Honda - Cr-v :: 2003 - Dome Light Works In On Position But Not In Auto Position With The Doors
Aug 29, 2012
In hooking up a overhead DVD player it shorted out the Controlled Ground (Delay)(DOOR) Wire, now the dome light works still in the ON position but not in the AUTO position with the doors. It is very frustrating of a night when getting out and can't see. I'm not sure if it is a relay or a module that has gone bad and where it would be located. I know it's not a fuse because I have already check for that and I've checked the Controlled Ground Wire before it went bad and after with a meter.
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Well I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
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When I open the doors, my dome light does not come on. How can i fix this? Also, my truck has cruise control, when i set it and it engages, no indicator light comes on on the dash. Is that normal?
1998 f150 4x4 excab lariat with 103500 miles...
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We also noticed when depressing the horn to actuate it in the straight position, there is hardly any movement. When in a rotated position, there is a definite actuating movement or depression of the horn. There something happening when it's a straight position, the horn is being prevented from making contact so the horn will work.
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I find it is that the lights do not turn off after parking when they are in the auto position unless you take the key out. Is there any way around this? It's kind of odd to have to take out the key when parked inside the garage.
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7.3 XLT 2002 -- Dome light stays on when doors closed ...
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I've got a 2003 Oldsmobile Alero that will not start.
The only thing that happens is when the key is in the ACC position the light "service engine soon" comes on. When I try to start it the light goes off and nothing happens at all. Now I've realized the lights don't work, power windows, radio or anything. This morning my keyless entry worked before getting in my car and trying to start it but now it doesn't. It seems like I've blown a fuse but I can't find any that look blown. I don't have a light meter to be 100% sure however.
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The little device that hold doors open (so they don’t swing freely) aren’t very effective on my ’09 model. Actually, it's only a problem on the front doors. The rear doors hold position quite well. The front doors have always been a problem and I wonder if is this typical. Is there a fix (other than replacement)?
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New owner of a 2011 Prius II. I have put 600 miles on it so far.
1. Is there a way to make the car automatically lock when I get out of it without having to dig my key out of my purse and hit the lock button or run my finger over the door sensor? It seems to me that once you get out of key range, it should have an option to auto lock - or maybe after a certain amount of time autolock.
2. On a Prius II (no auto setting on headlights) - is there any problem at all with just leaving the headlights in the on position all the time? They turn off automatically 30 seconds after I leave the car, so is there a downside to doing this?
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05 screw with no electrical or lighting mods. The other morning when I left the house, turned on the lights, all of the marker lights, dash, fog, etc. come on normally but no headlights. Placed switch in auto and all works fine, including lights. Move switch back and forth between auto and manual a few times and lights finally come on in manual. Next few days they worked fine. Now again this weekend it did it again. Everything worked fine in auto but no headlights in manual. Run the lights in the auto position and after about 5 min on the road switched back to manual and lights came on. I'm thinking possibly a bad headlight switch or maybe a relay that's hanging up or has a bad contact. I've searched but most of the problems I see are when the lights don't work in auto not manual.
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I have a 2003 Lexus GS 300 with 125k. Two problems. First, the back doors don't lock or unlock electronically (well, very rarely one will unlock). The only way to lock/unlock them is to manually reach around. It started with the driver's side back door almost two years ago, and in the past 7-8 months the other one started doing the same thing.
Also, the steering wheel automatically moves out of position when the key is removed, and automatically back into position when the car is started. A nice feature, but the steering wheel screams when it moves up and down. It's loud and embarrassing.
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2008 Camry Hybrid. Normal lights are dim. Auto on position results in no lights. A turn brings the lights on, but appears to be a "parking" position. High beams OK
The dealership has no clue - they wanted to sell new bulbs. They are barely bright enough to drive at night, certainly not 10% dimmer from age as they described.. (plus the auto on does not work ).
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Passenger window just stopped working in closed position. Neither driver's or passenger's switch would operate it. Was told it was probably the motor. Replaced regulator and motor. Window went up from half way down position using driver's side switch, then back to not functioning at all. Window lock button off. Also, now the auto up/down for driver's window not working, needs to be depressed or lifted for open/close. Guess old motor and regulator were ok.
2005 HONDA ELEMENT 80,000 MI...
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I have a 99 Honda Accord with 172K miles on it. In the last couple months it's started slipping more often than when the problem first started about 4-5ish months ago. It tends to lurch when I start going again from a stopped position and I'm also now noticing it lurching a bit when I go from a slower speed to a faster one while driving...it's more noticeable going from a faster to slower speed when driving. So it tends to lurch most from a stopping position and also when slowing down while going moderate speeds like 40 or 50 mph.
I took it to a shop and they said it's in the begging stages of failure and that I can either rebuild the tranny or drive it until it dies, but that it will die eventually. My question is since it's slipping, is it still ok to drive on longer drives? I was considering driving about 7 hours to see my family in a month or so and I'm not sure if it's worth the risk of driving it that far. I want to buy a new car, but there's more Hondas around where I'm from originally and I just want to get a decent used one since it will cost more to fix the transmission than the car is worth. Thoughts about driving long distances with a slipping transmission????
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I had an engine swap recently done on a 2005 Honda Civic, and within a couple days, Check Engine light came on. Mechanic ran the error code and I have to apparently replace the camshaft position sensor. They are claiming that the sensor was not replaced in the engine swap, and so not covered by any warranty.
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My dome light won't illuminate when I open any door. I converted the dome light, courtesy lights and map lights to LED's about a year ago. I reinstalled the original bulb in the dome fixture to see if that would clear it up. Same thing. I can get the light to work if I switch it to "always on". I checked to make sure the dimmer switch on the dash was turned on, and it is. Any guesses?
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33k Civic 2001 "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining.
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My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) 33k threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining. So much for a reliable honda.
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A friend has 2001 Explorer, whose dome light isn't working from the driver's door. Did a quick Google and found a number of excellent answers and how-tos on this site, all focusing on the door switch. Problem: the door ajar light works properly, presumably clearing the switch.
My understanding is that the dome light is triggered by the GEM via a relay. When I considering the following:
- The dome light turns on via the headlight switch;
- The dome light turns on by opening the passenger door;
- The dome light does not turn on by opening the driver's door; and
- The driver's side door ajar functionality works -
I am led to conclude that the fault would lie in the GEM module. If the GEM is indeed bad, then the light will probably just stay out. But is there something else that I might be missing?
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My dome light stays on and green when my doors are closed and the door button is pressed. They light up bright white and normal in use but don't completely turned off unless I unpress the door button...
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we just bought a 2002 Excursion and it has a few issues. First off the door, the ajar light will not go out, however, the dome lights are not on constant, they come on briefly while the key is removed and do work with the roller switch. Also the radio doesn't shut off with the key removed until the timer relay kills all power. I have ohmed the door switches to ground all the way back to the VSM/GEM module. The door lock/unlock switches do nothing for any of the doors, the actuators don't even try to move. The auto headlights also do not function.
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