Honda - Cr-v :: 2002 - Stop When Driving And Usually In Front Of A Red Light When Car Is Idle
Aug 20, 2011
I have a 2002 Honda CRV that recently started to fail on me. I'll be driving and usually in front of a red light (when the car is idle), the car will stop. Luckily, the last time it happened, I was able to get the car to start back up again. Also, the car sometimes won't start (ignition won't start) from when it's been parked. It happened multiple times this past week and the mechanic apparently doesn't know what it is. He cleaned my throttle body, how smooth my car runs now (less shaky) but the problem still persists.
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Newly acquired 2002 Accord.
At idle and while at a stop, the cabin receives a heavy dose of exhaust fumes (nope, not from the auto in front of me - I'm often alone at stop lights/signs)... what is the most likely culprit?
This did not seem to occur until AFTER I had the timing belt (package) replaced...coincidence
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I own a 2002 Acura TL- car has 100K, i am the original owner- always maintained etc.. I am having problems with the transmission- car was in accident back in 2005, and tranny was replaced..Anyways, when i back car out and then hit it in drive, car goes to neutral. also when i drive, approach stop sign, and then accelerate, car goes to netural- dealer says need new tranny- cost is 2400 plus tax.... so i was thinking of doing that but now they say there is a leak with the oil pump- i said i dont see oil leaking they say its hitting the pan, could go in a month or in a year- cost 1200 to fix.. then he said the brake lines will need to be changed evenually- again 1000 or more.....ball joints- they quoated me 625...
So they say they will give me 500 bucks for a trade in- this car is in really good conditiion except for the supposed problems they found..If they car wouldnt have these problems i would get the tranny fixed- but i dont know what to do- ball joints dont have to be replaced- they hvae a little play.. the oil leak? I mean i have a 2000 accord that the dealer says is leaking- my private mechanic says all accords leak.
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I have a 2002 VW passat sometimes at a stop light the car seems to just die, stop, the engine just stops, I have checked/ Replaced the fuel filter, air cleaner, I am stuck.
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey. I recently had the air conditioning compressor replaced. Now, when the A/C is on and I accelerate from a stop; the engine "whines" through the first 3 gears or so. Also, when the A/C starts up initially from a cold start there is an audible groan and light drop in RPMs. Also, if I turn the A/C off while accelerating the noise immediately disappears.
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I have a 2011 Honda Civic EX-L sedan with 10,000miles on it. I've noticed that the brakes often make a squeaking noise when I am driving slowly and come to a stop at a stop sign. It seems to happen most often after a cold start (e.g. I notice it in the morning when I start my drive to work and otherwise when I have not been driving around in my car). I took it to the dealership today and they said everything was fine with the brakes; they are in great shape and starting to wear normally. They found nothing wrong and they did not hear the squeaking although I heard it this morning and last night.
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I drive an automatic transmission. After driving about 10 miles, when I come to a stop sign/stoplight in drive 4, the car will "brake" but will idle and then violently shake back into gear. It doesn't seem to happen in Drive 3, so what I do before a stoplight etc is slowly shift down to D2 or D1. Is the transmission totally shot? I had it replaced once.
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After 90K miles of using Castrol 5W30 dyno and changing it every 3-3.5K miles , I have just changed to 0W40 Mobil Synthetic. I have a 2002 Passat V6 automatic tip . I am hoping to have a smoother idle at stop lights .
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My 02 camry recently started dying at a stop and would not idle above 1000 rpm. I cleaned the throttle body(very dirty) and the car started right up idling at about 1500-2000 rpm i walked away for a minute and came by to drive it and no acceleration would come as well as when i start it up now it just goes back to idle at about 500 rpm.
I am not sure what the problem may be, my air filter box is not on properly I am going back to the car to tighten it down today but i highly doubt it will fix anything. I also read something about the computer needing reset, if i go and unhook the batter for 30 min and hook it back up will the computer reset and possibly fix my acceleration problem?
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I have a 2005 Honda CR-V with about 97,000 miles on it. I recently noticed that there's a rattling sound when the car is idle but it disappear when driving. The noise can only heard outside. It is also intermittent. I just had the idler pulley/Belt Tensioner replaced a couple of days ago as a friend thought that was the issue. Car seems run normal, I don't notice any change in performance and no check engine or what so ever. I have a long drive coming up in a couple of weeks and I have no clue what could be going on.
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I drive a 2002 Honda Civic. I was driving home from work one day, traveling about 40mph when the car shuddered, the check engine light came on, and I decelerated to 20mph or so. It then wouldn't go any faster than 20-25mph without more shuddering and revving up past 5000rpm. I am able to drive the last 1-2 miles home at low speed without problems. I am able to drive the 15-20 miles to work in the mornings without issue, even on the highway at 70mph. It has been hot in the afternoons (95-100+) and I wonder if the heat has something to do with it. Also, I have an in-dash DVD unit and the screen turns dim/an odd tint from time to time. It doesn't seem to coincide with the other problems. A repair shop said they think it might be a grounding issue.
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My Honda Accord 2002 feels like brakes apply themselves when driving. Car slows down and brake pedal is really sensitive meaning it feels harder than usual and easier to brake. Dont know if it is the brake master cylinder, brake booster or something else.
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ive actually owned 4 volkswagens one of which was a 2002 big turbo gti which made 325whp..... so now i have a 2005 Jetta GLI with about 41k on it. This car has a serious idle problem. Start up is fine and it runs great and hits boost perfect. It has a 6 speed, APR chip intake, forge DV, and DP. When i come to a traffic light and come to a complete stop after about 10 seconds it hiccups and the idle drops to abou 600 and then back up to normal idle. It will also do it if i just leave the car running in neutral it will randomly stutter. I have new spark plugs and new fuel injectors and i only use 93.
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After starting the car and driving for about 10-15 minutes a few days ago I came to a stop in a parking lot and the car shut off and would not re-start for about 5 minutes. The car started again so I shrugged it off and drove on. About 10 minutes down the road again the oil lamp started to flash and the STOP warning came up. I unfortunately was on a one lane construction zone so I had to limp for a minute to clear it so I could pull over. The car would switch from responding/non-responding to the gas pedal. Finally pulled it off to the side got it towed home and to the mechanic. I haven't heard any news yet but I'm trying to gather some info.
Just a few things I've read about looking into :
-ECT (Engine coolant temperature sensor) ...
-Oil pump ...
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My '02 Explorer transmission is giving me a little trouble. The vehicle has 240,000 miles, but the transmission has been rebuilt several miles ago. I recently had the fluid changed, and I had them add a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix, which I have had good luck with in the past. Most of the time, the transmission behaves normally.
Occasionally however, when I come to a stop after driving for a while, the transmission stops pulling, like it has shifted into neutral. Sometimes it will re-engage after a couple seconds, and sometimes I try to hurry it along by shifting to Park, then back to Drive and it will go. If I am on an incline, and the vehicle does this, it will actually roll down the hill.
Hopefully there is a simple fix because this thing is too close to the end of its life to require a hefty repair investment! Maybe a switch or a sensor. I'd love to tell you that I checked the fluid level, but Ford forgot to put a transmission dipstick on it.....
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My 2002 CR-V has 126,000 miles. For the last year I have brought my vehicle to the mechanic numerous times because it clicks (sounds from the passenger side dash board) bucks, and stalls while driving, especially if it has been sitting in the sun, causing the check engine light to eventually turn on. When checked by the mechanic it doesn't give a code. It seems to be electrical in nature because in the winter, even though it is significantly less of a problem, my new batteries seem to drain overnight. We have replaced both PCM relays, the air/fuel sensor, and the ignition switch. The problem remains almost unchanged. While highway driving I often have to switch gears because I will suddenly lose all power and could floor the accelerator to no avail. If I am sitting at a light, the vehicle will usually stall if I have to wait too long.
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Often my car would vibrate when I come to a stop at a light or stop sign. Is that normal for all cars that have aged? My car is 2008 and have ~70k miles. Is there something going bad or is there some maintenance that I should be doing and missed?
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02 Civic, 1.7L, 114K Found the front brakes sticking. I popped the bleeder open and got a little squirt out of the left side and a less of a squirt out of the right. I'm in the process of changing the pads which are on order from Rockauto. I took the existing pads off and lubed the pad guides/holding slots but I felt them starting to drag again after a short test drive. Also they did not seem to respond properly with normal braking. How would I test the caliper(s)? It's got to be a bad caliper or master cylinder causing this and I just don't want to throw parts at it.
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The dealer recently replaced the front and side motor supports. Since then I've noticed that the car idles high when first cranked and I smelled excessive exhaust fumes. One time it idled really high and would not idle down when I hit the gas. Then it started idling up and down when my foot was not on the gas. Could there be any connection between this and the motor support installation? Could linkage to the gas pedal have been bent during installation? 2002 6 cylinder Honda Accord EX.....
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I have a 2002 passat. It is a 1.8T. I have a stock turbo, it has a full aftermarket front mount hooked up. It also has a blow off valve. OK my issue is that I believe it runs too rich. When I drive the idle will drop and the car will stall out. It has its good days and bad days. What can I do to make this not happen? Would I have to have a recirculate the air flow again? Should I have everything stock again? Would anything else stop this happening? As well as how much PSI does this car stock suss posed to push? I have a boost meter that only reads max 5 psi. Should it be more? I am new to VW and brought the car off a friend.
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