Honda - Cr-v :: 2004 - CEL Came On Again
Jun 1, 2012
I own a 2004 Honda CRV-Ex. I bought it new and it now has 308,000 miles. I have a 60 mile commute each direction.Background:Earlier this year I had the timing chain replaced at the Honda dealer. The check engine light goes on and off but it recently passed inspection in April. I had a cracked crank shaft seal and this produced a big oil leak, which caused me to have to check the oil and add oil quite frequently. But, I got it fixed in April, so there is no leak now.Problem:3 weeks ago I was driving on the Taconic SP and when I tried to accelerate up a hill it started to buck. The same thing happened to me a long time ago when I let the oil get too low, so I thought that was the problem. (Honda explained that it is a built-in feature to prevent one from burning up the engine.) I pulled over, checked the oil and sure enough, it was too low. I went overboard and added 2 quarts of oil. I thought that would solve the problem. Nope. It continued to buck and chug, especially on uphill and acceleration.
After that weekend I took it to a local mechanic. He thought an oil flush and change would fix it, but he said I had a “sh…load of codes” with the check engine light. After the oil change I drove about 40 miles and it did it again. I pulled over, waited a bit and continued my commute. It was fine until I had to slow down and try to accelerate again.So, I brought it to my regular mechanic. He added thicker oil. He changed the cooling fan and a selonoid, checked the codes and $700 later, it still had the same problem. I brought it back and he changed the catalytic converter and it still did the same thing after about 20 miles.I brought it back and he put back my old catalytic converter so I wouldn’t have to pay for a new one.Now he thinks it may be some oxygen sensor. I am supposed to bring it back to him and leave it for 2 days next week.
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2004 Honda CRV-Manual. Just had rebuild trany installed--all good. Lately will turn key and nothing happens--try a few more times and then it starts fine. Battery is in good shape (not tested but only 2 yrs old), no corrosion, cables tight. Dash lights seem fine. Would like to diagnose this and possibly repair myself as the rebuilt trany set me back $2200.
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when I try to start my car after it's been parked for several days, it won't start on the first few tries. On the first try, it sounds like the battery is dead - it barely turns over. The gas gauge also indicates below empty (and the low fuel light is on), even though the tank is nearly full. On the 2nd (and, sometimes, 3rd or 4th) try it turns over a little more, but still won't start). Finally, it turns over and over for a while before finally "catching" and starting (I'm guessing because of the lack of fuel in the system?). After a few seconds of rough idling, suddenly the gas gauge will jump up to show the correct level and the idle speed will increase; sometimes I can hear and feel a thump at this point.
I'm guessing this is a problem with the anti-theft immobilizer system? Even before the issue with the battery barely turning over started, I ran into the fuel gauge problem a couple times, and in both these cases the anti-theft immobilizer light stayed on throughout my drive (even though I was using a correctly coded key, and the gas eventually kicked in). I now wait a few seconds after I insert the key to make sure the light goes off before trying to start the car, and even switched to my spare key in case it was a problem with the coding on the key I was using, but I'm still having the problem. But again, only when the car has sat for a day or more - once I get it started the first time, it will start right up for the rest of the day.
Am I correct in ruling out problems with the battery, alternator, or starter? Usually when the battery's nearly dead it gets weaker on subsequent tries, not stronger. Is this something I need to take to the dealer, or can I go to a regular mechanic?
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My CR-V stalled out the other day 3 times. Then would not stay running. Now won't run at all. We have changed the Camshaft position sensors, spark plugs and air flow control valve. It has fuel pressure, spark, compression tests good and timing chains good. Running out of things to check.
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The "D" on my 2004 Honda Element has been flashing lately. It has been happening occasionally for the past couple of days. Most of the time when I notice it, I stop, restart the car, and then it stops flashing. The flashing also continues even when it's in park or reverse. Most people on other forums say that it is a transmission issue so what specific transmission issue it is most likely.
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The AC in our 2004 Honda CRV works fine as long as it's only turned up about halfway. When we turn it up higher than that (and we're on the highway) the cold goes away and we start getting only the fan. On a hot summer day in South Texas, it's VERY obvious when this happens. The Honda dealership here says that we need to replace the "Heater Control Panel".
I asked how they knew that was the problem and they said that they hook it up to something and go step by step checking the system until they get to the problem ... Our heater works fine and the AC actually works fine, as long as the fan is only half-way on. So I'm wondering if there might just be some relay switch or something that needs to be replaced, instead of the whole Heater Control Panel.
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I have a 2004 Honda Element with 115,000 miles. The transmission is going. Is it worth it to put another transmission in it? How long does a rebuilt transmission last?
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2004 Honda Accord sedan, 4 cylinder, approx, 95,000 miles, uses oil rapidly at highway speeds (one quart in 90 minutes), in town driving will not use any oil over 3 to 4 months of monitoring. What the problem is and how to fix it?
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord 4 cyl that just had spark plugs changed and battery posts cleaned but is acting like it doesn't want to start. Today it stalled 2x when I tried to start it and on 3rd attempts turned over. I put some fuel enhancer (from NAPA) in w/ premium gas, but usually don't get premium. I live on dirt road so it might cause problems. Honestly, I don't know a whole lot about cars but love my accord and want to fix it myself, if possible. What I should do or look into fixing?
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It drove fine for about 3 weeks, and then one day when I went to start the car, it acted like the battery was going bad. This didn't make any sense to me, because the battery had just been replaced a few months before I bought it. It was a weekend, and the car seemed fine otherwise, so I figured I'd just take it to a mechanic on Monday.The next day I drove it to the grocery store, and when I went to start it nothing happened. The electronics came on, but it wouldn't start. No cranking, no clicking, nothing. I finally got it to start by pumping the gas while turning the key. However, even after I got it to start, everything electronic in the car would shut off and then come back on again randomly, and the car would try to stall out every time I came to a stop if the electricity happened to be off. After getting it home, I couldn't get it to start again at all. I didn't sell my trusty old '97 Toyota Tercel. I have driven it across the country and back four times, it has 281,000 miles on it, and it has never given me any problems. That's what I've been driving since all of this started.
And I got the Civic to replace the Tercel. Now I'm thinking I might just get rid of the new car and keep the old one! Haha!I couldn't afford to have the Civic towed to a mechanic, so I had my mechanic friend come and look at it several weeks later. The first thing he thought it could be was the battery, so we went and had the battery tested. Sure enough, the battery was bad, so we took it to wal-mart (where the battery came from) and they replaced it with a new one.Fast forward to three weeks later: all of a sudden I'm having the same problem I had before. Slow to start this morning, and then this afternoon I'm driving down the highway and BOOM everything electronic SHUTS OFF, all gauges drop down to zero, and I feel the car lose a little power. It still drove because it was running on the alternator, but the electronics kept shutting off and coming back on again. It got to a point where about every other second it would blink on and then off again. When I got the car home, I shut it off, switched cars and continued about my business (all of this happened while I was taking a car full of kids to their parents). When I went to start the Civic after getting home, all of the lights came on but the car would not start.I don't know what to do.
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One morning after parking and turning the car off, I tried to restart and it just made a sad attempt. A few minutes later it started, but still seemed to take too long. I took it to the dealer and they said the Alternator needed to be replaced, so they replaced it with a rebuilt alternator (without asking me if i wanted rebuilt or new). Anyway.. when i picked it up it still seems to start a bit slower than normal, but they said that is typical for hondas. A couple of weeks later, I picked up my car from the airport after it sat there for 2 nights. It started slowly but surely. I stopped at store, and then it would not start at all. Barely made any sound at all. no cranking... So i had to have it jump started by a tow truck service.I took it back to Honda and they said everything check out ok, and cannot find any issue.I am afraid to get stranded again. Do I need to buy a new car? This one only has 70k miles !
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My 2004 Honda Odyssey shakes when I am pressing on the gas and going 22 to 25 miles per hour and also around 45 miles per hour. It shops once I pass those speeds. could it my the Torque converter?
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Had battery replaced by shop. No power to radio at all. Power door locks don't work unless key is in run position, remote doesn't work at all. Dome light works only when key is on. The radio fuse is good.
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I have a 2004 Civic Hybrid with 120,000 miles. It's been lurching when I step on the gas. I took it to a mechanic who said all 4 motor mounts were 'broken' and they replaced them. The car is still in the shop and they are saying that the lurching is not fixed. They say there is a problem with the transmission but they don't do transmissions. Should I tell them to put the old motor mounts back on? Is it safe to drive with broken motor mounts or a transmission that is causing the car to lurch?
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic. I just drove the car to Texas this weekend, 1800+ miles. On the way home it started to overheat if I was going slow, 45MPH or less. I pulled over, shut it off for about 2 minutes, started it up, the guage read about normal. I drove for a little while and it worked fine. Awhile later it started doing it again. I turned off the A/c and let the engine build up temp. At about the normal reading, both the fans on the radiator started cycling (I think one is the A/c cooling fan, and the other is the radiator cooling fan). So, both fans are at least working. I checked the fuses, they all looked good, and the fan relay worked as well ( I switched it with the horn relay, and they both seemed to work the same). What should I check next? Does it sound like a thermostat issue, or a temp sensor, or the fan switch? And how could I troubleshoot this further?
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Yesterday I had to replace two right side engine mounts on my 2WD 2004 Honda Element w/ 63K (most short drives in a hilly city). The mechanic saved the old parts for me and sure enough they were really torn up. The lower left side control arm also needed to be replaced and they think the Lower right control arm will need replacing in about 3-4K.
This seems to be a fairly short life for such vital items. I've owned front wheel drive cars before and hadn't had this happen. What gives ( besides the rubber)?
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More questions on OBD codes but I'm trying to understand my problem. The check engine light came on for a week and then off and then on etc.. I thought it was the gas cap or wet/loose wire on the 1st O2 sensor. Well, I went to advanced auto and they said P0141 I think (bank 1, sensor 2 after the cat convertor) and the right rear ABX wire/reader. He told me to clean the ABS sensor (it was filthy with dirt and I can see how it can't read) and I did the other rear and the front left one (it was different on the front than the back and was clean so I didn't do the right front). So, now the light is still on probably due to the O2 sensor. I intend to get a mechanic change out the sensor (denso at adv auto for 70 bucks plus labor) and reset the computer to see if the ABS sensor code comes again or it's fixed.
Why did the check engine light come on and off? I thought once on, it only goes off if it's a gas cap issue. Next, does the computer reset itself or will a mechanic have to reset it? Can the ABS switch be just dirty or do they die and it needs replacement? Why didn't the ABS light on the dash come on if the error code was for the ABS wire which will mess up the ABS system?
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Whenever my 2004 Honda Pilot gets stuck in traffic, I have to switch it into a lower gear in order to resume forward. Automatic transmission. It's a rebuilt trans that has 60K on it. Transmission fluids at right levels and recently flushed. The car mileage is 198K. I don't have the issue with normal highway and local driving. It is only when I am stuck in traffic.
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic ex coupe. I have changed the thermostat (twice), fan sensor, temp. sensor. The fan works and when doing an oil change the oil looks normal. No white smoke coming out of my exhaust and I got two radiator flushes, no dirty coolant, and I have replaced the cabin filter. The car doesn't overheat as long as I keep my temperature on hot. If I were to change the temp. to cold it seems like the coolant goes into the reservoir, but it seems like it doesn't go back into the engine. The mechanic that did the flush said that the hoses doesn't to be clogged because the coolant that was removed was green. They stuck an air blower in the heater core hoses and to show that was not clogged as well. The AC worked, I haven't checked in about couple of months. Also when the car overheats there is no smoke coming from the engine. radiator has been burped as well.
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I had a clutch replacement done on my 2004 Honda CRV EX at a local shop. The replacement was taking longer than anticipated because of rust accumulation. After I was told the replacement was near completed I received a phone call that there was a buzzing sound coming from the transmission that warranted taking out the transmission a second time to investigate the internal components and potential rebuild. Prior to the replacement being done I have never heard this sound and was told my the tow truck driver he hadn't heard the sound either.
I had another transmission specialist look at the vehicle and he pointed out that the gear fluid was near empty, and that there were fresh welds directly above the point where the buzzing sound was loudest. He concluded they may have dropped the transmission or potentially dropped something within the transmission while making a weld.Three separate transmission specialists have said it is very likely the result of the clutch replacement, and potentially the pilot or throw out bearings. How I should approach this issue as I have already invested $1500 in labor and clutch replacement and would like to avoid breaking the bank.
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The engine bolt in my 2004 Honda Accord broke off (while driving). The dealer repaired the car at the time because it was under warranty. I think this is an unusual event but wonder if my mechanic could have caused.
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