Honda - Cr-v :: 2007 - Battery Keeps Dying Approximately Every 2-3 Weeks
Mar 29, 2015
The battery in my 2007 Honda CR-V keeps dying approximately every 2-3 weeks. There is no electric at all; I can't use the key fob to open the car, etc. When I jump the car, it is completely fine for about 2-3 weeks and then it just randomly dies again. It always dies at the same time/place - in my garage sometime during the night. I have never had it die anywhere else or at any other time. When it first happened I took it to one mechanic who told me the battery was dying. So, I replaced the battery (this was within the last 3 months).
Then 2 weeks later the car died again. I took it to a different mechanic and they tested the battery and alternator and said they were both fine. They said the battery coils were loose so they tightened them and said I should not have any further problems. Two weeks later the car died again. I called the same mechanic back and said it died again. They told me they fully tested the battery and alternator, and everything in the car looked find so what was causing this.
They suggested that perhaps there is a light on somewhere - like the glove box - and I just don't realize it. I checked and there is no light in my glove box so that can't be the problem. I thought perhaps it was because it was winter, but now the weather is in the 40s and 50s and it just died again two nights ago. I really don't know what to do since the mechanics I have gone to say everything is fine with the car.
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My wife was recently driving our 2007 Honda Odyssey on the highway at approximately 60mph when the van suddenly and significantly decelerated. It did this while my wife had her foot on the accelerator and without her activating the brakes. It occured twice in quick succession and then the van returned to normal operation. She did not notice an increase in rpms or hear any loud noises. After this happened, I took the van to the local Honda dealer and they could not find anything wrong with the vehicle. They made an educated guess that it might be the beginning signs of a transmission failure. The van has 72000 miles on it. I am concerned about the safety implications if this were to happen again...
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My 2009 awd SF is less than 4 years old and has about 81500 km on. In the past few days, I start to feel a little hesitation while starting the car. I have an incident today in which the car barely turn over - behaved exactly as if the battery is dying. Took it to the dealer and spent 55$ for a diagnosis => alternator is OK (what a relief) but the battery is weak. I do not think battery would die (stop holding charge) this soon. I expect at least 5-6 years of service from a battery.
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I only drive my 2007 Kia Sedona about once a week. (No,I'm not a little old lady, but I do have cats). Anyway, I keep having to replace my battery. Kia tells me the computer is draining the battery and I need to run the car at least 30 minutes a week. Sounds fishy to me. But if that's true, is there a way to keep it charged? I've considered a trickle charger, but I'm disabled and am concerned about being able to disconnect and connect it.
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Well my two weeks of Touareg bliss just ended with a dead battery. I guess two weeks out of car is all you can expect. I know I'm not the first... but seems pretty unbelievable in that I have never had such a problem with any other car in 35 years.
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I have a '05 Honda odyssey that has recently started showing drop in rpms at approx 30MPH. At that speed, I see that RPM suddenly drops from 2500 to 2000, pressing on gas really hard, triggers downshifting of gears and everything comes back to normal. I suspect some issues with how gears are being shifted...
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So I went to put my R32 back on the road yesterday, it has been garaged since November. Over the winter I had gone out to start her every 2-4 weeks. She would start right up all winter. 2-3 weeks ago I went out to start her and she started right up! Then last night, I went to go start her for her maiden voyage of 2015, and boom dead. What would cause this or if I should be worried?
I would let her run for about 20 minutes when I started her each time this winter, the previous successful start was no different.
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Went out to touareg this am to go play golf...car would not start! 2nd time this happened, in 3 weeks! They gave me some BS about a signal coming from local station that puts radio in an on position waiting for a signal.
Well, I call this am to tow, the service MANGLER states that there software fix! Well, I will let them know I want a NEW battery...and the problem fixed. Also, tires a wearing a little on front after 20,000 rotation. I will see what they will do.
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So i recently bought this 2002 honda civic, and seeing as the owner said it only needed a new windshield, rear strut, rear brakes, and new front tires, it wasn't a bad deal. I never got time to fix anything before I went on vacation for 2 weeks. It's been parked in the garage the entire time I was away, but when i went to start it up and pull it out it wouldn't move. It started perfectly fine, i took the E-brake off, but it wouldn't move unless I revved it to around 4-5k rpm, and even then it wouldn't go more than an inch.
So I put it in neutral to see if i could push it. it only moved when i got it rocking pretty good, but that's when i noticed the right rear tire had skidded the whole way. When i first got it i did notice a slight grinding type sound coming from the rear every time the car moved, but I didn't pay too much attention to it seeing as the car wasn't leaving the driveway for awhile anyway. Well now its permanently stuck until i find a solution.
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I'm still trying to decide whether to get a Prius. I'm looking at a 2014 new III. Question: My friend who has a 2001 Prius (whose original hybrid battery is still going strong, by the way) says that if she does not drive her Prius for 2-3 weeks, her starter battery will need a jump. Is that particular to Priuses, or do all newer cars with the keyless entry and/or theft deterrent do that?
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2005 Honda Civic which has been pretty reliable up to this point. Had all the suggested maintenance services up until the most recent which just passed. Last oil change and inspection: Early November.
Last month:Went to start up the car and it basically went all blinky with power. But after letting it sit for a minute or two, it started up just fine. This happened three times. On the third time opened up the hood and found corrode on both polls of the battery. Scrubbed and cleaned the posts and connectors. Had the battery tested and it was just fine. After that no problems or occurrences. Only things that lingers in my head is that perhaps the driver door window rolls down slowly (thought the motor was going out and would have to replace soon) and the headlines would slightly dim and waver at times, but not consistently.
Now:Just got back from vacation and car has been sitting about two weeks. Mostly in weather below freezing, but in a garage. Went to start up the car and the starter would rev but the engine would not turn over. Battery seems to be good still. Jumping did not work either.
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2000 Chevrolet 3500, rear wheel drive Fleetwood, 5.7 liter engine. Slightly over 200k miles on it. I bought it used on June 2nd this year. Bought it from a construction company and they take good care of their vehicles. They must have used it a lot on dusty roads. I made sure the air filter and brake fluids are OK.
June 2014, got new rotor and spark plugs, then after the engine quit on the road home, I had a sensor replaced somewhere in the axle, or transmission, an odd place. Now after 2.5 months of smooth operation, the 5 year battery died (it lived almost 6 years). I put in a new 84 month, heavy duty battery yesterday. Got in the truck to start it up and "click." The battery is doing its thing, lights up the dials and lights if necessary. I turn the key and pause a moment, I hear the fuel pump turn on. Then I turn the key and "Click." The engine does not make any effort to turn over. "Click." Nothing. There is a half tank of gas in it.
I suspect maybe a solenoid as part of the starter, maybe the fuel pump, maybe a blown starter fuse, or blown fuel pump fuse. Thing is they are square fuses and I can't see inside of them whether something is worn out.
We live 60 miles from a Chevrolet shop and maybe 50 from a generic shop. Having the truck towed that far will cost a fortune.
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So, for the last week or so my cars has started dieing while driving. First time it died randomly when approaching stop signs a couple years ago. Now it seems to have progressed and dies while on the highway and now has become more frequent to date. I checked for vacuum leak and spraying all visible lines that I could see from engine bay. Engine codes...the array of engine codes. P0420 catalyst system efficiency, P0706 trans solenoid 'C' clutch, and P0430 another catalyst system inefficiency to join it's brother P0420. The car starts up fine in the morning. Car does not ride rough.
Today I changed the spark plugs and noticed oil in all 4 wells and a lot of oil in the 3rd one. I changed the spark plugs because they were 20k miles and figured I might as well replace them while I'm diagnosing the car. So turned back on the car after doing the job and got a puff of smoke...go to o'reillys and new codes. P108(MAP Pressure Circuit High Input), P110(Something about coolant being high input) and still the P0420. (Shop I took it to must have removed old codes. Not sure why).
So there shouldn't be oil in the wells because my shop did head gasket job 2 years ago. I'm pretty confident in their work, so I'm thinking it must be blowby and because the amount of oil in all 4 wells. (But then again this is the cars second head gasket job, so who knows) If it is indeed the rings causing blow by, is it safe to drive around with oil in the wells? If I drain it regularly can I continue to drive it safely? Is there a test to determine if it's blowby?
I ran car for oil cap off looking for smoke, nothing. I did feel a steady stream of air though, not sure what's normal and abnormal on that front.
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So here's the deal my '02 prius' traction battery is dying really fast. But here's the thing, it will charge fully and be fine for a few months and then one day Its like the battery says, "now I don't want to play anymore." and dies really fast and is a pain to charge even a little bit. I can even drive to work (at least half an hour away) and I can get to freeway speeds and charging 95% of the way and it will still be at a very low charge. Then after a while it will charge all the time while staying fully charged. I'm eventually going to replace the battery anyway but wanted to know if it sounded like something else, too.
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I bought the car brand new in May of 2009. All was good until February of last year when the battery died. I kind of wrote it off as one of those things that's part of life in AK. But then the same thing happened in November - yes, it was cold again, but it died after I'd successfully started it and drove it to my husband's work. He was inside for maybe thirty minutes. Not wanting to waste gas, it turned the car off and listened to the radio. When hubby came back, I tried to start the car and ... nothing. We had to get it jumped. Hubby said I shouldn't have been listening to the radio with the engine off. Anyway, I had a service appointment at the dealership a few days later and mentioned that the battery died again. They checked it and said it was weak so they replaced it.
Now, of course, I'm super-paranoid about everything that could be draining the battery. I turn the lights off whenever I turn off the engine (even though that's supposed to be something the car does automatically), and only listen to the radio when I'm driving. I've made sure that there's nothing plugged in any of the power outlets, and I don't have anything that's aftermarket. Oh, and middle of last year the radio/CD player died too, and that had to be replaced. Don't know if it's linked, but it's still odd.
The only advice the dealership had was to drive it more. I guess I'm pretty severe on the car - work's maybe a fifteen minute drive (20 if it's snowing) and a fair few of my journeys are short ones, for a variety of reasons. Plus, it's Anchorage, AK. Severe driving's standard here. But I never had these issues with my other cars, and my driving patterns haven't changed at all. Could there be something that's draining the battery that I haven't thought of, or am I really stuck with driving around Anchorage aimlessly for at least 20 minutes each time I get in the car?
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with about 130k miles on it. For some reason my car has been dying lately. It did this a few times so the obvious thing was to buy a new battery- oct 2011. Everything was good for a couple months but I recently went on a trip for the weekend and when I came home the car was dead. I jumped it and everything was good until this week. I had a work conference and left wednesday at 8am. When I got home Friday at 5pm the car was dead again. I had an alternator test done before but could it be the alternator? I love my little car and would like to get a couple more years out of her!!!
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My battery has been dying intermittently. Twice after a week long vacation I have come home to a dead battery. No lights were on in the car and no clear source of a leak. It charged up but would die again after 12 to 24 hours of sitting in the driveway. After the 1st episode mechanics said the alternator and all voltage testing was normal so they just replaced the battery. After the 2nd incident I took my car to a new mechanic and they are saying again the alternator is fine but noticed the battery is shorting (alternator output amperage too high and voltage too low - they put in the shop battery and all returned to normal) and they say I need ANOTHER new battery. I have a hard time believing this but no one can figure out why my car battery keeps dying????
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Only electrical mod that was done was the fog light mod so I can turn them on when I want... Is it possible that even if the fog lights are off, that they are pulling some juice from the battery ? In the last 6 months my car has died 4 times, ever since the fog light mod.
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2009 Accent GL Sport manual transmission. Battery keeps dying. 2 batteries over the last 9 months. This is on my son's car. Replaced battery and a few months later it's dead again. Had the system checked no drains on the battery, alternator work great. No fathom drains in the system. The car can set for a week before being driven. The only thing we can think of, because it's not driven every day, the little battery drains out by the systems in the car(clock, etc.). we think there's a .8 amp drain or less.
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My father in law gave us a car to use so my husband can get back n forth to work. Recently it started dying on him while he was on the highway and we don't know whats wrong with it. His father told us its a brand new batter that was put in it before he gave it to us. The car is a 1990 Honda Accord. The radio already doesn't work so its always off. The car dies no matter if heat/air is on or off. I don't think it could be a battery problem. There's 2 lights that come on when it dies: battery and oil. We put oil in it. The weird thing is that after it dies, we put it in park and turn key in ignition to off position and then restart it and it starts right back up with no problem. We really don't know whats wrong with it but cant afford to take it to mechanics to tell us 100 other things wrong with it..
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Installed new motor in 2000 celica gt after blown piston on monday the 17th. From monday 17th to thursday night on the 20th the car battery and alarm worked with no issues.
I was installing the touchscreen and sub in the car the night of the 20th and when i pulled the positive terminal from the battery to power the sub, then reinstalled the terminal but the alarm went off and would not disarm via the remote (that has worked for several years before the repair job). I tried replacing the battery but still nothing. i even check voltage on the remote board to verify output voltage when button was pressed.
I called Audiovox and they had me remove the 10 pin connector to disable the alarm and that worked. i drove the car home the night of the 20th. the morning of the 21st the car started fine and the audio system was installed and working.
The afternoon of the 22nd i went to start the car and it was dead. I have tried disconnecting the audio system to check that but the battery still dies overnight.
I used a amp meter to check the draw on the battery on on saw .94 amp with the door open and light on. i saw .14 amp's with the door shut and no light. This just doesn't seem like enough draw to drain the battery but i still have to pop the clutch in the morning to go to work.
I have noticed that my drivers door does not lock using the controls inside the car. I do not know what kind of alarm system is on the car, it has no markings on the case or the board itself. the serial number did not pull a single result in google. I called audiovox because that's who makes the shock sensor on the car, they say its universal.
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