Honda - Cr-v :: 2006 - Sporadic Rumble When Hit 40 MPH And 1500 RPM
Apr 3, 2012
When I am driving my 2006 Honda CRV, occasionally and sporadically when I hit 40MPH and 1500 RPM, I experience a rumble that everyone in the car can hear and feel. It is like driving over a rumble strip. As I speed up, it stops. It happens in all weather, months of the year, time of day, different drivers. I have taken it to Honda dealership and of course it doesn't happen while I am driving the mechanic around. They say they can't diagnose it until they hear it. Well of course, as soon as I drive home it does it. I asked them to check the transmission and their response is that unless it does it all the time it it not the transmission and besides they do not work on transmissions, they simply replace them if they are defective. Do I keep driving until something major happens? How can I approach this problem? What else could be causing this?
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My wife drives a 2006 Honda Civic. She just drove back from Vermont - we live near Boston - and on her way back the idle was unusually rough and twice she said it felt as if she was driving over rumble strips, even though she was on smooth pavement. The first time she was going 40 and the second time she was barely moving. She also noted that once, at a stop sign, the car wouldn't slowly move forward when she took her foot off the brake, as it usually does. She had to give it gas. The thing is, the problem is very intermittent.
She says the only thing that is constant is the rough idle, but the engine check light is NOT on.
The last work that was done on the car, about a month ago, was the replacement of the calipers and shoes on one of the brakes. My wife had driven for some time with the squealing noise that indicates you need to change your brake shoes without telling anyone about it. She used the radio fix.
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My truck just recently started to vibrate like it is going over rumble strips. It only happens over 40MPH and sporadically. It seems to happen when I'm just giving enough gas to maintain speed. Once it starts if I let off the gas or give it more gas it goes away. It reoccurs anywhere from 20 seconds up to a few minutes. I'm afraid my tire is going to fly off or my drive shaft is going to drop. There is no unusual noises or thuds if I go on and off the gas and the universal joints seem tight, and there is no vibrations from on steering wheel.
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Very weird thing happened on the way home from work. When I left work (not to full temp) at about 1500 rpm and 30 mph (had to be at 30mph--seemed to be the key) the whole truck felt like it was rolling across rumple strips (the ones one the shoulder of the road) all vitals were normal and it was gone once on the interstate and up to temp (I did gon on it to blow out anything that may have needed to be) it felt more like drive line but honestly can't say. 2006 F350 4X4 ....
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A few years ago, my 2010 Elantra started sporadic chiming when I opened the driver's door. Dealers explanation was that there is a microswitch (sensor) that detects if a key is in the ignition switch. Seems that the switch/sensor thought the key was still in the ignition and when the door was opened, it chimed to remind you that the key hadn't been removed.
Well, the dealer replaced the microswitch, and after a month or so, the problem returned. They lubed the switch, and once again the problem eventually returned. This happened several times. I eventually learned to tap the steering column, which vibrates the switch/sensor and the chiming stops. The dealer said that if a fix were to become known, they would fix it for me, for free.
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I have a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T 6spd and it has the electronic rear parking brake with auto-hold. Recently needed rear brake pads, but hadnt had the 3 updates for the system, so i could not retract the e-brake through the computer. Got the update done, got the car back with two codes that i cannot get cleared:
53 - Parking Brake
02433: Supply voltage for right parking brake motor (sporadic) - V283
01087: Basic setting not carried out (sporadic)
Every time the codes are cleared, they come back immediately, therefore the scanner will not allow me to operate the system and do the brake job. I am using the Launch x-431 scanner with a vag-com emulator, so there should be no equipment problems if there is anything i can do. Is there an adaptation or relearn that needs to be carried out for the caliper?
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I just bought a used 2003 Pilot with 62,000 miles. I quickly noticed a that I hear a faint rumble sound that lasts about 2 seconds at speeds between 30 and 40. It sounds like I ran over a very short and shallow rumble strip. It can happen very quickly as I slowly accelerate. It only happens once, but not every time that I slowly accelerate. It also happen as I am coasting at these speeds. I took it back to the dealer, but they are puzzled. They thought I was crazy until I took them on a test drive and we eventually heard it. They tried adjusting the sway bar, but the sound continues.
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My 1990 Honda Accord just recently started sputtering and shaking a bit when I reach 1500 rpms, if I'm under that she's fine and if I accelerate passed that she is fine.
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Like the title says. All of a sudden when I put the car in reverse I got a rumble and the car vibrates some.
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I have a weird problem with my 2008 Elantra GLS 86K Miles on it. I did a couple of searches on this problem but didn't find any threads. About a month ago I noticed that when I braked hard at highway speeds 65 to 70 Mph I would get a noise that sounded like I was driving over the rumble strips on the side of the road. The rumble was the same frequency no matter what speed you are going, it doesn't get faster or slower. The problem slowly got worse to the point that it would happen at 25 to 30 Mph. The noise sounds like it is coming from the front but I can't tell which side. I figured that it was probably rotors and time for a brake overhaul so I replaced the rotors, pads and hardware on the front and the back. I used synthetic brake grease on the slides and guides. I also replaced the brake fluid with synthetic DOT 3.
When I did the back brakes I found that the wheel bearing on the passenger side was leaking lots of grease so I replaced it with a Timken bearing. (I live over an hour away from the nearest dealer so I did the repairs myself.) While I was working on the bearing I pushed the rear shock up and out of the way and it stayed in the up position for quite a while, aren't the shocks under pressure and usually push right back down? (Just an off subject thought) Well after replacing the bearing the rumble strip noise went back to just happening at speeds from 45 Mph and up. I was also thinking of pulling the fuse on the ABS and seeing if the problem goes away but will pulling the fuse hurt the car in any way or trip a code? I know what the ABS sounds like and this is not the same noise you get when sliding on ice.
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I have a mint condition 2008 Accent with only 34K miles. Never had major problems, keep oil changed. Back in summer I noticed a low-pitch noise resonating from the engine or exhaust, and the car seemed to shake a little more (idle at full operating temp is stable @ about 750). It was right after a 600-mile round trip to NYC and back...unfortunately we sat in traffic for three hours waiting to cross the GW bridge with the car and A/C running (it was very hot).
After returning home is when I first noticed noise and vibration difference with or without A/C when slowing down at light or at stopped at idle. I replaced plugs with Bausch--no change. I replaced again last month with EGK--no change. Last week I found #1 cylinder coil corroded and wet from engine degreaser that leaked into the valve cover, which was causing #1 misfire. I replaced coil and engine seemed fine for first day, but now back to original low rumble sound and minor vibration. Dealer checked it out and couldn't duplicate or find anything. New tires and all new belts--no change before or after. No engine light.
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!995 honda accord, 5 speed. Idle is fine until the engine warms up, then fluctuates between 1500 to 2500 rpms. The idle control valve was cleaned- no change. Valve was also replaced -also with no change. Put old valve back on. Computer was disconnected after cleaning and also after each valve change.Would the next step be to remove and clean the fast idle thermo sensor? Also how do you check the coolant lines coming in. Anything else I would need to check, clean or replace.
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I recently bought a 2006 Jetta with 31,000 from a used imported cars salesman. I've had it for 5 or 6 months and have put on 4,000 miles since I've gotten it. Sometimes it won't start for 2 or 3 days, it wil rumble the engine for 5 to 10 seconds then shut off. Then it will randomly start working fine for a day or two, and repeat itself.
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My 2008 Accent started to stutter between 1500 and 2500 rpms. Now the check engine light has come on, and the engine is idling rough.
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My 2006 Sonata GLS headlights dim along with the entire lighting electrical system when my car slows down past 1500 RPM. Why??? I had the car worked on 2 weeks after i got it because of this and they replaced a timing chain thinking this was the problem, but it wasn't.
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I have a 2006 Chevy 1500 Silverado. The driver side front tire is making a grinding and clunking noise. It started yesterday afternoon and has gotten worse. When making a left turn there is a grinding/rubbing noise. When I go over a bump,rough gravel, or pot hole a horrible clunking comes from this tire. I haven't taken to a repair shop yet.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Solara with 195k miles, and it frequently gives off a hot oil smell as though oil or trans fluid is on a hot surface, but I cannot find any such thing through a visual inspection. About the time this started, the check engine light came on and stayed on until I replaced the upstream O2 sensor.I had hoped there was some connection, but the sporadic smell has continued, so apparently not. Is there some other explanation, or should I keep looking for a leak somewhere on the outside of the engine?
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I recently (about 2 months ago) purchased a '04 Prius with 122k miles on it and it now had 124k. The only problem that it seems to have it a sporadic P0420 cel that come on and off every once in a while (even while on the same tank of gas); I always make sure the gas cap is on tight. On my last fill-up I got about 50mpg, so nothing seems out of the ordinary.
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2003 Prius - 213 K miles on it.
Problem: Sporadic heat this winter and sporadic a/c in last summer. (Freezing to death)
I've taken it to two mechanics and they both stated that it is a electrical issue and the a/c clutch was check and it was good. It does have code 22. Where the A/C relays and the Heater relays are?
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About two weeks ago I noticed that my parking brake light was not illuminating when I enagaged the brake. Since then it sometimes comes on when I engage the brake but not always (most of the time it doesn't). I can't replicate the conditions and there doesn't appear to be a pattern of temp or time of day.It is an '04 with 146,000 miles.
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2002 VW Cabrio @80K miles no major repairs 1 1/2 years ago the car died while in motion - as if the ignition switch was turned off. While "dead in the water" I tried several things, cleaning battery cables (although horn & lights were strong), letting it cool, & jumper cables to no avail. It was towed to a local garage (who have been pretty good in the past) & the starter was replaced (they were puzzeled too, but that worked!!??). Fine for many months. Then another cutoff while in motion (30-40 mph). This time it started about 15 minutes later on its own. I drove it home & turned it off. When I went to move it into the garage it wouldn't start. After pushing it into the garage once again, cables were checked, the battery charged (again horn & lights were strong, but what the heck), checked all fuses, & looked for anything possibly suspicious. No luck.
In desperation I replaced the starter again (I know, it was probably just superstition at this point) & while at it cleaned every wiring connection I could find under the hood. It worked. The car started and ran fine, but I took it back to the original shop to see if they could find anything else - to avoid mid roadway flame outs! Understandably they were skeptical of finding the problem while it was still working. They ran it, drove, checked it, for several days & it did just fine. When I went to retrieve it wouldn't start!! Now they had it while in cardiac arrest, but before anything was diagnosed it came back to life on its own. It has been running fine for many months more.
It did it again today!! This time the 15 minute wait worked & it is back in our garage and as you can imagine my wife is not crazy about driving it again. Just some side notes: - When dead, all of the electrical system is out EXCEPT the ignition circuit - not even a click from the solinoid. - Previous to these "attacks" my wife has noticed some odd electrical occurences a day or two before, but not enough to disable the car. (dash lights flickering, acceleration stumble on takeoff, the radio going to safe mode when the power was never disconnected) - The only vague possible electrical anomoly is the installation of a Sirius radio receiver under the dash to the cigarette lighter. I haven't clue at this point.
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