Honda - Cr-v :: 2001 - Acceleration From A Stop Sluggish - CEL With P1508 Error?
Sep 4, 2011
I recently replaced the 181K mile valve-burned engine in my 2001 Honda CR-V with a 40K mile engine from Japan. Since the swap idle is slightly erratic, acceleration from a stop is sluggish and check engine light indicates "P1508 error code" which is "Idle Air Control valve circuit failure." Also have an issue with the A/C cycling on and off rapidly when idling that goes away as soon as the engine rpm is slightly increased. New OEM IAC valve is costly so I hesitate to replace it. All parts other than the engine itself are from my original engine in my CR-V.
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I am having some trouble with my 02 Buick recently. The acceleration from a stop is very sluggish and gear changes come slowly, although they still seem to shift smoothly. The first thing I did was check the fluid levels and I can find nothing wrong there. The trans fluid was last changed 3 years ago, but the level, color, and smell are all normal so surely that couldn't be the culprit ?Unfortunately, that about exhausts my diagnostic skill.
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Just this past weekend my wife got her 2010 Golf Highline with the 6-speed tiptronic transmission. Just a quick question about the gas pedal. when it is on "D" it really feels heavy and sluggish when going from full stop to acceleration. the pedal feels so hard and when you step on it feels like its not going at all. but as soon as it goes on 3rd everything seems ok. and then we tried putting it into "S" (sports) mode and everything was really good and quick. but when on this mode you need to be really hard on the gas pedal for it to run smooth. so i guess my question is...is it really like that when driving in the "D" mode??
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I have a Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. 2002. It has sluggish acceleration and hesitation problems. I put in new plugs and that improved it some. My mechanic says I should pay him to clean the fuel injectors. What will work best? What needs to be cleaned? Would new plug wires work? Gumout? Big differences in cost.
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2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 2WD ... Car was running fine, filled it with gas, and upon starting, heard a backfire into the intake manifold. It coded for a Cylinder 3 misfire so I had plugs and wires changed.
Now...The car starts, idles rough, accelerates sluggishly, and running rough any time it was around 2000 RPM. After I changed the plugs, it started bucking a little and stalls when I take off in the morning.
Coded and it's reading 7 codes, but some are duplicates:
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High
-P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
-P0050 H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0030 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
-P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Control High (Shows Twice)
-P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input (Shows Twice)
After having a backfire and then cylinder misfire...replacing the plugs and wires.
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Need to diagnose a problem with my 2001 Prius. I was driving it on the highway when suddenly the hybrid system warning light and the main battery light, along with the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned off the car, and turned it back on. The main battery light error cleared but the Hybrid System warning light stayed on as did the check engine light.
I took my car into the dealership and they told me that the 12V battery was probably low at some point but that they didn't find any problems.
The error codes that came up were: C1215, C1241, C1259, C1521, C1522, C1558, and C1559.
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I got an Error Code of U0D00. What this is or means. The scan tool says to refer to your manual but I don't have one.
What the vehicle is doing is that it will work fine for a while then when you stop (in park) the engine will rev really high and back down all by it self for example. It will go up to 3.5 and back to 1 rpm repeated. Then when you start moving the car it will continue to idle higher like you are pressing the gas. During all of this the check engine light will appear?
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33k Civic 2001 "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining.
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My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) 33k threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining. So much for a reliable honda.
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Ok here's the situation. 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD 170,000 miles.
I recently had to replace the front passenger side Drive axle. That was a piece of cake. However, since then the car has developed a shudder when it comes to stop (felt like the shudder on acceleration that was fixed by the dealer with a reflash). Suddenly it got so bad that it stalls when put into gear with the brake on. It feels like it is not coming out of converter lockup.
When I drained the fluid I replaced it with Valvoline Import multi-vehicle full synthetic (it says it is spiII). I latter added another half quart of Castrol transmax import multi-vehicle (also spIII). Did I screw up my trans? Will a flush work? Or do I just need to replace the trans and torque converter?
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I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2004 6cyl 2.7 L , AWD. I am having problem of slow acceleration which is worse after a stop sign or red light. Sometimes while taking turns I feels like that I will not move and I was lucky to be not hit by a Car coming from opposite direction while taking a left turn today.
The Truck’s exhaust pipe broke recently and a auto garage welded it. But I am facing the above problem immediately after the repair of exhaust pipe. If I put more pressure on gas pedal then a mal function indicator comes and today I took it to another mechanic and he gets the error code of P0303 –engine misfire and wants to charge me ~ $600 $ to replace spark plugs and wires. The malfunction indicator goes off also while I am driving and can comes back after a while or a day. With the indicator on, the car drives erratic (minor jolts ) for few meters and then its fine. Since when I am driving on highways then I can go higher speeds without any problem. Is it still misfire issue???
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Well, I just went to grab some lunch and on the way home I got on it a bit. I was met with sluggish acceleration and a flashing CEL. Before I could even turn the car off, the CEL went away. I was about 200 yards from my house so I coasted home. What could the issue be?
2008 Passat 2.0T Tippy with APR stage 2.
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I drive a 2001 Hyundai Accent. About a month a go the CE light came on. at first, the car was driving fine so I thought nothing of it. Then I started noticing that the acceleration was sluggish and when it finally accelerated, it basically slingshot forward. What could be wrong. There's no smell, rattling or anything else. The only thing I noticed was the engine was a bit louder.
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I recently took my truck to the mechanic for a bad transmission leak, they told me they had to replace the Oil Cooler Lines (upper and lower) and that they did a transmission service (flushed out the transmission), the leak is fixed, but as soon as I started driving, I noticed that the acceleration is very sluggish from a full stop, I can floor the pedal and there is no difference, once I get going it seems fine (though a bit high on RPM's but not much). I also noticed some of that liquid sealant residue droplets on my windshield, similar to the type of sealant an AC place did for me to seal an AC leak, not sure if that has anything to do with this.
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I picked up my first GTI about 3 months ago, a 2011 Autobahn with about 35,000 miles. I love the way it drives. I had been admiring them from a distance, and was finally able to pick one up. Unfortunately, I've run into a few issues. I'm pretty much a rookie when it comes to the inner workings of cars, but I'm eager to get into it more. My issue is below:
Over the last few weeks, the car has been consistently a little sluggish, and the acceleration has seemed a bit jumpy. I've only used premium gas, and I've been looking for simple things that might be the issue. I live in Houston, and I was wondering if maybe the extreme heat and humidity might be the reason behind the sluggish performance.
Yesterday, I decided I would clean the air intake filter. It has a K&N intake from the previous owner. After cleaning the filter and replacing it, the car wouldn't start. I may have put too much oil on the filter or the humidity may have just caused it to take longer to dry than the instructions on the cleaning kit recommend.
I called my bro-in-law who is the go-to car guy in our family. He recommended that I try starting the engine without the air filter and pull out the MAF sensor and check it out. When I took off the filter, the car started fine. I replaced the filter, then also pulled the MAF sensor to see if it needed to be cleaned. I found that the bottom of the MAF sensor was bent and slightly dented. I could also see a place where the sensor had scratched the bottom of the pipe.
This morning, the car is running a little smoother (better than before, but not as quick as I remember), but the check engine light has come one. Could the performance issues be due to the damage to the MAF sensor? With the check engine light, is that something that is automatically triggered by removing the MAF sensor? Or is there some other issue.
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I got the car last fall so I don't know too much of the history. I will list the symptoms the best I can.-goes through about a quart of oil every 300 miles, looks to mostly come out the exhaust-seems to really blow smoke when the vtec activates-as the weather has gotten colder, it has been idling erratically until it warms up.-check engine light went on today-when accelerating from stop engine stutters briefly (this started when light came on)-warm idle speed now seems to be over 1000 rpm....
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I have a 96 aurora that has been giving me alot of problems. It started with the car being real hard to start and very sluggish upon acceleration. I had an engine code of 0300 (multiple cylinder misfire) I had a full tune up as well as an intake manifold gasket done. This seemed to fix the problem for a short time. The problem then started again. this time i was told that it was a fuel pump so i went ahead and changed that as well. Again this fixed the problems for a short time. Now i am having the same problem again. I now have 2 engine codes 0300 as well as 0151(bank 1 sensor 2 o2 sensor) This started after it rained and i notice the problem always seems to be a little worse when its wet out. Also the car is really only hard to start when it has sat for awhile. m If i drive it and come back 5 minutes later it will start right up though it still idels really rough and has no acceleration. Can the o2 sensor be causing the misfires and if so will that make it hard to start. Also if i changed the fuel pressure regulator about a year ago.
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Lately I have found that when I am trying to go up an incline on my road, that my car has trouble accelerating. Almost as if the engine is being choked off like it is about to stall or is out of gas. I have to press the accelerator almost to the floor to get up the incline. The suddenly it will lurch and accelerate rapidly as if I have put the car in Power Mode.
I should also add that this only happens when the engine is cold. I didn't have this problem last year at all. I usually wait a couple of minutes after the engine starts before I try to drive, but that doesn't seem to work.
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Experienced sluggish acceleration with their "09" Santa Fe. I have the 2.7 liter 6 cyl. engine and it seems so sluggish when accelerating. I have replaced all the plugs with some best rated ones specific to my model. I have tried one of the best rated fuel system cleaners. It still seems to have no pep, my daughter's 1999 Honda has far more get up and go.
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I was on my way home suddenly the acceleration of the trib went sluggish.... low idle especially when you put it on drive and with the a/c on. It can rev but it feels like you are revving a 1.1L engine.
What could be the cause? I already had the sensors etc cleaned 6 months ago.....It has NO check engine light.
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2007 F150 King Ranche 4wd 5.4 192000 miles.
I started noticing a little stutter when trying to hold 45 mph if I hit a mild incline, and also at 70 or so if i hit an incline.
Around the same time, I noticed that acceleration seemed sluggish when getting on the interstate. Gas mileage dropped from 16-17 mpg combined to 12-13 mpg combined.
Historically, since I bought the truck 3 years ago, if I go WOT to get up to highway speed (Not my normal mode of driving, more of a test) I would get a misfire on cylinder 8.
About 2 weeks ago, driving around town, I got a check engine light. The code said it was rich on bank 2. Cleared the code, it has not come back.
Here is what I have done:
Flushed the tranny (Vehicle history shows this has been done consistently since original purchase)
Changed all 8 plugs (none broke!) and all 8 COPs. - Fixed the misfire on cylinder 8.
Still sluggish and still have the stutter at 45 and 70 on an incline. I know it's not a racecar, but 0-60 in 19.6 seconds seems quite unreasonable.
New Fuel Filter
New Air filter
Cleaned MAF sensor
Had the back pressure on exhaust checked. No blockage there.
My torque app tells me the TPS is functioning normally.
No codes are being thrown, no CEL at this time.
What am I missing? I have a reader that will chart up to 8 sensors as I drive.
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