Honda - Cr-v :: 2014 - Tire Inflation Light Comes On / ABS Brakes Not Working Correctly
Sep 11, 2014
I have a 2014 Honda CR-V with two possibly related problems.
1. The tire inflation light comes on often even though the pressure is just fine.
2. The ABS brakes don't seem to be working correctly.
Last winter, they seemed to engage much too easily. As soon as I touched the brake pedal, it begins to chatter. I've had ABS brakes before, of course. The ABS brake light has not come on.The kicker is that I think the two problems might be related. As I understand it, the tire pressure light comes on if one wheel spins faster than its partner - say if one of the ABS sensors on one of the wheels was defective.I've had it to the dealer, but they won't even look since the ABS light doesn't come on. They claim that if there was a problem, the light would come on.Frankly, the vehicle feels unsafe on slightly slippery roads.
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So my auxiliary battery started dying and I had to jump start it when it was dead. One dark morning I reversed the cables on my wife's car when jumping it. The portion on the Prius that I had hooked up the cables to started glowing. I unhooked them, and when I got inside my car I noticed several warning lights on (ABS, etc). Once I got the car started I drove to work, but the brakes were no longer working correctly, and if I hit them hard they would lock up and I would skid, with tons of white smoke from the tires. I took the car to Toyota, but they wanted $550 to replace the auxiliary battery and run a diagnosis. They said they could not run any computer tests as the car's auxiliary batter was too low.
So I ordered the battery. In the meantime, the brakes wore down to metal on metal on the front driver's side. I took the car to Firestone and they wanted $850 to replace the pad, rotor, and caliber, which they said was stuck. I then put the new auxiliary battery in the car myself (it was relatively easy) and took it to Toyota. They said the ABS relay needed to be replaced. After waiting two days for the part to come in, I then get informed that the skid control ECU needs to be replaced, at which point they will "recheck as necessary with diagnosis." After doing some googling, there is some indication that the problem might not be the skid control ECU.
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I'm about to leave on a road trip. I noticed last trip, the car pulled to the right. Can that be improved by tire pressure? If so, would I need more front driver or passenger side and/or rear tires?
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Been using the pressure listed on the door jamb which is 29psi since I own the car. But recently I noticed the tires seem to be wearing on the outside part of the tread. I believe this is usually an under- inflation symptom. Am I right to be using 29 psi as the proper amount or should it be higher? The tire says MAX inflation is 44 lbs. which I know would be way over what it should be.
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How to re-set the tire inflation indicator. I just had the tires rotated and properly inflated but the light is still on.
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The temperature has dropped to low single digits.
My RC F tire inflation has dropped to 26 -27 lbs. due to the extreme cold, after it has been outside for a while.
After driving for a while the tires heat up and the pressure goes up, returning to normal range.
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From the day I got my '04 Treg, the tire inflation indicator on the dash has been a problem. For the first year or so, whenever it would indicate a tire inflation problem I would scroll the thumb wheel and get the MFI window with the diagram of the car and indicator as to which tire was low or the problem and would adjust till the indicator went off. Then I guess I got lazy and I noticed I could just go to "reset" in the same window and hold the thumb wheel down and the treg would then accept whatever the pressures happens to be as the new "standard". Not a good idea, I know.
Now here is my problem. Somehow, and much to my eternal consternation, I can no longer get the window in MFI that has tire inflation levels. That's right, it seems to be gone. I get "units" and "lights" and "comfort" and "speed warning" and "time" but no tire inflation category. What could have happened to it? I suppose that while get oil changes at the dealership they may, without my knowing, have reprogrammed my computer but I don't think the change coincided with any service. I've looked in the manual and it's useless on the subject. How I can re-attain the tire inflation window short of taking into the dealership for re-programming?
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I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT using the Futura GLS 225/70/R15 tires. The vehicle decal in the driver side door listed the recommended tire pressure to be 30 PSI. I have tried to maintain religiously along with proper balance and alignment. However, I've always had the experience of the tires wearing out more along the middle which seemed to indicate over inflation. The sections on either side of the center line seemed to wear out normally. For this reason I've had to turn in the tire prematurely as they become unsafe. These tires were made by Coopers Tire and distributed by Pep Boys. Have i been using poor quality tires all along? Do I need to lower my tire pressure below the 30 PSI recommended? If I do that wouldn't I be risking overheating and/or affecting my gas mileage?
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Does your tire inflation psi reading ever randomly display dashes (-----) for a brief minute or so when first starting the engine before actually displaying the psi reading? I've had this happen a couple of times for no apparent reason that would prevent normal TPMS signal operation, but within a minute the dashes are replaced with the actual psi reading. I'm just wondering if this is a somewhat normal event to have happen from time-to-time.
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Just had new tire installed and now noticing that the original stem cap was not used. Alarm is not lit, but wondering if I should try to retrieve the original one, since we notified the tire shop that afternoon......or purchase a new one.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems i was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly.
Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles? Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If i let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on.
It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. the wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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My inflation light wont reset even though I've tried and my speed is off after i install a set of 18's..235/35/18 front... 255/35/18 rear... Is there a way i can fix this?
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We purchased a brand new 16' tandem trailer last night. Plugged it in to my husbands 2011 F150 and hooked it up, lights went on, directionals, hazards, and break lights will not go on UNLESS the trailer light itself is taken off the trailer. We are thinking a grounding issue.
We pulled our 2011 F150 up to another trailer, same issue, only the running lights works.
Two days ago a old single axle trailer worked fine, break lights, directionals, everything.
When the owner put electrical tape around the bolts that connected the lights to the trailer the directionals worked, then they tightened up the nuts it touched the metal part of the trailer, it (meaning directionals, hazards, break lights) stopped working, (but the running lights stayed on). Are we tripping or what the heck is going on here?
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I had a new windshield installed and the first time it rained, my auto unlock,the tire pressure monitor and the auto headlights stopped working. The dealer said that the fuse box got wet. I have since fixed the leak but can't find a fuse or reset any where.
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The vehicle in question is a 2001 Windstar. The OBD Data Link Connection is not working properly. When I plug in my scanner it DOES power up and will read the ABS info, but will not read anything else.
The scanner is new, and a pretty good one for a DIYer, and I've tried it in other vehicles. I've also tried another reader that also didn't work on this van. So I don't think it's the scanner.
My Haynes manual has no info on how to wire a DLC or how to repair/replace one. How can I fix this?
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord v6 3.0 L Coupe and I have a problem with the start up. I just bought a brand new battery for my car so I know it's not the battery. Anyway, when I turn the key in the ignition (normally) I cannot get the car to turn on, it makes an electrical screeching sound. However, when I quickly turn the key, the car turns on. I want the car to turn on normally but do not know the specific problem. I replaced the starter with a family member not too long ago, could it be that the starter was not installed correctly?
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I took my son's 2008 Honda Civic Coupe in for an oil change at a local third party shop today. While there, I was persuaded to let the mechanics carry out a fuel injection service. On driving home I noticed that the digital speedometer no longer read correctly. It now reads about 20 mph over. This is particularly noticeable as the vehicle slows down. I saw that the mechanics were having trouble connecting into the fuel system. They were working in an area behind the air filter, and just in front of the instrument cluster. I believe that they may have disturbed a cable or something in that area, which has caused the problem.
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My 2012 F250 4x4 tire pressure warning message/warning light it on, I have checked all tire pressures, they seem fine, i s this a common problem and what normally has to be done to fix the issue...
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2008 Honda Civic Coupe with 26K miles. One tire keeps losing air & idiot lite comes on. Can this 1 tire be fixed? Or do I need to buy 2 new tires? I do know that one tire had a nail in it and was patched, but I've lost track of which one it is.
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Sunday I had a new set of tires put on my Civic. They told me that one of the four Tire Pressure Monitoring System sensors was bad and that they'd have to order me a new one. I drove home that day with the TPMS light on, which was expected.
This morning I went back to the shop and they replaced the bad sensor. However, after resetting, and doing whatever else it is they did with the handheld computer thing a half-dozen times, the Low Tire Pressure Indicator light is not only on, but blinking. (The TPMS light is off). They drove it around, they checked it with their computer thing again, they plugged in the handheld thing to reset it, went around and did something at each of the tire stems multiple times, but no matter what they did, the light wouldn't (and won't) stop blinking.
"If it doesn't stop on its own, you might have to bring it to a Honda Dealer."
Seriously?
I used to have an old Aurora that would turn on the engine light every time a reading went slightly out of whack, and after so many ignition key turns (on and off) the light would turn off on its own. Is that the case here? Or is this light going to blink forever until I go to the Honda Dealer?
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Front wheel looks pushed back and not aligned correctly. I figured I hit a nasty pothole.
Mechanic #1 says the control arm needs to be replaced.
Mechanic #2 says the strut needs to be replaced. No comment on control arm.
Could it be both? Or neither?
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