Honda - Cr-v :: 2000 Stalls When Engine Is Cold And Shift Into Gear
Dec 31, 2011
My 2000 Honda CRV starts when cold, however I must continue to give it gas and it will die when I shift into Reverse or Drive. If I rev the engine, I can keep it running and it will run OK once warmed up. When I get it going, the engine will stall if I attempt to let it idle. All problems resolve themselves once the engine is warm. Several mechanics have seen the problem, but cannot determine a solution other than to let the engine warm up. I live in Boston and the combination of having to work my way out of a parking space and the enginge continously stalling when I shift into R or D is making life difficult?
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I have been having a problem with my brake light warning on my dashboard as my car accelerates and shifts gears. Coincidently the problem began after carting around a co-worker that weighed some 250 pounds in my 2000 Honda Civic. I'm wondering if I have an alignment problem or something more serious.
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I just rolled over to 90,000 miles on my 2002 Accord. Its running beautifully, however every so often the car "rumbles" or "shudders" when I'm releasing the clutch after I shift into second gear, or sometimes it'll do it when I'm facing up a hill pulling into first gear letting out the clutch. Its almost as if the clutch rapidly grabs then slips a bunch of times, similar to if it was warped. It doesn't completely slip at all to my knowledge. The car was bought new by my family and has been driven pretty carefully since (although 2 people have learned to drive stick on it, and my dad isn't the most "gentle" driver in the universe). I know that Clutch rebuilding and replacing is a big expensive job and its something I wouldn't even consider doing myself. So, when is it time to really seriously consider dropping down the serious cash to get the clutch rebuilt? To be honest, the shuddering is really annoying (it doesn't happen all the time though) but its something I could live with for a bit.
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I have a 2000 honda civic with 120,000 miles on it. recently, on cold starts (when i haven't turned the engine for a day) i've noticed a rapid vibrating or rattling noise about 30 seconds or so after i've turned the ignition. this noise lasts for maybe 15 to 20 seconds then it goes away, presumably as the engine has warmed a little.
I do drive a lot, and during the day even after the car has not been running for a few hours this noise doesn't occur. Only happens on the cold starts. I hope it's nothing major. I've attached a video with the sound. about 30 seconds into the video you will hear the noise kick in. (if the video doesn't show below here is the youtube link: [URL] ....
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
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I own a 2008 Honda Fit 5sp manual with 95,000 miles and have had noticed that the car will stall in cold weather. When stopping, I push the clutch in and take my foot off the gas to apply the brake. When the car stops the rpms go to zero and the car stalls. It has no problem starting again but will do this consistently until the engine is hot. It has also stalled on particularly cold/rainy days while the car is moving (over 30mph).
I can prevent the car from stalling by revving the engine, but I would need a third foot to do this while stopping. The check engine light is off. I took it to the dealer who has not been able to reproduce the problem and says it's operator error that is causing the engine to stall.
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Have a 2001 CRV that is running really bad. It almost stalls when I put it in gear or even when the RPM's fall to idle. It is now throwing a p0172 code. I have a simple scan tool and verified the MAP reading and primary O2 voltages as suggested by the manual, both appeared to be normal. It seems all the symptoms point to valve clearance, however the valve were adjusted not 2000 miles ago by the dealer during the 150K service, and this issue has existed before and after that adjustment. I also cleaned the IAC screen with no changes.
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I have a 2000 honda v7 coupe and recently I've been having problems starting it. Generally when I drive to work in the morning it's fine. However if I am running errands and make many stops then it isn't. After stopping at one place I start my car like usual, then the RPMs rise, the car rumble, and then it stops. However if i pump the gas then it is fine. When I am driving then I have no issues and the car runs smoothly. I recently had a major maintenance and also told them about this problem. They said that they couldn't diagnose it since I didn't bring it in with the problem.
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2007 F350 138,000 miles
I'm having a small problem. For the past couple of weeks I've started the truck in the morning. I let it run for a few min's as I always do. I jump in it an put into gear and it stalls. Put back in Park , starts right up and then is fine.
knowing that the EGR is due for its monthly cleaning, I went ahead this time around and got a new one for it. Same thing this morning.
I think its kinda odd that it stalls that one time and then is fine. I do run a scan gauge in the truck as well.
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I have a 4cl- 2000 Honda Accord about 160,000 miles on it. I have been having a shaking problem with my engine when it starts up after warm. If I drive more then 20 minutes, stop my car, to say go run an errand, and then come back and turn it on, it shakes and sometimes stalls out. I notice that the RPMs don't go above 1000 and waiver below that. When I do get it going, I have to tap on the gas a bit to get it to regulate. On longer drives after I stop it, it won't start and have to leave it sit for about 20 min. and then get it started by tapping the gas.
The check engine light that did come on has been checked as a cylinder 2 misfire. Sometimes it will flash and sometimes it will not come on.
I have new wires and spark plugs. A 3 year old timing belt. No vacuum leaks or gas line leaks. (all been checked by a mechanic).
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My wife has a 03 kia spectra that won't shift into 3rd gear[Automatic] when it's cold. The trans. filter and fluid have been change and it was fine for about 3 months until today. Talked to a dealer and they had no clue other than to get a new trans. The car has 105,000 mi.so I really don't wanna spend that much $ on it if I don't have to
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2002 Honda CRV. Has 62,000 miles. When 1st started there is a noticeable hard shift from 1st to 2nd. If you drive a short distance, say 2 blocks and come to a stop and take off again it shifts smoothly, will shift fine the rest of the in town stop and go driving. ( Does not matter cold or warm ) If you shut off the vehicle for just 5 minutes. the same thing happens, a noticeable clunk shifting 1st to 2nd. Do notice that the rpms do go up past the normal shift rpm, so if you let up on the accelerator it will not clunk or hard shift. Trans oil has been changed, did not notice anything in the drain oil. Fluid was normal color.Does this transmission have a filter that should be changed? Did some on line looking and see some mention of a linear solenoid?
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I have a 97 Honda Accord ex, and no matter how hot or cold it is outside, if the car hasn't been ran in more than an hour or two, it needs 5 minutes to warm up, (RPMs go down to 500, then rev up to 1200. That's how I know I can go) or else when driving it will stay in first gear and not allow me to go faster than 20 MPH. My mechanic said that the codes P0171 and P0505 came up. Also, the gas mileage is terrible, even after my fuel filter was changed.
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I have an old (mid-'90s) Honda Odyssey that has generally worked great. Yesterday, it struggled to get up an icy driveway (since it does not have four-wheel drive) and once at the top seemed to to disengage from fourth gear into neutral, though it was still in fourth. After turning off the car and restarting, it engaged fine.Today the same thing happened on a level, non-icy surface after a few minutes of driving at slow speed. Is it possible to avoid this problem by driving in a lower gear to begin with?Any repairs would likely cost more than the car is worth, but I want to keep driving it -- safely -- as long as possible.
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2011 TDi 6 Speed (Sportwagon) with problems shifting into 2nd? Mine is currently in the shop under investigation for a balky shift when cold. The tech says it's not right, but then they find another vehicle in inventory with the same issue...currently waiting on a VW engineer.
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Started noticing an issue with my trans awhile ago, the other day it stopped shifting out of first when cold. It's a 1.8T auto 5 speed tiptronic, it's the Jatco 09A. I know the shifting problem is the solenoids and it doesn't look that hard to swap them out. The trans shop said it looks like there is slippage on gears 2-4 and the fluid is toast. Looking at replacing or rebuilding, shop said 4-5 grand, how easy would it be to swap in a used trans? And what kind of issues would I be looking at?
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My husband likes to shift into first gear as he's coming to a stop (either sign or light). I think you shouldn't put it in first until you're at a complete stop. He says he's not doing any harm as long as the clutch is engaged.
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'89 Honda Accord LX Sedan 5-Speed, 266k miles...
Bought this car recently and it worked fine when I got it (the most perfect 22-year old car I've ever seen). Between then and now I've driven it a little. It's my first stick shift car, so I've stalled it a few times, ground the gears a little, etc. learning to drive it. Anyway, it now won't shift into first gear. It shifts fine and drives fine in all the other gears, the only problem is with first. It also shifts fine into all gears when the car is off.
On a side note (in case it pertains to this situation), the car takes a little while to warm up. For 5-10 minutes after it is turned on, it idles really fast and makes a horrid scratching noise and then stalls if put into reverse (don't know about first, since it won't go into first). Once the idling slows down, though, this problem goes away.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is choking and/or almost stalling out when I shift usually from 1st to 2nd gear, but also sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. It usually happens after I've driven it for about 20 minutes upon coming to a stop (intersection/stop sign). When I finally go, I push on the accelerator but it feels like no gas is being pumped through with a loss of power. I repeatedly push on the accelerator until it finally kicks over and power is restored. My check engine light is on and I've had the diagnostics read from local parts stores and mechanics and no one can narrow it down. My mechanic said that it sounds like the valves were sticking but can't narrow it down to one thing without ripping apart the engine and going in deep, which would be expensive, but also not as expensive as a dealership.
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It all started after it being cold outside it's hard to shift into second gear when i first start up the car, and then after a couple shifts like that i get a notchy shift. after a while of driving it all disappears.
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Like the title says, I sometimes experience a long shift from 1st to 2nd. When the transmission is cold, it seems to shift fine from 1st to 2nd. It isn't until it is warmed up that I get a looong shift. It winds up,,,,, then it shifts. I have no problems in other gears.
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