headlight indicator lights aren't working, either. Any clues as to what could be causing all these malfunctions, or have I had more than one problem develop in close succession?
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I have an 07 Prius that's been going great for me. About two weeks ago I get this strange error message about my P Lock mechanism and how I need to be parked on a flat surface with the parking brake fully engaged. The car wouldn't start, just a bunch of warning lights. Finally I replaced the 12v battery at the dealership.
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My parking brake light came on while driving. The car would coast at a low speed OK, so I think the brake was not on.
This happened in Yellowstone National Park at altitudes above 7,600 ft. and happened 4,000 miles ago and hasn't happened since. Taking the car in for an oil change today and I am going to ask about it.
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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Whenever I park on an incline whether it's upward or downward the car seems to roll about an inch or so after engaging the parking brake and then taking my foot slowly off the brakes. When I engage the parking brake I have the transmission set in neutral so the weight of the car doesn't put stress on it.
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I have purchased a second hand Lexus GS350 F 2015 with only 12,000 miles on it. I do have an issue with the parking brake. It works fine sometimes, and sometimes it blacks out and I keep getting the (!) sign and message saying (Check Parking Brake System, Parking Brake Inoperable) with blinking red Parking sign. It simply releases the brake and it doesn't function at all. It goes sometimes by itself and comes back. This issue usually happens after driving the car mileage not immediately when starting up the car. How to handle this problem and which part is malfunctioning.
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08 ES350 with 52k miles has a grinding sound in reverse. Brake pads were inspected - ok. Suspect that parking brake shoe is worn. Any tips on teardown/replacement ?
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Today I stopped at the post office to check my mail. I put the car in park and didn't shut off the engine - this is what I always do. When I returned a few moments later the car would not go into reverse (this was after releasing the parking brake) and the traction control symbol came on. The car would go into drive but that didn't work much as I was up against a hill (or almost against it). Shutting the car off and turning it on again solved the problem. The parking space was badly potholed; I'm assuming I had less than full contact on one wheel which caused the traction control to kick in which prevented reverse from engaging. And to be clear - it's not that it went into reverse but didn't go anywhere; reverse simply wouldn't engage (I did not try neutral),
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05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Vehicle parking brake barely holds while in Drive. How is this adjusted? On my 91 Corolla, the brake adjusts itself by pulling up on the handle. The Camry does not have this feature so does this have an adjustable cable? If so, where did they hide this adjuster?
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I am installing a Parrot Asteroid Smart into a 2010 XLT without sub or sync. I will also be hooking up a reverse camera. All wires are ran and the harness is built. I have two wires that I am having problems with to make everything function correctly.
Coming from the Parrot, I need to tap into the Reverse Gear and Park Brake. They are separate wires. Where can I tap into these wires? On the side of the shifter I do see three wires but I am not sure where they are going.
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The other day I backed out of my garage and didn't notice that the parking brake was still engaged. The car rolled out without a problem.
Only when I put it in drive did I realize that the parking brake was on, since the car didn't roll forward. I also got an audible alarm.
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I recently had some work done on my 97 Honda Civic (manual), and asked them to adjust the parking brake while they were at it. They tightened it up as they usually do when they work on the car (the other work was not brake-related, although they DID replace my master cylinder just back in February). Two days later, my brakes began to fail (much like they had when I needed the master cylinder replaced). Turns out, something happened with the parking brake such that the cables seized or something and caused the regular brakes to overheat. Once they cooled down, the regular brakes were fine again, so they disconnected one of the cables for the parking brake and ordered replacement cables to be installed next week, for a not inconsequential sum. My question is: did they screw up when they adjusted the parking brake, such that I shouldn't really have to pay the full amount for this subsequent repair? Or was this likely inevitable?
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