Honda - Cr-v :: 2005 - Electric Door Lock Failure
Jul 13, 2013
All of my electric door locks failed over the last 3 months. Rear doors first, then passenger front, then, Drivers front and tailgate. All work manually. What would cause this type of cascading failure? Honda dealer said all actuators must be replaced. Another mechanic said the front drivers side controls all doors and that unit must be replace.
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Car: 2014 Prius, basic model
Symptom: Only rear left electric window and electric lock are not working. They are not responding to driver side control or remote key control. Electronics on other 3 doors function normally.
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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I have search youtube and only found front door lock replacement but not the rear..
How do you go about removing the bad rear passenger side door lock actuator ??
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My friend's 2012 Elantra's driver's door lock has started acting up intermittently. Sometimes the door locks, sometimes it doesn't. It won't do it on command so it can't be taken to the dealer to be looked at. Has this problem been cropping up on the 2012 models? He has had it for almost 2 years and has about 22000 miles.
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I was having intermittent problems with my key fob. I replaced several times, but still had problems with it not working. (A real joy when the alarm is armed). Recently, the driver's door switch (lock/unlock) failed completely. All of a sudden, the key fob is working perfectly (so far) again. Could the failing switch have been causing the fob malfunction all along? I'd like to use the fob, but I'm not fond of the part where the car is alarmed and it won't disengage.
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Lock/unlock button on door handle failed? Over the past couple of weeks mine has iced up a couple of times. I'm pretty sure water is getting behind the button and freezing. Now it seems like the button only works intermittently, and it definitely has a spongy feel to it when you press it. Off to the dealer I guess. Though if it's because of ice it's probably going to fail every year.....
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I have a 2009 Camry Hybrid. Both driver side door locks work/fail intermittently. This sometimes does/doesn't happen when i use the inside door panel button, outside door button, outside hand sensor when i grab the door latch, remote control buttons, gear shift . . . etc. I see the driver side locks open/close or not move while I see the passenger side doors lock/unlock correctly.
For some reason, it seems to be a bit better when the weather gets warmer around hear in the northeast. I thought it might have something to do with the integration relay. But I'm not exactly sure where it is. I looked under the dashboard, too many wires!. On the drivers side I have located the fuse box, unplugged most of the wires, plugged them back in and it seemed to work only for a day or two, but the temperature also warmed up on those days.
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Strangely today my drivers side rear power door lock stopped working. Very annoying, can't unlock it electronically, and if its unlocked the rest of the car won't lock and the headlights won't go off.
I have to put it in anyways for the airbag seat rail TSB, but I was going to wait until my 40k service was due. This is too annoying to wait on since I put my briefcase and hang up my suit jacket in that seat...
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I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
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Lock seems to be stuck. I have to use the key. Other doors unlock with the remote once I have opened driver door with key. It is a 1998 Honda CRV with 103,692 miles in good shape. This problem may occur on all types of cars. Can it be repaired...
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I have a 2000 Honda CRV, driver side door lock actuator has failed. Door is shut and will not open. I have pulled back the door panel enough to see the actuator and touch it. How can I get the door open to replace the actuator?
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I have a 2door 1992 Honda Accord EXR. In order to lock the car, you need to close the driver door and use the key to lock - annoying as hell but apparently the only way.
It recently got very cold and I can't seem to lock my driver's side door from the outside with my key. I tried squirting in door lock de-icer but to no avail. The key does not turn on the outside although once inside I can lock it from inside with the door lock switch.
Passenger side locks but it does not lock the driver's door.
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2003 Accord EX, about 145K miles. About a year ago, the back passenger side door would not lock. So now I just keep it locked and if I ever need it open, I reach back to unlock it. About 6 months ago, the front passenger side door stopped responding to a lock command. But the funny thing was, when it started to show signs of weakness, I could press lock (on driver side door or remote) about 5 or 6 times and it would eventually make its way down or up. Eventually, it just stopped working altogether. So now I have 2 out of 4 doors that lock and unlock remotely or by the master unlock/lock button on the driver's side. I have found NO other issues with the car that would seem related to this. The AC has stopped blowing cold air but it did this last summer too (and fixed itself) so I think that is unrelated. I am happy, willing, and able to do any minor fixes myself on the car.
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I have 2004 Honda Civic LX 4Door. Here are the issues with it.
-When I use remote controller to lock, it locks up the both front door, but not the back doors. When I unlock with remote, it unlocks both front and driver side back door, but passenger side back door.
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is open, it locks up only the passenger side front door
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is closed, it locks up the both front doors, but not the back doors.
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I have a 2010 Prius with about 51,000 miles on it. About a month ago the front passenger lock actuator began failing and wouldn't lock/unlock with the remote. I had to manually slide the lock shut before I exited the car or it would keep beeping when I pressed the lock button on the remote.
Well, now the driver's side door is doing the same thing. When I touch the front door handle (to unlock the doors) it beeps like 8 times while it tries to unlock all four doors. I have to open the back drivers-side door and manually unlock the front door so I can drive the car.
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Looks like I've got the classic electric steering column failure. It still works in and out but won't go up or down. I think it won't go up as the column is at the top of it's travel. I can hear a click from within the column when I press the up button but nothing when I press down. So I've done a quick search but I can't find the post which shows the replacement of the wiring. It's probably me being stupid and it's starring me in the face. Also I've got no warning come up on the dash is this a good thing? I haven't plugged the VCDS in yet I'm not expecting it to show anything.
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The truck is a 1997 chevy silverado 3/4 ton. Newer battery.Pulled away from curb a few nights ago and it died electrically-so power-no lights -no engine-zip-Jumped it -ran fine another 10 feet then completely dead electrically. Battery shows 13 volts-jumped it again and parked it - when it died I could here a faint electrical noise but no lights or power of any short.
Next day towed to dealer who cannot reproduce the failure after starting it many times and a test drive.I'm thinking new battery cables and cleaning the grounds. I have zero faith in this thing now and I need to haul 10 tons in two weeks with it. It was a complete electrical shut down twice in a row- Never made it 30 feet. If it was alternator the battery would have kept the cap light going-battery is fine -6 month old interstate. I need to track down.
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Electric power steering failing when starting the car and driving right away without warming it up?
My 2009 ISF has recently started doing this occasionally. It was when I started the car for the first time of the day, and pulled away within 10 seconds or so. When I let it "warm up" for a minute I have not had it happen.
But the thing is, I've had the car for a few months and have never had this happen until now. My mechanic plugged it in to the computer and there are no codes up, or in the history.
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2007 XLS with Nav. The driver side door lock won't automatically lock. It still unlocks fine but it will not lock via the remote or when I put the car in gear.
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Just curious if this has been an issue for Avalons. My driver side rear door lock has not been functioning whether it be with the FOB or using the power door lock button. Requires manually locking/unlocking. How to determine the cause?
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