Honda - Cr-v :: 2008 - Bumping At 60 Mph And On A Smooth Road
Jul 30, 2012
At 60 mph + and on a smooth road, this 2008 CR-V presents with what seems to be an out of balance issue. You can feel it bumping when it reaches this speed and beyond. The car just turned 100k, had four new tires about a year and a half ago, but when this began occurring (and it was pulling to one side), the dealership recommended two new front tires due to something they couldn't pinpoint as to why the tires were wearing as they were. Replacing them fixed the pulling to one side problem but did not correct the bumping problem. The car has never been in an accident or been driven over a curb/bank, etc., is driven by the same person, has always been maintained at the same Honda dealership. It has been to them 3 times is about to go back for the fourth time. Could it be a bearing? An axel problem? Bad replacement tires?
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I am getting a clunk from the front passenger side when going over bumps or when the road is not smooth.
It seems to happen at lower speed, so when I am on the highway, I cannot hear anything. The sway bar link seems to be the common thing, but when the car was lifted, there was oil on one of the struts.
2008 3.3 Santa Fe ... The car has 115k KM. Is this a normal thing for it to fail at this point? Last time I had clunks in the suspension it was a sway bar link that was repaired at the dealer under warranty. I can't remember if this is the same sound or not.
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A few days ago I felt a feeling of bumping on a flat road when I turn slowly. I was wondering if it might be a transmission shift shock due to an insufficient warming at the cold temperature. It seemed such bumping didn't happen after enough warming more than 5 minutes.
The outside temp was just above 0 degree on yesterday morning, I started SF without warm-up and drove about 15 minutes. Then I was making 3 point turn on a residential road covered with a little bit of ice on its edge when I felt one of rear wheel was slipped a bit on the ice and rear wheel got locked or seized and skipped. Upon the complete turn I was able to drive the SF home slowly cautiously, however every time I made a slow sharp turn left or right there had been skipping leaving tire marks on the driveway.
I thought 4wd lock was initially activated at that time and it had not been deactivated since. I tried to push and release 4wd lock button several time with no success, and I felt the SF moving very heavier than usual. I was trying to park the vehicle backward with a sharp turn too, it was much harder to turn back than forward feeling like rear wheels were stuck somewhere, suddenly there was a loud banging or thumping sound from bottom behind. Right after the banging the SF was moving as normal.
Today I tested SF by driving above 60km/hr as well as sharp turning for 30 minutes, everything looked normal. A couple of hours later I decided to test 4wd lock button again. While I driving SF at about 10km/hr I pushed 4wd lock button and released it 15 seconds later. I did it a couple of times because I was not sure if 4wd lock was activated and deactivated. And I was making 3 point turn again, then the same rear wheel seizure and skidding happened. I stopped the SF and I pushed and released 4wd button a couple of times with no success.
Finally I tried to turn back as I did before, and there was a banging sound, I thought the sound was weaker than yesterday, since then everything went back to normal. There is no grinding or clunking noise from the area where the differential unit is located. I was wondering if mine has faulty electronic clutch itself or any other components. The warranty was over 5 months ago, mileage is only 49,000km.
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The Tiguan isn't so quiet when going over road bumps or potholes? Sometimes it's smooth, other times not so quiet and I can hear sounds from rear of cabin. Maybe more obvious after getting lots of rain too.
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I purchased a 2008 Honda CRV less than a month ago and felt it shaking every time it hit a bump in the road. Took i back to the dealer and he said strut and sway bar need replacing (it has 77,000 miles on it) and they weren't going to pay for that to be repaired.
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2008 Odyssey - sometimes produces loud whining noise. Noise will pause when I slightly touch the brake and resume when I release the brake surprisingly will pause when I hit the road bump.
Link to youtube video: [URL] ....
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I am driving along on Interstate 26, smooth road, no weather going on, clear night, about 7:30 pm, and the rear window on the driver's side just exploded.
Oblong hole in window, rest like a spider web. All fell out as I drove home.
Nothing hit it, had not been raised or lowered for hours, there is NO reason that I know for it to have happened. Bought car in March, 2012. 12,000 miles on it. NO other damage to car, inside or out.
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ON smooth highway at varying speeds I can hear a rhythmic bumping/thumping noise from the front end of our 2008 Limited with 26,000 miles. It is speed sensitive but I can't tell if it would be a wheel bearing going bad or tire noise from the stock Michelins or maybe one out of balance though I don't feel anything as much as I hear something. I guess I can take it to dealer to see if they can diagnose
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I have a 2008 Miata that is new to me (<40K miles). When I first drive it in the morning it has a very noticeable bumping feel for the first couple of minutes then smooths out and is not noticeable for the rest of the day, even if I park it for a couple of hours. I believe the bumping is coming from the rear driver's side. I just replaced the tires (thinking they were flat spotted), but the problem persists.
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. with 156k miles.
A couple days ago, the CEL came on. It drove fine, but if I accelerated it wouldn't shift smoothly. It felt like it was hitting the rev limiter.
I took it to get scanned, but the reader didn't work. On my way to another shop, the light went off.
Today, the light came back on with the same symptoms. No shops were open, so I disconnected the battery hoping to reset things, and it worked! No other issues on the way to work. Smooth shifts, smooth idle, simply normal.
Obviously there's an issue. Getting it scanned is a pain; AutoZone and the like cant scan in CA any more. What is the culprit? I'm guessing O2 sensor.
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My honda accord 2003, 4 cylinder (101000 miles) has constantly check engine light on, also transmission has been rough (it started right after a trip to mountains). The transmission sometimes becomes smooth as normal but still check engine light on and most of times transmission is jerky. I took it to mechanic, he did testing and there was no code.
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My truck has been running great for the lasts 2 years. Today is actually the 2 year anniversary of me buying the truck. Still have great power and rumbles great down the road with no lights or anything.
Lately though at stop lights my idle will be inconstant. Will either sit smooth at about 550rpm, or be high but smooth around 700, OR that one that worries me the most is it will idle at 550rpm then drop down to 450 or so then catch itself and go back to 550, then drop back down.
It has the usual maintenance, new spark plugs around 100k, oil change and air filter just a few weeks ago, so this idle has me a bit puzzled. Maybe time for a new fuel filter? MAF sensor dirty?
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I used to wonder if my engine was running when stopped at a light and marvel at the smooth ride of my 2008 LS460L.
Lately I have been feeling a rough idle when stopped and the ride feels jittery on smooth roads.The odd thing is the car idles smoother with the air conditioner running or when it is off. It is very noticeable when off and seems to be apparent when the car is fully warmed up .
The jittery road thing occurs both when the air is on and off. I bought the car CPO and it had the valve recall work performed (saw that was one possible cause).
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I have a 1991 Honda Accord with 280k miles on it.
Question: what would be reasons the engine dies when in operation? I had not noticed anything wrong with the car other than I noticed it may take the automatic transmission a little longer time to shift gears.
While I was on the road, i felt something happening under the hood and noticed the car was losing power. the battery and oil level lights went on and needed to pull the car to the side of the road for obvious reason!
The car was towed back to my house. During the ride back the guy who was towing the car said that the engine turned over when he turned on the ignition.
I did the same thing when I got home and the car started up just fine. Nothing else noticed. The oil level was at normal level. I drove the car a couple times around the block.
The engine is due for a tune up and there sometimes is some vibration. This car has been very reliable. But I obviously can not have situation where the engine dies when on the road!
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My odyssey stops running when I am driving on the road. The instrument panel goes off and the engine shuts down. There are 166,000 miles on it. I took it to the Honda dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
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My 2003 Honda Element sometimes generates a vibration that feels just like driving down a washboard dirt road. You know one that the ridges are very close together. This only happens around 40 MPH with a load on the engine. At first I thought it was a wheel, tire or suspension issue. But I can make it stop instantly by pushing or releasing the gas pedal. So this leads me to think it is transmission related. This is a automatic. I would like to see the car sometime but would not feel right about passing on this problem without knowing the cost to fix it. Stumped in Seattle.
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We have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
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2002 Honda Civic LX
Around 1 or 2 years ago, cruise control has started acting strangely. If weather or the engine are cold, and the road is smooth, then it works fine. However, in hot weather, or if the engine is hot, cruise control disengages and the car just slows down as if someone turned CC off. Sometimes this happens randomly, other times by a nudge from a bump in the road.
If I try to re-engage CC, it doesn't work. I have to reach to the CC master switch, turn that off, then back on, and then CC starts working again for a while - until I hit the next bump or something.
The problem seems to be getting slowly worse as time goes by. At first I had this problem in the middle of summer. Now CC is affected even in winter (or what passes for winter in California).
What could possibly cause this? If it's something that could be fixed by just replacing some component, I'd rather do it myself. But I don't know what part might be the culprit.
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I have a Honda Accord that has a very strange kind of failure. I've taken it to two mechanics - both fixed "something" - but I'm still without a car.
99 Honda Accord LX202,019 Miles
My check engine light is on and one time while driving down the road my car turns off. I need to make a road trip so I go see Mechanic 1.
Mechanic 1 - Check engine light had been on and his machine tells him the O2 sensors need to be replaced. We replace both. Light goes off. When asked about the 'spontaneous shutoff' - said it was a fluke and probably no big deal. He can't see anything other than what the computer tells him to replace.
Instrument panel currently shows no lights on. Everything works normally. I drive 1500 miles back to Wi and right as I get there....
Case 1 - I am driving down the street (residential, freeway, whatever) going any speed and the instrument panel suddenly loses all power. Speedometer drops to 0. Odometer drops to 0. The cabin (radio, clock) remain on and undisturbed. Engine is completely unresponsive to depressing the pedal and seems to be completely disengaged. The car is hard to steer but can be angled off the road. (but you can still hear your music....hooray...as you try to not get killed dodging off the side of the road)
Case 2 - On the side of the road/parking lot and the car will not turn on. Seems like it is about to start, but then dies before completing turning over. You wait 15 minutes. Then the car will actually turn over a bit more, but still not complete a start.
Case 3 - As I start the car I press the gas and rev the engine up to 4K RPMs for 4 seconds. The car then remains on. I drive for as long as it will go before Case 1 happens again.
While in WI I take it to a mechanic 2.
Mechanic 2 - Runs a test and believes there is a failure in the ignition assembly. Replaces 1 part that spans 3 different parts because he believes its cheaper to do that than to have him go all the way in there to get the 1 that he thinks is bad.
I drive the car 1400 back to AZ and Case 2 happens when we stop to get supplies. I perform case 3, the car starts and we make it back to California alive.
I try to drive the car around locally after getting back but cases 1-3 happen every other time I drive it.
Case X - The car sat idle for a few weeks as I thought it was "not safe to drive." Power locks on the car start to fail. No longer can get into the car without putting a key in a door and only that door will open. Car now has no power.
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback with 5 speed tranny, when I go to get moving the car bounces kinda like the clutch is getting disengaged too fast but it usually gets going just fine, this doesn't happen as bad when I accelerate slowly, when I disengage the clutch and get going it kinda lurches a few times. No matter the combo of clutch and gas I can't seem to get it to stop. This happens when I start in 1st and second gear, and a lot of the time if I accelerate quickly it will smell like burning rubber.
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2008 Touring model. When I encounter relatively small bumps, like, sealant over cracks on asphalt pavement, expansion joints, etc. there is a bumping noise from the front, seemingly the left, which I can feel through the steering wheel. The car handles and rides fine thus I am suspicious that it is a shock/strut issue, but I take note replacement is recommended at 60K miles. Mine has almost 120K.
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