Honda - Cr-v :: 2007 - AC Goes From Cold To Warm Gradually
Aug 27, 2012
2007 Honda CRV EX80k MilesAC goes from cold to blowing out warm air
Starting up the car and driving the air is nice and cold for 15 minutes or so.It then slowly goes to warmer air over the next few minutes while driving. Pulling over and checking the AC line with my hand under the hood it is going from ice cold to warm.When it is in this mode of warm air, turning the ac on and off with the dash button you can hear the cooling fan kick in but not the click you usually hear which I think is the compressor clutch engaging. If you turn on and off enough while driving it can sometimes go back to good cold air again very quickly.
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For over 3 years, my 2001 Honda Odyssey transmission has had a whine, gradually increasing in volume. The pitch increases with speed, not RPMs because it continues to increase pitch when it shifts and reduces RPMs. There are no performance issues, and there are no error codes when hooked to the computer. The transmission was put in at 93,000, 80,000 miles ago. Had fluid flushed and replaced with no effect.
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My 2007 Honda Odyssey has problems with the A/C blower. When I turn the AC on, the vents have nice cold air coming from the passenger side if the car, but the driver side is warm. It's not until about 20 minutes in, that the drivers side finally cools to the right temperature. Both drivers side and passenger side temperatures are synced together at the same temperature on the dash panel. Why would this happen? Isn't there just one compressor and one blower mechanism??
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The other night I passed a car overheating (Subaru) and checked my temp gauge and saw my needle was gradually climbing towards the half mark. This is not normal for my 96 Honda Accord. No lights coming on, so I blasted the heater and needle immediately returned to it's normal position. Filled the coolant, it was low, but the problem remains if the heater isn't turned on to at least 3. This doesn't seem extreme enough to be the thermostat. Could my fan be out?
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This one comes just in time when the cold and bad weather has started! My car is exhibiting certain symptoms and I am trying to figure out whether this is an issue with physical duct and air passageway components, the computer or something else....
When I turn on climate control, the car will blow air temp according to the one inputted only when I am driving, as soon as I come to a standstill, no matter what temp i input in the CC on the center console, the air will be freezing cold.
Now I don't know if its the computer sending improper signals to the duct system, a bad sensor or some problem with the duct passageway system.
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My 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
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Last week I drove my 2007 Honda Odyssey with about 100k on a 4 hour trek in the cold, and all of the sudden the heat stopped working. The fans were blowing, but warm air was not coming out. It was Christmas eve and nothing I could really do about it, so let it be. Drove another 10 minutes that night with no heat to my destination, and many hours later still Christmas eve I drove another 15 minutes. Heat didn't work, but car operated just fine.
Christmas day, drove the car for about 20 minutes with no heat, and all of the sudden the temperature gauge skyrockets, and the engine light goes on, the car is clearly overheating (could smell smoke from the engine). Let the car cool for the rest of the day, check it and there is no coolant at all. Had a local mechanic check some other things like the thermostat but found nothing, so refilled the coolant, and drove 4 hours again with no problems--heat works and everything. I was expecting to have to stop all the time to refill the coolant, but didn't have to because it never leaked on the entire trip. I took the car to the Honda dealer and they check it and find no leaks and nothing else wrong with the car, and offer no explanation on how the coolant magically disappeared, only confirming that they cleaned coolant which had leaked/spilled all over. The only possible explanation was that I had some work done on the car a few months ago (new belts) and the mechanic I used didn't flush the coolant properly.
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Up until my last oil change at 105,000 miles, I didn't notice any oil usage. When draining my oil, it didn't look like it was quite 4 quarts. After the oil change, I ensured that I had the engine exactly topped off to the upper mark on the dipstick. Around 600 miles later, I parked in the same location and have noticed that the oil level has dropped enough to notice. I am guessing that I will lose well over a quart between oil changes. Before I resign to the normal mechanical reasons (rings, cylinder wear, etc.)
The loss doesn't seem to be gradual which has me looking for other explanations. I also had a Toyota mechanic go over the car and replace the other fluids and filters at 100,000 miles (coincidence I think ).
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My 2007 Civic Hybrid is having trouble starting. This happens when it's cold out, it's been sitting outside overnight (I don't have a garage), and the IMA battery is low. I've taken it to the dealership but they were not surprisingly no luck. The car has about 65,000 miles and a new battery - the one in front - was put in not too long ago and tests fine.
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My 2007 Honda Accord has been having a noisy power steering pump for the last 8 months. I would have changed the power steering pump however the noise only occurs in the morning- especially when its cold. I live in Southern California so its really never that cold (mid 40’s). Once I drive the car for a few miles the noise completely goes away (especially after driving high speed). Lately, the pump is making the noise every morning.
Immediately after the noise started I had the power steering fluid flushed and system bleed for air pockets. 2 months ago the dealer changed the return line on the system because of a recall on the power steering system. Still the noise continues! I noticed the power steering fluid looks a little frothy when the car is running. Don’t know if this is normal. Car has about 150k miles.
Should I change the power steering pump? Or have the fluid flushed again. What might be causing the noise? The last time I flushed the system it only stop the noise for about a month.
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Mid- july I had the compressor rebuilt when the A/C suddenly started blowing warm air one week prior to a 1200 mile road trip.
Two weeks later the car wouldn't start. The battery (still under warranty) checked out as "good" was charged up and started the car fine. It needed an oil change before we headed home and the lube shop said that the coolant was low. I mentioned that I thought this was strange since I just had the compressor fixed and the guy and the quick lube just shrugged and I paid to top off the coolant. The next morning we set out towards home- 1200 more miles.
About 100 miles into the trip I noticed the A/C didn't seem to be blowing very cold. It was cool. Not cold. It was better after we stopped the car for lunch and that lasted for about 5 miles. When we stopped, our car was leaking copious amounts of fluids from both the engine and the passenger rear side of the car. By about 300 miles into the trip, the rear AC wasn't blowing at all. By 500 miles in NOTHING WAS BLOWING. Still leaking tons of fluids. Seemingly water.
We drove through the night with complaints of heat from the kids. Parked the car in the driveway. I moved the car into the garage... and I turned on the A/c to see if it was now working. The engine started to scream and smoke was rising from the hood. This didn't stop when I turned off the A/C.
The next morning, the battery was dead again. I had it towed to our mechanic. Other than the battery he could find nothing wrong. No noises. no smoke. A/C blowing AND it's blowing cold. Possible leak from the compressor (which I told him was under warranty from the guys who put it in and asked him not to touch it). They charged the battery.
I drove it to the A/C guys (A/C is blowing fine). They admit the A/C isn't as cool as one might hope. They drive it. Seems fine. Possible Coolant leak, but it's raining and they can't find the leak. They keep the car overnight. The Battery is dead the next morning. They replace the battery with a loaner. I'm desperate for my car. I pick it up and agree to bring it back in a few days to have them check the coolant levels and the battery.
NOW... Car starts, but it seems sluggish. The car revs like a formula 1 race car from 1st gear through 4th (maybe). The A/C is blowing cold (What the?? Blowing and cold?). Still leaking a lot of fluids (condensation?). Why? AND the check engine light has never gone on. What is wrong with my car???
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The serpentine belt starting squeaking on cold and damp mornings about 18 months ago at about 60K. I replaced it with a Dayco belt, and the noise went away for about 6 months. When the weather turned cold last winter, the noise came back. So I changed the tensioner with both idler pulleys right about when the weather warmed up, and it was fine all summer. Now that it has gotten cold again, the squeak is back yet again and as before it goes away when the car warms up. I know it is the serpentine belt because when I spray it with water the noise immediately stops. I checked all the pulleys with the belt off and when I spin them I hear no noise. Is there something else it could be?
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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Car is fully warmed up (200 deg) and the vents blast ice cold air even on 84 deg temp setting. If I put it on hi-temp it blasts really hot air (like it should). Why I can't get in between temps? This has been going on for 3 weeks now but not all the time.
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So I went on a trip with my 7.3 PSD the other weekend. It was a 4 hour drive. After 3 hours of driving with the A/C on, the air temp started getting warmer to the point were it seemed like the A/C wasn't working at all. After reaching our destination we didn't drive the truck much or use the AC for 4 days. On the trip home, the AC worked perfectly for the first 3 hours. Then again, the last hour it started to warm up like the AC wasn't functioning at all.
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My accord 1998 only start when it is warm (between 12:00 and 3:00). I changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, and fuse. but it is still the doing the same thing.
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I sometimes pulloff after a minute then Im off, but slowly until the engine temp gets to the middle. I won't go caveman on it until the oil temp is almost in the middle too (never quite gets to the middle for the engine oil temp)
Is this logic right? Lexus guy told me it'll warm up as you go. If it was like zero degrees out then yes Id let it idle for 10-15 minutes.
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Is is best to check the oil in the FSI 2.0T when the engine is warm or cold?
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When the a/c fan is on any setting other than the highest setting the air comes out cold. When the fan is set to the highest setting, it only comes out warm. This happens regardless of a/c or max a/c setting, regardless of fresh or recirculated air, and regardless of car speed. (2005 Mustang GT)
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The a/c and heater are not operating properly. Not cold enough and not getting warm. Low freon, compressor going bad?
On a brighter note...I've sat looking down into a volcano that could blow at any moment.
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I have a 99 Honda Accord, 94 K miles, received from Philadelphia last fall. When the car is cold, it idles when stopped (e.g. at a light) fine, but when it warms up, it idles so low it feels like it will stall. Also, once parked, or sometimes idling, a smell of rotten eggs comes form the exhaust. The check engine light remains on, though I replaced the gas cap. Is altitude the culprit? How to fix? It was serviced before I received it and I've changed the oil at 3 K miles once. I mostly drive low miles, locally.
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