Honda - Cr-v :: 2001 Won't Idle When Engine Gets Up To Temperature
Jan 16, 2013
2001 honda crv wont idle when warm. Had cylinder head checked and valves ground replaced the iac new plugs cap and rotor ...
View 2 Replies2001 honda crv wont idle when warm. Had cylinder head checked and valves ground replaced the iac new plugs cap and rotor ...
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 honda civic ex with the d16y8, have replaced the map sensor and iacv and still have a fluctuating idle only when car is warm or at operating temperature. it has dc sports racing headers into a straight pipe then exhaust tip. does not have any o2 seniors on it(wasn't my choice was like that when i got it) will idle up and down between 1700 and 2200 rpm also after replacing iacv the car jerk when going at low speeds or letting off then getting back on accelerator.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2004 Honda Civic that has about 183,000 miles.The problem is that when I start my car in the morning, the car never totally warms up when it's cold outside (I live in VA), until I press the gas pedal and rev the engine. Until I press the gas pedal, the temperature gauge stays at cold, and the heater blows cool air. I've taken it to the dealer 12 times for the same issue, but they can never find the real problem.
They flushed the A/C hoses and radiator, replaced the radiator cap, installed an upper hose, installed head gasket, water pump, and while there, the timing belt. They've also "burped" it numerous times. Also, when I have the heater on and fan on high, the temperature gauge drops as I'm going down a mountain and not pressing the gas pedal. After driving, and I stop, it also slowly drops while idling for about 5 - 10 min.
When it's warmer outside, I don't have any problems, because I don't have the heater on. This has been going on for about 1 1/2 years now, and it's starting to get cooler again, so I need to get it fixed or sell it.
I have a 1998 Honda Accord Coupe with a 2.3L straight 4 with a 5 speed manual. Last night when I was driving home the car was idling at around 200 RPM when the engine was warm. And then this morning it started fine, ran fine, but as the engine temperature increased the idle decreased, as it should. But even when it wasn't fully at the proper temp it was idling at 500 RPM. When it warmed up to the proper temp it was idling at 150, yes 150. It was touching the 0 RPM line, but it didn't stall. It has had problems in the past with initial low idling, like when you disengage the clutch, but never constantly idling so low. Keep in mind that the idling hasn't progressively gotten lower over time. The problem just arose last night. Also, it accelerates fine, and the check engine light isn't on. What is most likely the cause?
View 4 RepliesThis weekend I was one a trip in my '98 Civic, and I noticed some movement in my temperature gauge. It didn't really overheat; the needle never got near the red, but it did go a little higher than usual.
Normally, once the engine heats up, the needle on the temperature gauge doesn't move, not even a little. It sits right under the squiggly lines on the temperature gauge icon. However, on Friday, when I got off the highway, the needle rose into the upper part of the icon, to the part with the thermometer.
As soon as the car started moving, the needle on the temperature gauge went back to its normal spot, so I assumed it was a problem with the radiator fan and I kept on driving, prepared to turn on the heat if the needle on the temperature gauge started going up.
Saturday morning I took the car to a local shop in Jacksonville, and it turns out the engine needed a new fan and a new thermostat.
The first lesson that comes to mind is that keeping an eye on my temp gauge might have saved me an engine. It certainly saved me a head gasket. Since a head gasket or new engine would have been worth more than the car, catching this before it became a problem saved me from having to buy another car.
The next lesson is that my Civic had two things wrong with the cooling system, and yet it barely showed any symptoms. The air conditioner doesn't work I guess since a working A/C would probably have made it overheat. In any case, I've probably been driving without a working radiator fan for some time.
The final lesson is that if I had tried to diagnose this myself, I'd probably be driving around with a new radiator fan and a bad thermostat. I paid about $435 for a new fan, thermostat, and fresh coolant (I declined the cooling system flush) and it was worth every penny.
I have a 6th Gen 2007 Toyota Camry with the 4 cylinder engine with 150,000 miles, original owner.
After changing the car battery, the engine idle when at operating temperature went from the stock 650 to 450 RPMs. The engine does not stall and runs amazingly smooth at 450, but the drive ability from start is jerky and the car will roll backwards in drive on a small grade while in drive.
Another tip, before this issue, when cold on start up the engine would rev to about 2,000 RPM's then slowly drop which I understood to be normal and part of the emissions system. Now it revs to about a 1,000 and quickly drops to 450.
During the summer, my Celica runs just fine. Now, the temps are as low as the single digits outside (Fahrenheit). While I'm out driving, it can easily take 30 mile or more miles of driving before the engine finally warms up to the normal operating temperature, according to the dash gauge.
My mechanic is quoting me $135 or so to replace the thermostat. I haven't heard of thermostats getting stuck open and resulting in "under" heating conditions too often though.
Any thoughts on what the likely cause of this cold engine condition is? My gas mileage has also taken a good sized hit. Lost 5 mpg or so.
Can I just put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator for the winter and call it good?
Since I bought the car I noticed my temperature gauge has never even touched the middle mark on the instrument panel. Is this normal or is my thermostat hung open?
View 4 Replies2003 Hyundai Elantra, 1975cc engine, XD. P0198 Error Code.
I know this is the Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High code and I have seen indications this may mean high voltage on this sensor. My problem is I cannot locate this sensor on the engine. From what I have read this sensor is supposed to be on the driver's side of the engine on the head, rear side.
On my engine the head was replaced (unknown to me when I recently purchased the vehicle). From all indications this is not a CVVT engine. The air intake has a MAP sensor that is connected and appears to be functioning properly. The driver's side of the engine does have two coils but I can see no other wires from the wiring harness toward the rear of the head other than leads to the starter.
The cam sensor is located on the passenger side of the engine, rear side. I have found the oil pressure sensor and crankshaft sensor on the front side of the engine block toward the driver's side. I have found and engine temperature sensor on the driver,s side of the engine on a housing connected to a radiator hose.
Oddly enough there was an OCV hanging on the harness toward the front driver's side of the wiring harness. Adjacent to this plug is a second plug on a shorter lead that is not connected to anything. Both of these plugs have two leads but are shaped differently oval for the OCV and the other is rectangular. I am wondering if this rectangular plug is for the engine oil temperature sensor? What I cannot see is where the temperature sensor would screw into the head on the front driver's side (near this plug).
I went to NAPA today and they do not have an engine oil temperature sensor listed, but I was able to find one on line. I cannot find a connection point on the head that looks like the picture of the sensor on-line.
I went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
View 5 RepliesEngine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
Have a 2001 CRV that is running really bad. It almost stalls when I put it in gear or even when the RPM's fall to idle. It is now throwing a p0172 code. I have a simple scan tool and verified the MAP reading and primary O2 voltages as suggested by the manual, both appeared to be normal. It seems all the symptoms point to valve clearance, however the valve were adjusted not 2000 miles ago by the dealer during the 150K service, and this issue has existed before and after that adjustment. I also cleaned the IAC screen with no changes.
View 5 RepliesMy car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
View 3 RepliesI have replaced a head gasket on my 2001 civic LX recently. I have drain the coolant and put it back on again. Now I have idle issues, the car starts fine with high RPM (because it is cold) about 5 min latter the RPM changes, it revs low and high (about 2000 rpm) when it should be idling normally. I have taken the radiator cap (before i start the engine) and run it a while with the cap off to purge any air pockets, no luck. Another thing I have realized that there is a pressure build up in the upper and lower radiator hoses when it is running with the radiator cap on. How to fix this problem?
View 13 Replies09 Sport AT; 79,000 miles
I have owned car for 2 months.
Last few weeks the engine sounds louder at idle and there some vibration. The passenger side wiper arm vibrates due to engine vibration.
I am trying to diagnose a hunting idle on my 1991 Honda Civic. I have bled the coolant system thoroughly. Going to check for vaccum hose leaks next. However, I was thinking the next likely suspect would be the Idle Air Control Valve... I took it off and cleaned it with carb cleaner. I noticed that when I unplug the IAC's power plug the idle of the car slows a little bit, but the vehicle doesn't die.
If the IAC was functioning properly would one be able to expect it to close off all air flow and the engine, resulting in the engine dying when IAC is disconnected?
I have a 2003 Element in very good condition. I have religiously taken it to my local Honda Service and the car is maintained in accordance to the manufacturer's guidelines. My Element has 113,000 miles and has not had any problems until recently. On numerous, but inconsistent occasions when I turn on the engine, cold and warm, the idle is lower and the engine quieter than normal (almost feels like the engine is not on). When I begin to drive, it doesn't bolt out and gradually moves slowly. I could drive for several blocks and it appears normal until I come to a stop; the engine dies and I have to restart. This does not happen all the time, but when it does, it's only the when I turn the ignition and the engine turns on and the idle is lower than normal. When the engine is turned on and the idling is higher, I don't have this problem. I have taken this to my Honda service on two occasions and they could not find anything abnormal. I asked them to check the fuel line; they said they did (don't know if they actually did or just told me they did).
View 9 RepliesMy '96 Honda Accord has about 174,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago I checked my oil and the oil was black and way above the full level. I had also been adding 8-9 ounces of coolant previous to checking the level.
My coolant temp gauge has never gone beyond normal range. Two mechanics said I had a blown head gasket. I decided to change the oil and filter and only put in 4 quarts of oil. The level is only up about 1/4 inch level and the rest of the dipstick is completely clear. My friends also checked and it is so clean, like there is no oil in the car, but I have no signs of oil leaking. My oil pressure gauge shows normal pressure.
I continue to add 2-3 ounces of coolant each week. Early in the morning the engine shudders a minute or two before calming to a normal idle. I only drive around town a little, 75 miles a week. Can I continue running the car in this condition? If so, for how long? There is nothing else wrong with the car. Is it worth repairing?
I have a '03 Civic DX 5 speed. It has 128000 miles on it. I've notice now that it is getting colder, my engine ticks when it is warm - I can hear it at idle and low rpms, but not at higher rpms. It sounds perfect when it's cold, but once it is warm, it has a "tic-a-tic-a-tic-a-tica..." sound. Tom and Ray talked about a Dodge Dakota that made the same sound when the engine was cold (about 8 episodes ago). So what does it mean if it only does it when warm?
View 9 RepliesIt only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
View 7 Replies!995 honda accord, 5 speed. Idle is fine until the engine warms up, then fluctuates between 1500 to 2500 rpms. The idle control valve was cleaned- no change. Valve was also replaced -also with no change. Put old valve back on. Computer was disconnected after cleaning and also after each valve change.Would the next step be to remove and clean the fast idle thermo sensor? Also how do you check the coolant lines coming in. Anything else I would need to check, clean or replace.
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