Honda - Cr-v :: 2005 - Loose Sway Bar Links
Mar 6, 2012
The Honda dealership told me my 2005 CRV has loose sway bar links. How are these fixed? They quoted a price of $290 for the front links and $374 for the rear links. Does this sound reasonable.
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I want to change the front sway bar links on a 2005 Camry that has been driven in central New York (ice, salt, corrosion) for 10 years. There is definite wiggle and noise. I recently replaced the ball joints. That was difficult. How difficult is it to remove the sway bar links? Looks like a 5MM or so allen wrench is supposed to hold the ball joint type link to allow 18MM nut to be removed. A 5MM allen wrench is about 4 inches long and skinny. An 18MM wrench is about 12 inches long and beefy. I am skeptical about breaking the nut loose.
Will I need to heat the nut? If yes, how? With a simple propane torch? If yes, how does that work? Apply heat and wait for a sound that indicates the rust has broken? Apply heat for a time, try to hold with the allen wrench and try to undo the nut? Keep trying that again and again until it works? This would be after multiple rust busting spraying to make this easier. I used a 4 inch grinder to grind the nuts off the ball joints to remove them (I know how that sounds, but that is what I did). Thoughts about that for the sway bar links? I am a bolt turner who can stand some aggravation.
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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Both of my front sway bar links have a bad joint and are making a bad noise.. I purchased the replacements and tried to loosen the nuts with no success. I put some oil to loosen them and will let them set over night. Next attempt will include a breaker bar.
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
If I replace the rear sway bar end links, do I need to get an alignment? (I just got an alignment 2 days ago). Here is a DIY on replacing the rear sway bar end links: [URL]
The top attaches to the strut.....what is the bar the other end attaches to?
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I just installed rear sway bar & links, this made a world of difference in the way the car handles as soon as I made the first turn I could feel the difference in the car it definitely corners flatter, the install only took about an hour did it in the driveway on ramps, I installed the kia sway bar 555102T000 the bar is 18.3 mm while the stock one is only 15mm I included some pics...
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My mechanic says I need to replace both front sway bar links on my 2002 Jetta....I am, of course, hesitant to do it at this price. How critical is it to replace? Can I get junk yard sway bars to make it cheaper? And can I do it myself (have no experience fixing anything....
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I've been having the loud clunk under the drivers side floor, that many others have as well. Did many hours of research and replaced the sway bar end links. Napa only had the left side in stock so I did it first last weekend and did the right side this weekend. One thing I noticed when doing the right side was the hole in the frame was all wallowed out. Drilled out the bushing in the upper end link and used a bigger bolt to fill the gap up. went for a drive and the clunk was way worse than it ever was still on the left side. So I took off the left one and went for a drive. Sure enough no clunk, the left one was wallowed out as well. So I did the same thing on that side and the evil clunk is finally gone. Just thought I would throw that out that if have a clunk after replacing the end links, Check the upper holes.
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I plan on replacing as I have a clunk happening. Thought I'd try here first.
Is there a brand that's better? 1Aauto has OEM. Is there a brand that's better or makes a difference?
Or is a front sway bar end link a front sway bar end link?
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What is the correct length of the front sway bar end links. I need that info to order replacements for my 04 X EB 6.0 4x4. I just don't want to wait another day.
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I'm new to the whole Ranger truck thing since buying a 1993 Ranger 4x4 for my 14 y/o son. It has a 4 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift running 33x10.5x15 tires. The front sway bar is not hooked up. I know that i will need drop brackets for the sway bar but my question is about the end links needed for this truck. There are 2 tabs with provisions for a horizontal bolt on each side of the twin I-beam where the end link would attach and the sway bar has a single horizontal hole on each end. Searching for replacement links at various auto parts websites only seems to yield the standard end links that consist of a straight bolt with a nut on each end and the rubber insulators. That clearly is not the correct end link for my application. Not sure if the front suspension is the factory installed unit or if it was swapped some time in the part.
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One is coming apart, so I'm gonna replace the pair. My Chilton book says to jack the front end up. The part instruction sheet makes no mention of doing that.
Raising the front would allow the control arms to hang. That would seem to me to make it harder to deal with the links.
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So putting the new extended links on my truck, not sure if they are supposed to be seated flush on both the frame and sway bar itself before tightening them down. This is how they are sitting now --
You can see a little gap between the rubber fitting where the bushing sits and the frame mount. Just wanted to make sure before I torque it down. Its the same on the other side as well. They are sitting flush on the sway bar.
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I have a 2002 F350 4x4 CC 7.3 i am wanting to change the sway bar bushings front and rear to poly and I want greasable bushings to avoid the squeaking that you get with these bushings alot of the time. I would like to change the end links to poly too i realize these wont be greaseable. What was the outcome and where did you buy the bushings. What is the size of the front and rear sway bars and the length of the end links??
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I'm on my second set of links. The replacement were Dorman 3 years ago. They are rattling again. Do I just replace them again? I forgot to add, the bushings were replaced this year.
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My 04 6.0 Limited and both front and rear sway bars. The front links keep wearing out after 3-4000 miles. But, I saw someone in here put F350 Sway Bars in their Excursion? REALLY?? Is this right or is this snake oil? Is their another way to fix the front links so they don't wear out so quickly??
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My car suddenly looses power without any warning. I have taken it to the Honda dealer on a few occasions. There was a recall on the ignition chamber a few years back it happened again a few times after. Took it back they replaced the ignition chamber again about 8 months ago or so, and just today died again. They have done diagnostic on the car and cant find anything wrong. Its so scary because all of a sudden just shuts down. The radio stays on, the door lights show that they are open the steering wheel locks so I cant even pull over to the side of the road. Just stops dead. It seems that most of times that this has happened has been while driving at a pretty low speed( I don't know if that has anything to do with it)? MY car is a 2001 Honda Accord Ex with 80k miles
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Honda Civic 2008. Daughter sends att'd photo of passenger side, lower portion. (I will not see the real thing until Wednesday evening.) Does this need fixed, or can we just snip it off? (I can hope, can't I?). Who fixes it, glass shop or body shop? Is this a typical failure, or should we be concerned about vandalism or other malice? (What could they have been trying to get at? But the sharp bends look unnatural.)
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My 2004 honda civic hybrid has 8 spark plugs. The ones in the back of the motor look like they get much hotter and both times I have replaced them, all four in the back were really really loose.
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I just took my car in to have my tires balanced and rotated, and the tire place said my front left wheel bearing is coming loose. The guy said it isn't dangerous, and that I'll eventually hear a rumbling sound. I'm wondering if this is a fair price for the repair, and how soon I need to take care of this. Also, at some point I'm going to need to have my front rotors turned/replaced, but my brother said I don't need brake pads yet. Since I'm fairly clueless about this stuff, I'm wondering if I should deal with the rotors at the same time as the wheel bearing, or wait until the brake pads need to be replaced.
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I drive a 96 honda accord and my dad just got a 2003 VW golf and when i drive it it feels weird. When i hit the gas on my accord its solid and hard but when i hit the gas on the VW golf it feels loose i can hit the bottom of the car in the gas and it wont make any reaction.
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