Honda - Cr-v :: 2007 - Air Conditioning Shutting Off When Car Stops
May 2, 2013
I have a 2007 Honda CRV. Last year the air conditioning stopped working and my local shop said the compressor went out and replaced it. It's been a very cold and wet spring so I haven't needed to use the air until the other day - and discovered it wasn't working again. Took it back and they said it was a leaky valve - replaced that and recharged it. When I drove it next, it was blowing cold air nicely, but I noticed when I stopped the car at a light, the car kinda shuddered like the engine was going to die. It didn't and I drove on, but the air conditioning stopped blowing cold air a little bit later. I turned it off, waited a minute and then when I turned it back on, the air was cold again. Every time I stopped the same thing would happen - engine acted like it was going to die and then air stopped working a little later.
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Trying to track down an air conditioning problem. Seems like a vacuum leak somewhere is screwing with my AC and shutting it down upon giving it any throttle (hills etc). Where should I look first or is there a certain area that is prone to leaks?...truck is a stock 1993 F-350 460/auto.
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I have a 2006 ford taurus that the dash started flickering about a month ago then it was fine for a couple weeks, yesterday it started flickering again, and then today it completely stopped working all gauges like car is off, check engine and battery light is on as well as oil light, car runs great regardless of cluster out or not. Air conditioning goes out when cluster goes out. I see many things on lights for the cluster but nothing for this and nothing with the a/c as well.
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I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
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On my previous cars (1992 Mercury Tracer and 1995 Taurus) the air conditioning eventually went out. That has me thinking about how to keep it going for as long as possible in my new car (2011 Honda Fit). My theory is that by not putting the temperature on the lowest setting, and not running the fan speed past the 2nd setting, that the system will go longer before needing to be replaced. Am I right?
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I have a 2002 CRV and the air conditioner went out a year and half ago. We decided not to get it fixed due to the cost of over $1,200.00.A loud noise just developed in the water pump area of the motor so our garage changed the water pump. The noise went away for about 15 minutes as we were driving home from the shop. However, now the shop is saying they have to replace the air conditioner (still over $1,200.00), that we shouldn't drive it until we do and that they won't warranty the repair due to problems with Honda CRV's.Can we do anything so we don't have to do the repair and if we don't will any other part of the car be affected such as engine cooling or windshield defrosting?
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We have a 2010 honda Odyssey and we are experiencing some air conditioning problems. The ac went out on us about 6 months ago so we had the compressor replaced. A few weeks after that the ac would intermittently start blowing warm air. We took it back to the shop and they noted that the compressor was shutting off for some reason. They replaced the compressor again, but we are still experiencing the same problem. It will just start blowing warm air for about 15-20 minutes then it will start blowing cold again. This will happen about once every 2-3 days. We replaced the relay, but that didn't work. They have checked for leaks, recharged the compressor and checked the freon and still nothing.
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2002 Honda Civic LX
Maybe a year ago I started having problems with air conditioning. The hot air part works fine, no problem whatsoever. But the cold air thing doesn't work as it used to. It's not the fan - the fan blows enough air for a little storm, it's just not cold enough.
First time I noticed, it just stopped making cold air for maybe 15 minutes. Air was coming in at ambient temperature, not even a degree cooler than that. Then it started working again. Ever since then I've had intermittent failures like this, and then it would start working again. It's not a change in flow, it's a change in temperature.
Second symptom - even when it does work, it seems inconstant. Before, I could just set it and forget. Now sometimes it seems more fidgety, and I have to keep turning the button when it starts acting up.
Third symptom - it doesn't seem to make any cold air at all when the engine is idle. The engine must run at normal cruise speed to get any cold air out of it. Before, it was slow to make cold air when idle, I had to wait a while, but eventually it would start to make cold air. Nowadays, if I'm coasting downhill, there's no cold air at all.
I'm worried that one day it will stop working altogether. Plus, it's not fun when it's hot outside and this thing decides to take a vacation. I didn't care about it in winter, because the hot air works fine, but now that summer is knocking at the door, this is suddenly a problem.
What might have gone wrong? Is it something that's easy to fix at home, or should I take it to the mechanic?
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I have a 2005 Honda Accord EX 4-cyl with a very peculiar problem. The car will start and run fine as long as I don't have to shut it off and restart it. However, once I shut it off, it will not start back up unless I give it some gas. Once started, the car will not idle unless the gas is pressed to maintain revs. This happens when the car is shutoff for a just one second, and only when warm. Once the car cools down, it starts and idles fine.
I've tried changing the FI Main Relay and it didn't work. I've also flushed the coolant and changed the radiator cap which seemed to work a little bit. I recently cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve which didn't make any difference. The Fuel Filter has been replaced as well. There are no CELs on and the car has 267,000 miles.
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Two years ago, I purchased a 1998 Honda Accord LX from a local dealer. I've had very few issues with it. However, shortly after I moved from Michigan to Florida, I began to notice a strange issue with my car. While the car is running and the engine is idling, I lose AC inside the car and the engine heat slowly begins to build.
The AC isn't shutting off, but instead blowing out warm air. The engine heat builds at a concerning enough rate, moving from a normal level to almost maxing out the gauge in the span of 20-30 minutes. This issue seems to auto-correct itself while the car is in motion, with the AC putting out nice, cool air and the engine heat staying at a normal level.
The car currently has about 269,000 Miles on it. I have been told the problem is likely a faulty thermostat, but I'd like a second opinion. What might be wrong with my car?
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What should the A/C high and low side pressure readings be for a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe SE?
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2007 Ford F150 half-ton. No cooling of air at the outlet of the ductwork. Freon charge is good, I watched the tech pull the system down and hold it for the prescribed time period. Compressor will not start. I am being told that this means a failed compressor, but I am of the idea that the pressure switch for low pressure must have failed, or the orifice is stopped up. I am also being told that the compressor, evaporator, and orifice tube needs replaced in order to remedy this issue. The counter man at my local parts house cannot find in his computer any pressure switches, kinda making me think that everything is in the unit. In short, if I can avoid buying the compressor, I would like to.
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I wanted to share my current ordeal with my ES 350. I was driving my 2008 ES 350 on freeway when check air conditioning words flickered on my NAV and started getting warm air. Not sure whats going on, i switched it off. After few minutes i got Check VSC and the sign for VSC lit up on the display.
At this point I called my lexus dealer while driving. They told me that i should bring the car in etc. After few minutes, the check engine light came on, then i pulled over on the shoulder and called Lexus again. Then I thought I should at least get off the freeway. But when I tried to start the car, nothing happened. Brake pedal was stiff and nothing when tried to start the car.
I just called AAA for tow, called Lexus dealer again and explained to them that i am bringing the car over. The dealer called back and said engine overheated and needs to be replaced and possibly transmission too. I was really surprised.
My car has 86K on it and all services performed as expected.
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The air con seems to work OK on the right side outlets, but the air comes out warm on the left side outlets.
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I had a new condenser put in last summer and the aircon has worked fine since then. Hot weather last week, aircon worked for a few days, then suddenly not working any more. The ac magnetic clutch is kicking in, the fuses all seem ok, I removed the low and high pressure caps and there seems to be a bit of freon fizzing on the valve after I removed the caps so I assume pressure is ok (don't have gauges -maybe Ill buy on ebay). Is there a low pressure switch that I can bypass to see if that makes it work?? or something else I can do? I assume if the clutch is kicking in and there is no squealing, that the compressor is probably ok?
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I bought my Saturn Vue Hybrid and was driving for a week when I heard a sound while driving and suddenly the air conditioning quit working and started blowing hot air. I took it to Pep Boys and they told me to take it to a dealership. After three hours and 143 bucks I was told the A/C clutch appears to have come off of the compressor. I have noticed others have had this same issue in Hybrids. Is this a recall or what do I do since this repair is not a cheap one? Also, what other models have the same ac compressor/ clutch for purchasing?
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It's been my goal to get my car to run a 13 on the stock turbo for years. I got bored last night and decided to roll out to the track and finally did it. In the past I had tried just about everything, pulled the back seats out, ditched the spare, and hours of data logging timing trying to dial it in just right but never could. Of course last night I was running with a full interior, spare and even had a passenger with my timing still pulled back -2.25 deg from the summer heat, didnt even check my oil or air pressure and I pull this off
R/T: .498
60': 2.147
1/8: 8.983@79.47mph
1/4: 13.818@102.59mph
Only problem is this was really my only goal for the car so I dont know wtf to do now??
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I have a 1998 Honda accord with 4 cyl. engine. Recently, the engine would stop at then end of the first block after 8 hours or longer of parking. I am very light on the gas pedal. I generally release the gas and let it roll for a couple of seconds before applying the brakes at the stop sign and during the time, the engine seem to throttle a bit then stops. After a restart and applying gas, it seem fine. What can be wrong with it?
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My 2007's drivers side headlight is randomly shutting off. I can see it slightly flutter when I inspect it. I'm not sure how to replace it. I've taken off the cap/wiring harness and can see the end of the lamp but it isn't clear to me how to proceed.
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My 1992 Accord driver side window goes down fine. But when you go up, it stops about ever 3 or 4 inches. You hit the button up and it wont do anything. Then you push up on it with your hands and it makes a *CLICK* noise. Then you hit the button up again, and it goes up another 3 or 4 inches. And you just repeat that until it goes up. Any clue what the problem is. I tried to get into it so i could try to investigate, but i had some probs gettin to it. I had the door panel off, disconnected the door handle mechanism and all that. Can i get any deeper than that? is there another sheet metal panel that can be removed?
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My AC stops working intermittently - I got a whole new compressor about 2 years ago, then it stopped working altogether about a month ago, they said they couldn't find any leak but filled it up w/ added dye. Now it blows cold for awhile on the highway, but will randomly blow warm air, and also blow warm air when I'm stopped at a light (Which is no good in Phoenix, AZ) I took it back in and they said they couldn't find a leak or anything wrong with it, that some hose was probably just freezing and then I would have to wait for it to thaw... but that doesn't explain why it never happened before... and it's not normal (clearly)... I just want a car that I don't have to roast in this summer!
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