I have a new 2011 Honda CRV with an unwanted acceleration problem. Periodically, about every 200 miles, when I try to brake and stop the car stops but the engine maintains its speed and does not slow to an idle. What can cause this. Honda examined brakes and looked for fault codes and says they cannot reproduce.
View 19 RepliesI just bought a 2003 Camry, 4 cyl (154000 mi.) and the accelerator is a DBW. It feels different than a cable in that it seems to hesitate and after it shifts into second the car accelerates on its own a little bit. This is not a rev up in between shifts, it actually feels like a lurch. It is most noticeable when speeding up slowly. I may be able to get used to it but it doesn't seem right to me. The dealer wants $120 to hook up their computer.
View 1 RepliesVehicle has 53000 miles. Check engine light all of sudden came on and the car reduced to 40ish miles per hour and would not exceed it. when parked the vehicle will only go to 3500RPM and then the needle will drop back down. No visible signs of fluids anywhere or any smoke. No sure where to start to see what the issue is.
View 8 Replieslots of hesitation upon acceleration..used fuel cleaner several times doesn't work ..what would cause this hesitation ?
View 5 RepliesI've had my 2013 Tiguan since July and have always noticed that it needlessly wants to downshift when going down hills. For instance, I might be doing 45-50mph down a hill... it'll be in 6th or 5th gear. If I tap the break, it downshifts. If I tap it again, it'll downshift again, to THIRD gear. The RPMs will shoot up to over 4,000. This also usually occurs if I put my foot on the break and keep there. So, if I'm on hilly roads... which is often being in Northwestern Connecticut, I'll engage the tiptronic.
Am I overreacting and is this just how the '13 Tiguan functions? Or is it a common problem with a fix?
2006 Prius 150,000+ miles. Tonight the Master warning light, brake system warning light, and Check engine light all illuminated on dash as well as the Hybrid System warning on the console. The car is idling at almost 40 miles per hour but does not allow any acceleration from the pedal. The engine will rev as if it wants to but no power.
View 11 RepliesWe bought a used 2001 Nissan Altima. It has 123,000 miles on it. It had a few minor issues, but recently it has started lurching when we go over 35 miles an hour and it will not accelerate.
View 2 RepliesInfo: O2J 1.8t, Peloquin LSD, clutchnet 6 puck, VF mounts
Getting a vibration on driver's side during either accel or load up a hill after driving for 20 miles. It's related to distance driven versus engine warm or cold. I can feel it in the pedals, definitely driver's side.
Things checked:
-axles, replaced driver's side, no change
-transmission is full of fluid, looks good
-motor mount bolts tight
-called Peloquins, they said the diff would cause issues while turning and would occur anytime under load, not just when cold
Wheel bearings have about 15k on them and were INA's, and those shouldn't vibrate only on accel or load. I thought about the dogbone, the poly bushings in it are about 35k miles, but makes no sense why it would appear after driving 20 miles.
I finally upgraded from my 1998 F150 5.4 to a 2008 F150 Lariat supercrew 4x4 5.4 3v with 83k miles. I've had the truck about a week and have already noticed an issue. During light to moderate acceleration, I notice a slight hiccup in the 30-40 mph range. This "hiccup" is best described as a quarter second dead spot in the throttle. At times, I have noticed an additional hiccup between 20-30 mph that does the same thing. Occasionally, I will also feel a slight vibration on take off. It's important to note that if I accelerate at a quicker pace or really get on it, I can't feel the issue. I have also had a tough time replicating the issue when I deactivated overdrive. Not to say it wouldn't do it, but I really couldn't tell if it was doing it. Also, I've noticed that when I really get on it, It takes maybe a second to catch before accelerating. (From what I've read, that's common for 5.4s though, just thought I'd note it)
I have had spark plug and coil pack issues out of my 1998 model, but they felt different than what this truck is doing. Is it possible that this is the same issue but is manifesting itself differently? I briefly spoke with my mechanic and he seems to think it sounds like a torque converter issue. He checked for codes and none were showing or pending in the computer. Transmission shifts good. Fluid is a pinkish orange color, and there are no metal shavings on the oil dipstick. I started to notice the truck would sometimes shift a little hard into 4th. I took the truck by my mechanic and he rode with me. I was able to replicate the original issue. He told me it felt like something in the transmission. He said that my fluid smelled a little burned to him, but it was still a pinkish orange color. He said he would service the transmission and adjust the bands. The truck has 83k miles so I'm not too worried about a major transmission problem. He said he was fairly certain the servicing would correct the issue. I'm also going to have him put a new set of coils and plugs on as well. Am I missing anything?
What would casue a clicking noise (like a sewing machine)under acceleration for the first several miles on a cold morning (50 degrees or below, we live in Louisiana)? Car is 2006 Chrysler 300C with 5.7L Hemi motor, 90,000 miles, all lifters replaced last summer - noise was apparent before new lifters. Dealership is stumped - they do not believe it is a problem with new lifters.
View 3 RepliesMy 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
View 8 RepliesI needed to replace the same (rear) catalytic converter of my 2006 Honda Pilot LX (2WD) in less than 16 months. The first time it happened in October 2014 when the vehicle had 160K miles (Car's service code was P0420), and the second time it happened this month (same code P0420), when the vehicle had 184K miles. I have it replaced at Honda Service both times.
When it happened for a second time so quick (160k miles wth first converter vs 24K miles with the second converter), I asked Honda Service for a free warranty replacement, but they said it only has 12K miles, and 12 month warranty on repairs, they called Honda corporate to see if they would do anything extra (they did not), but Lute Riley gave a discount to do it at their part & labor cost only ($800 first time vs $550 second time).
What could be the cause of the second catalytic converter to go bad so quick? I have been the owner and only driver of the vehicle since i purchased it new and my driving habits have not changed.
I have a 1992 Honda Accord with 270,000 on the odometer. Recently, I noticed little oil drops on the driveway floor where the front of the car is parked. What does this mean? The car consumes about a quart of oil every 2k to3k miles. Cause for concern?
View 9 RepliesDriving home today and all of a sudden, hot air... I stopped and turned the car off then back on, hoping to reset something. Still nothing.
It almost sounds as if I can't even hear the compressor kick on when I turn on the AC button.
Looks like I'm heading to the dealership tomorrow to see if this is still under warranty. Really upset being that this car is only two years old.
I have a 2011 Camry LE. I took it to have the oil changed today. The odometer was around 46,000 miles and that's what the service guy put in the computer. After the service was completed, the guy leaned in the car and had me turn the keys 2 clicks while he pressed the odometer button to reset the oil change light. It took him a few tries before he said "ok, got it." Afterwards, I noticed the odometer was reading 40,000. I showed it to him, and he had no explanation for what happened. Neither did anyone else that worked there. I called my local Toyota and they had never heard of that happening.
View 8 RepliesIn the past year or so mileage on my Honda Fit (08) has decreased at least 100 miles per tank full. Changed spark plugs, put in additive, changed air filter. Tires ok. I have 120,000 miles on it...
View 10 RepliesMy 2001Honda Civic EX (manual) has only about 46,000 miles on the clock and runs very well. My mechanic says I should consider replacing the timing belt (the manual suggests after seven years). I plan on keeping the car for many more years -- should I replace the belt now? How devastating is it if the belt breaks while driving?
View 5 RepliesFront discs and pads replaced about 10k ago and still under warranty - work done by my mechanic whom I have been patronizing for the last 8 years. When the brakes are applied at 40 MPH plus, get a low pitched "HMMMMMMMM" type of sound that goes away as the car decelerates through 40. It is sort of annoying but the brakes work perfectly fine. A mechanic that works for the shop rode with me and listened, and didn't offer much of an explanation or offer to remove the wheels and inspect the brakes. In other words, he cited this as normal. Would it be advisable to get a 2nd opinion? I've never had this issue with brakes on other vehicles I've owned, especially with new brakes.
View 10 RepliesI am driving 2013 Sonata for over 13 months, after 2 Synthetic oil changes, I have noticed that colours of oil turns darker after only 1500 miles each time, first synthetic was Quaker State and currently Castrol synthetic.
My Question is, what is the reason that causes the oil to turn dark,what is that substance which goes in oil to make it dark. My previous car Honda Accord could go 7,000 miles without any change in synthetic colours. Whatever it is which causes oil to get dark, cannot be good for engine.
I am being forced to change synthetic oil after 2000 miles. Do not want to drive my Sonata with dark oil. What causes even synthetic to turn dark after 1500 miles. Also why synthetic oil stays clear upto 1500 miles.
My 2011 SE is starting to get some engine knock at 50,000 miles. I don't believe the dealership has ever ran the recommended fuel cleaner through the car. Do you think that would take care of the issue? If I do run the fuel cleaner through it, do I have to use the Hyundai brand?
View 11 RepliesI am following the 7,500 maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes. At about 3,000 miles the color of the oil was golden brown but definitely had started to turn brown but still had a golden tint. Is light brown oil normal for 5,000 miles? The oil level is OK and still near the Full mark.
View 20 Replies