Honda - Cr-v :: 2006 - Way To Adjust Engine Valve?
Jul 25, 2011
I see some times in this forum people say their car isn,t running smoothly etc. Some tell them they need the valves adjusted as they are to tight. I have never heard of valves getting tighter as an engine wears,I always found there is more slack as they wear. I am 81 years old now so the last valves I adjusted were on a 92 Honda accord 4 cyl. I didn,t adjust them because they were too tight, just the other way around. Am I out of touch with something here ? I am now the owner of a 06 Honda CRV.
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2006 Honda Element 2.4 ... I developed an unknown bad oil leak. Low oil indicator light did not come on. Highway drove it down to one qt. Now blowing blue smoke and lost power. Why my oil light did not come on?
Also, I have needed a purge control valve for quite some time. Could this of caused the oil leak?
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I just had my turbo and the EBPV on the pedestal rebuilt. Now I need to put it back into the truck. What is the procedure, if any, to adjust the EBPV? I only use the truck to haul a 5th wheel RV and the performance chip closes the EBP valve when going down steep hills -( EXHAUST BRAKE)
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I have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
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I have a 2006 Kia Spectra with 74K miles. It was apparently neglected before I bought it (at 55K miles), and has a case of engine sludge. It's clogging my oil control valve, and a couple engine flushes (by Kia dealer) over the last year have failed to correct the problem thus far. The car runs ok, but cannot pass an emissions test due to the check engine light and corresponding codes. Can I perform the flushes myself? What product should I use? Can I safely remove and clean the OCV myself? What product should I use?
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Got Engine Code P0022. Listed several things, Cam Position Indicator (replaced it) and CVVT Oil Control Valve Bank 2. Dealer calls them "front" and "rear". Is Bank 2 the rear (Black or gray also).
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The 2010 elantra touring gls has headlights that are angled too low. The low beams project toward the ground and its especially bad on hills, making it difficult to see more than 50 feet in front of you. The high beams are misaligned as well, the passenger side higher than the driver side. When the original owner went to the dealer after purchasing, they said they could not further adjust the angle. I find this hard to believe, but she drove it for 6 years like this.
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Installed a HID conversion kit last night and I was wondering how to adjust the headlights. I did use the adjustment knob on the back of the light unit but that only goes up and down. How about left and right?
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For some reason, the search button isn't working. Anyhow though, I am wondering if there is a way to adjust the high beams on the Sonata? I know how to adjust the low beams but am at a loss regarding the high beams---the owner's manual only tells about how to adjust the low beams.
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How do you adjust the low beam headlights for a 06 Passat? I have found the vertical adjustment now I'm trying to find the horizontal adjustment. For some reason the lights are aimed way out to either the left or the right. Has been like this since I bought the car. Had the car a month, only 42,000 and it's already been in the shop 3 times. Everything from ignition coil, to steering column and comfort control module.
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I can't seem to get the headlights to adjust vertically on my 2006 GS430... I was able to do the horizontal and high beam adjustments done fine. It's just that when I try to adjust the vertical it does nothing... there's that gauge with the two bubble containers that you look at. When i look through the small window at it and screw the adjustment, all it does is move that little tube with the bubble either forward or backward. The bubble doesn't move. It seems to be stuck on the end where the front of the car is. The whole thing just moves!!! when i screw it clockwise, it will move the tube to the left and when i screw it counterclockwise it will move it to the right. I can move it all the way to the left or all the way to the right but the bubble just will not move.
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Recently my Elantra ac will not adjust and only blows super cold air, so I have to alternate between turning it off and on constantly. Now I discovered the heater will only blow cold air. What are the possible causes?
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My pax headlight on my '09 Sonata is significantly shooting left compared to what it was, how to adjust them horizontally? I know how to do vertical but can't find anything for left and right adjustments.
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For the life of me, I can't figure out how to adjust the shoulder height of the seatbelt on my 06 Treg . The drawings in the owners manual don't look anything like the real thing.
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I can't adjust my exterior rear view mirrors with the control button. I tried looking up the fuse in the Owner's Manual and didn't see the one it could be? I checked 51 and 55. Which one it is? Or what else the issue could be? (I am not trying to do this while the car is moving)(2006 Avalon Limited)
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So I swapped out the PCV valve while changing the oil in my '02 civic and upon driving I noticed a faint rattling/buzzing sound. I only notice it at idle, whether because it goes away when I accelerate or because engine noise drowns it out. I grabbed my stethoscope and to my dismay found it to be the PCV. It's not loud, but loud enough that I noticed it was out of the ordinary.
Now, I've read conflicting things all over the internet. Some people saying its perfectly normal operation, while others saying its a sign of a defective product. The old PCV was pretty gnarly, but did just barely passed the shake test.
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I'm replacing the valve cover gasket on my 94 Honda Accord. I've heard all sorts of crazy opinions on what needs to be done while installing the gasket such as using various sealants or lubricants. Should anything be put on the gasket or should I just drop it in and screw the valve cover back on?
I'm also replacing the spark plugs while I'm at it. Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there?
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I picked up a golf mk4 with low miles on it and have been working out the bugs - so far I changed out the dreaded power steering rack starter crank position sensor - dam theses cars are tough to work on but I actually enjoy it and could not have been successful without vwvortexx guiding me through- got a ton of suspension parts waiting for me to put in but I have this problem that's dogging me - searched like crazy couldn't find anything ...
When I adjust the steering column the engine "skips" and when I push the wheel in and out (as opposed to up and down) I can actually get the engine to cut out completely. (I should also mention that according to dealership receipts the PRNDL switch has been replaced along with repairs of wiring harness)...
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey with a little less than 50,000 miles on it. I love my car!! It is so comfortable and so durable. But.. lately if I have been driving at a high rate of speed, such as on the highway,for an extended period of time (at least 20 minutes) when I slow down or come to a stop it sounds like a quiet fire engine siren. I can't think of any other way to describe. Of course, I took it to my Honda service center and they couldn't replicate the sound. I even took the service person for a ride, but we didn't go far enough for it to happen. They said they gave it a thorough once over, but it is still happening. I don't want to take it back to them until I have something to guide them in the right direction. I love my Honda and I really want it to last me a very long time.
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My wife's 2006 Honda Accord makes a strange noise when accelerating. The best I can describe it is that it sounds like Woooo. It does not make this sound when driven at a constant speed. The car is in great shape and does not appear to have any mechanical or electrical problems.
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I have been experiencing a vibration in my car at highway speeds (50mph+). Vibration is only present when the engine is under load, IE, i am accelerating, maintaining highway speed, or climbing a hill. Vibration is not present if I put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Vibration initially seemed to come from the rear, but it now is present over the entire car, steering wheel, pedals, seats, dash, etc... The vibration is getting progressively worst and appears at lower speeds than when first noticed at 70k. Taken to the dealer then, did a wheel balance and alignment didn't fix the problem, unable to diagnose and said bring it back when it's worst (about 200$).
Now at 92k and running out of my 100k warranty. Taken back to the dealership, they told me to change catalytic converter (not under warranty) (75$diagnosis fee) and O2 censor (for 1000$), so I had a reputable mechanic in town do that (420$), problem still there. I took it back to the dealership, they said my cyl2 has a misfire, and to change plugs... so i had them do that (120$, 10%off, waived the diagnosis fee), of course... problem still there. They then suggested it was my snow tires, I replied it has been through 4 sets of tires (two snows, two summers, and all the alignments, balances, rotations associated with that)... problem still there... (and if it was tiring, it would vibrate at speed all the time, not just when you are giving the engine gas)...
I am bringing the car back to them this week, they are going to put a set of their tires on the car and see if it may be a wheel bearing... again, this does not seem right to me... if it's a bearing, wouldn't that be a condition present all the time, and even (or progressively worst) through speeds...
they told me they have checked the struts (my first guess) and they look OK, as well as the engine mounts (my second guess) look OK.
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